Lm561c Strips & SunPlus 35 design/manufacture help

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Hello Ladies and gentleman

I'm looking into the best way to build a light with samsung strips with supplemental rows of sunplus 35 purple, green, red and blue.

I'm planning on using 24x 4ft C strips spaced 30mm apart creating a 4ft square. Now each 30mm gap I want to fill with purple mostly (as a noob looking at spectral charts) along with blue, red and green if that's what's good!

So how does one go about DIYing sunplus 5630 chips onto a PCB that will fit in my 30mm spacing? Which colours? Should each strip be just one colour so I can make some type of spectrum adjustments?

Also I'm wanting this whole board to be water cooled, so what type of PCB will give me the best heat transfer from 5630>PCB>aluminium cooling block? Will the Samsung strips transfer enough heat into the cooling block as well? Or does the PCB not transfer much towards the backside?

Thanks a million legends!
F-series strips are the latest, and most cost effective. IMO, there is no need for all the various colored ones - 4000K has a nice full spectrum. Maybe some supplemental deep red, that's really all you need to add.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
F-series strips are the latest, and most cost effective. IMO, there is no need for all the various colored ones - 4000K has a nice full spectrum. Maybe some supplemental deep red, that's really all you need to add.
Are these F series the most efficient, highest bin as well?
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Yeah, S6/A1 bin,
2ft. single row 72pcs(8s9p, 23v@1120mA, 168lm/w),
4ft. SR 144pcs(16s9p, 46v@1120mA),
2ft. double row 144pcs, (16s9p, 46v@1120mA),
4ft. DR 288pcs, (16s18p, 46v@2240mA, nearly like a really, really long QB288, LOL!)
I got my eye on those.... May just pick up a few of them at the end of the year...
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
I got my eye on those.... May just pick up a few of them at the end of the year...
Digikey has the LM531C S6 bin diodes for 13 cents each. I wonder how hard it would be to replace the diodes on my Acuity strips....
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Digikey has the LM531C S6 bin diodes for 13 cents each. I wonder how hard it would be to replace the diodes on my Acuity strips....
Hmm! With a heating gun maybe not that hard.
I've soldered mono's to PCB's even with kitchens oven and on the stove plate. You need only a 50-1300°C thermocouple to measure PCB temps and a pair of thin gloves. Have burned my fingertips more than a few times, Lol!

Really hope to see the first LM302b strips soon, they would be comparable to a LM561c S7 bin, which we hopefully getting to see this year also..
 

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kony brado

Well-Known Member
Hmm! With a heating gun maybe not that hard.
I've soldered mono's to PCB's even with kitchens oven and on the stove plate. You need only a 50-1300°C thermocouple to measure PCB temps and a pair of thin gloves. Have burned my fingertips more than a few times, Lol!

Really hope to see the first LM302b strips soon, they would be comparable to a LM561c S7 bin, which we hopefully getting to see this year also..
hi
is the lm302b is the same as in samsung calculator? the lm561c s6 A1 looks a bit more efficient than the 302b ay se(top bin at 3500k 80cri) did i get something wrong?
thank's
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Hmm! With a heating gun maybe not that hard.
I've soldered mono's to PCB's even with kitchens oven and on the stove plate. You need only a 50-1300°C thermocouple to measure PCB temps and a pair of thin gloves. Have burned my fingertips more than a few times, Lol!

Really hope to see the first LM302b strips soon, they would be comparable to a LM561c S7 bin, which we hopefully getting to see this year also..
LM301B is the newest efficiency king., not 302B.
 

kony brado

Well-Known Member
302B is the older ones, 301B is the newer ones that just came out.
nice,thanks
Look like they have too bin .Lower one(sj)(35 lumen) is between s5 and s6 lm561c.the higher (sk 37 lumen)one is 3%~ more light than the lm561c s6 .Nice bump 194~ lumen to 199~ lumen at test current same voltage ( i check only 3500k a1 bin in both diodes) . Slowly, the efficiency race is moving on.
than'ks
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
nice,thanks
Look like they have too bin .Lower one(sj)(35 lumen) is between s5 and s6 lm561c.the higher (sk 37 lumen)one is 3%~ more light than the lm561c s6 .Nice bump 194~ lumen to 199~ lumen at test current same voltage ( i check only 3500k a1 bin in both diodes) . Slowly, the efficiency race is moving on.
than'ks
Interestingly enough, I just came across these.
 

GrowLightResearch

Well-Known Member
I've soldered mono's to PCB's even with kitchens oven and on the stove plate.
It easy with just a kitchen oven. Crank it up to 500° F. Turn it off. Put in the PCB for about 90 seconds.

I had two Zevatech Placemat 740 pick and place robots.

I had a five zone convection over with ceramic heaters. The conveyor belt looked like 6 piano wires.

This photo was taken March 4, 2016 at 1:28 am. It was the last time I saw the house. Drove the moving van away and left everything in this photo behind. The convection oven is up front. Directly behind is one o the Placemat 740's. the other one is back on the left. I made a deal with the buyer that I could leave anything I did not want behind. Also left a ton of stuff inside the house and attic. Including an OK Industries manual pick and place, and a rework station.

garageLastMove.jpg


roomSMT3.jpg
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
F-series strips are the latest, and most cost effective. IMO, there is no need for all the various colored ones - 4000K has a nice full spectrum. Maybe some supplemental deep red, that's really all you need to add.
Yeah ... Mid day sun color ...thinking a 3000/4000
 

GrowLightResearch

Well-Known Member
F-series strips are the latest, and most cost effective.
The Bridgelux Gen 2 seem to edge out the F-Series in lm/W and beat them hands down in cost.

Samsung SI-B8UZ91B20WW typical lumens per watt = 171 lm/W $26.51 (single row)

BXEB-L1120Z-35E4000-C-B3 typical lumens per watt = 175 lm/W $14.06
 

GrowLightResearch

Well-Known Member
You cannot beat the cost of a Bridgelux Gen 2 even if you manufacture your own.
All I want is a 22" strip with 21 deep red LEDs to compliment the Gen 2 boards.


Also I'm wanting this whole board to be water cooled, so what type of PCB will give me the best heat transfer from
I have some Gerber files for the 12" strips at the bottom of this post.
Free, I am not a commercial entity. I do not sell anything. I do consulting and I do not need any more clients. I have 20 years experience with my own telecom manufacturing business.

This12" strip was for an intra-canopy project.

22" is the most economical size. The most common PCB panel is 16 x 22. I can put up to 45 strips per panel. Less would be easier to separate the boards.

But at the same time I wanted to run some thermal tests with water cooling.



Traditional cooling is to make thermal vias through the PCB and mount the heatsink on the back side.
Thermal vias were useless.

Thermal pad for a Luxeon Rebel with thermal vias.

ledVias.jpg


Because the thermal pad is on the component side I figured it would be best to mount a heatsink on the same side of the PCB as the thermal pad.



Very effective. The temperature of the thermal pad was very close to the temperature of the water.

The copper pipe also doubles as the frame to the fixture.

This shows the thermal path. It is an all copper path from the thermal pad of the LED to a 1/2" water pipe.
(Hand soldered)

copperPipePCB.jpg


I spent months running various thermal experiments. The CoBs here were only heat generators to measure heat flux. Thermal dynamics is complex. You can not calculate heat transfer very accurately. You must try it. Cost for the heatsink, copper bar and pipe is about $3.00 per foot.

At the bottom I tried to mount the strip to a copper bar, bent the ends to the curve of the pipe and connected the bar over the top of the pipe. Did not work well enough.

August14 074.jpg


This layout is for Cree XP and Luxeon Rebel. 32 LEDs powered two strips of 16 LEDs. Forward voltage for blue and white ≈45v to be powered by a 48v or 54v driver. OSRAM Olson SSL can be mounted as well. Each strip is 0.7" wide. I have a new layout that is 0.35" wide Cut the price in half.

The new ones, if I proceed, will be 22" long. 4 strings per strip. I have the layout for a 16x22 PCB panel. Some are strings of 16 and some are strings of 21v. So the forward voltages of the white and blues will match the reds. White, today, you cannot beat the Bridgelux Gen 2. I could not manufacture a 44" strip for $14.

This is my new layout for Cree XP and OSRAM Olson SSL 150.

To get the width down to 0.35" with multiple strings was challenging.
Until I cam up with the idea to use four different footprints, one for each string.
The routing became very simple. I added vias to each pad at different levels for each string.
The "big" black holes are the screw holes for a little 4-40 or 3 mm machine screw.

If I could find a reasonably priced deep red to complement the Bridelux Gen 2, this project would not exist.
I could not find a deep red mid-power (≈ 0.2-0.3w) LED. Buying by the reel, deep red LEDs are $1-$2. At 21 LEDs per 22" string I'm looking at about $30 parts cost. Plus assembly.

stripFootprints.jpg

WP_20160801_002.jpg
 
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wietefras

Well-Known Member
The Bridgelux Gen 2 seem to edge out the F-Series in lm/W and beat them hands down in cost.

Samsung SI-B8UZ91B20WW typical lumens per watt = 171 lm/W $26.51 (single row)

BXEB-L1120Z-35E4000-C-B3 typical lumens per watt = 175 lm/W $14.06
How about comparing to an actually existing 4000K Samsung ledstrip?
Samsung SI-B8T261560WW (56cm) 175lm/W $14.48 (or $13.86 when you buy 10+)
Samsung SI-B8T521B20WW (112cm) 175lm/W $26.51 ($23.42 10+)
 
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