lm561c s6 driver amp issue.

Budies 101

Well-Known Member
Yes, did u find them on amazon?
Do u have a Link?
What price per board?

@MMJ Dreaming 99 might interested in 300W boards,
maybe 2 Boards 600W would be equal to 1000W HPS.
I have not looked into selling the boards as I have not even tested them to make sure they won't burn up or something crazy. If it all worked out and I were to sell boards I'd only do it if I had like 20 or more to place for an order for and I would think around .60 cents a watt with calling it a 300watt board. No tests done, but looking at the samsung calculator I see its about 170 lm/w at 300watts. I also prolly wouldn't cover shipping =)

Im in this to make boards for myself, if others want then mainly I don't want to lose $. I have received plenty of help here to not feel like I need to try and make a buck. That being said I have spent almost 3k $ getting to this point haha.
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
Your Vf is 163v and your total amp draw is 2400mA.
If you are using a 1750 driver you are getting 145mA per diode a little low but ok.
I am not sure what the Vf is of the driver you are using but you can divide the Vf for your board by the Vf max for the driver. That percentage is the amount of amps driven by the load of Vf.
It sounds to me you have a low Vf relative to your driver.
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
For amps you would want to use a320h-C2100B driver that will give you the amps you desire driving the 12 rows at 175mA. However the Vf does not match you have 163Vf and the driver delivers 152Vf 9v too low. That is your issue. Reduce your Vf by 9v or 3 diodes per string and you will have a 300w board that is killer.
So change your geometry to 52 diodes for a Vf of 152Vf with twelve rows 52S12P will work best for the HlLG-320H- C2100B driver.
Hope this helps
 

kony brado

Well-Known Member
For amps you would want to use a320h-C2100B driver that will give you the amps you desire driving the 12 rows at 175mA. However the Vf does not match you have 163Vf and the driver delivers 152Vf 9v too low. That is your issue. Reduce your Vf by 9v or 3 diodes per string and you will have a 300w board that is killer.
So change your geometry to 52 diodes for a Vf of 152Vf with twelve rows 52S12P will work best for the HlLG-320H- C2100B driver.
Hope this helps
i on the other hand wold keep it at 1.75 or even less for efficiency just add more diodes to the string to fill the driver voltage (183 v). when you run them at 2.1 amps there175ma per diode and if you use the A version meanwell that put more amps(2.369) your diodes are 0.197A which is very very close to the 0.2A max current. personally i think 0.150 is high,but hay,i run my diodes at 0.0583 so im all abut efficiency no meter the cost:bigjoint::bigjoint::bigjoint:
i totally agree abut filling up the voltage on the driver (i try to have 5-7v less then max voltage)
thank's:peace::peace::peace:
 

Budies 101

Well-Known Member
i on the other hand wold keep it at 1.75 or even less for efficiency just add more diodes to the string to fill the driver voltage (183 v). when you run them at 2.1 amps there175ma per diode and if you use the A version meanwell that put more amps(2.369) your diodes are 0.197A which is very very close to the 0.2A max current. personally i think 0.150 is high,but hay,i run my diodes at 0.0583 so im all abut efficiency no meter the cost:bigjoint::bigjoint::bigjoint:
i totally agree abut filling up the voltage on the driver (i try to have 5-7v less then max voltage)
thank's:peace::peace::peace:

Well if the PCB draw is 1.75 maxed and I get over 326 watts then I would be about about 1.6mA at 300 like what the calculator suggests I might be at. I wanted the board to be efficient because saving on a few chips only amounts to like 3-4$ saved at best.

The issue with adding more chips is the board would be like 44 or slightly more inches and I feel like you would lose too much light to nothing as canopy is only 48 inches. would make your edge par reading look $$ =)
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
If you are going to use a 1750 driver to get to 165mA per diode you should have 10 parallel strings and figure out by dividing by 2.9 to the Vf of the driver and you will hit your 300w target. To calculate your target amp draw per diode divide your driver amp by the target value giving you the necessary number of rows
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
Have you performed a circuit analysis?
What is the basis of your design?
Do you understand the dynamics of constant current circuit design?
There is a direct relationship with amps volts and watts.
I offered help but you behave as if you don't want it so I am moving on
Have a good day and good luck
 

Budies 101

Well-Known Member
Have you performed a circuit analysis?
What is the basis of your design?
Do you understand the dynamics of constant current circuit design?
There is a direct relationship with amps volts and watts.
I offered help but you behave as if you don't want it so I am moving on
Have a good day and good luck
1: To cover a 4x2 area per light extremely well
2: Not really

I listen to everyone, I have not dismissed anything you have said. These are the boards I have currently and it will be awhile before I make another. Of course I'd want my next boards o be better if that option is there.
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
I want to help you. Let me offer the following solution to save you time and money. I feel bad about your expense already.
I calculated the following for you:
going with a 320H-C1750B driver you need 183Vf to get to the 300 plus watts you want. So...
Let's try another formula 63s11p
Analysis:
1 - .63 diodes equals 182.7v close to the 183 max, excellent to gain efficiency from driver.
2 - 11 parallel strings = 2200mA. 2200/1750 is 0.795 or 80% of 200mA which is 159mA excellent drive current.
recommendations:
63 diodes in 11 rows will yield 693 diodes at or near 200lm/w or 138,600lm/w not bad to cover your 2x4 area. BTW, I use 300w of similar diodes to cover a 2x4 area. you are going to grow beast plants.

So all you have to do is modify your original layout with some minor changes and you will get a 300 watt monster guaranteed.
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
@VegasWinner, Why would he want to change anything? Let alone a complete redesign?

Besides, in your calculations you got the voltage wrong. Voltage changes with drive current. Which means you end up with over voltage so you'd need to reduce to strings of 61.

And you are way off with your 200lm/W.

Your recommendation results in a 330W 167lm/W system instead of the 300W 170lm/W system which he has now. If you reduce to strings of 61 at least it would fit with the driver and pull 320W, but it would still be only 167lm/W.

Also, why do you use such a weird calculation to calculate 1750/11=159mA?
 

Budies 101

Well-Known Member
I want to help you. Let me offer the following solution to save you time and money. I feel bad about your expense already.
I calculated the following for you:
going with a 320H-C1750B driver you need 183Vf to get to the 300 plus watts you want. So...
Let's try another formula 63s11p
Analysis:
1 - .63 diodes equals 182.7v close to the 183 max, excellent to gain efficiency from driver.
2 - 11 parallel strings = 2200mA. 2200/1750 is 0.795 or 80% of 200mA which is 159mA excellent drive current.
recommendations:
63 diodes in 11 rows will yield 693 diodes at or near 200lm/w or 138,600lm/w not bad to cover your 2x4 area. BTW, I use 300w of similar diodes to cover a 2x4 area. you are going to grow beast plants.

So all you have to do is modify your original layout with some minor changes and you will get a 300 watt monster guaranteed.

Ok, in the future when if I build out more PCB's I'll refer back to here and see if I can make this a better light.

Currently I have 2 of the lights built and both lights are over King Louis xiii and doing great. I will slowly bring them up to 300watts and make sure they can handle it. At 240watts they are warm but not bad at all. IMG_20170913_134421641.jpg

I love the way plants look under LED.
 
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