PPm's vs ml per Gallon?

Versant

Versant

Member
Getting lots of conflicting info on this subject or the conversation heads toward math and science i don't understand.
Issue: Growers say how many Ppm's of nuut's they add, say( 900-1400 ) so if I add my nuut's to a gallon of water by what the bottle says ( 14ml per gallon ) and I check the ppm's which are lower than the 900-1400 ppm range do i add more nuuts to reach those numbers? That would mean Doubling the amount the bottle recommends. And is the ppm amount based on all nuuts put in a container or each individual nuut? I use 4 different types...I usually put them all in one gallon container, shake and pour. Should i be taking ppm reading on each one ?

Hope this makes sense :)
 
My first question is if your nutes are canna spacific ? Most are not and more geared for tulip and Orchid growing etc. we as growers adopt these lines for our use.

Directions, feed charts and what you read online are just a starting point. You may have to adjust.
 
Dont try to compare to others, it will always let you down. Thing is, not everyone uses RO water (0ppm)

And then PPM meters (and EC as well, one is just a calculation of the other) also run off 2 different scales... some are on a base 500, some are a base 700.... its fucking nuts.

If you are changing out the entire water supply (as I do in 5g DWC buckets) its easier to measure by volume. (Don't use hydrofarm marked measuring shotglasses.. they are shit, and the markings wipe off and move around when you get them wet.. even with water)

Take what the manufacturer says to use, and cut it in half.. even less for small plants. The amount for instance Advanced will have you using could grow a fucking redwood.

Find your own ppm level, for your plants, in your system, with your meter. It will take a few weeks to dial it in, but will be accurate. If after a week ur plants are looking a little light, use more. Leaves hooking, use less.

Get a quality meter too. Otherwise make sure to calibrate often, and properly. Bluelab is expensive shit, but its expensive enough that you take good care of it, and as such, its the only one ya gotta buy.

Keep ur Ph in range, and more important, keep the water cool, and well oxygenated. Nutes are nutes, and rank lower than most think.
 
You should be using EC instead of PPM's, it is a more universal measurement. If you go by PPM's you have to be know which scale your meter uses (ppm500 or ppm700) as well as the scale of the person giving you advice.

I try to stay below 1.4EC (700 or 980ppm depending on the scale you use) after everything is mixed up. This is feeding with veg+bloom thru blumats.

Always better to underfeed and have to increase dosage vs dealing with overfeeding and burnt plants.
 
ChaosHunter said:
My first question is if your nutes are canna spacific ? Most are not and more geared for tulip and Orchid growing etc. we as growers adopt these lines for our use.

Directions, feed charts and what you read online are just a starting point. You may have to adjust.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info
 
Versant said:
I hear ya, does that apply to soil and hydro grows?
Click to expand...
Both, in any culture that you add mineral nutrients, ppm/ec is the sure way to go. As someone already told you, ppm use x700 or x500 chart and its kind hard to definitewhich one to use... to be honest, i never received an clear answer about it. Ec is more exact but i work with ppm for soooo long that im sticked to it. I always use the x700 chart and im always good.

Good luck bro
 
ChaosHunter said:
My first question is if your nutes are canna spacific ? Most are not and more geared for tulip and Orchid growing etc. we as growers adopt these lines for our use.

Directions, feed charts and what you read online are just a starting point. You may have to adjust.
Click to expand...

This plant of ours doesn't eat anything that tulips and orchids don't. There's no such thing as canna nutes, its marketing koolaid and you're drinking it, buddy. Now nute profiles specific for growth cycle I can get along with (although nonetheless P is well overused in bloom, IMO).

OP - follow your EC/ppm over volumes or measures on the bottle any day; they are only suggestions and not necessarily good ones, whereas EC will give you an accurate reading of concentration of the solution. Thats all that counts provided your nutrient line is complete.
 
ruwtz said:
This plant of ours doesn't eat anything that tulips and orchids don't. There's no such thing as canna nutes, its marketing koolaid and you're drinking it, buddy. Now nute profiles specific for growth cycle I can get along with (although nonetheless P is well overused in bloom, IMO).

OP - follow your EC/ppm over volumes or measures on the bottle any day; they are only suggestions and not necessarily good ones, whereas EC will give you an accurate reading of concentration of the solution. Thats all that counts provided your nutrient line is complete.
Click to expand...
Sound advise sir..I'm working with Mills A-B, Cal mag, roots organics Buddha bloom and Big bud growth enhancer. Using EB stones Edna's Best organic medium. Watered only through veg. So, I will use PPM's instead of label recommendation. My question is, do i add all nutes in same bottle then take reading or reading of each nuut? . I'm doing per gallon. if that's the case how do I not over water?
 
Versant said:
Sound advise sir..I'm working with Mills A-B, Cal mag, roots organics Buddha bloom and Big bud growth enhancer. Using EB stones Edna's Best organic medium. Watered only through veg. So, I will use PPM's instead of label recommendation. My question is, do i add all nutes in same bottle then take reading or reading of each nuut? . I'm doing per gallon. if that's the case how do I not over water?
Click to expand...
Also, my last feeding was 180 x10 ppm's that''s with all nuuts in a 1 gallon container
 
waterproof808 said:
1800 ppm sounds too high IMO. Did you start this topic because you are experiencing problems?
Click to expand...
Nothing out of the norm for indoor closet growers i guess. those ppm numbers are what i get from using the recommended amounts on back of bottle..bare minimum amounts too. When i put just the mills a-b in one gall the ppms are just under 1000. its the cal mag, buddah bloom and big bud that add the other 8-900.

your thoughts?
 
Flagg420 said:
Dont try to compare to others, it will always let you down. Thing is, not everyone uses RO water (0ppm)

And then PPM meters (and EC as well, one is just a calculation of the other) also run off 2 different scales... some are on a base 500, some are a base 700.... its fucking nuts.

If you are changing out the entire water supply (as I do in 5g DWC buckets) its easier to measure by volume. (Don't use hydrofarm marked measuring shotglasses.. they are shit, and the markings wipe off and move around when you get them wet.. even with water)

Take what the manufacturer says to use, and cut it in half.. even less for small plants. The amount for instance Advanced will have you using could grow a fucking redwood.

Find your own ppm level, for your plants, in your system, with your meter. It will take a few weeks to dial it in, but will be accurate. If after a week ur plants are looking a little light, use more. Leaves hooking, use less.

Get a quality meter too. Otherwise make sure to calibrate often, and properly. Bluelab is expensive shit, but its expensive enough that you take good care of it, and as such, its the only one ya gotta buy.

Keep ur Ph in range, and more important, keep the water cool, and well oxygenated. Nutes are nutes, and rank lower than most think.
Click to expand...
all sound advise sir. I tried the bucket hydro my first grow...not bad yield but way to much work for me :) soil more my speed now. but will use ppm instead of recommended bottle. Just need to find a chart with the right ppms for veg to grow cycles.

Happy growing
 
Flagg420 said:
Dont try to compare to others, it will always let you down. Thing is, not everyone uses RO water (0ppm)

And then PPM meters (and EC as well, one is just a calculation of the other) also run off 2 different scales... some are on a base 500, some are a base 700.... its fucking nuts.

If you are changing out the entire water supply (as I do in 5g DWC buckets) its easier to measure by volume. (Don't use hydrofarm marked measuring shotglasses.. they are shit, and the markings wipe off and move around when you get them wet.. even with water)

Take what the manufacturer says to use, and cut it in half.. even less for small plants. The amount for instance Advanced will have you using could grow a fucking redwood.

Find your own ppm level, for your plants, in your system, with your meter. It will take a few weeks to dial it in, but will be accurate. If after a week ur plants are looking a little light, use more. Leaves hooking, use less.

Get a quality meter too. Otherwise make sure to calibrate often, and properly. Bluelab is expensive shit, but its expensive enough that you take good care of it, and as such, its the only one ya gotta buy.

Keep ur Ph in range, and more important, keep the water cool, and well oxygenated. Nutes are nutes, and rank lower than most think.
Click to expand...


Aside from saying RO is zero ppm, it's all good info.. FYI RO can be but only when using extremely high pressure booster pumps. A quality RO (with booster) will reduce municipal water by 90%. My tap currently is ~ 322, post RO is ~ 40 . Buying RO water from a large grocery machine is typically < 10ppm
 
Last edited:
Replace your filters, or get a better filter. I never see anything over 20ppm off my filtered municipal water, but I only let my filters go 6 months, 12 tops. They just aren't expensive enough not to.
 
High Versant.

43ppm out of the tap is pretty damn good. Town water here is 350-450 depending on the season and tastes like dirt. Even with the Brita filter it tastes like dirt so when we lived in town we were already buying RO for drinking. On the acreage here our tap water comes out of a large dugout on my property, gets filtered down to 5micron but has no sterilization so we still buy RO for drinking and for my plants.

1800ppm for your nutes is pretty high. I'll maybe get up to 1400 with a heavy feeding type strain like Kush but generally I'm looking at a max of a 1000ppm going into flowering. I have very low humidity too tho and will be looking to drop my ppm about 25% to prevent toxic salts buildup, TSB, that has been giving me crispy leaves around the 5th week of flower.

The lower the humidity the faster the plant transpires water and at high ppm draws up more nutes than it can use so stores them in the leaves. Eventually the extra salts start cooking the leaves and what you think is normal yellowing of the fan leaves later in flowering is TSB. Normal yellowing gives you soft, thinner leaves where TSB gives you dry, crispy and thick leaves.

Now that I got that figured out I'll use lower ppm levels rather than try to keep the RH higher which is damn near impossible here without a big humidifier.

PPM-EC-CF8x11.jpg
 
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