Organic no till, probiotic, knf, jadam, vermicomposting, soil mixes, sips etc... Q & A
- Thread starter hyroot
- Start date
SSGrower
Well-Known Member
I agree, looks like a similar product but since teraganix dosent publish detailed analysis that I'm aware of, hard to make direct comparison.
hyroot
Well-Known Member
No that has other ingredients than what labs and em1 have. The lactobacillus will out compete all the other bacteria in that bottle.
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hyroot
Well-Known Member
Teraganix has said in the probiotic farmers alliance what the inputs are. I've already said what they are in prior posts. labs, yeasts and purple non sulfur bacteria (pnsb)
hyroot
Well-Known Member
Yes you can activate em1 instead of making labs and aem
projectinfo
Well-Known Member
Ah so this bottle is pretty much useless .
SSGrower
Well-Known Member
The purple mitochondrial photosynthetic component is imo one of the most important parts of em1, how can you ensure its survival during activation? I am becoming less a fan of using molasses as a sugar bas and more curious about using purple plant material, particularly plants that exhibit other desireable characteristics. Local variation of em1 achieved through activation? Is it such a thing?
hyroot
Well-Known Member
Pnsb , lab and yeasts work synergistically.
You can get pnsb in rice wash. The milk will kill it off. After the separation if added it will survive.
I've heard if you leave lab out in the sun. Pnsb will develop. I haven't tried it. The companies that use pnsb collect it from arctic ponds.
Molasses is just food stock for the microbes and a stabilizer. Water allows more room for microbes to multiply
SSGrower
Well-Known Member
I wouldnt have called it usless until I saw the statment about 100 days harvist interval?
I should have read the whole label before commenting.
My concern is how does the food source rank on the menu of the available diners? Yeast will hammer molasses and thrive, but does the pnsb feel the same way? As you say they are synergistic.
Can I just reitterate how much I appreciate you taking the time to post the details thst you have here, recipies and such.
MustangStudFarm
Well-Known Member
JDAM in my mind still=
Sidvicious1
Active Member
Hey guys, I'm useing the rev's true living organics recipee and my question iss after u cook ur soil what should the ppm be of the run offf? I know u just run clean water the whole grow but I just wanted to know if I can check to see if it's to hot before I transplant with it. I have a ppm, ec meter when I did a few runs of DWC.. Ive tested some of the soil and it's running about 1200 ppmm. Just wanted to know if I need to cut it with uncooked organic soill, or peat moss? Thanks for the help guys..
Sidvicious1
Active Member
Here's the mix. also a cup of organic -5-5-5 fert_ and a half cup of gypsum.
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projectinfo
Well-Known Member
hyroot
Well-Known Member
We don't test the ppm and ph of run off. It's irrelevant to living soil. We're not using salts (phosphates, nitrates, and phosphoric acid). Amendments are in the soil. The microbes feed on the amendments to make them readily available for uptake. The plant feeds what it wants when it wants., The plant is in control. The microbes keep everything in balance. Everything you know about hydro goes out the window. Get rid of that hydro shop mentality. This is natural farming.
You can test ppm's of ferments when feeding with ferments. It's not even necessary. Plants can handle up to 5,000 ppm's of flower power fruit ferments.
I reamend my soil once or twice a year. So all the nutes in the soil should last at least 6 months..
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Strudelheim
Well-Known Member
Hyroot,
Im coming up on my 3rd run with the same batch of soil, Had mixed results the first two times, and some of the soil wasn't used for a full run either on some plants, as in I killed them halfway through bloom, or just vegged for a month or two and then recycled the soil. So I have added a full dose of amendments almost 3 times, at this point, I am worried that some things might be dangerously high, is that possible? Should I do a soil test to see? Is it common to have too nutrient rich soil, and that this causes major problems? If I add amendments and let them break down for a few months, do a grow that takes some of those, then add more amendments and they break down slowly and become available, can this be bad? I know that nitrogen excess is not good in flower, so I am trying to judge my plants based on how dark green / shiny the leaves are, but other than that and an overall yellow fade in the end of flowering I have no idea what to read my plants on. Im always worried if I am giving them too much nutrients in the soil, or if its not enough. A soil test will give me peace of mind? They all say good compost/humus/ewc is key, but I did a trial run of pure ewc/perlite 50/50 and it went very bad, so I am also worried with my mix, if I have just too much EWC/Compost. What do you base your re amendment amounts on? I know they say full amount first 2-3, and then what? half ?
any insight is appreciated. I am slowly making progress, but still have many questions at this point and am not confident that my plants are thriving, and trying to KIS.
heres my current recipe, i haven't amended with this everytime since the beginning, it has evolved to this over the last year but that is the overall strength.
Im coming up on my 3rd run with the same batch of soil, Had mixed results the first two times, and some of the soil wasn't used for a full run either on some plants, as in I killed them halfway through bloom, or just vegged for a month or two and then recycled the soil. So I have added a full dose of amendments almost 3 times, at this point, I am worried that some things might be dangerously high, is that possible? Should I do a soil test to see? Is it common to have too nutrient rich soil, and that this causes major problems? If I add amendments and let them break down for a few months, do a grow that takes some of those, then add more amendments and they break down slowly and become available, can this be bad? I know that nitrogen excess is not good in flower, so I am trying to judge my plants based on how dark green / shiny the leaves are, but other than that and an overall yellow fade in the end of flowering I have no idea what to read my plants on. Im always worried if I am giving them too much nutrients in the soil, or if its not enough. A soil test will give me peace of mind? They all say good compost/humus/ewc is key, but I did a trial run of pure ewc/perlite 50/50 and it went very bad, so I am also worried with my mix, if I have just too much EWC/Compost. What do you base your re amendment amounts on? I know they say full amount first 2-3, and then what? half ?
any insight is appreciated. I am slowly making progress, but still have many questions at this point and am not confident that my plants are thriving, and trying to KIS.
heres my current recipe, i haven't amended with this everytime since the beginning, it has evolved to this over the last year but that is the overall strength.
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MustangStudFarm
Well-Known Member
I've been sending my soil to a lab and I have been noticing that it is mostly the micronutrients that are low. It's common for me to be high in phosphorus, so I really limit my P inputs... I was using rock dusts and kelp, but still low in micros. I was like WTF... I've had multiple tests done over the years and micronutrient def is something that I need to pay attention to.
MustangStudFarm
Well-Known Member
Rabbit manure compost. I think that the P was so high that it locked-out some of the micros, I'm still not sure how that works...
hyroot
Well-Known Member
You have a lot of unnecessary amendments. The bone meals and manures will make the soil run pretty hot. I'd mix it
50/50 with soil that has not been amended. I would water with compost teas and seed sprout tea to break every thing down faster plus add Bokashi and Bokashi will definitely speed up cooking process breaking everything down much faster.
The bone meals and manures and guanos will make the cooking time take longer too
For my initial soil mix
per cubic foot
1 part ewc / compost, 1 part peat moss, 1 part aeration ( garden pumice)
½ cup kelp meal
½ cup crab shell meal
¼ cup ahimsa indian neem cake
¼ cup karanja cake
1 cup glacial rock dust
1 cup gypsum rock dust
2 cups basalt rock dust
Then I re-amend twice a year with half as much.
I feed ferments. Each once a week.
During flower Lab and Flower power FFE
During veg FPJ and Lab
Every 2 - 3 weeks in veg and flower I top dress bokashi and castings and occasionally top dress pureed malted barley.
Foliar sprays once a week
During veg and early flower I foliar spray with an alfalfa tea, Lab, Citrus ferment, and aloe. But each one separately.
During transition I foliar spray with wcap ( fermented charred animal bones) and wcp ( fermented charred egg shells).
I also add worms to the soil and have a worm bin and make my own castings. In the bin i feed the worms veggie scraps, alfalfa meal, bokashi, pulverized egg shells and charred animal bones, and left over material from making bubble hash. The bedding is a layered mix of dried leaves and coco.
I also like to use Azos sometimes when watering during veg.
i get all the extra needed micro and macro nutrients from bokashi and ferments
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Serverchris
Well-Known Member
Do you have how to make the ferments posted anywhere? I've been learning organics and surprisingly have come up with a routine really similar to yours misus the ferments but they are definitely something I'd be interested in adding.
Strudelheim
Well-Known Member
Perfect, thanks for sharing your recipe and feeding schedule.
I see that mine is almost twice as high in inputs. I was already thinking that on the next run I will do a trial and do one full strenght and one at 50% and compare the two, another trial was to put one plant directly into the mix with no re amendments and see how it does compared to amended. You do many more weekly feedings though, which I have tried not go down that road. Trying to KIS, do a solid rich mix and water only, and woul like to see some decent results first before adding more input. I felt that I have many high quality inputs in an extremely rich(nutrient & Microbial activity) and diverse mix that I should get good results for a couple at least a a solid run without any weekly teas. I just don't want to do weekly teas, when I already have 30% EWC in my mix. And in fact, I did teas and it caused problems on the last run, the mix was so rich, that a compost tea just unleashed so much more activity and nutrients that it was overkill. Im totally down for giving a tea in an older plant that has grown a fair bit in its pot and used up a lot and is showing a nitrogen fade from lower leaves. but I shouldn't have to give teas etc to a new plant just put into a fresh mix thats showing weird deficiences.
I also don't understand Top dressing, I mean if it takes a few weeks to break down, and I add it in week 3 of flower after the stretch, it becomes abailable in week 6 when I should instead let it fade and use up reserves. If I have 30% ewc in my mix, do I need to add handfuls on top increasing it even more? I add 1 gallon to every cubic foot at time of re amendment.
Do you do soil tests?