Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Got gypsum?
Negative pressure?

75* isn't hot enough to stop flowering focus (~78*)
It is hot enough to affect terpene profiles, though,
especially if the root zone isn't able to regulate the temp / cool her.

What about the inline fan and carbon filter, its on too strong?
We use dimmer switch, and keep it lowlow until room warmed up.
High once warm.
Then on to very low setting each 'night'.

And are you using a 60x scope or so, to scope the trichs?
May be cloudy (starting to degrade) or completely popping

Good luck,
thats a nice strain, mon
I'll gladly take a gram or two for volun-consulting!
haha
The mix these ladies are in do not have gypsum in it. I've gotten my tent down to about 70 - 72 now while lights are on.
Negative pressure? As in if it's a sealed room with no/little intake? If so, no. I used to leave my tent completely closed but now I've set it up to vent at the bottom at an equal rate as my 200cfm fan pulls air through my cf. When lights are off I have a little 100cfm inline fan, though in actuality its probably more like 50cfm, that pulls through my filter.
I use a 30x jewlers loupe, which I want to get a USB 200x scope or whichever magnification level the model was that I was looking at. I'm able to see mostly cloudy except for some of the trichomes in the folds and recesses of the caylces, leaves, etc. I'll be pulling them Saturday morning. My girl has the day off so I'm going to train her to trim properly. Gotta love a girl that wants to help with the meticulous stuff (=

This strain has been a favorite of mine for about a year and a half now since an acquaintance showed me his hydro grown stuff.
You wouldn't happen to live a bit South of the famous windy city, would you?
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Brix levels are simply a measurement of dissolved solids in the sap/fluid of the plant. The more dissolved solids, the higher the brix reading. From what I've read you want to go pretty heavy on minerals to achieve these elevated numbers. Rock fines, kelp meal, azomite, etc. These minerals can be applied to the soil (and take quite some time to be processed and taken up by the plant) or can be applied via foliar. IMO you hear people talking about how the soil "gets better" as it ages.... this is simply a function of the mineral content not being bio-available in the first run of a no-till, and becoming more and more available in subsequent runs.
Stow know something bout er'thang, ay? Haha

Gotta have Mineral density baby.. Calcium being the one they talk about most it commonly refers to the copper, manganese, and iron, too.

Brix also refers to the amount of covalent bonding and amount of carbs in juices.

Greensand, Epsom salts, molasses, compost, rock dusts, all very good stuff, mon, but Stow Know, foliar the fastest, soil can take some time, some elements not very mobile..

A quote from OneGramPerWat (diff. forum):

"It's not about the NPK, its about the Ca and P atoms coming together to form a molecule the microbes love to eat...the plant creates carbs which it exudes out of the roots feeding micro as well."
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Would be really awesome, ive seen how people make it but probably never even smoked the real thing, okay i see what you mean bro, so no possible way of using a clean baggie thats tightly sealed and making my own ? Dont think they sell boveda packs on this side of the world, ill have to do more intense googling & calling though. I wouldnt want to sacrifice taste though, how long after ive harvested and dried would you recommend though bro ? Respect :leaf::peace::leaf:
I think the specific membrane like paper material they use is necessary for the proper moisture exchange. I'm not sure how Amazon works on a global scale, but I do know they sell them on there. Maybe I could give you a link?
In my experience, which I should note that I don't have high wattage hids / leds so my buds aren't dense by commercial standards, after the normal 7-14 days of drying and the initial cure of probably a week or so, you'd be safe. I do use a hygrometer in my jars so I go by rh% more than time. I usually aim for sub 68 percent before I drop the boveda packs in.
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Oh so you don't water with it?
Not at all, my online friend.
@DonPetro would kill me. Hahaha. Plus neem oil is VERY STRONG smelling.. Even when diluted.

'They' do say to mist spray topsoil when having a thrips or gnats outbreak after letting it dry out at least a full inch on top... Their larvae falls to the soil once mature enough (as well as scared adults) but if hit with neem oil, all future generations be rendered sterile..
Only on bad pests though. Not ladybugs, microbes, etc. that's why I use so little soap. 2 drop max.

Just shake bottle before each plant so mix emulsifies, dawg.

You gonna be golden..

DT
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
The mix these ladies are in do not have gypsum in it. I've gotten my tent down to about 70 - 72 now while lights are on.
Negative pressure? As in if it's a sealed room with no/little intake? If so, no. I used to leave my tent completely closed but now I've set it up to vent at the bottom at an equal rate as my 200cfm fan pulls air through my cf. When lights are off I have a little 100cfm inline fan, though in actuality its probably more like 50cfm, that pulls through my filter.
I use a 30x jewlers loupe, which I want to get a USB 200x scope or whichever magnification level the model was that I was looking at. I'm able to see mostly cloudy except for some of the trichomes in the folds and recesses of the caylces, leaves, etc. I'll be pulling them Saturday morning. My girl has the day off so I'm going to train her to trim properly. Gotta love a girl that wants to help with the meticulous stuff (=

This strain has been a favorite of mine for about a year and a half now since an acquaintance showed me his hydro grown stuff.
You wouldn't happen to live a bit South of the famous windy city, would you?
Amen about the helping woman...good for you!

So you got pretty much everything covered..
Trimming,
temps,
air flow,
Since you don't have gypsum maybe some lightly Brix infused molasses water would be pimp choice. I see reactions the next day, more frost etc. worm castings now will make er burn hot but since there's no way or need to flush in organics anyway, I'd Brix that soil up a bit.

I'd pop a few crystals down low and see if they reak, the more smell the less molasses I'd use
(Tsp per plant in water)

Interesting, in all of India, the culture is to worship the water they drink for at least 8 still hours, either in brass or copper goblets.

Scientifically proven now...
Water has memory and under a microscope you can see what kind of thought it is holding.. Chaotic stress vs peaceful love..
Water molecules, including their texture, actually change, depending on the energy, intent, and obstacle course it went through, all play big roles, (or more specifically, how recently it went through an obstacle course.)

In their farming studies, they increased yields 22% with 'happy water' or decreased the amount needed to water by ~40%.

The water studies are broken down by the infamous Sadhguru in his Inner Engineering series. Very interesting
 

AllDayToker

Well-Known Member
Not at all, my online friend.
@DonPetro would kill me. Hahaha. Plus neem oil is VERY STRONG smelling.. Even when diluted.

'They' do say to mist spray topsoil when having a thrips or gnats outbreak after letting it dry out at least a full inch on top... Their larvae falls to the soil once mature enough (as well as scared adults) but if hit with neem oil, all future generations be rendered sterile..
Only on bad pests though. Not ladybugs, microbes, etc. that's why I use so little soap. 2 drop max.

Just shake bottle before each plant so mix emulsifies, dawg.

You gonna be golden..

DT
Alright thanks. One more thing.

I'm about 6 to 7 weeks into flower, will this be OK for the foliar spray will the buds be alright? I'll just be spray one plant she's a bigger one in a 10g pot.
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Amen about the helping woman...good for you!

So you got pretty much everything covered..
Trimming,
temps,
air flow,
Since you don't have gypsum maybe some lightly Brix infused molasses water would be pimp choice. I see reactions the next day, more frost etc. worm castings now will make er burn hot but since there's no way or need to flush in organics anyway, I'd Brix that soil up a bit.

I'd pop a few crystals down low and see if they reak, the more smell the less molasses I'd use
(Tsp per plant in water)

Interesting, in all of India, the culture is to worship the water they drink for at least 8 still hours, either in brass or copper goblets.

Scientifically proven now...
Water has memory and under a microscope you can see what kind of thought it is holding.. Chaotic stress vs peaceful love..
Water molecules, including their texture, actually change, depending on the energy, intent, and obstacle course it went through, all play big roles, (or more specifically, how recently it went through an obstacle course.)

In their farming studies, they increased yields 22% with 'happy water' or decreased the amount needed to water by ~40%.

The water studies are broken down by the infamous Sadhguru in his Inner Engineering series. Very interesting
I'll give them a light molasses watering this afternoon (= it's so nice having such knowledgeable people in one area, even if it's just virtual!
I was actually aware that water holds a memory, I wasn't aware of the extent though! That's an eye opener for sure. Maybe it's a good thing I have a happy plant filled house and not just for aesthetical reasons
I typically bubble all of my water 12 hours minimum before using it. Even if it's ro or carbon filtered. I started using my bubble hash water recently to water them and either I'm seeing a massive placebo affect or plants / soil LOVE that stuff. I've got one lady, not any of my Scotts ogs, but a Panama Red gal that I've been giving a mix of bubble water and small amounts of lacto bacillus and molasses, that I bubble together for an hour then feed. The soil seems to love it as even my clovers grow like wild when I use it. Makes me sad I have no more bubble water lol
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Haha, amen again!
Pays to pool..big time.

As for water, its amazing, mon, you got it.
can even use rusty water for Fe defiency..
or soak clean quarters and dimes and use it to treat a Cu deficiency!
The chemistry!
Just don't forget to add love to the females
And feminine or lunar energy to the non sexed..
Perhaps that is why Gage Green loves their full moons,
And why the Dons have had higher rate of females from male-female seed lately than we have had successful clones (~88% females vs ~50% survival rate)

Note to self, never add neem oil water to clones.. Guess that's one reason they say throw it out what you don't use. Haha.

Good thing I didn't drink from it like I do every other watering device in the garden... Haha.
 

Mohican

Well-Known Member
If the smell is gone then yes you are probably done. LA Con was dank and cheesy and then boom the smell dialed down big time. I harvested and the scissors barely got sticky. It was a waxy resin. Still not bad:



I waited longer because they were seeded and I wanted all of the seeds to mature.




Cheers,
Mo
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
So what's the consensus on containers? How many of you guys are using fabric pots, and how many are using plastic ones? I've been rocking the plastic containers for years, but I'm starting to wonder what benefits would come from the fabric containers?? Obviously more air to the root zone would be a plus, but with that more frequent watering would be a must. I shudder at the thought of *more* time being devoted to this.... but if the ladies will benefit then I should probably suck it up and take the plunge.

For those of you using fabric pots, which brand would you recommend? Is there much difference between brands?
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Alright thanks. One more thing.

I'm about 6 to 7 weeks into flower, will this be OK for the foliar spray will the buds be alright? I'll just be spray one plant she's a bigger one in a 10g pot.
Very good question. Avoid the buds if poss.
Depends on whether its 6 to 8 wk bud or say 10wk plus I'd say..

Neem is better used early as a preventative but it will knock out thrips and certain pests quick fast and leave em sterile without harming other life. And it's effects last about a week and builds up the more its used.
So I would spray only if having a confirmed pest break out and didn't have other options ..example: herbs like cinnamon, clove, thyme and didn't have diatomaceous earth rocks ..

If you do spray neem (tree) oil, let it dry but then start misting and cleaning it off for about 5 days.
You don't want it on your final bud!

That said at this time i'd avoid it if you can but remember it also helps eczema so it can't be thaaat bad.

If you have spider mites and Co2, they can't handle over 5000ppm Co2 for 30 mins. Pretty cool. Also fish oil, rosemary oil (10%) and sesame oil work, but who wants to smoke fish Kush!? Not me!

Picking the flavour of control more wisely now,
DT
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Haha, amen again!
Pays to pool..big time.

As for water, its amazing, mon, you got it.
can even use rusty water for Fe defiency..
or soak clean quarters and dimes and use it to treat a Cu deficiency!
The chemistry!
Just don't forget to add love to the females
And feminine or lunar energy to the non sexed..
Perhaps that is why Gage Green loves their full moons,
And why the Dons have had higher rate of females from male-female seed lately than we have had successful clones (~88% females vs ~50% survival rate)

Note to self, never add neem oil water to clones.. Guess that's one reason they say throw it out what you don't use. Haha.

Good thing I didn't drink from it like I do every other watering device in the garden... Haha.
You keep blowing my mind. Coins and rusty water? I can definitely see how that would work but I'd never have imagined it on my own I would suspect. That's an ingenious idea.
I've always taken the claims that come with the lunar cycle with a tiny grain of salt, though I think the salt is mostly dissolved now, so to speak. After enough reading it's more and more common to find science agreeing with such claims. I need to read more on the subject to be able to apply any knowledge though.
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
So what's the consensus on containers? How many of you guys are using fabric pots, and how many are using plastic ones? I've been rocking the plastic containers for years, but I'm starting to wonder what benefits would come from the fabric containers?? Obviously more air to the root zone would be a plus, but with that more frequent watering would be a must. I shudder at the thought of *more* time being devoted to this.... but if the ladies will benefit then I should probably suck it up and take the plunge.

For those of you using fabric pots, which brand would you recommend? Is there much difference between brands?
I'll never go back to anything that isn't a fabric pot. The growth difference in my experience is huge. I see a slightly faster growing plant with denser, fuller bud structures in fabric as opposed to a "closed" container or even say one with a slew of holes drilled in. They do dry out faster, much actually, but with the right size and cover crop I think it's negligible in comparison. I think brand only matters in regards to price. Maybe stich quality
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Anyone here have a strong argument either for or against a darkness period of more than 12 hours before harvest? I've never noticed a difference, but then again I've never had a side by side comparison either
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
So what's the consensus on containers? How many of you guys are using fabric pots, and how many are using plastic ones? I've been rocking the plastic containers for years, but I'm starting to wonder what benefits would come from the fabric containers?? Obviously more air to the root zone would be a plus, but with that more frequent watering would be a must. I shudder at the thought of *more* time being devoted to this.... but if the ladies will benefit then I should probably suck it up and take the plunge.

For those of you using fabric pots, which brand would you recommend? Is there much difference between brands?
Really well-aerated plastics are strong but hard to read like a smart pot.. I love the root hair development and lack of bottom-spun roots on the fibres, too, bro..
but I find they need either more tea (and we like to try do water only) or a misting at least once if not twice a day is best, once when lights on, and again, if not a hassle, 8 hours later, otherwise the topsoil or sides will start to crunch up fairly quick. All the fabric is, is 100% polyester.. It's the thickness that matters. All of em are opaque but it would help retain more water of thicker..

That said, little pot sized trays on castors with a few inches of siding would allow one to put a moisture wicking substance in the bottom, say perlite, since no one likes it much but has it, and get the best of both worlds.. Max roots, Easy to move, with less watering..

I think the fabrics are good enough to try flower in, better to solve the watering issue. Vs going plastic.

I'm thinking of building some wooden pots out of say 1x6 with 2x2 in corners ..on wheels that have strips of smart fabric in between the wooden spaces... Then have a smart pot inside it, fenced in. That way it would get to be in fabric but would have a double layer preventing over evaporation.

Could have everything on wheels with no plastic in the room.
Hmm..
 

AllDayToker

Well-Known Member
Here are some more pictures of the problem I'm facing. So far the only good answer I got was a fungal infection so got some neem oil.



 
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