Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Anyone here have a strong argument either for or against a darkness period of more than 12 hours before harvest? I've never noticed a difference, but then again I've never had a side by side comparison either
I think consistency is key, and 100% total darkness for that 12 hours is far more important than extra darkness before harvest. Better for not hermy'ing.

But maybe you have other motives.. frost?
i would get colder at night the last few nights and use cooler water for colour enhancing.. 14*C Ro h2o on last day for example.

Me, I would sooner experiment with far red light to induce flowering faster or recover from emergency wake up (helps resume flowering faster instead of waiting the two hours for the hormones to switch back)

But that said I'm open to any good info on the subject. Just haven't been convinced yet..
 

AllDayToker

Well-Known Member
Those could just be root bound ADT. I've had some similar looking deficiencies from plants that get root bound late in flower
So you don't think it's any neem oil will help with?

Well it seems to be moving pretty fast I'm afraid it'll start getting to the bud you know.
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
So you don't think it's any neem oil will help with?

Well it seems to be moving pretty fast I'm afraid it'll start getting to the bud you know.
What's the anticipated flowering time? If it's an 8-10 week strain then I think it is what it is. If anything I'd start with a compost tea. Your best bet to sort out anything soil related is to send the microbes in strong. I'd brew up a tea, and then follow that up with a few water-only waterings, then maybe another compost tea. You're so close to the finish line I'd hate to see you over-reach here and mess up what will likely be perfectly fine bud. The plant may limp to the finish line but the buds will likely be unscathed.
 

AllDayToker

Well-Known Member
What's the anticipated flowering time? If it's an 8-10 week strain then I think it is what it is. If anything I'd start with a compost tea. Your best bet to sort out anything soil related is to send the microbes in strong. I'd brew up a tea, and then follow that up with a few water-only waterings, then maybe another compost tea. You're so close to the finish line I'd hate to see you over-reach here and mess up what will likely be perfectly fine bud. The plant may limp to the finish line but the buds will likely be unscathed.
It'll finish around 9 weeks flower, at least that's when it was in the past. Flipped her on December 2nd.

I do got a compost tea I was about to feed tonight.

Alright well at least now I got neem oil on hand if I need it. I'll just load her up with microbes and hope for the best.

You always got that's answers man, much appreciated.
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Here are some more pictures of the problem I'm facing. So far the only good answer I got was a fungal infection so got some neem oil.



Most problems affect new growth, this here looks like new growth is healthiest, eliminating many..

I was gonna say manganese at first cause of middle necrosis but leaf veins stay green.. The veins do yellow though with a K deficiency. Yellow veins, Older leaves affected first, dark leaves, petioles turning purple .. Yep looks like you just got a K problem. Some strains use more. If its your tallest plant that are the worst then for sure it's potassium.

If so, be happy. Although making your plant ugly, it will not effect growth or yield like other deficiencies do..

2 things, wait.. 3:
-cold weather slows K
-salts (Na) displace K
-To Keep calm, burn cron..

Best of luck,
DT
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
@AllDayToker Agreed, don't over react, dawg, especially if just a K issue.
Plant won't recover look wise anyway, even if you use a fast acting solution like wood ashes or K-Si-something..

If you have any chunks of wood or coco shell in your compost, check it for pests.. Breeding ground / early indicator for mites or thrips right there. If good, then your tea should be a safe, IMMACULATE BOOST
What's the anticipated flowering time? If it's an 8-10 week strain then I think it is what it is. If anything I'd start with a compost tea. Your best bet to sort out anything soil related is to send the microbes in strong. I'd brew up a tea, and then follow that up with a few water-only waterings, then maybe another compost tea. You're so close to the finish line I'd hate to see you over-reach here and mess up what will likely be perfectly fine bud. The plant may limp to the finish line but the buds will likely be unscathed.
 

AllDayToker

Well-Known Member
Most problems affect new growth, this here looks like new growth is healthiest, eliminating many..

I was gonna say manganese at first cause of middle necrosis but leaf veins stay green.. The veins do yellow though with a K deficiency. Yellow veins, Older leaves affected first, dark leaves, petioles turning purple .. Yep looks like you just got a K problem. Some strains use more. If its your tallest plant that are the worst then for sure it's potassium.

If so, be happy. Although making your plant ugly, it will not effect growth or yield like other deficiencies do..

2 things, wait.. 3:
-cold weather slows K
-salts (Na) displace K
-To Keep calm, burn cron..

Best of luck,
DT
Thanks for all the help brotha.

Going to load up a,bowl and feed some tea to the lady.

My basic microbe tea is just molasses and ewc.
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
If the smell is gone then yes you are probably done. LA Con was dank and cheesy and then boom the smell dialed down big time. I harvested and the scissors barely got sticky. It was a waxy resin. Still not bad:



I waited longer because they were seeded and I wanted all of the seeds to mature.




Cheers,
Mo
So this is your waxy, seeded, SHITTier bud!? Looks lovely!! Canada could use some Mo' energy!! Should Become an Asian or H.A.!!! Lol
 

genuity

Well-Known Member
So what's the consensus on containers? How many of you guys are using fabric pots, and how many are using plastic ones? I've been rocking the plastic containers for years, but I'm starting to wonder what benefits would come from the fabric containers?? Obviously more air to the root zone would be a plus, but with that more frequent watering would be a must. I shudder at the thought of *more* time being devoted to this.... but if the ladies will benefit then I should probably suck it up and take the plunge.

For those of you using fabric pots, which brand would you recommend? Is there much difference between brands?
As long as you use the same mix,as you do with the reg pots...you may have to water every two days,instead of three...

I use gro pro bags,better than most of the ones I have used.
The more soil/worm casting,the less the water will run out the sides of the pots.
So you may need to up the size of your trays.
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
As long as you use the same mix,as you do with the reg pots...you may have to water every two days,instead of three...

I use gro pro bags,better than most of the ones I have used.
The more soil/worm casting,the less the water will run out the sides of the pots.
So you may need to up the size of your trays.
TY gen. That's good stuff to know. Watering every second day I can live with
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
@AllDayToker - Yay - That is good news!

@DonTesla - What is H.A.?
They are the commercial dispensers for much of usa/Canada's cannabis mon, I believe they are angels of some sort haha.

Just saying that if there were some organic guys at the top of the underworld or wherever the place of impact is, you know..
It'd be more than good.

Call me John Lennon, but..Too much recreational Reggie doing more harm than good on every city's streets...could you imagine a world full of co-ops (not cops) where Stow, The Dons, you, positivity, all these good cats could pool together and help communities produce all organic herbs and fruits and veggies for their people.. An educational, coconut and cannabis based revolution free of 'cides .. and fluoride for that matter.. A natural awakening.

A big rise up. The only one world organization the world ever needs is an organic, food based one that of course includes medicinal herbs

Shit, everyone knows that!
(No they don't)

Edit:
As for mites, good point, double headed deficiencies requiring accurate diagnosis.
Aim sharp
 
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RedCarpetMatches

Well-Known Member
Home sweet home. Been too long. Miss the dirty talk. Starting up a quick cook with old stuff I had laying around. Using pro mix, pumice, and some kind of undecided humus. I have alfalfa, kelp, neem cake, dolo, potash, crab shell, and some Grokashi that I have yet to try. Anyone think I'm good enough on the macros...I can always top dress later.

PS Stow,
O-H

No VC ready yet. Have you grow bros ever heard or tried this http://ecoscraps.com
 
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OGEvilgenius

Well-Known Member
Man, I wouldn't mess with spraying anything on the buds that far in to flower. That's asking for mold IMO
Especially not neem oil.

I find the worries of mold on buds are overblown if you have a decent setup but it can definitely happen so no need to risk it.

I have some thoughts on the fabric - get really big ones. The sizes I've seen quoted are actually not quite as big as they say. Like a 1 gallon container seemed to hold more than a 1 gallon air pot. I guess it might vary on manufacturer. But you'll get more root mass too using them properly. As a result I think deficiencies are more likely unless you compensate with pot size.

I'm finding bigger is better in general with the RLOS method.
 

OGEvilgenius

Well-Known Member
As long as you use the same mix,as you do with the reg pots...you may have to water every two days,instead of three...

I use gro pro bags,better than most of the ones I have used.
The more soil/worm casting,the less the water will run out the sides of the pots.
So you may need to up the size of your trays.
Oh yea that too... can be messy. I think best suited to a blumat or drip watering system of some kind if you're used to hand watering like I am. I used them in the past but lately I'm just tranplanting into my oversized plastic containers from cups.
 
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