Pfr/Pr and far red lights for faster flowering

Silicity

Well-Known Member
After seeing a bunch of fools changing their lighting schedule to things like 11-13 or 10-14 to try and speed up the flowering time I thought that this information needs to be reviewed by the lot of people on RIU.

I take no credit for this whatsoever and do not expect rep nor likes for this whatsoever, all credits to tutu.

I posted this on another forum thought I'd share with you guys.Phytochrome is a photoreceptor, a pigment that plants use to detect light. It is sensitive to light in the red and far-red region of the visible spectrum. Many flowering plants use it to regulate the time of flowering based on the length of day and night (photoperiodism) and to set circadian rhythms. It also regulates other responses including the germination of seeds, elongation of seedlings, the size, shape and number of leaves, the synthesis of chlorophyll, and the straightening of the epicotyl or hypocotyl hook of dicot seedlings. It is found in the leaves of most plants.

Biochemically, phytochrome is a protein with a bilin chromophore.

Phytochrome has been found in most plants including all higher plants; very similar molecules have been found in several bacteria. A fragment of a bacterial phytochrome now has a solved three-dimensional protein structure.Other plant photoreceptors include cryptochromes and phototropins, which are sensitive to light in the blue and ultra-violet regions of the spectrum.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phytochromecircadian

rhythms is just how a plant times a single day.This is the really interesting bitPhytochromes are characterised by a red/far-red photochromicity. Photochromic pigments change their "colour" (spectral absorbance properties) upon light absorption. In the case of phytochrome the ground state is Pr, the r indicating that it absorbs red light particularly strongly. The absorbance maximum is a sharp peak 650–670 nm, so concentrated phytochrome solutions look turquoise-blue to the human eye.

This is the bit that interests me the most

But once a red photon has been absorbed, the pigment undergoes a rapid conformational change to form the Pfr state. Here fr indicates that now not red but far-red (also called "near infra-red"; 705–740 nm) is preferentially absorbed. This shift in absorbance is apparent to the human eye as a slightly more greenish colour. When Pfr absorbs far-red light it is converted back to Pr. Hence, red light makes Pfr, far-red light makes Pr. In plants at least Pfr is the physiologically active or "signalling" state.

Using a light in the 650-670nm range will put the phytochrome into it's signalling state (or for our particular plant it will keep the plant in veg.) Even if you gave a plant 12/12 if you had a 660nm light source of suitable intensity the plant would stay in veg mode. The intensity of light needed to keep in veg especially since the change of state from Pr to Pfr is near instantaneous means that pulsing a low wattage 660nm light will extend the day for minimal electricity costs. How useful to a ganja grower is debatable but you could start plants in a conservatory in March and use this to extend the day. normal cfl's contain enough 660nm to work no special lamps are needed.
This is extremely useful for other crops though.

Let's read that bit again

When Pfr absorbs far-red light it is converted back to Pr. Hence, red light makes Pfr, far-red light makes Pr. In plants at least Pfr is the physiologically active or "signalling" state.This means if we use a far red source on a plant we will get near instant phytochrome state change.

So what does this really mean?

Phytochrome decays from Pfr to Pr in the absence of 660nm wavelength light even with far red light source ~ 2 hours at which point the plant is "asleep" for want of a better word, this means*

1. using far red you can shorten your plant days by 2 hours or over a year save 30 days a year without effecting yield at all!

2. That's not all you can force plants in your garden into flower several weeks earlier than they would naturally go into flower using a timer instead of having to physically move them into dark by hand. Only very low wattage lamps will be needed.

*3. Also you should in theory be able to induce stretch with far red.

4. You can run 14/10 days for theoretically higher yields
this has been tested and from personal experience it's well worth it to try it.

my bad if this is not allowed or I am breaking a rule somehow.

feel free to ask questions as I'll do my best to explain/help.
 

Silicity

Well-Known Member
interesting info here people, would be nice if some other people who have experimented with this chime in.
 

Silicity

Well-Known Member
its also possible to veg and flower a plant at the same time, very useful for sexing a plant. you can also alter alot of different growth by using specific spectrums, ill be posting exact methods on how to do so.

many people dont research lighting enough and this will hold you back from better yields and growth overall.
 

dolamic

Well-Known Member
Well I'm confused as to how the 660nm spectrum of red light [which is usually only used for flowering] is beneficial to keep the plant stuck in the vegetative stage? What happens when you get an LED light that has 660nm and you flip it to 12/12? It flowers. I have done this. So, maybe am I reading that part wrong?
 

Silicity

Well-Known Member
exactly, the plant recognizes it is getting to much darkness and it continues to flower regardless, he stages that of suitable intensity it would stay in veg mode, this bit confuses me a little as it doesnt describe the conditions and wether or not the plant is given 660nm during its dark perios, if it was during the dark period then the plant would stay vegging but only during then.
 
What is the exact technique you use Silicity? How has it effected your flowering period, yields, and quality?

I saw that the new LED pontoons by Inda Gro for their PAR 420 uses this technology, and turns on a 730 nm light for 5 mins after lights out. Do you use a similar technique?
 

Silicity

Well-Known Member
What is the exact technique you use Silicity? How has it effected your flowering period, yields, and quality?

I saw that the new LED pontoons by Inda Gro for their PAR 420 uses this technology, and turns on a 730 nm light for 5 mins after lights out. Do you use a similar technique?
When I tested it had been 730nm on for 15 minutes after dark period starts. In comparison to other plants it did have bigger buds a few days soon, more pistil growth early on, overall it was the alpha plant. If you use this technique for long flowering sativas you'll be able to shave a lot of time off.
 

Silicity

Well-Known Member
Going to be starting a new experiment in a few short months, will post very detailed and everything will be documented across my study. Any questions will be answered regarding this topic asap.
 

shaun2000

Well-Known Member
Thanks For info, would give u rep but i have to spread some around before giving back to u again lolz.,
 

bmeat

New Member
im at a loss..what would 650nm translate to in kelvin?

if i have 6 spots for bulbs, would it be better for me to have 6 2700k bulbs, or 4 2700k bulbs and 2 6400k?
 

Silicity

Well-Known Member
im at a loss..what would 650nm translate to in kelvin?

if i have 6 spots for bulbs, would it be better for me to have 6 2700k bulbs, or 4 2700k bulbs and 2 6400k?
You best stick to leds as its lot more controllable and accurate.
 
Hey again Silicity! Thanks for the timely response, sorry for taking so long to return.

Has your new experiment begun? I'm curious about the LED's you are using, and the wattage required to actually be of use. I'll have some extra cash laying around soon, and this is definitely something I want to experiment with!

Thanks in advance!
 
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