The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
Big wattage doesn't mean anything, you need to look at how everything works together. Most of the time if it's a Chinese product they are driving the LED's really hard to get more power for less price
 
I would very much like to see the results if you do choose to test with your multimeter.

I wouldnt expect any other answer from those type venders. Same as the advertised diodes used. You never really know.

But if they can achieve such claims, hats off to them!

Is ETL a European code?

How much did you pay for it?
How big is it?
ETL is an OSHA recognized code that is USA recognized. Cost with shipping was around 600. The size is 47"x42 ". Basically a spydr knockoff.
 

oldbeancounter

Well-Known Member
When I made up a light w/2x 288's, I daisy chained, and only the first lit up.

Someone helped me troubleshoot that, and also said that all the wires coming out of the powered wagos to the lights needed to be exactly the same length.

It's easy with 2x boards.

If that is important, Its.always.420 might want to take it into consideration.
I know when I hooked my 320 xl kits up that the wire that comes off the driver needs just a tiny bit more insulation stripped off than they send it, maybe 1/4" too long and mine would not work as although it appears the wago are connected the insulated interferes and bingo light wont work.. I also have a link to assembly if you still need it.
Photo too if needed
 

HydroFood

Active Member
Damn, now I really want to know how it tests out. For that price, this is a screaming deal if everything checks out.
I tried looking up the driver and couldn’t find anything online. I don’t like that.
ETL is an OSHA recognized code that is USA recognized. Cost with shipping was around 600. The size is 47"x42 ". Basically a spydr knockoff.
 

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
I don't sell anything on here but I do want to give you some advice as I have been dealing with China for a very long time. The first thing you ask them is do they have LM-79 and LM-80 approvals for thier lighting fixtures. If they say yes immediately ask to see a certificate. If they hesitate and say can you wait please then it means they do not have it or they are doctoring one up. None of these clowns that are selling you lighting fixtures have LM-79 or LM-80 approval. So you will know immediately what sort of company they are. I have seen heaps of the rubbish you guys look at from China and it is rubbish. The light starts off bright but turns to shit quite quickly and this is because they cheap out on design and they always do it. If you are happy to replace the light every 18 months then go for it. A few companies like Mars hydro are actually on here so they will read what I have just wrote and get a document prepared but be warned it will be a fake.
 

HydroFood

Active Member
What is LM-79 & LM80?
I don't sell anything on here but I do want to give you some advice as I have been dealing with China for a very long time. The first thing you ask them is do they have LM-79 and LM-80 approvals for thier lighting fixtures. If they say yes immediately ask to see a certificate. If they hesitate and say can you wait please then it means they do not have it or they are doctoring one up. None of these clowns that are selling you lighting fixtures have LM-79 or LM-80 approval. So you will know immediately what sort of company they are. I have seen heaps of the rubbish you guys look at from China and it is rubbish. The light starts off bright but turns to shit quite quickly and this is because they cheap out on design and they always do it. If you are happy to replace the light every 18 months then go for it. A few companies like Mars hydro are actually on here so they will read what I have just wrote and get a document prepared but be warned it will be a fake.
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Ahhh very interesting.
I would think these tests and approvals would be more discussed around here.

Does HLG have these approvals?

Being someone who uses Chinese boards, what do you think about this MoFlow?
Have you experienced any degradation?
I haven't been looking at that. Probably need a lab to measure degradation
The way I see it , run these chinese boards or any boards cobs, strips soft and they'll run for years and years. I suppose there will always be early failures but touch wood nothing seems wrong with my boards yet.
With leds improvement in efficiency and lumens per watt and price sure if I get 3 years outta the Chinese FOTOPs they'll have paid their way and then some! Then I can just purchase the latest chinese copy boards and start over lol
 

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
If you are just buying a board it's different to a fixture, the issue with the fixtures are they degregate fast and that comes back to poor build quality. They do have the capability of making really good stuff in China but the price increases alot when they do, one problem I have with them alot is they never want to use the right amount of copper on their pcbs as copper is expensive for them, if they can save $1 and the light still works they will do it, they do not worry about how well it works 2 years later so long as it works.
 

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
I am able to do degradation testing, my issue is I do not have somewhere to keep the lights running for 5000 hours in a stable environment. Hopefully next year I will though. The only company I know of that has done proper lm-79 tests is spectrum King. Spectrum King makes a pretty good quality light. Too bad the spread is terrible and the way they keep discussing lux over photons puts people off
 

semaphore

Well-Known Member
Damn, now I really want to know how it tests out. For that price, this is a screaming deal if everything checks out.
I tried looking up the driver and couldn’t find anything online. I don’t like that.
The drivers are custom built, I'm contemplating pulling them all out and replacing with mean well.
 

semaphore

Well-Known Member
Who told you that? The supplier?
Generic, rather than custom built.
There’s nothing custom about them.

I agree with OldMotherSativa.
Nalite told me that, don't argue with me, go raise it with them. Yes its not custom in the sense that its uniquely designed, but its not off the shelf like a mean well driver. So yes "generic". Semantics.
 

semaphore

Well-Known Member
90% efficiency is 90%efficiency so why change them..?

its not linked to light output..just electricity savings..
It has nothing to do with efficiency, its got to do with the fact that they buzz like crazy, and are most likely built with cheap shit components. My unit buzzes so much that I threatened Nalite with a refund request and they've sent me an entire new driver unit for the light. If it still buzzes I'm requesting a refund.
 

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
Buzzing from a driver is a good way to get busted if you are trying to be stealth about things. The noise a driver can make can knock out surrounding TV and radio signals. Some poor old lady may not be able to watch Dr. Phil because of a dodgy driver
 

semaphore

Well-Known Member
Buzzing from a driver is a good way to get busted if you are trying to be stealth about things. The noise a driver can make can knock out surrounding TV and radio signals. Some poor old lady may not be able to watch Dr. Phil because of a dodgy driver
Yeah thankfully I don’t have to worry as it’s legal in my country.
 

charsi420

Active Member
Raised the lights today and one heatsink's edge sat touching a ring screw being used to suspend a metal USB fan. Noticed two outer strips on both sides of the 560 board glowing after the timer cut power. Moved the heatsink a bit and noticed that if the screw and the heatsink don't touch, light goes off completely. Taped up the loop screw, problem solved.

Question is, what's making this happen, is there a current leak? Is the driver or board faulty or is this normal? The loop screw is screwed into wood, the piece of wood is nailed into a brick wall.

Glad I checked if everything was in order at lights out, looked like moonlight once my eyes adjusted.
 
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