Light distance at professional facilities

Bubblegum31

Bubblegum31

Well-Known Member
RM3 said:
That's a Hybrid, I mean a 100% Sativa Land Race ?

you should try it sometime, it's fun
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No not really, pure sativa give me headache also the lemon haze give me a headache. I dont know why sativas do this to me!

However, I like to add alittle lemon haze to my joints just for the taste.
 
A

Arcadio

Member
Bubblegum31 said:
Can you see it?
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Yeah I see it. Your seedlings look like they are getting the right amount of light and it looks like it is MH light which is good for minimizing stretch.
I must say they don't really look that stretchy. Maybe just a lot of stretch from the ground to the first node but it looks pretty normal. You'll probably still have very tight node spacing from there up.

Another factor that influences stretch is your day and night temperature swings. If you can keep your night temps close to your day temps then you will further minimize stretch.
 
Jimdamick

Jimdamick

Well-Known Member
Arcadio said:
Yeah if you just have the light and thermometer it would be over 100 degrees. But if you have good airflow under the bulb as well as a powerful fan pointed at the bulb, AND a powerful A/C for the space then you see what happens then is you gain a certain amount of temperature control and trust me you can definitely keep a canopy below 80 degrees at 12 inches from a 1000W HPS. If you can't it's because your equipment can't not because it's impossible. It is definitely possible and I definitely don't want that picture. Temps are measured using several thermometers that hang at canopy level as well as an infrared thermometer to measure the leaves directly. You may be interested to know that the AC doesn't even work very hard to achieve 80F. Using the right equipment in the right way can do amazing things to control an environment.

Loss of lumens negligible? The inversed squared relationship between light intensity and distance from source shows that from 2 feet to 12 inches gives you a 400% increase in lux (lumens/m2) at canopy level. The loss of lumens is far from negligible you lose a lot of light by moving up the lamp.

Regarding the light spread, I said before to forget about the need to sacrifice light intensity for coverage (spread) and to just consider the phase where the plants aren't big enough to worry about that such as early to mid veg.

As far as cfl's go sure I've seen some good grows using just CFL's and I've seen some outstading grows using HID lighting. Not worth comparing those. I doubt than any professional setups (that are interested in producing the best possible quality) use cfl's. You know those laboratory style setups you see that produce top quality, medical grade, highest resin content type stuff, they DO NOT use cfl's. I'll bet anything that the best bud around is always from HID lighting and possibly LED's but I've never tried great stuff from LED's so I don't know if the hype is really true about the latest LED tech. And yeah I know good even great stuff can come out of CFL's but when you're talking about the best, there is a definite difference in the growth vigor and style all through veg and flower and the final results when comparing HID to CFL.

If the light intensity was so negligible then everyone would be using 250W HID's and saving tons of money on equipment and electricity. But it's not the case, assuming everything else is in spec it's a well known fact that a 1000W will not only cover a far larger area but will also produce larger, thicker and denser flowers than a 400W for example. Same can be said when comparing a 600W to a 400W. When talking about flowering the quality difference is not huge between different wattages of HPS because the light spectrum is very similar. But there's a big difference between HPS technology and CFL when it comes to growing fruiting crops. HPS lamps are actually engineered for fruit/flower development. The types of processes it uses to create light are much more energetic and more akin to the sun than a CFL. CFL's are best for growing non-fruiting crops which do well when shaded from the sun. Crops that need direct sunlight benefit greatly from the type of light given off by HID (high intensity discharge) lighting.
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Well written piece, and pretty much what you wrote is indisputable, but as far as the average guy having that excellent ac and/or air flow, that is a rare case in my opinion. I just have never seen anyone place a 1000 watt HID fixture 12" above canopy without problems
 
Bubblegum31

Bubblegum31

Well-Known Member
Well am back!!

I have to admit that you get pretty good results haven in mind the system you runs!

Now I have some concerns RM and would like to know how does this works for you!

1-How can you grow with no intake and exhust? How you provide co2?! Or do you provide co2 and I just didnt notice?

2- regarding changing the veg and flower timming cycle I have read about it alot but I never try it my self

For sure you have been also doing the normal timming for flower and veg before

How changing the light cycle to this methood benfits you? Have you got bud increase vs the normal 12/12
Or just save in electricity and the results are the same?

Now back to our subject I still hold my position, that the bud locations that gets the most light is the ones who growes and give heavy buds.

I have seen guys providing down light and I seen the progress of the buds that got down light

Also when you cut the upper buds the down buds get fat bcz of the light exposure.

So ill hold my position still when it comes to distance! Sorry!

Still friends :)?
 
RM3

RM3

Well-Known Member
Bubblegum31 said:
Well am back!!

I have to admit that you get pretty good results haven in mind the system you runs!

Now I have some concerns RM and would like to know how does this works for you!

1-How can you grow with no intake and exhust? How you provide co2?! Or do you provide co2 and I just didnt notice?

2- regarding changing the veg and flower timming cycle I have read about it alot but I never try it my self

For sure you have been also doing the normal timming for flower and veg before

How changing the light cycle to this methood benfits you? Have you got bud increase vs the normal 12/12
Or just save in electricity and the results are the same?

Now back to our subject I still hold my position, that the bud locations that gets the most light is the ones who growes and give heavy buds.

I have seen guys providing down light and I seen the progress of the buds that got down light

Also when you cut the upper buds the down buds get fat bcz of the light exposure.

So ill hold my position still when it comes to distance! Sorry!

Still friends :)?
Click to expand...
some things are a secret 8)
 
Bubblegum31

Bubblegum31

Well-Known Member
Arcadio said:
Yeah I see it. Your seedlings look like they are getting the right amount of light and it looks like it is MH light which is good for minimizing stretch.
I must say they don't really look that stretchy. Maybe just a lot of stretch from the ground to the first node but it looks pretty normal. You'll probably still have very tight node spacing from there up.

Another factor that influences stretch is your day and night temperature swings. If you can keep your night temps close to your day temps then you will further minimize stretch.
Click to expand...
All the lamps in those pictures are MH

I use purely 6500k for veg then MH lumated as well 4200k for the stretch then hps 2000k for the rest 6 /7 weeks of flower depends on when they will stop stretching..

Works for me.

I believe those seedlings are in the wnd eadge of the 400w

Its 5x3 secret garden

I have north star reflector of the top of thw cooltube which increase the coverge by roughly 1 foot

4x3 instead of the 3x3

So it covers good 120xm by 90cm the rest is dead zone for me I have my veggies, fruits and fan and humidifier!
 
Bubblegum31

Bubblegum31

Well-Known Member
I mean those

1-How can you grow with no intake and exhust? How you provide co2?! Or do you provide co2 and I just didnt notice?

2- regarding changing the veg and flower timming cycle I have read about it alot but I never try it my self

For sure you have been also doing the normal timming for flower and veg before

How changing the light cycle to thismethood benfits you? Have you got budincrease vs the normal 12/12
Or just save in electricity and the results are the same?

Not what you used so they start prouducing tric
 
RM3

RM3

Well-Known Member
Bubblegum31 said:
1-How can you grow with no intake and exhust? How you provide co2?! Or do you provide co2 and I just didnt notice?
Click to expand...
IMO the worst thing you can do, my garden is wide open, there is plenty of CO2

Bubblegum31 said:
How changing the light cycle to thismethood benfits you? Have you got budincrease vs the normal 12/12
Click to expand...
makes the plants finish faster, brings out recessive traits

Bubblegum31 said:
Not what you used so they start prouducing tric
Click to expand...
sulfur
 
Bubblegum31

Bubblegum31

Well-Known Member
RM3 said:
IMO the worst thing you can do, my garden is wide open, there is plenty of CO2

I dont care if it finnish faster as am on a 9 weeks schedule but what interestes me is the yield?

Honest answer? Increase. Decrease or the same?

makes the plants finish faster, brings out recessive traits


sulfur

How would I use that?! And when?!
Click to expand...
 
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