Where in the hell am I?
Well-Known Member
Yah ya are, bro, jus keep @ those girls!
New CFL Grow
- Thread starter Where in the hell am I?
- Start date
dsn
Well-Known Member
Had some problems with PC, that`s all. Plants look alright, eaven the wild sativa-ruderalis is starting to bud better. But one of two last big buds also turned out to be a male, so now I have only one big bud clone, that`s female.Where in the hell am I said:
I still have some seeds, so gonna try to get nice BB females some few grows later.
Where in the hell am I?
Well-Known Member
Where in the hell am I?
Well-Known Member
Will once I get bakk, l8er!hey bud, wassup? don't forget to stop by my grow and see lots of progress.
and the latest, full scale version of Aerolights!
Where in the hell am I?
Well-Known Member
Got pics all over this thread, brah! Not to mention in my albums
Where in the hell am I?
Well-Known Member
Just curious, this is called air-cooled:
http://www.hydrofarm.com/pb_detail.php?itemid=3728
It shows ducting out of each end, does that mean that it is designed to NOT need an exhaust fan fer heat?
http://www.hydrofarm.com/pb_detail.php?itemid=3728
It shows ducting out of each end, does that mean that it is designed to NOT need an exhaust fan fer heat?
onenumcat
Well-Known Member
you'll get better 'flow' with some inline duct fans, that equals cooler lights/cooler room.
and you'll still need to exhaust the heat to the outside, unless you want it exhausted right into the
room...which kinda defeats the purpose of having ducted exhaust ports on the hood, right.
the final goal is to cool the room. removing the heat of the light from the room, via duct, is the method.
so one end of the duct is attached to the intake port or just open to the room. and the exhaust duct is attached to an exhaust port.
of course, there should be some type of air filter between the hood and the exhaust port, unless you like cops knocking your door down! rofl
P.S. it looks like that particular unit is sealed, has a lens and sealing foam. so, instead of starting the cooling process with warm room air,
the intake duct should be attached to an intake port leading outside the grow area. that air,
whether it's from your living area or fresh air from outside, is probably much cooler than the air in your grow area(depending on the season, or temp of you home).
if this is true, two air systems might be used. one solely for the lights and one solely for the room, and the filter only needs to be on the
system for the room as long as the light system has no leaks.
this way, practically no heat from the lights will be directed to your plants, imo.
P.P.S (lol) also, the duct included with that system are not insulated. if insulated duct was used, no heat would radiate from the exhaust duct.
insulated duct would only be needed on the exhaust end.
Where in the hell am I?
Well-Known Member
+Rep Now thats the shit I'm talkin about right there!!! To be honest, I already knew about all of the fundementals of heat displacement, but I do GREATLY APPRECIATE ya puttin it down thereyou'll get better 'flow' with some inline duct fans, that equals cooler lights/cooler room.
and you'll still need to exhaust the heat to the outside, unless you want it exhausted right into the
room...which kinda defeats the purpose of having ducted exhaust ports on the hood, right.
the final goal is to cool the room. removing the heat of the light from the room, via duct, is the method.
so one end of the duct is attached to the intake port or just open to the room. and the exhaust duct is attached to an exhaust port.
of course, there should be some type of air filter between the hood and the exhaust port, unless you like cops knocking your door down! rofl
P.S. it looks like that particular unit is sealed, has a lens and sealing foam. so, instead of starting the cooling process with warm room air,
the intake duct should be attached to an intake port leading outside the grow area. that air,
whether it's from your living area or fresh air from outside, is probably much cooler than the air in your grow area(depending on the season, or temp of you home).
if this is true, two air systems might be used. one solely for the lights and one solely for the room, and the filter only needs to be on the
system for the room as long as the light system has no leaks.
this way, practically no heat from the lights will be directed to your plants, imo.
P.P.S (lol) also, the duct included with that system are not insulated. if insulated duct was used, no heat would radiate from the exhaust duct.
insulated duct would only be needed on the exhaust end.
I was just curious as to wether or not the glass and design made it so that the cooling was accomplished through venting (ducting), and ambient outside of the grow area air flow would accomplish this. From yer answer, my deduction is that if my grow room has well circulated cool air flowing in the direction of my intake (doesnt have to be DIRECT), that will be enuf fer cooling, seein how the exhaust duct does its job
Where in the hell am I?
Well-Known Member
OK, tried takin about 50 pics tonight and they all came out like doo-doo, so sorry! I did, however, wanna @ least tell y'all WHY I want pics so bad!
My flowering seemed like it was pickin up pace, then 2nite just exploded w/even more new pistils!! It's insane. Yesterday they looked nothing like wat they look 2nite!
My flowering seemed like it was pickin up pace, then 2nite just exploded w/even more new pistils!! It's insane. Yesterday they looked nothing like wat they look 2nite!
Where in the hell am I?
Well-Known Member
Got my scope to look @ my trichs and they are still lookin like there's a lot of growin w/4 full weeks left!
onenumcat
Well-Known Member
yup, that is correct. if you're using an intake port to cool your room, then that air may be cool enough to adequately cool the bulb without having to use a duct direct to the intake port. however, during the summer, I assume you're in the north hemi and it's winter now, you may need to use direct line duct as the air will travel faster when fan forced, thus cooling it faster/more. moving air is cooler than non-moving air and the faster it moves the cooler it is/remains.+Rep Now thats the shit I'm talkin about right there!!! To be honest, I already knew about all of the fundementals of heat displacement, but I do GREATLY APPRECIATE ya puttin it down there
you may even want to, now or eventually, use a duct, insulated or not, on both intake/exhaust ends, and connect/disconnect it, on the intake end only, to suit the season...connected for summer, disconnected in winter. that way your light will be cooolest, when it's critical, in the summer, and a greater amount of heat from the bulb will be redirected out of the room/away from your plant(s). then disconnected, during winter, so you still get air flow around your bulb, but warmer air because its from the room rather than another, cooler source. that way, less heat is redirected through the exhaust port and more is left to assist in keeping your plants comfortable in the winter, without having to use a separate room/space heater.
sry I am so 'long winded', its' just part of my charm!! ROFL
Where in the hell am I?
Well-Known Member
Where in the hell am I?
Well-Known Member
Growth is still lookin incredible. Camera still only workin 1/2 assed @ best. Just wanted to let everyone know
onenumcat
Well-Known Member
oh, np man. all that crap was just my opinion. I don't really know...it's just what I think. I never used lights like those (bitchin lights though, got me thinking about the possibilities) and I haven't had a summer grow...yet.
so take everything I say with a grain of salt and bounce the idea off someone else also. I bet, for me, cooling will become a real problem! a question about those lights...is the ballast included? digital ballast? I'm really, really thinking about upgrading lights, but I have no idea how I could mount lights like that onto my Aerolights. I have round hoods, don't know if the squared will work for me, but they are better than what I have now.
hey 'Withai'(Where in the hell am I), lets see some sexy close-ups of your girls, as close as you can get, of the inner foliage, plz.
I got myself a moisture meter the other day. what a wonderful way to see how moist your soil it!
it's a scale from 1-8, 1 is dry and 8 is wet, so now I wait until the meter says 3 before watering...so easy.
also picked up a digital ph/temperature reader (was using litmus paper before, h8 that shit). now I can be very accurate with the ph!
I'd love to have the little pocket microscope, but can't seem to find one. if you don't have these two little gadgets, and got a few $ lying around,
I suggest getting em. remember, 'The pH of pure water decreases with increasing temperatures, however, that water that has been exposed to
air is mildly acidic. This is because water absorbs carbon dioxide from the air, and carbon dioxide is an acid.'
my water, from the tap is reading about 4.5C and 7.9ph, after leaving it in the room, open to the air, for 24hrs, it's 18C/7.0ph. but, if I then add nutes, it could
go up/down .5ph. this is probably, one, of many, reasons I had trouble on previous grows.
how do you test your ph?
P.S. digital ph/temp reader was about $100 and after scouring two, major, national, garden outlets...finally found it in a fish shop!! LOL
moisture meter cost a few $, cheap.
so take everything I say with a grain of salt and bounce the idea off someone else also. I bet, for me, cooling will become a real problem! a question about those lights...is the ballast included? digital ballast? I'm really, really thinking about upgrading lights, but I have no idea how I could mount lights like that onto my Aerolights. I have round hoods, don't know if the squared will work for me, but they are better than what I have now.
hey 'Withai'(Where in the hell am I), lets see some sexy close-ups of your girls, as close as you can get, of the inner foliage, plz.
I got myself a moisture meter the other day. what a wonderful way to see how moist your soil it!
it's a scale from 1-8, 1 is dry and 8 is wet, so now I wait until the meter says 3 before watering...so easy.
also picked up a digital ph/temperature reader (was using litmus paper before, h8 that shit). now I can be very accurate with the ph!
I'd love to have the little pocket microscope, but can't seem to find one. if you don't have these two little gadgets, and got a few $ lying around,
I suggest getting em. remember, 'The pH of pure water decreases with increasing temperatures, however, that water that has been exposed to
air is mildly acidic. This is because water absorbs carbon dioxide from the air, and carbon dioxide is an acid.'
my water, from the tap is reading about 4.5C and 7.9ph, after leaving it in the room, open to the air, for 24hrs, it's 18C/7.0ph. but, if I then add nutes, it could
go up/down .5ph. this is probably, one, of many, reasons I had trouble on previous grows.
how do you test your ph?
P.S. digital ph/temp reader was about $100 and after scouring two, major, national, garden outlets...finally found it in a fish shop!! LOL
moisture meter cost a few $, cheap.
Where in the hell am I?
Well-Known Member
I'll try to get a few worth while pics here in a minute, to be honest, my cam keeps pissin me off
I have a digital thermometer that was a Christmas gift. I have a soil probe multimeter fer water, light, and soil pH. I also have a separate soil test kit as well as a water test kit.
I have a digital thermometer that was a Christmas gift. I have a soil probe multimeter fer water, light, and soil pH. I also have a separate soil test kit as well as a water test kit.