New to wagos

Rahz said:

Spring connectors don't provide a ground contact which is the point of using a screw. Screws work fine if used properly, but if some glue provides peace of mind I'm all for it. If the screw is in a block of aluminum, tighten it down well. It's very likely not coming loose despite whatever vibration is present. If it's a through hole, hand tighten the screw. Hold the screw securely with the driver and wrench down the nut. It will be so secure the screw will strip if you attempt to loosen from the screw side. It's not going to vibrate loose. Nuts come loose when they aren't tightened properly.

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You can get ones which do, or you can just take your ground directly to the metalwork with a lug as you say or, depending on the type of metal, solder it directly to the metalwork and serrated washers are always a good thing as they'll also dig into the metal and give you a better connection as well as securing things better when using nuts/bolts or self-tappers. So many possibilities from drilling holes to clamps to hammer on caddy clips to push in spring connectors which fix to the metalwork.

For the power cables, things like connector blocks are what I'm talking about wrt to things coming loose. What Konop was talking about was the ground cable coming from the metalwork and how to hook that up with a two slot wago, not the actual connection on the metalwork itself, so I think we may have gotten our, erm, wires crossed (I feel so bad for dropping that one in).

I connected my split wires with a crimped female bullet connector encased in shrink wrap. Nice, clean and functional.
All my wires are hidden in cheap 18mm cable conduit with snap on lid.

Always a good option with the right tools as it is permanent, do it wrong and they fall out (I had that happen because of a worn out ratchet crimper, not fun with a 230v cable, it stung a little and I swear my pubes went straight)