Leaves turning light green/yellow from middle of canopy (pics)

Thanks for the pest info, Bud.

Dr. Who said:

That looks like you over did the P.
NO starting bloom foods till the 3rd week after the light change to 12/12.

yell me EXACTLY what you feed with for ALL of the grow!
Start with veg and include EVERYTHING you added!
Now do the same for bloom!

I'll bet you had a feeding problem! Could be coupled with the Root Aphid thing too.

SO then, just how did you decide it WAS Root Aphids?

I'm with ya bro! I'll help the best I can!

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They were tiny little white bugs and they jumped like fleas. There were smaller and larger versions of them but I think i saw some brown bugs too I'm not sure I have to keep looking.

The reason I thought it was Root Aphids was because i saw bugs in the coco and thats immediately what my mind jumped to. I didn't think there was anything else that was wingless and lived in the rootzone.

I started off the clones with dyna protekt+veg+calmag at around 200ppm gradually raising it to 800 (about 1tsp pro, 1tsp calmag, 1.5tsp grow) all the way to start flower. First day of flower i replaced veg with bloom. So it was protekt+bloom+calmag (1pro, 1calmag, 1.5 bloom=900ppm). Immediately for the next feeding i did protekt+foliage+calmag at 1, 1, 1.5 foliage = 930ppm. Because i saw new growths being a lot lighter than i was used to, but that could have been the lighting. The 930ppm I think is where I burned them a bit. For the next feeding i did protekt+bloom+foliage+calmag. Foliage was half of what bloom was. 1tsp protekt, 1tsp bloom, 0.5 tsp foliage, 0.5tsp calmag = 650ppm. I played around with that mix and bumped the calmag down to 0.25 tsp per gallon and raised the bloom up to 1.2tsp per gallon around the 3rd week of flower. Gradually increased feedings and removed calmag around 5th week of flower... 1.5 pro, 1.5 bloom, .75 foliage and zero calmag = 800ppm. Starting week Oct. 6th (about when I started this thread and spoke to you) i started feeding only protekt and foliage at 1.2 tsp protekt + 2tsp foliage = 750ppm.

I've been feeding that up until now. Looking back now its all backwards. Started with high P and K in the beginning of flower when i needed high N. And toward the end I gave high N and less P and K when i needed more of the P and K lol...

I started flushing yesterday. Same feeding schedule just 10ppm RO water. I'll probably flush for a week and harvest on Wednesday which will be the end of week 9.

What did you think about the pictures? Do the buds look dead to you? And thoughts on what I mentioned regarding the crustyness on the outside of the buds? Does it all look and sound normal?

Appreciate the help!!!

If your asking me best leave that to a soil guy, my soil is all done outdoors in big piles of compost mostly but you definitely have some issues, indoors it's all hydro and yup the first thing I look at is root health then go from there. As Doc says I typically don't add any bloom until at least 4 weeks in after switch to 12/12 and only half and half if I do add any, but I may try a few different things this run. Hope you get it sorted but your so close now that I doubt it will effect yield a huge amount. I'm still waiting for my outdoor to finish lol.

I found some more and took some more pics. I think I only have springtails. I got a pic of the white ones and found one brown one but couldn't get a pic. They are different kinds. The whites have a thorn coming out of their ass that helps them jump. The brown ones didn't, at least i didn't see it, but still jump. The brown one looked like this image from google.

Are root aphids easily visible with the naked eye? Are they extremely small, as small as springtails? Or are they like the size of an ant?

Also I think I found some white flies in my veg room. WHERE the hell are all these bugs coming from damnit!

Dr. Who said:

Yes on the pull the bloom - It's going to continue to progress. best to not give it more to make it do it faster.

Sadly MJ needs N in bloom more then it's given by many nutrient makers in "bloom" foods. They also tend to raise the P/K to damaging levels faster then it should. They feed the novice growers feeling that "more is better".....

For the first 2 weeks of plant growth after the time flip to bloom. The plant STILL requires the same N it got in "veg"! At week 4 the need does go down a little and more so at week 6. Many nutrient makers will "hide" higher N values in additives to use with overly high PK bloom foods to slow the yellow out that too much P WILL give the plant.

I like the idea of splitting the veg and bloom at week 3. It does the more P thing and does it gradually so it doesn't overpower the plant with it.

MJ does not "need" increased P/K to bloom! It does help with quality and yield, when done right and so the plant can actually use it and not over feed it!

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Dr. Who what are your thoughts on maxibloom 5-15-14? I plan on letting the plants eat off the soil up until flowering and then start a regiment of the maxibloom. So far it has been the cheapest granular fertilizer I have found. Id like to go organic but I hear its slow release, although I have looked into and even made some Lactobacillus that only lasted about a week oddly enough. Do you have any experience with lactobacillus? Im making my own fish fertilizer right now and am contemplating compost teas in between fertilizing Maxibloom to keep the soil "alive". Any suggestions on this nutrient program?

jensenbeach1 said:

Dr. Who what are your thoughts on maxibloom 5-15-14? I plan on letting the plants eat off the soil up until flowering and then start a regiment of the maxibloom. So far it has been the cheapest granular fertilizer I have found. Id like to go organic but I hear its slow release, although I have looked into and even made some Lactobacillus that only lasted about a week oddly enough. Do you have any experience with lactobacillus? Im making my own fish fertilizer right now and am contemplating compost teas in between fertilizing Maxibloom to keep the soil "alive". Any suggestions on this nutrient program?

Click to expand...

There are several here that use it (Maxi). Very religiously....For the life of me, I can't remember who right now. Pretty sure they're hydro...
I don't like the high P, yet the N might help hold back yellowing for awhile...
The soil is still alive with the use of synthetics. The bio heard kind of goes dormant to a point, becoming less active. There is some die off as they don't get feed, unless you add extra carbs....

Some years ago, I experimented with synthetics and regular use of AACT. It will increase nutrient up take by over 50% if you use it alternating days. Unless you have plenty of experience, I don't suggest you try that. Big reductions in nutrient are required. I might try bi-weekly and increase to weekly if it's working for you. Thing is, it tips over to "too much" kinda quick and you'll have to reduce nutrient use. It tends to increase P up take, so be very careful.. Make a simple AACT - EWC and Molasses only, maybe a bit of composted cow manure to broaden the fungal/Bac spectrum but, NO other additives that would bring up NPK value.

Lacto, I put some in a few times......Nothing "super" exciting. It works ok.......It was placed in the worm farms too. Have no idea if it's being carried over and reproducing in them....

Dr. Who said:

There are several here that use it (Maxi). Very religiously....For the life of me, I can't remember who right now. Pretty sure they're hydro...
I don't like the high P, yet the N might help hold back yellowing for awhile...
The soil is still alive with the use of synthetics. The bio heard kind of goes dormant to a point, becoming less active. There is some die off as they don't get feed, unless you add extra carbs....

Some years ago, I experimented with synthetics and regular use of AACT. It will increase nutrient up take by over 50% if you use it alternating days. Unless you have plenty of experience, I don't suggest you try that. Big reductions in nutrient are required. I might try bi-weekly and increase to weekly if it's working for you. Thing is, it tips over to "too much" kinda quick and you'll have to reduce nutrient use. It tends to increase P up take, so be very careful.. Make a simple AACT - EWC and Molasses only, maybe a bit of composted cow manure to broaden the fungal/Bac spectrum but, NO other additives that would bring up NPK value.

Lacto, I put some in a few times......Nothing "super" exciting. It works ok.......It was placed in the worm farms too. Have no idea if it's being carried over and reproducing in them....

Click to expand...

Awesome thanks for your detailed response. It jumped out ti me as a cheap fert source for granular as organics can get a little pricy. I had my first soil guy say stay away from teas and all that just add water and his organic top feed though i didnt buy it. We are going to try to get away with plants eating off soil until we notice deficiencys. Id much rather go lighter than heavier sich as the lucas fornula for indoors. It was between that or jacks professional hydro though the n p k was much higher in that and it would be lacking calcium all together. Ive been curious as to the whole debate or synthetics killing the soil. Most scholar articles say an incorporation of organic and none is the best so id like to take that approach use synthetics for quick fix and let nature do its work.

jensenbeach1 said:

Awesome thanks for your detailed response. It humped out ti me as a cheap fert source for granular as organics can get a little pricy. I had my first soil guy say stay away from teas and all that just add water and his organic top feed though i didnt buy it. We are going to try to get away with plants eating off soil until we notice deficiencys. Id much rather go lighter than heavier sich as the lucas fornula for indoors. It was between that or jacks professional hydro though the n p k was much higher in that and it would be lacking calcium all together. Ive been curious as to the whole debate or synthetics killing the soil. Most scholar articles say an incorporation of organic and none is the best so id like to take that approach use synthetics for quick fix and let nature do its work.

Click to expand...

I run mainly water only organic soils that I build my self. Just lately I have been experimenting with Botanicares KIND line. No nutrient use till bloom, so no need for the veg part (3 part system). Base - 30 days feeding soil for the up pots and 10 days in the final pot in veg to set roots, and into the bloom room and she gets her first daily feeding. Adjust N up or down as the plant requires.....

Water only plants may need at or near the end a bit of a boost. So I use my teas and I deliver Ksulfate supplements by tea also.

Dr. Who said:

There are several here that use it (Maxi). Very religiously....For the life of me, I can't remember who right now. Pretty sure they're hydro...
I don't like the high P, yet the N might help hold back yellowing for awhile...
The soil is still alive with the use of synthetics. The bio heard kind of goes dormant to a point, becoming less active. There is some die off as they don't get feed, unless you add extra carbs....

Some years ago, I experimented with synthetics and regular use of AACT. It will increase nutrient up take by over 50% if you use it alternating days. Unless you have plenty of experience, I don't suggest you try that. Big reductions in nutrient are required. I might try bi-weekly and increase to weekly if it's working for you. Thing is, it tips over to "too much" kinda quick and you'll have to reduce nutrient use. It tends to increase P up take, so be very careful.. Make a simple AACT - EWC and Molasses only, maybe a bit of composted cow manure to broaden the fungal/Bac spectrum but, NO other additives that would bring up NPK value.

Lacto, I put some in a few times......Nothing "super" exciting. It works ok.......It was placed in the worm farms too. Have no idea if it's being carried over and reproducing in them....

Click to expand...

I know the lacto works as far as odor neutralizer or my room would smell awful having bunch fish rotting in there lol. I hear its how bokashi composters work so efficiency with no smell also. Im still a little skeptic to its true effects but unless i have a control ill never know really. Too big of operation to experiment currently

Dr. Who said:

I run mainly water only organic soils that I build my self. Just lately I have been experimenting with Botanicares KIND line. No nutrient use till bloom, so no need for the veg part (3 part system). Base - 30 days feeding soil for the up pots and 10 days in the final pot in veg to set roots, and into the bloom room and she gets her first daily feeding. Adjust N up or down as the plant requires.....

Water only plants may need at or near the end a bit of a boost. So I use my teas and I deliver Ksulfate supplements by tea also.

Click to expand...

Great good to know, i was told by oaksterdam that you dont want the plant start yellowing into flower only at very end a littke they say if u let it gi toomuch ull have nasty yellow leaves on ur bud. Any thoughts on this? Just want to be prepared before they start flowering and i freak out lol.

Dr who, care to drop by my journal give me some tips/advice? Would be really appreciatedhttp://rollitup.org/t/first-outdoor-grow-2017.942918/page-2#post-13600634

jensenbeach1 said:

Great good to know, i was told by oaksterdam that you dont want the plant start yellowing into flower only at very end a littke they say if u let it gi toomuch ull have nasty yellow leaves on ur bud. Any thoughts on this? Just want to be prepared before they start flowering and i freak out lol.

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This true! That early yellowing is usually from the introduction of reduced N and High P "bloom" nutrients - way too early.

The charting on the vast majority of nutrient bottles is wrong. Flat out like a lizard drink'in.

They should not reduce N and Increase P for a cpl weeks. At the 3rd week after the flip - veg/bloom at 50:50 and full on Bloom at week 4. Well balanced nutrients for bloom - need no "real" P&K "boost"......

jensenbeach1 said:

Dr who, care to drop by my journal give me some tips/advice? Would be really appreciated http://rollitup.org/t/first-outdoor-grow-2017.942918/page-2#post-13600634

Click to expand...

Put a cpl of spaces between your last word and the web address to create a link. I like to simply give them their own line --

https://www.seedsherenow.com/breeders/home-grown-natural-wonders-seeds.html?limit=all

Then continue another line down.....Like this.

Hmm, is this link the Doc dropping strain hints? Suggesting a breeder?

Dr. Who said:

Put a cpl of spaces between your last word and the web address to create a link. I like to simply give them their own line --

https://www.seedsherenow.com/breeders/home-grown-natural-wonders-seeds.html?limit=all

Then continue another line down.....Like this.

Hmm, is this link the Doc dropping strain hints? Suggesting a breeder?

Click to expand...

Good little tip I like how structured it looks almost like youre turning in for an assignment haha. I tend to reply just waking up on phone stupid thumbs get in the way lol. Anyways heres the link

http://rollitup.org/t/first-outdoor-grow-2017.942918/page-3#post-13601896

Thanks for looking

Dr. Who said:

Put a cpl of spaces between your last word and the web address to create a link. I like to simply give them their own line --

https://www.seedsherenow.com/breeders/home-grown-natural-wonders-seeds.html?limit=all

Then continue another line down.....Like this.

Hmm, is this link the Doc dropping strain hints? Suggesting a breeder?

Click to expand...

Awesome which I had that before I got my seeds im currently working on acquiring clones. I understand it was for example purposes though.

jensenbeach1 said:

Awesome which I had that before I got my seeds im currently working on acquiring clones. I understand it was for example purposes though.

Click to expand...

Might as well kill 2 birds with one stone - Give a nice bean source and give advice....

Enjoy!