Plant Moisture Stress - Symptoms and Solutions

DTR

DTR

Active Member
i hear you on that i got a moisture meter yesterday and fed them i have a very rich soil so im thinking that she just dried out way to often along with the abuse as a infant here she is from a further view shes hurting for sure so is my chemD that was also abused as a child then theres the bubbas that are a bit smaller they werent abused and seem fairly happy just had a very short veg

im going to use the moisture meter and keep them moist instead of x water per x time or waiting for them to droop or be to lite

iv learned alot from this site and am always reading to learn more along with experimenting with my plants

i love this place all these veteran growers that share their knowledge my first attempt i was taken in by the hype wasted money and time but this grow is better then last and hopeing next will improve as well
 

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wyteboi

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
wyteboi said:
hey ub :bigjoint:

i was just reading my neem bottle....... i may have myself a situmantation on my hands?
(well we all know im havin major lockout issues)
this could not possibly cause a "slow lockout" could it? when i say slow , i mean i would think that if i was sprayin um with something that bad then it would show immediately right?
anyways here it is:
Green Light neem concentrate. organic omri bla, bla.
Active ingre. ...Clarified hydrophobic extract of neem oil..............70%
inert ingr. ...............30%
thats it , is it that bad?
thanks!

1st pic is the beginning (about a week after re-pot from cups too pots)
2nd is about 3 weeks after repot. (and was pretty green about 10 days before this pic)
the others are leaf damage and believe it or not, recovering from the complete lockout.
View attachment 680833View attachment 680834View attachment 680835View attachment 680836


the one on the far left was WAY worse a few weeks ago!
wb
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bump for me please :bigjoint:
sorry had to,
 
N

NMBudMan

Member
Okay, so this is my first plant and I'm still confused here. I have a similar problem. My plant is approx 3-4 weeks old. It was in a 2 liter soda bottle until I just replanted it in a 5 gal bucket w/holes in bottom for drainage.

BEFORE i transplanted it, the lower-most set of leaves started turning brown at the tips and spreading down the whole leaf. I plucked those off and then transplanted. It beens two days and what is now the lowest set of leaves is starting to have the same problem. I've attached photos. Like i said, this started before i transplanted.

I'm using the same potting soil as before. I think it has time release fertilizer ball-thingys in it, which I know now is bad for the small plants. Its about 3.5 inches tall and the roots were s inches deep in the soda bottle before i transplanted. I've got a 27watt CFL about 2 inches above the plant. its only the lowest leaves that are suffering.
Please help!! This is my first baby and I don't want to lose it!http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy205/jgw2205/Basil Sprouts/resized__JGW8122.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy205/jgw2205/Basil Sprouts/resized__JGW8120.jpg
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy205/jgw2205/Basil Sprouts/resized__JGW8118.jpg
 
SIRE

SIRE

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben said:
Yeah, more info is needed regarding elements given.

Are those the thrip damaged leaves?
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Hello UNCLE BEN how r u? First let me start off by saying ur research and experience is so valued here(NO duh huh?) Well i noticed its hard to find information u write on the veeeery begining stages. i havent been able to even get to the intricate parts other people have seen its frusrating. i would like to b ur PETER PARKER UNCLE BEN lol. hopefully i can start fresh with u and go day to day with u. well lemme tell u bout what has happened and im sure you'll agree i need help.

a friend gave me some seeds and i took them and soaked em for 24hrs and then placed them in the paper towel. i then proceeded to make a vegatative box. i bought a rubbermaid tub and top. i cut 2 holes under each handle across from each other one slightly higher than the other and mounted 2 80 mm pc fans over the holes one for intake one for exhaust then i lined the tub with milar (i later changed to black and white paper) and mounted a 24'' t5's under the top. i purchased a hot house and promix bx with mycourse soil. once the tap root was visible i placed em in a party cup full of the soil and 15% perlite. but unfortunately the holes i cut was too small and the temp in the tub was 93 to 97 degrees. well in an attempt to cool it down i over watered and i ruined em. so i scratched that and planned to start over. so i cut bigger holes (which til this day the box b anywhere from 78-85 degrees now) and ordered some feminized seeds from DR GREENTHUMB called ENDLESS SKY. when i was at the nursery the guy told me i shouldnt use the promix bx cause its too strong to start seeds in. so he showed me these rooting plugs called RAPID ROOTS and some root hormones called THRIVE ALIVE. according to the label it said soak the plugs i did in distilled water. then it says leave water under them in the tray well i did that and BAM!fungus. i germed 4 and 3 was hit by fungus the other one had oval leaves and very miniture true leaves. so i first called the nursery and once he read the lable on the RAPID ROOTS he said thats probably for tomatoes or something not cannibas (gee thanks!) then i called DR GREENTHUMB and asked him why the leaves havent grown he said i needed to feed it 1\4 strength fertilizer and i shouldve been doin that from the beginning (germination). so i went again to the nursery and bought some biobizz bio grow, alg-a-mic and fishmix. the chart that came with the stuff said dont feed bio grow until after a week and the alga-a-mic 2 weeks so i didnt use it. eventually the one died sooooo once again for the 3rd time i started over. this time i germed 4 seeds. i squeezed out most of the water til it was 1 or 2 drops of distilled water coming out then i put 3 that was showin their tap root in the hot house one was(and still is) idle two were growing strong so once they sprouted i placed them under the t5's and the next morning they were slumped over they were kinda dry i added water to them and the one that dropped the seed shell grew back up the other didnt for whatever reason. i'm going to order other seeds but i first want to kinda get directions day to day with u how bout it? i'm too frustrated to keep doing this.
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
SIRE said:
Hello UNCLE BEN how r u? .....
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Doing fine. First things first, posting decorum - please don't post this in 3 different threads, also a new thread would be best.

Sounds like you got a germination problem and/or a case of pythium rot (damp-off) so I'll post my germ archive. Not set in stone and is rather anal, but for a noob it will guarantee results.

Uncle Ben said:
Germinating Cannabis Seeds (for Bio Growers)

Your seedlings will be alot better off if you germinate directly in soil - less handling and mechanical disturbance means less chance of physical damage to the plant's taproot (and roothairs) and less food reserves used to position itself due to the natural hormonal influence called Gravitropism - that spells seedling VIGOR.

This is my foolproof method for Cannabis Seed Germination in soil:

First, if harvesting seeds from my own crosses, I air-dry newly harvested seeds for a couple of weeks, and then store them in the refrigerator with a little rice. Cold-treatment seems to increase viability and germination rates, especially with indica-dom strains. I almost always get a 100% germination rate with quality seedstock.

Soak the seeds in plain water for at least 12 hours prior to planting to hydrate them, which will speed up germination. In general, good seeds will sink, bad seeds will remain floating (they contain air, not an embryo). I first sterilize seeds in a bleach solution (1 Tbsp. bleach/1 gallon of water) for 1/2 hour to kill any fungus residing on the seedcoat. Dump the sanitizing solution and top off your glass with clean water, you do not need to rinse those seeds.

Sterilize enough *damp* fine soil with heat to germinate all of your seeds. You can do this by treating the damp soil to temps of (no more than) 200F for 20 mins in a conventional oven, or in a microwave oven on high for 2 minutes, while stirring a couple of times, or pouring boiling water thru the mix. Your goal is to get and hold the entire soil mix's temperature at 170F to 180F for about 20 minutes which can be monitored with a probe type thermometer. Let the mix cool thoroughly. This will insure that damp-off fungus spores have been killed in the soil mix. Make sure the soil mix is light and humusy (not real coarse). You can add a little sand or vermiculite to aid in drainage and weight. Stay away from perlite, it has a nasty habit of floating out of the mix (if you do indeed need to water later).

Buy some white 20oz styrofoam "drinking glasses", commonly called "Styro-Cups", and punch holes in the bottom (and side bottom) for drainage. I use a red-hot ice pick for this. These containers are 6 1/2" tall and will allow ample room for the taproot to grow before cotyledon emergence which will increase your seedling's vigor. The taproot (radicle) is already at least 4" long at the point of emergence - don't restrict it in order to maximize seedling growth rate. Styro-Cups can be found on the shelf displaying picnic items at your local grocery store.

Fill the pots almost to the top with your soil mix, water well to settle the mix, take a pencil and make a small hole about 1/4" to 1/2" deep, NO deeper, and drop *one* seed in. Cover the seed with *fine* soil, only enough to top up the hole, firm lightly with your finger, and lightly water until water runs freely thru the drain holes. Place in a warm spot around 80F/26C. Do NOT cover the cup with saran wrap or anything else. The seed has been hydrated from the soaking and will germinate soon. This container should not require further watering until the seedling is up and running.

During the first couple of days, mist the top soil surface lightly if need be, never allowing the top to crust over, but not to the point that the medium stays waterlogged which will invite pythium rot. "Less is more" at this point. Do NOT water this pot any more until the seedling is up, and only if it needs it at the point of emergence and do NOT mist the seedling once it is up as you're inviting damp-off disease if you do. Again, no need to cover with plastic wrap as the radicle (taproot) will grow at least 4" before the cotyledons emerge from the soil. IOW, even though you can't see it, the plant's root is seeking and finding moisture at the container's lower soil levels. I cannot emphasize this enough. The seedling will emerge anywhere from 2 to 10 days from the time you sow it.

That's all to it! With good care, your faves will be ready to transplant within 1 to 2 weeks, and will easily slip out of the "cup" with a solid rootball that will never know it's been disturbed if potted up gently and quickly. Move up to a final pot of 3 to 5 gallons to sex and finish.

An effective transplant solution can be made using (no more than) 1 level teaspoon of a 15-30-15 fert and 10 drops of Superthrive per gallon of water. Take note regarding the immediate growth spurt after this upcan!

Good luck,
Uncle Ben
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SIRE

SIRE

Well-Known Member
uncle ben said:
doing fine. First things first, posting decorum - please don't post this in 3 different threads, also a new thread would be best.

Sounds like you got a germination problem and/or a case of pythium rot (damp-off) so i'll post my germ archive. Not set in stone and is rather anal, but for a noob it will guarantee results.
Click to expand...

thanks and i apologize im new to the forum tools and edicates. So would i b able to communicate with u thru this thread?
 
DaveCoulier

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
DaveCoulier said:
Heres something for you to read about peat moss.

http://www.dirtdoctor.com/newforum/root/needing-bulk-peat-moss-t8335.html

Its left me a little more confused now haha.

I do know SPM is often blended with compost in soil mixes, so I wouldn't say SPM is killing the good microbes in it.

Im sure UB can shed some light on whether SPM is really sterile or not.


Regarding the yellowing with bronze spots, Ive experienced that multiple times.

I experienced it on one lady, and had no clue what it was. I thought I may have been under-feeding her, so I gave her full strength nutes, and it stopped spreading(still lost the affected leaves), and she is doing great. 5 weeks into flower now, and no more symptoms like that on FS nutes. Nothing else was changed.

Another time, I was over-watering my second batch of plants and they all developed the same symptoms. I cut back on the water, and they all grew out of it.

The third time, my ph pen was fucked up and I was incorrectly ph'ing my water, and they all got yellowing at the bottom with bronze spots, and the upper leaves were still green but with bronze spotting. I quit using the pen, and said "Fuck Ph'ing" and the symptoms went away and they look so much better.

Hopefully one of those are your problems and you can fix it.

Btw, I assume you're using a cal/mag supplement with the RO water. Which makes me ask UB, is there sufficient Cal/Mag in moist soil mixes(amended with dolomite) that a Cal/Mag supp isn't necessary if using RO water?
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Here are a couple of vids to watch that discuss spm and microbes for anyone interested. It seems SPM isn't sterile at all.

http://microbeorganics.com/cansphagnum1.wmv

http://microbeorganics.com/cansphagnum2.wmv
 
mr.smileyface

mr.smileyface

Well-Known Member
Hey uncle, I have plants that are in two gallon grow bags. There is no roots coming out of the bottom and they seem to be growing vigorously. They were in veg for 16 days and now 5 weeks done in flowering. They are about 2-3 feet tall. Im going in promix hp and giving them a good recipe. Only a few leaf tips curled down on two of them but seems like the other 145 got the perfect amount and they are very good looking ladies haha. I was just wondering if they could get potbound and what could happen if they got potbound. The grow bible says a 2 gallon can saport up to 2-3 months of growing. They didnt get any juice in veg because i was on a vacation in the cement walls under close watch :) Its were all the dope growers dread being. Well i got out and they were in 12/12 the same day. I then fed them 1tbsp of 10-30-20 per gallon of water. I did that for the first few weeks to save money. After i gave them that i gave them a good flush to take out salt build up. That stuff tends to cause it. The pro mix seems fool proof. After the first few weeks of that i then begun a hydro recipe that i created from experiance with my ladies from before. I save the last week for cold water and purple buds :) Anyways they are doing fine and wondering if they could get pott bound.
 
mr.smileyface

mr.smileyface

Well-Known Member
mr.smileyface said:
Hey uncle, I have plants that are in two gallon grow bags. There is no roots coming out of the bottom and they seem to be growing vigorously. They were in veg for 16 days and now 5 weeks done in flowering. They are about 2-3 feet tall. Im going in promix hp and giving them a good recipe. Only a few leaf tips curled down on two of them but seems like the other 145 got the perfect amount and they are very good looking ladies haha. I was just wondering if they could get potbound and what could happen if they got potbound. The grow bible says a 2 gallon can saport up to 2-3 months of growing. They didnt get any juice in veg because i was on a vacation in the cement walls under close watch :) Its were all the dope growers dread being. Well i got out and they were in 12/12 the same day. I then fed them 1tbsp of 10-30-20 per gallon of water. I did that for the first few weeks to save money. After i gave them that i gave them a good flush to take out salt build up. That stuff tends to cause it. The pro mix seems fool proof. After the first few weeks of that i then begun a hydro recipe that i created from experiance with my ladies from before. I save the last week for cold water and purple buds :) Anyways they are doing fine and wondering if they could get pott bound.
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i forgot to add her
 

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Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
SIRE said:
Hey how r u? well i followed ur germination stages. i did have a question tho..... u never mentioned light. when do i began with light?
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Immediately. Read a book on plant culture basics.

mr.smileyface said:
Hey uncle, I have plants that are in two gallon grow bags. There is no roots coming out of the bottom and they seem to be growing vigorously. They were in veg for 16 days and now 5 weeks done in flowering. They are about 2-3 feet tall. Im going in promix hp and giving them a good recipe. Only a few leaf tips curled down on two of them but seems like the other 145 got the perfect amount and they are very good looking ladies haha. I was just wondering if they could get potbound and what could happen if they got potbound.
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It'll will stunt their growth. You can get around that somewhat by using a complete hydro food.

The grow bible says a 2 gallon can saport up to 2-3 months of growing.
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You can only use such "facts" as a guide. No two plants or gardens are the same.

They didnt get any juice in veg because i was on a vacation in the cement walls under close watch :) Its were all the dope growers dread being. Well i got out and they were in 12/12 the same day. I then fed them 1tbsp of 10-30-20 per gallon of water. I did that for the first few weeks to save money.
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TABLESPOON? I hope you meant teaspoon.
 
mr.smileyface

mr.smileyface

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben said:
Immediately. Read a book on plant culture basics.



It'll will stunt their growth. You can get around that somewhat by using a complete hydro food.



You can only use such "facts" as a guide. No two plants or gardens are the same.



TABLESPOON? I hope you meant teaspoon.
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You can only use such "facts" as a guide. No two plants or gardens are the same.

That is also true. I have two growing in one three gallon and they are just as big as the others.


uhhh nope haha. I put a cup of it in 25 gallons. so two teaspoons each gallon. They were so hungry i had to. When i was using that blue powder 10-30-20. I waterd with that once a week and with water once a week. After 5 weeks there was no problems. Maybe they were just starved. Its a soilless mix so there is no nutes cept calcium. The 10-30-20 does not contain calcium and my tap water is under 50ppm. So they got all they needed. Im using hydro nutes now. They seem to be growing fine. How bad could the potbound hit them within the last three weeks?
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
mr.smileyface said:
You can only use such "facts" as a guide. No two plants or gardens are the same.

That is also true. I have two growing in one three gallon and they are just as big as the others.


uhhh nope haha. I put a cup of it in 25 gallons. so two teaspoons each gallon. They were so hungry i had to. When i was using that blue powder 10-30-20. I waterd with that once a week and with water once a week. After 5 weeks there was no problems. Maybe they were just starved. Its a soilless mix so there is no nutes cept calcium. The 10-30-20 does not contain calcium and my tap water is under 50ppm. So they got all they needed. Im using hydro nutes now. They seem to be growing fine. How bad could the potbound hit them within the last three weeks?
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You'll have to wait and see on the potbound situation. Some growers have such fast growing plants that their plants will become potbound quickly, some never reach that stage. Yep, treat soil-less like you would hydro.
 
mr.smileyface

mr.smileyface

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben said:
You'll have to wait and see on the potbound situation. Some growers have such fast growing plants that their plants will become potbound quickly, some never reach that stage. Yep, treat soil-less like you would hydro.
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Is it less likly to get potbound since its more of a hydro? im sure soil is more compact and has less rooting space. How come rockwool doesnt get rootbound?
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
mr.smileyface said:
Is it less likly to get potbound since its more of a hydro? im sure soil is more compact and has less rooting space. How come rockwool doesnt get rootbound?
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If your rockwool is in a very large space, then I guess it won't become rootbound. "Rootbound" usually refers to a condition for plants growing in soil in a pot.
 
L

lostkoastpyrate

Active Member
Heya Uncle Ben-
New to the webpage and stoked to have found your article... I am not new to gardening but am definitely using a new formula. i went organic for years and a little while back a friend convinced me to switch to house and garden. As far as my practice goes, I am using 4x1000w hps in a dialed room with little temp flux. Growing in 5 gallon pots in a soil medium, using RO water, and PHing accordingly. As far as babies go, I have 60 little ones with 4 strains, chem dawg, purple diesel, skush, and purple mist. Everything was going fine until I bumped up the house and garden nutrient level as recommended for the first week of veg, aggressive ration. My leaves have now gone from dark to light green, with patches of yellowing in between veins on the new and newer (as opposed to older) growth. Some of the leaves have also become bumpy in between veins. It appears as though i have over fertilized. They are no more than ten days old and I am debating whether to let them keep going until the soil dries up, flush them or what... Ahh, the problems of a new nutrient formula.
Thanks in advance
 

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