Light green new growth...

danjac82

Well-Known Member
how’s everyone doing today? Hope all is well. This grow I’m currently on is some what of an experiment, I’m testing heat tolerance on these spare Nirvana Blue Mystic Autos. I live in the desert in California and I’m growing in a 3x3 in my garage. I’m growing organic, amended soil: Equal parts organic potting soil/ coco/ worm castings/ perlite. Per cubic feet: 1 1/2 cups Dr Earth all purpose 3-3-3/ 1 cup dr earth kelp meal and 4 cups azomite. Did not use peat moss, so no lime. I only cooked this for about three weeks due to dr earth product being on the milder side. I’m day 25 from seed.

Problem:

This mix is a little on the hot side for these autos cause I’m seeing some nute burn but I’m not as concerned with that cause I feel they’ll pull through that due to water only regiment. Notice the light green new growth with the one on the right...the other two are not showing this and they are amended the same. Should I be concerned? Is it a weird pheno? Why this plant and not the other two?

Thoughts

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They look good. Not a deficiency but perhaps a slight overwater. Sometimes leaves just come out lighter yellow when a plant is growing fast. They will darken up as they enlarge.
 

danjac82

Well-Known Member
Yep, did light foliage of chelates iron it practically cleared in a days time. Thanks for the advice bro.
The iron didn’t fix the problem because you were most definitely not iron deficienct in the first place. The leaves darkened as they came out more and enlarged. Happens quick
 

Merlin1147

Well-Known Member
i cal bullshit. Young seedling dont see deficiencies first week and a half to two weeks in just Promix which has no nutrients. you don’t sprout up with deficiencies.
Whatever. Call it what you want, but you’re wrong. This seed had a predisposition toward iron deficiency genetically which it exhibited from day one. It continued throughout the growth cycle.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
whenever I ran with lots of wood in the mix, plants would yellow pretty fast.
Iron deficiency can easily be seen in the form of light coloured or white veins.
I have never seen it as a problem in such small plants.

The only time you should be obsessive about iron is in flower, as it will not only affect THC count but a lack of iron will also signal to the plant to mature faster, losing out on yield.

What I would do is kelp foliar every10 days, and regular compost tea foliar every 3 days until the plant greens up.
I'd also take that whole plant out of its bag or pot when it is dry enough to come in one piece, knock off as much of that wood and shit and pant in ordinary topsoil or potting soil, with something in to keep it fluffy.
 

Obepawn

Well-Known Member
Well, no matter what problem was, I appreciate everyone’s contribution to this post. I’ve learned some valuable lessons.
 

Kushash

Well-Known Member
Plants do all sorts of weird shit sometimes. I've had ones with 3 nodes and 4 nodes at each junction and tho you'd think that that would increase your yields by 50 or 100% respectively but sadly it doesn't. :( They end up looking like any other plant and yield the same. I've had four reverse hermies where female flowers appear on a male.

I was reading up on how to select for breeding to get the best stable variety of the strain you were working on. The guy was quite insistent that you shouldn't discard the ones that are as big and healthy growing as others. Claimed they often had other qualities that wouldn't be apparent until they'd been grown out and tested. I've been pollen chucking for many years and was guilty of crossing none but the best and he also said that that would eventually lead to the degradation of the line. Can't recall who it was but at the time I knew and he was a well known breeder.

I'm now getting into crossing and developing my own favorite crosses to include CBD and making fem seeds. Got to keep it interesting.



Like @Herb & Suds said above chopping roots is good for growth and too many think the opposite. I start my seeds in little 9-hole seed starter pots full of ProMix HP that I've run through a 1mm mesh screen, (same as window screen). Before planting I shake them around in a pill jar lined with 150 grit sandpaper for 2 full minutes to scarify the surface of the seeds and let water in easier. Once they have 2 sets of true leaves I repot to something bigger that's usually a 3" square pot then a 2L tobacco can if a known fem or 1L if a regular because once they have 6 or 7 nodes I'll top above the 4th node and put the cutting in a glass of water or dip in rooting gel and plant in the same pots and mix I use for the seeds to clone it. 12/12 light right away and usually within 10 days they show sex.

Having a little drinky-poo tonight and got off on a tangent. Seems the authorities are right. Booze and pot messes you up more than just one at a time. Especially on an empty stomach. View attachment 4334503

Anyway, at each repotting from the first I saw the bottom off the rootball to get rid of any long roots and shave down the sides if there are any wrapping around the ball. Like topping a plant when you take off the ends of the roots they branch out so by the time they are in their final pots you barely see any thick roots. From top to bottom it's filled with fine feeder roots that are way more efficient than long fat roots.

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I swear I have no idea about what transplant shock is. I've never had any plants do anything weird after repotting. They may seem a little dormant for a day or two but always perk right up and within a few days to a week I see roots poking out the drain holes. The centers of the new growth usually shows that lime green you were worrying about too. That tells me they are real happy in their new home.

There's all sorts of good info in the following link but like the Bible use them as a basis for what you do and don't take them as gospel.

I found a great spot to download FREE POT BOOKS . I downloaded a grow bible first and got lots more. Books look great and complete like the real ones I have here. No web site but just a page of links. Just right click on what you want and then "Save Link As" to download so they don't open first as many are 50+ megs. They got lots. Enjoy.

:peace:
I untangle the roots at the bottom of the pot and if they don't come loose I cut the bottom 1/2" off the way you did.
On the sides I make 4 vertical cuts a 1/4" deep rather than shave the side off, I will try it your way when the opportunity arises.
Plants never miss a beat and roots develop fast.
Worst case my plants droop for a few hours.

Mistakes that I think cause problems at transplant for new growers.

Not properly hydrating soil before putting the soil in a pot.
Many think they can hydrate a soil after putting it in a pot.
If the soil is hydrophobic there is little chance they will get the soil hydrated when it's in the pot and often the soil will remain hydrophobic long after sometimes killing the plant.

Another cause IMO would be taking soil from a different environment like a garage or somewhere where the temperature of the soil is different from the plants soil and not allowing it to adjust before transplanting.

Soil might be an issue I suppose if the new one is extremely hot but I make my own soil and it is never hot. I use it at each stage, solo cup, 1 gallon, 5 gallon. My thing is to start with a less hot soil than most growers and add amendments a little sooner. With that my plants aren't experiencing the soil issues that others might face when going from a seedling mix to a hotter mix.
 

danjac82

Well-Known Member
I untangle the roots at the bottom of the pot and if they don't come loose I cut the bottom 1/2" off the way you did.
On the sides I make 4 vertical cuts a 1/4" deep rather than shave the side off, I will try it your way when the opportunity arises.
Plants never miss a beat and roots develop fast.
Worst case my plants droop for a few hours.

Mistakes that I think cause problems at transplant for new growers.

Not properly hydrating soil before putting the soil in a pot.
Many think they can hydrate a soil after putting it in a pot.
If the soil is hydrophobic there is little chance they will get the soil hydrated when it's in the pot and often the soil will remain hydrophobic long after sometimes killing the plant.

Another cause IMO would be taking soil from a different environment like a garage or somewhere where the temperature of the soil is different from the plants soil and not allowing it to adjust before transplanting.

Soil might be an issue I suppose if the new one is extremely hot but I make my own soil and it is never hot. I use it at each stage, solo cup, 1 gallon, 5 gallon. My thing is to start with a less hot soil than most growers and add amendments a little sooner. With that my plants aren't experiencing the soil issues that others might face when going from a seedling mix to a hotter mix.
I used to wet the soil I transplant into but don’t even bother anymore. I pull it from old pot dry and put in into new pot of dry dirt. Water it. Plants leaves are praying shortly after every time.
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
i love super roots air pots because the pot can be unwrapped from around the plant for transplants . some people just put them right into the next pots without unpotting and the roots grow through the holes
 

Obepawn

Well-Known Member
I untangle the roots at the bottom of the pot and if they don't come loose I cut the bottom 1/2" off the way you did.
On the sides I make 4 vertical cuts a 1/4" deep rather than shave the side off, I will try it your way when the opportunity arises.
Plants never miss a beat and roots develop fast.
Worst case my plants droop for a few hours.

Mistakes that I think cause problems at transplant for new growers.

Not properly hydrating soil before putting the soil in a pot.
Many think they can hydrate a soil after putting it in a pot.
If the soil is hydrophobic there is little chance they will get the soil hydrated when it's in the pot and often the soil will remain hydrophobic long after sometimes killing the plant.

Another cause IMO would be taking soil from a different environment like a garage or somewhere where the temperature of the soil is different from the plants soil and not allowing it to adjust before transplanting.

Soil might be an issue I suppose if the new one is extremely hot but I make my own soil and it is never hot. I use it at each stage, solo cup, 1 gallon, 5 gallon. My thing is to start with a less hot soil than most growers and add amendments a little sooner. With that my plants aren't experiencing the soil issues that others might face when going from a seedling mix to a hotter mix.
What’s your soil mix?
 

Kushash

Well-Known Member
What’s your soil mix?
This link will take you to the details of the mix.
Please don't comment on that page it is for player posts only.
My mix changes each time, plants are very happy in it.
#223 <<< Click the post # and it should take you to the post.
 
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