Root rot and temperature

Keesje

Well-Known Member
There are always discussions going on about root rot and low/high temperatures.
Some people are convinced that you have to keep the temperature of your reservoir below a certain point.
For example below 20°C / 68°F. Otherwise your roots will get all messy, brown, stinky.

I did some research about it already long time ago, and also visit commercial hydro growers regularly. Never could I find information about the claim for low temperatures.
On the contrary, most commercial growers agree that roots and plants develop best by temperatures higher then 20°C / 68°F.
But what about the root rot then?

I came across an interesting article. Not from some cannabis publication (who often don't understand science and biology and just repeat or misinterpretate what they read somewhere) but from a legitimate source.
The article is in Dutch, but Google Translate is my friend. :)

The cause of root rot is not always clear. An attack by, for example, Phytophthora can be mistaken for a Fusarium attack.

Causes of poor growth and symptoms usually start at the roots.
If the roots are in bad condition, this can lead to symptoms such as branch mortality and leaf spots in the aboveground parts.
A common problem is infestation by plant pathogenic fungi.
If these infect the roots, root rot often develops.
The roots can no longer absorb water and nutrients in severe rot. Plants will thus remain behind in growth, yellowing, withering and eventually dying off.

The symptoms that cause different fungi are not always easy to distinguish from each other.
Especially if the damage is at an advanced stage, it will be difficult to visually assess which fungus is the primary cause.
An attack by, for example, Phytophthora can be mistaken for a Fusarium attack.
A number of common fungi that can cause root rot are: Phytophthora, Fusarium solani, Rhizoctonia solani, Thielaviopsis basicola and Pythium.
The conditions under which these fungi can develop and infect the plant vary by species. Below is a short description of these fungi:

Phytophthora
This fungus is a primary pathogen. This means that it can infect healthy plants.
Phytophthora infects the roots after which it can cause rot in the stem base.
The spores germinate quickly at a low temperature shock caused by cold water.
Because of this, a Phytophthora infection often occurs during cold days / nights.
The spores of Phytophthora form swarm tracks that can easily spread through water and splashing soil particles.
The development is promoted by moist substrate and temperatures of 18 - 30 ° C / 64 - 86 °F.

Fusarium Solani
Another primary pathogen is Fusarium Solani.
The symptoms are similar to those of Phytophthora.
Both fungi first infect the roots, after which they can affect the stem foot.
The development of Fusarium Solani proceeds fastest at higher temperatures between 20 and 30 ° C / 68 - 86 °F.

Rhizoctonia solani
Rhizoctonia can infect both the roots and the stem foot.
Often the damage starts on the border between soil and air.
Here the stem is constricted so that plants fall over.
Seedlings in particular are very sensitive to this fungus. In contrast with Fusarium, Rhizoctonia develops best at a lower temperature (15 - 18 ° C / 59 - 64 °F).

Thielaviopsis basicola
This fungus is also called Chalara Elegans. Brown constricted spots can be seen on the roots. In the event of severe damage, a constriction can occur on the boundary between soil and air.
In this case, the infestation can be confused with a Rhizoctonia infection.
The leaf axles can also be browned, which can be confused with a Phytophthora attack.
The fungus grows well at temperatures of 25 - 28 ° C / 77 - 82 °F but can infect the plants more easily at temperatures of 15 - 20 ° C / 59 - 68 °F.
Problems usually arise during cool days.

Pythium
Pythium is a secondary fungus that can only affect weakened or very young plants.
At the roots affected by this fungus, the bark is detached from the vascular bundles.
Pythium develops optimally in wet conditions and at a temperature of 20 ° C / 68 °F.
Fluctuations in the EC also promote the development of Pythium.



All the above paragraphs show that there is not just 1 cause for root rot.
Even commercial growers sometimes don't know what causes root rot in their systems.
What they can do is have the fungus or rot analyzed. DNA analysis.
So when they know what disease they actually have, they can change the growing circumstances to prevent that specific disease; Lowering the temperature or perhaps making it higher, a more stable EC, making sure their feeding water is already on a higher temperature, etc.

Especially Pythium can be caused by what we call 'shock'. When changing the reservoir, the roots get for example much colder water as they were in before, or water with a different EC.

So, all this shows that there is not 1 cause and also not 1 solution for root rot.
All who say there is, are wrong and ignore science.
 

Purpsmagurps

Well-Known Member
its that temperature for maximum dissolved oxygen compared to pythium grow rates more than just keeping pythium out so I've understood. but as long as you are running bacillius in your res then you dont have to worry about anything. I ripped out 3 foot trails of roots that connected through my tubes to other buckets, ripped a bunch, left it in the bucket to "rot" but not really, just got eaten by the bacillius and
roots.JPG I had EXPLOSIVE ROOT GROWTH at 68.
 

shawnery

Well-Known Member
Root rot as you say and have read is caused by many different pathogens and the such and is more of a generic term of endearment.

Also as you point out there can be many environmental factors can play a role in a breakout as well.

The scary thing is the same thing doesn't work for all badies involved. Some take higher and longer doses of sanitizer and some I have read are becoming immune.
 

Herb & Suds

Well-Known Member
its that temperature for maximum dissolved oxygen compared to pythium grow rates more than just keeping pythium out so I've understood. but as long as you are running bacillius in your res then you dont have to worry about anything. I ripped out 3 foot trails of roots that connected through my tubes to other buckets, ripped a bunch, left it in the bucket to "rot" but not really, just got eaten by the bacillius and
View attachment 4239698 I had EXPLOSIVE ROOT GROWTH at 68.
All that and no stem shot...what a tease
 

Keesje

Well-Known Member
its that temperature for maximum dissolved oxygen compared to pythium grow rates more than just keeping pythium out so I've understood. but as long as you are running bacillius in your res then you dont have to worry about anything. I ripped out 3 foot trails of roots that connected through my tubes to other buckets, ripped a bunch, left it in the bucket to "rot" but not really, just got eaten by the bacillius and
I had EXPLOSIVE ROOT GROWTH at 68.
I did not understand your first line.

But if you think that you can not have some kind of root rot when you run Hydroguard or a product similar to it... I disagree with you.
If that would be the case, then all commercial growers would never have root rot. And trust me, they do have it occasionally.
There is also no need to run your reservoir at 20 ° C / 68 °F.
It might work out great in your set up, especially in the combination with Hydroguard, but is not a guarantee.

I posted this pic in another topic.

These roots look great, the product is great.
The water temperature is running between 18 - 30 ° C / 64 - 86 °F. It fluctuates with the seasons.
When it hits 18 ° C / 64 °F, they will turn the heat up in the greenhouse.
The basin is 1 foot deep and the water is only circulating for 5 or 10 minutes every hour.
No bennies, bacillus, Hydroguard or anything like it.

Just water, nutes and some DO.

What I want to say...
If something works out great for you, it does not mean that it can only work in the way you do it.
And Purpsmagrurps, your roots look beautiful.
 

shawnery

Well-Known Member
the goal is not to use sanitizer @shawnery you'll get there.
Now that Ive realized that my tap water was the sludge from hell I don't think there will be anymore issues. I just wasted two crops figuring that out unfortunately. I just hate the wastefulness of RO water so am going to setup a tank outside for waste water use.

I'm still a fan of running sterile even if you don't need to and when used in the "right" dosages chorine is actually a nutrient that has beneficial uses in hydro growing. Not to mention all the clogging issues I've been warned about have been nonexistent.


I do agree though that you shouldn't need it in a perfectly working system.
 

Purpsmagurps

Well-Known Member
if you set it out for a couple days you don't need RO. I'm sure I had minuscule Chlorine content in my system from only setting it out for a day but I only hydroguard redosed my system once a week and never got slime. the only time I got a little slime film on the side of my res was when I dumped water in straightr from the tap and it killed my bennys and gave me a little ph spike, but after 24 hours ion the system you just redose and it tuns to normal.
 
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