MrHowardMarks' experienced grower journal.

Thats sort of what I was gonna say later this week. I was gonna have him fix the tiles in the bathroom like I said before, but it turns out they would have to fix the whole wall behind it too, and I don't want to deal with that kind of hassle right now. So I told him not to worry about it, it will be fine till we move. He said he was gonna talk to the plumber too, and get back to me. So I'm gonna finalize all that, and just tell him that I think everything will be ok, and I'll make sure to have you the rent. I don't know how to tell him we want privcy without it seeming rude, or fishy.

I assume by "we" you mean you and your girl...

You could put all the blame on her...

Say she wanted to have her privacy, having the landlord around doing work all the time takes away from the "home" feeling and she isn't comfortable with the fact he could come in any time...

That might work...


I just kept to myself, and he left me alone... Not once did I call to have anything fixed.

man you r setup and plants fucking rock man

Thanks

Beastly Yields wow!

I like the idea of using here. I don't usually have to bother my landlord for anything, thats why i really want to put an end to this bathroom thing. That came up when we first moved in.

Oh an MHM, what do you think of Milwaukee tds/PH test equipment, I was looking at some earlier? I've also looked at that hanna combo meter you suggested, thats what I think I'm gonna go with.

The Hanna is the cheapest combo meter you can get... It works, but you have to calibrate it fairly often...


Milwaukee is midgrade, I've heard that the probes don't last very long, and need fairly frequent replacement. They also have more precise equipment, but any company who sells both excellent and decent stuff can't be trusted IMO.

Eutech is the most affordable top of the line, my pH pro2 has lasted 8 years +...


BlueLab is the most expensive and most accurate meter... I had the tri-meter dropped the box into the resevoir one too many times and it was busted, 300 dollar meter.

I currently use the BlueLab TDS truncheon, It's awesome, only 140 bucks... It's like a lightsaber for reading the ppm/ec... It's large, large enough to stir up the resevoir really well, it has an auto on/off, as soon as you put it in the water it give you a reading, if there is adjustment it recalibrates...

Only thing I'm not too fond of is it reqds in increments of 100 ppm, and flashes inbetween two numbers if its inbetween...

Say the ppm is 850, the lights would flash from 800 to 900 back and forth... If its 825, there'd be 2 flashes on 800 and one on 900...

Fairly easy to read, a whole lot easier than looking at a tiny LCD calculator screen.

Well I'll have to see how my money is looking, thats one reason I was looking at the hanna, but maybe I'll step it up to a better one for the longevity.

Any meter is better than none, and at 80 bucks having both pH and ppm, the hanna combo is the most affordable...

MrHowardMarks said:

Any meter is better than none, and at 80 bucks having both pH and ppm, the hanna combo is the most affordable...

Click to expand...

I paid a good bit more than that for my combo. 125 or so. But it works very well. I calibrate every couple of weeks. My probe is a year old. How would I know if it needed replacing?

The truncheon is cool tho

MHM, my plant is pretty much done. im gonna chop in a few more days. but the branch i pollenated doesnt look quite finished. i popped out a bean and it still looks a bit green. i have been flushing for 3 days, this flush wont hurt the seeds will it? and should i leave the lower half of the plant to ripen more? thanks man.

The Hanna combo pen is 80 bucks at my store, the box unit, with the seperate probes costs more...

The probe's electrode usually lasts 2-5 years... Depending on care and maintence. You'll know it's fucked up when it happens, either it won't give a reading at all and display an error message of some sort, or the reading will jump around all crazy like...



-Slickwillie-
When did you pollinate?

At the first sign of flowering or later on...?


You can cut everything off but the pollinated branch if you wish to flower it longer...

Flushing won't hurt them.

cool, thanks. i think it was about 5 wks ago. the male was a seedling and the female was a clone and they both got going about the same week. i seperated them and collected pollen, jizzed up a lower branch, and chilled. i popped another one out after my post and they look like a few more days will be okay. im gonna pollenate a branch on each of my new flower girls too so im stocked up.

now in order for my to call my new shit stabilized i need to back cross several times right? i know this is a bit out of my league but its fun!

Yep, you can cross the offspring with either the male or female again... Like mother-fucking, or father-fucking... Kinda gross but that's what inbreeding and backcrossing is... Or at least my understanding.

i thought you had to pick a male and female from the seed stock(pick the pheno you want of course), breed them, then start over. i also was under the impression there was a number of times you must do this for a strain to be considered "stable".

if i cross back with one of the original parents(mother for this convo) wont i be lowering the amount of genes being contributed from the father to 25% from 50%?

plus the father is long gone, i still have plenty of pollen though.

Yeah, exactly, but you can go either way, if you want it to be more like the father, you cross back with the father...

I think 2 backcrosses is considered stablized... I'm not too sure...

I, too, am new to the breeding game.

MrHowardMarks said:

Yeah, exactly, but you can go either way, if you want it to be more like the father, you cross back with the father...

I think 2 backcrosses is considered stablized... I'm not too sure...

I, too, am new to the breeding game.

Click to expand...

Back-crossing is used to get more traits from that side of the family like you said. So if the father has big buds and the mother has resin and you cross those and you get a plant that has small nugs with resin you would cross back with the father, if you got big buds with no resin you cross back with mom, and if you got small buds with no resin you would start over. I think it may helps stabilize the strain but they should be stable when you cross them. Most people get a few different fathers and a few different mothers cross them and then see which two peered up the best, then cross the two best from different parents but same strain and cross those to make the final strain. It takes forever and sometimes you end up mt handed but sometime you get a gift from the gods or yourself depending on how you see it.

peace and good luck

Yeah, that's what I thought...

Forget the proper name for genetic charts, but that's my basic understanding...

The ideal cross would be something that carries the best traits from both plants, but sometimes genes are dominant over others which lowers the chances that you'll get the traits you desire.

There's a 1/4 chance you'll see a recessive trait, and that might be hidden by another trait... Like a haze flavor might be recessive, and you're crossing it with skunk... On average 25% of the offspring will carry the haze taste, but it might be overpowered by the skunk...

It's a tricky process, I have the concept, but really have no idea what I'm doing, I'mm growing feminized seeds right not that I wanted to cross with super skunk... So, that's what I'm doing, as far as what I'm expecting, I have no idea, and hope to get something good.

Both of the strains I'm crossing have skunk lineage, so, I'm predicting a whole bunch of skunk variations.

Alright let's put the breeding discussion to rest.. I have some pics of itsy bitsy buds to look at...