QB96 Elite V2 w/ SSTX heatsink question

Or_Gro said:

Check out the stretch on this babe, lol:

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Original Glue (GG4) 21 days from flip, under 96s @ ~1000ppfd...

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Jetfixer100 said:

Would 4 of the QB96’s in a 3x3 be too much?

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Jetfixer100 said:

Would 4 of the QB96’s in a 3x3 be too much?

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Or_Gro said:

No, you will be able to run them cooler and get optimal intensity: 1000ppfd at 18” between 160-200w per 96...check the mapping....

Center 2 of them, and run for prop and veg...

Get yourself dimmable drivers to go with them....

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pulpoinspace said:

that's what i've been doing the past two runs. i have mine on a 600b for when i finally get a new tent but a 480b is perfect imo. run em at 200w in veg and 420w (for good luck) during flower.

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Randomblame said:

Hmm! Coolwhite especially in CRI70 has already a lot of green. I would rather fill the valley around 485nm where white LED typically lack the most. Those wideband reds are really interesting cause of the high amount of light above 700nm. No need to add far-reds over the day and mixed with coolwhite/CRI80 it should end up with CRI90 too.
In the end it depends on their efficiency and true PPF's per watt. Datasheet only mentioned lumens like for normal red diodes and its probably needed to test and compare them. But I don't believe they are good enough..
Red/deep-red diodes usually produce twice as much photons per watt like a blue diode. So when you use blue base diodes to create red light that means you get only half that much photons compared to a red diode cuz the number of photons will stay almost the same(you will lose a few because of the conversion). The blue diode would need to be twice as much efficient to produce the same amount of photons. The spectrum looks really promissing but without more data I would not use them.
But Cree has a new XP-E2 deep-red diode in the pipeline reaching Osram Square efficiency and the price for Square diodes also finally comes down to "normal".
Osram fucks me up because you can not order top bins directly. You can only order groups like VMVO-1 and you'll get only one bin in this group but there are 3 flux bins between VM and VO and its a gamble which bin you'll get.
That's much better with Cree and I hope they will become available soon.

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Randomblame said:

Yepp! Red and blue light is only used on the upper canopy. The light which gets reflected by the leaves is green light and is used in the lower plant areas. So even if you only use red and blue wavelength the light that travels deeper into the canopy is converted into green by reflection. You can check this with a camera, from above all looks pinkish red. If you take a shot from the lower areas the pinkish tint dissapears and the leaves look "normal" green.

IMO white has already enough green and there is no need to add more!
But green could be useful for inter canopy or side lighting on very big plants.

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welight said:

really depends on the led bins. we stock mostly Cree leds on the BBL, white-est of white, you can select bins higher on the BBl for Green of lower for red/pink, most generic lighting designers dont like them as they only want the white
Cheers
Mark

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grisbi said:

can you help me to understand thoses terms: "BBL" and "BBI" , try to do my best in english, thank guyz!

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welight said:

If you look at the centre of the graph you will see a dotted line that is the BBL(black body locus) bins there are considered the whitest of white, bins higher become greener, bins lower become pinker/redder
cheers

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grisbi said:

what about your new mono red nichia NCSRE17A @welight ?? comparate to the new cree xqe2 or osram square red ???

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welight said:

difficult assessment. the Nichia is a 1.7mm 0.3 watt vs Cree high Power led and the phosphor conversion make for two different spectral performances,

true red non phosphors will always have a significant peak. The Blue line is nichia, the orange is the new XPEBFR, no doubt the Cree will punch photons but it takes more power and cost

Cheers
Mark

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Stephenj37826 said:

They can handle 200 watts passively due to the more even spread of the heat across the entire heatsink. At 175 watts they run around 52C. No air movement. Even with a 10mm thick base the heat from a relatively small source such as a cob doesn't spread across the sink evenly. The max you can run the board actively is actually 6400 ma we are just being conservative. The lumileds are rated at 800ma. The monos are rated to 1500ma. 8 strings total.

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yummy fur said:

Regarding my earlier post on the exit terminal of the QB96 I accidentally found the photo that caused me to wonder about the connector.

here's a photo from this thread https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/qb96elite-v2-no-bs-information-only.1521830/#post-24377190 you can see two pairs of wires going into the connector, one pair as per normal but it appears the other light is connected as well or is it? what's going on here, why are these wires coming out of the front of the connector

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yummy fur said:

Regarding my earlier post on the exit terminal of the QB96 I accidentally found the photo that caused me to wonder about the connector.

here's a photo from this thread https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/qb96elite-v2-no-bs-information-only.1521830/#post-24377190 you can see two pairs of wires going into the connector, one pair as per normal but it appears the other light is connected as well or is it? what's going on here, why are these wires coming out of the front of the connector

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User64 said:

Does anyone know what main LEDs are used in these ? I've sent off a second email asking them again but really want to know for sure before dropping the coin on two of these.
They look like LM301Z or LM302Z but no way to tell with no information on the product page.

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