Setting up C.A.P Ebb and Grow

Im trying to connect all of the buckets together. They are in 4 rows of 3. I don't know how to connect them all together leading to the control bucket. There are 90 degree elbows and plastic T nozzles.. I get the T's go into the buckets but where do the hoses and elbows come in. Because the way I'm thinking the water would just come out of the last bucket T nozzle. Advice needed.


Thanks

90 should be at the end.

What does that mean exactly. I don't get it. Does that mean it is the cap for the last open end of the T nozzle?

No insert one end of 90 in bucket and other end to hose no t involved, last bucket in every row get a 90 not a t

ohhhhhh I get it. Thank you. And how do I close off a connector not being used in the controller bucket.

I used a small piece of hose and crimped it and zip tied to not leak.

I just looped it back around to the other side. I ended up using only 4 outlets. I do have another question.

How the hell do I set the controller bucket timer to flood 3 times a day every 8 hours for 15 minutes. This timer is a puzzle.

Thanks

each tab represents 15 minutes so pick 3 times in the 8 hour stretch 1 tab in (or out) . Works just like an analog timer. It IS an analog timer LOL.

And where do I turn the dial to>?

Here is what I have it at. I don't think it is right at all. The whole outside ring turns, the white "tabs" move in and out, and there a white "clock hand" in the middle than turns by itself and when you turn the outside ring. Also what is the white arrow for? I'm sorry to seem like an idiot but I need thing done. I have it set to flood at 12 am-8am-4pm, ( or at least thats what I think it is set at?)

Thanks

bumpp.........

ArthritisSuffering said:

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Here is what I have it at. I don't think it is right at all. The whole outside ring turns, the white "tabs" move in and out, and there a white "clock hand" in the middle than turns by itself and when you turn the outside ring. Also what is the white arrow for? I'm sorry to seem like an idiot but I need thing done. I have it set to flood at 12 am-8am-4pm, ( or at least thats what I think it is set at?)

Thanks

Click to expand...

You got it right....the white arrow is where you set the present time. Mine does not have that center arm though. The tabs out , like you have them, are the time the unit fills. (each tab is 15 min) if U R running many buckets, set for 30 min fill-ups, otherwise 15 min (1 tab) is fine. You gotta setup and experiment how fast your unit in its' configuration fills. There is a big thread on these systems . Click here.

Ok thank you. How do I set how much I want the buckets to flood. I know its in the controller bucket, but I don't know what setting?

Thanks

How much each bucket floods is dependent on the height of the controller bucket. Your buckets will fill as high as the float switch in the controller. Like I say, you have to experiment a little. if you want less water to fill the buckets, you have to raise each bucket higher or lower the controller bucket. It's like New Orleans, if you want to be drier, you gotta get higher. By keeping all the buckets the same level as the controller, you will have no problems. Just assemble the thing and start dinkering around!

Ok cool. I see the flood sensors. Is there a switch i set it to? It doesn't seem right that I have to raise the buckets at different heights at different stages of growth?

No, the float switch and water level is constant. When the slave buckets are at the same level as the controller bucket, they will fill up to whatever level the controller bucket is at. Lets say the controller bucket fills to 9 inches above the bottom of the controller. ALL of your slave buckets will also fill 9" above ground level , provided the floor they are on is level with the controller bucket. If you were to raise the slave buckets up by 1", the water level will fill to 8" (1 inch lower). Some people raise the slave buckets so as not to fill up as much, personal preference, thats all. Once you set this puppy up and do a test, you will see how this all works. Physics!!

I suggest raising the buckets 1-2" above the controll bucket, it is not personal preference but a flaw with the cap system if all buckets are level with control bucket you will notice water sitting in the bottom of the buckets after drain cycle. This causes problems in later flower/veg when roots hit the bottom of the lower bucket, the sitting water stagnates quick in the site due to black buckets sitting under high intensity lights. The roots sit in stagnate water causes sick plants and root rot.

Never has happened to me. I also use Dutch (Bato) buckets which take advantage of sitting water. If you are feeding it 2 to 3 times a day, i don't see it as an issue. When I had a decent rootball in the bucket, these roots seem to suck up the water pretty quickly anyways. But, like I say, if other people have problems, personal preference. I always utilized h2o2 or zone by dutchmasters also to prevent problems of that nature. It would be safer though to raise the buckets.

well the difference is i dont use h202, zymes or anything to control root rot because i made these changes to my system. i use lucas formula (micro-bloom) and cal mag and thats it last time i spent money on nutes was almost a year ago and i bought 4 gal gh m-b-calmag and havent spent a dime on any nutes/additives since. first run roots looked OK until they hit the water second run removed control bucket and res from room res temps stay constant 68F and lowered the control bucket 2" and well the pics tell the rest, roots so packed in lower buckets had them growing down the lines. been using this system for quite some time now and love it only complaint was the water in the sites fixed that and well i add nothing to promote healthy roots, if everything is good h202 should not be needed but if you must go right ahead im just saying its cheaper to not have to dose your waters with it every 3 days

I know what you mean.....



Had to drill holes in the root mass so it would drain properly. We are in the same boat !!

This is a Lucas rootball also. Roots are really white, i think the pik with the brown hydroton messed things up. The Zone is a preventative measure. Once you get rot, you are screwed.