NEED HELP - Best lamp project

Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
SSR said:
No problem at all.
If you're adding green I can't say you'd see much more benefit than just running whites as I think most have a reasonable amount of green already but defo worth a try as your setup will likely differ to what mines was.
Ill defo be interested in how you get on with it, best of luck
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On these next builds im building for friend to test some spectrums the design is pretty much set already.
3000k + 2000k + uva + ir
3000k 90cri + 660+ ir
3500k + wide red band + wide blue and uva+ ir
Got most of the stuff aleady so i doubt i will do any major changes to the design.
 
SSR

SSR

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
On these next builds im building for friend to test some spectrums the design is pretty much set already.
3000k + 2000k + uva + ir
3000k 90cri + 660+ ir
3500k + wide red band + wide blue and uva+ ir
Got most of the stuff aleady so i doubt i will do any major changes to the design.
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Sounds very similar to what a friend wants me to do, they've their mind set on a few things I personally don't think are the best idea but it's their money

I may pick your brains a bit too as poor randomblame is getting it just now lol
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
SSR said:
Sounds very similar to what a friend wants me to do, they've their mind set on a few things I personally don't think are the best idea but it's their money

I may pick your brains a bit too as poor randomblame is getting it just now lol
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It all depends on in which context youre growing ;)
 
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Merlin1147

Merlin1147

Well-Known Member
Wow this is a really great thread! A lot of smart and curious people involved. I found this on California Lighworks site while reasearching ramping controllers
https://news.californialightworks.com/using-spectrum-control-design-plant-aka-photo-morphogenetics/

A couple questions I have that I’m sure someone here can answer
What is the ratio of R:B of the Samsung LM561C?
Can I simply use LUX output of my channels as a metric to calibrate the ratios.

@ildiocane re UV. I have Semileds UV-A 390-400nm tied into the other chips on the blue channel so for better or worse they run the full schedule. The controller sounds promising. Re the 28 hour project. Thanks for the input. I think that is a discussion for a separate thread or PM me. I should have some data on growth and possible initiation next week
 
SSR

SSR

Well-Known Member
Merlin1147 said:
First they call you crazy, then they call for advise. Lol
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Happens a lot in this world lol. People are stuck in their ways or beliefs and not willing to experiment or change to learn, or even better spending some time reading. Americans have invested a lot in research the past few years, I haven't read a lot of what's been published but I'm starting to now.

Things have changed a lot though tbh, I've grown for years and got so used to flying under the radar it still makes me nervous talking to people about it, especially locally.

Sorry I'm not able to help with your question but hopefully these other lads can help
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
No, it's not the same.
Heater wavelengths are much higher an is pure heat radiation, between 1500-2000nm probably. Below 1000nm it's still called light.

Plant use far- and infra-red to adjust transpiration and with LED's there in only very little far-red and no IR.
With sun or HPS light the transpiration (VPD) is almost self adjusting but without FR/IR you need to adjust transpiration manually by maintaining sufficient humidity siutable for the current plant stage.

Lets say you have 1000μMol/s sun light. The visible spectrum is 400-700nm but there is also a lot light in the range 700-1000nm and this part regulates transpiration by increasing the leaf temps. With white or blurple LED's there is only very little output between 700 and 750nm but nothing above that. Leaf temps are the same or less than ambient.
So even with 1000μMol/s the plants don't get enough heat to regulate transpiration themself.

For this reasons we need to keep an eye on the VPD to keep the plants healthy which was simply not neccessary with HPS or other light sources with heat output similar to sun light. HPS, MH, HID, CMH, incandescent bulbs and even T5/T8 they all produce at least 15-30% heat and with all of them there is almost no need to increase humitity above 55%.(apart of the seedling stage). They all heat up the leaves by 2-3°C above ambient temps and you need only 25-26°C ambient temps to have the leaf temps in the optimal range and a lower ambient temp means you need also less humidity to keep the VPD in a healthy range.
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Which is more effecient 15w of IR or a running humidifier? I can't seem to find a total SPD for HPS, only one that goes to 740 or so, I was hoping you might have a copy of the entire SPD?
 
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jarvild

jarvild

Well-Known Member
@Randomblame , have you noticed any deterioration from the use of UV led's ? I'm starting to notice quite a bit of deterioration of the connectors from my lumi uv stars from Rapid. Also some thought on your use of optics with led's.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
jarvild said:
@Randomblame , have you noticed any deterioration from the use of UV led's ? I'm starting to notice quite a bit of deterioration of the connectors from my lumi uv stars from Rapid. Also some thought on your use of optics with led's.
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I'm using UVB/UVA bulbs (Agromax pureUV) and i've found a pinkish tint on white, non UV stable plastics. So, yeah! I've experienced it too. But I don't think its a problem cuz the inside of the connectors has metal elements to hold the wire.
Lenses would help but should be UV permeable cuz UVA/B is swallowed by normal pmma and glass. Probably not so easy to find UV lenses.

As long as it's only the plastik parts of the connectors I would not worry about it. Some deterioration seems to be normal with UVA/B light cuz not all plastics are UV resistant.
 
jarvild

jarvild

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
I'm using UVB/UVA bulbs (Agromax pureUV) and i've found a pinkish tint on white, non UV stable plastics. So, yeah! I've experienced it too. But I don't think its a problem cuz the inside of the connectors has metal elements to hold the wire.
Lenses would help but should be UV permeable cuz UVA/B is swallowed by normal pmma and glass. Probably not so easy to find UV lenses.

As long as it's only the plastik parts of the connectors I would not worry about it. Some deterioration seems to be normal with UVA/B light cuz not all plastics are UV resistant.
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UV diodes with optics sure didn't work in this old Adavanced XLM 150.
DSCN0812.JPG
But I was looking for, If you found the use of optics a plus or minus with our LED's of today.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
jarvild said:
UV diodes with optics sure didn't work in this old Adavanced XLM 150.
View attachment 4304065
But I was looking for, If you found the use of optics a plus or minus with our LED's of today.
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Maybe something like a diy reflector could work. Only make sure to use true metal like aluminum foil. Plasics, paint, aso do not reflect UV. Even glass coated reflector sheets like from adjust-a-wing doesn't work. But the cheap stucco reflector material works and you can get T5 reflectors for UVB bulbs for less than a tenner(e3ay/am4zon). Made my Agromax bulb reflectors of of cheap stucco sheet cause it has more even distribution.
Thin enough to cut it with a stable scissors.

Lenses in general are a minus. Even the best pmma materials reach only 94% efficiency so you lose 6% of the light. Yeah, they can catch the light trowing of in 120-180° angle but I its less than 6% and most of the time lenses smaller like 120° force you to hang the light higher.
They only make sense on the outer ends of a fixture to reduce the amount of light hitting the walls.
 
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Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
ChiefRunningPhist said:
I think glass filters/absorbs UV, I'm looking for a mini cone reflector that could snap onto a UV LED, curious if such a device exists. For a 3535...
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You can find such small alu reflectors for flashlights but you need to glue them on and I doubt they are available in 90-120° but who knows!? Maybe you'll find something siutable on alibaba or other chinese platforms selling flashlight parts. You could turn even a 30° reflector into a 120° one by cutting off/shorten the upper half with the reflector opening.
 
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