Organic Growing Made Easy & Fox Farms Ocean Forest!

Discussion in 'Organics' started by Sincerely420, Nov 7, 2012.


    DrCannaPath Well-Known Member

    Thank you very much brother for taking the time to read my post and reply! .... i was worried that my mix would be too hot at first then just went ahead and mixed it up anyway. Now that you mentioned it, i am hoping that the 4 to possibly 6 weeks of letting the soil "cook" will help out in regards to how hot it is. I am also going to wait until almost a week or few days before flipping bwfore i transplant the girls to their final and hotter mix. Hopefully that'll help them not burn. Ill also try to get some kelp from a nearby beach to dry it then use it for top dressing or in teas i know for a fact i wont be able to get anything to help raise the pH but ill try to collect some crushed seashells from the beach and see if I can pulverize it (or can i use it in as course as it is?) thanks bro again for your help. This organic gardening is like all new ocean for this fish and this fish is loving swimming in it

    Check out my new QuadStrain grow ;-) :
    and my previous TriStrain grow ;-) :

    ShLUbY Well-Known Member

    you're welcome! glad you saw the response! it's always good to ask questions...

    the thing about nutrients is they dont expire unless they are used up. so your microbes will consume some but the vast majority will still be in the mix, so letting it sit won't do a lot to "dilute" the mixture. what goes in stays in until it's taken out... you know... just like matter is neither created or destroyed. microbes will consume the nutrients and grow more microbes, but all that nutrition is still in the soil in the bodily forms of the microbes, and the stuff the exude. when the microbes die those nutrients that built their bodily forms are returned back to the soil and new microbes/benes consume those and so on and so on and so on. So basically what i'm saying is your plants pull the majority of nutrients from your soil to build plant matter! :)

    also i highly suggest waiting 2-3 weeks before flipping when you transplant (depending on container size 3wk is best IMO). you want to give the plants time to spread their roots out in the new pot, so that when you do flip, A) the can drink water faster which means they won't sit in a damp/wet soil between waterings. you gotta remember they can only drink and feed where the roots are so you want the roots to "move into the pot". B) having more roots will allow them to uptake what they need better/faster so when you do flip, they'll be able to take everything they need and really get an explosive start to flowering.

    IMO, if you flip a week after transplant, it's just not enough time to let the plant do what it needs to do to "move into the pot".

    pulverizing the shells would be best. you create more surface area. which means that more microbes can work on the shell flour. you can topdress the shells and over time they will work their way into the soil via water erosion/leaching. you have some lime in the FFOF so that will work until the shell flour starts to do its thing!

    just remember.... more is not always better!!!!
    DonTesla, Nu-Be and DrCannaPath like this.

    DrCannaPath Well-Known Member

    Thanks brother again for your reply and the additional tips. Alright ill try to let them go for a couple weeks before I flip. But then that means ill have to transplant them into their final pot maybe in a week when i just transplantted them from their 3" germination pots to their i think 8" veg pots 3 days ago. 10 days in this 8"pot is ok beforr i transplant again? The final pots I have are 35L (almost 10 gal). Thanks again brother

    Check out my new QuadStrain grow ;-) :
    and my previous TriStrain grow ;-) :

    ShLUbY Well-Known Member

    generally how i do it is from the cloner to a quart sized pot for a couple weeks so the roots fill it out, then to a 1 gal pot for 2-3 weeks so the roots fill it out, and then to a 7-10 gal for 2-3 weeks (again let roots grow) and then into flower. I know @greasemonkeymann 's process is very similar to mine.

    you want to build a good size root-ball before you get them into the bigger container, so i would say if you try and transplant from the 8" to the 10 gal it's just going to fall apart when you remove from the 8" so quickly. just remember.... some things in life are worth waiting for, even though i'm sure you're anxious as all fuck to get some into flower lol. i know i would be!

    greasemonkeymann Well-Known Member

    damn good advice, another thing worth mentioning is not only is this method the best for minimizing root-shock ( a formed rootball is nearly undisturbed at trans, done correctly)
    but the method is also the best for maximizing the soil web, frequent transplants tend to create a more dense rootball, reason being is cannabis is a drought tolerant plant, and it shoots the roots out as far as it can when transplanted, when it does that it tends to NOT fill inside the smaller areas inside the container, rather more on the outside (looking for water, so to speak)
    DonTesla and DrCannaPath like this.

    DrCannaPath Well-Known Member

    Thank you gentlemen for taking the time to help out a fellow grower ... i appreciate all your valuable advice. My axiety with trying to (or having to) send them into flowering by feb 15 is the time constraints I have. I have to go on 2 trips out of the country, once during and once after i harvest (and the trips are 3 weeks long each hah)
    Ill have to check the calendar and see if I can stretch the veg a little longer and flower after I come back from the first trip and make sure that (with estimated flowering time +2weeks) ill finish flowering AND harvest before I have to leave the country again for another 3 weeks
    Thank you gentlemen

    Check out my new QuadStrain grow ;-) :
    and my previous TriStrain grow ;-) :
    DonTesla, greasemonkeymann and ShLUbY like this.
    Brandon Nebel

    Brandon Nebel Active Member

    Why is everyone using azomite. Doesnt the heavy metal content bother anybody else but me. I dont want my medicine to contain mercury and aluminum. Arent there other products where we can get the trace elements without the heavy metals.
    DonTesla likes this.
    Tim Fox

    Tim Fox Well-Known Member

    I don't use it
    DonTesla likes this.
    Brandon Nebel

    Brandon Nebel Active Member

    What do you use instead.
    DonTesla likes this.

    DonTesla Well-Known Member

    sure bothers me

    I wont touch it for my commercial mix I don't want ppl getting Alzheimers or P lockup, personally

    DonTesla Well-Known Member

    I guess it depends what you're using it for, mate..

    for paramagnetic additives, there's blue metal dust / glacial rock dust / basalt, and more

    for minerals, there's Burgundy lava rock / greensand / kelp etc

    earth is so plentiful we just gotta look around a bit and look into each thing we come across.

    azomite was named azomite cause it has everything from a to z in it, literally


    DonTesla Well-Known Member

    @Lighter404 ok lets simplify Jah homie!

    If you can find some compost, lets use that eh! then just add about 40-45% aeration, depending how springy and pithy and fine it is, best stuff you can find, a combo is best but one will do to start.
    If you cant find compost you can get coir and Vigoro Black Earth (high humus blend) from Home Depot at $3 per bag. If no compost avail sub 1 part Vigoro Black Earth with 1 part Coir well rinsed to make 'compost' that day.

    then you can start your plants.

    from there you can work in the magnetic rock / mineral dust component into the topsoil with a fork as well as your fulvic and humic acid rich-homemade castings helped out with some kelp meal / neem meal if you can find.

    that right there is really all you need.

    1% neem
    2% kelp
    4% magnetic rock dust
    10-15-20% castings once made (mix with aeration, simple top dress, can mix in next round)

    The forces of life:
    Fertile-rich, high-humus Compost
    Living Organisms
    Magnetic component

    (remember, even O2 is paramagnetic because it has two unpaired electrons)

    Lighter404 Member

    Awesome- thank you very much. I plan to get a better understanding about it as I go but it's a lot to take in all at once. So I've got easy access to most of that stuff though.[/QUOTE]
    Brandon Nebel

    Brandon Nebel Active Member

    Although youve already gotten solid advice from seasoned growers i thought i would still chime in and let you know what i did this yeat using FFOF amd FFHF mixed together. In years past i only used ocean forest and happy frog mixed together. Not sure why i started mixing them but i did and its always given great results. And i get both products locally for a steal. $9 per bag which makes it the same price as all the lower quality soils at home depot. Anyways this year i wanted to get more into organics. So i ammemded my soil using the following recipe i kind of created on my own after reading many forums. This is a recipe based on a 30 gallon smart pot. 30 gallon pots require 4.01 cu ft of soil, or 473 cups if you want to break it down more. So per 30 gallon pot i used the following

    80% mix of ocean forest and happy frog
    20% mix of ammendments which are:
    48 cups vermi organics EWC
    22 cups california gold humus
    3 cups kelp meal
    3 cups alfalfa meal
    3 cups glacial rock dust
    3 cups insect frass
    2 cups greensand
    3 cups dolomite lime
    1 cup langbeinite
    5-6 cups perlite.

    I contemplated using guanos or manures but my gut told me to steer clear and instead feed guano or manure teas instead to get the nitogen. I realized most of the ammendments were slow releasing and from my studies the guanos are not slow releasing. And based on Shlubly comments im right and glad i didnt use guanos in the soil. I will top dress or tea feed if necessary. I was a little apprehensive at first to transplant them into this mix as ive never done it before and usually just stick with what works cause ruining a crop while experimenting would not be fun. Anyways like i said, youve gotten great feedback already i just wantedto share my recipe as my plants are thriving so far in it. I transplanted them into the 30# smart pot a week ago, using mykos of course amd watered them in with liquid kelp and had zero transplant shock and they started doubling in size right away in just 8 days they havr grown like crazy. Im in northern california and we've had an insane heat wave the last week too. Anyways happy growing
    DrCannaPath likes this.

    BRANDON77 Well-Known Member

    Completely untested....please help me adjust my ratios and maybe what to add???
















    also considering gypsum, i figured the oyster shell and dolomite lime should provide enough calcium though. I have everything listed above except the oyster flour and feather meal.
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2017
    DonTesla likes this.

    Maersk Active Member

    Dont add mycorrhizae to the soil, they need roots...

    Add it to the roots when you transplant. your ratios do need adjusting but im no pro either...

    BobCajun Well-Known Member

    Anybody get Russet Mites when using the FFOF? Might not be a bad idea to microwave it or something, though I guess that would kill good organisms too. Probably beats having Russet Mites though. Here's a page showing how plants look when infested. I don't know if the plant in the video is infested or not, doesn't look as bad as the images on the linked page but could be.

    Last edited: Aug 27, 2017
    DonTesla likes this.
    Tim Fox

    Tim Fox Well-Known Member

    thats a first,, never heard of mites coming in the soil?,, i did hear that oregon let looose russet mites to combat some other mite the state did not want,, but i have not bothered to research if that is true or not,, but most of the local growers feel they did it to hurt them,, but i kinda doubt it

    BobCajun Well-Known Member

    The guy could just have misidentified it as mites, but still I wouldn't trust bought soil as is. If nothing else, it's often full of fungus gnat larvae. Probably a good rule is to sterilize all bought soil. Add new beneficial bacteria after that I guess. But those russet mites could really put a crimp in a weed growing region once established. Apparently they're also known as tomato mites, so if you also happen to grow tomatoes you should probably be extra watchful. Haven't actually investigated the subject beyond looking at the pics on that forum page I linked. Looks like bloody hell for growers though, invisible microscopic bugs that can lay waste to a plant in a few days.
    Tim Fox likes this.
    Tim Fox

    Tim Fox Well-Known Member

    this reminds me of one of the reasons i like to grow in whats called SIP's,, like the earthbox for instance, or the earthtrainer,, in sip growing we cover the top of the soil with plastic ,, like a shower cap idea,, some like the earthbox come with a fitted plastic cover,, others just use garbage bags,, ,, but in so doing we create a barrier between the soil and the plant,
    i have not seen a bug since i started doing this,, knats and other soil bound bugs if they exiist stay trapped in the dirt,,
    its worked well so far
    CollieWeed likes this.

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