Leaf signs

medidedicated

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
1.4gal ffof transplanted 3 weeks ago from a cup. 5 weeks old. Watered every 4-5 days, now 6 but leaves look droopy by day 6, not sure if that is too long. Was watering later due to looking over fed and N toxic.

Now I have these burns on leaves and some fading that I ask if it is going to get worse, what is going on? It seems to be progressing.

I know how acting sooner is better, so just asking in case I should change something before it gets out of hand. I would leave it be if it was just a spot here and there.
 

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DancesWithWeeds

DancesWithWeeds

Well-Known Member
I still think it's N toxicity and maybe a little too much water. You'd be better off taking advice from someone else. Like I've said before, I kill everything I put in a pot.

About 2:00 I went out to check plants. One was praying for water. I ran the hose on it for 1/2 hour now it's happy. Mondays are watering days, but I'm moving it up. The hose is running lightly on each plant for a heavy watering. The temp here was 99F last time I looked.

Edit: Now 101F
 
medidedicated

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Phytoplankton said:
Looks like nitrogen tox to me too, coupled with some overwatering (puffy looking leaves, very dark green). Too much N can interfere with Ca uptake.
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I have another plant and both seem to like soil dry, been a while since I done dirt but wow I don’t get how roots can sit in such dry soil and look happier.

I was told over watering last time I asked about this plant so I will try letting it dry out more. I guess over watering means over feeding too? I don’t get the science behind it other than water breaking it down faster than needed, if that is even correct.
 
medidedicated

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
How does this plant look? Just curious, last time I was told to up pot and I did. 1 week solo cup, 4 weeks half gallon, transplanted to 1 gallon 20 days ago. Fed every 3rd day, last feed or two was 4 days apart, now trying to go 5 days because it looks healthier with dryback. It is an auto gg#4 from seed.

edit: The plant perked before/after last watering so figured the dry back interval was better than before.

The half gallon needed watering every day or every other day before I transplanted. 4 main cola training, not much leaves to keep so the slightest marks have me asking if it looks alright or what you would suggest. It is a space light grow so it will not get a lot of light, cannot add more.
 

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medidedicated

medidedicated

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Here is the original plant 4 days later, took dead leaves off and allowing dry back to 5 or 6 days which wow the pot was lighter than it ever was last time before watering.

I am growing out the mutations so I can find the most normal node growth and keep it. I did that with the auto gg4 for faciated stem and working good so far, looks normal.
 

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medidedicated

medidedicated

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Trying to make use of the same thread, any comments on this? It is progressing but don’t know if it is from under watering or hungry for nutes or lock out. It was too dry on day 4 post watering today so I watered.

I just read that transplanting during switch that roots don’t grow as much if at all and wondering if I should top dress. Doesn’t seem like it is growing into the extra half gallon. I didn’t realize I asked yesterday already but it did progress.
 

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medidedicated

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Just read if leaf and stem is down, underwatering and if it is just the leaf it is overwatering. Not to let soil dryback too much that it should stay a certain way. To try watering with less and more often. The pot is heavy though. First two inches dry.
 
medidedicated

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Going to put in a hygrometer I been had but lazy to put in, I forget that lights go out on my 2x2 photoperiod and it has been getting 60F at night which is great for me but maybe too cold for plant.

Maybe also motabolism cycles, I had plants in coco droop like it was in shock right before lights out but usually before lights on, plants are perky. Not the other way around.
 
medidedicated

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Anyone know why the leaves that drooped heavily turned brown green and dried out crispy, needing to be removed soon? Was this from too much dryback? I started watering sooner again because first 2” dry on top of dirt.

First I was suggested over watering but now I have under watering issues I think. Just read soil shouldn’t dry back that hard after roots established.

My 1x1 plant still looks good watering every 4th day. 2x2 is showing signs of needing water after 3.
 

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ALPHA.GanjaGuy

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I find giving less more often is better than more less often in regards to solving the over/under watering issue. also make sure to water slowly to saturate the medium not just pour the water in, in one big pour

I used to wait until pots were lite or the start of droop sometimes 3 or 4 days in my setup in 3gallon pots.. now it's typically ever other day but where I may have been giving 1/3-1/2 gallon now it's around 2-4 cups (I still determine how much by how lite the pot is).. The issue with too much dryback is it causes ph problems from the soil drying out so much which can lead to lockout or nute burn.. basically keeping the soil moist but not wet is where the plants want to be normally. some will vary but in general.

more importantly, I have found you can't really put cannabis plants on a water schedule per se. like you can't just say I will water ever three days, some weeks it may need it in two, some it may not want it for five
 
medidedicated

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
ALPHA.GanjaGuy said:
I find giving less more often is better than more less often in regards to solving the over/under watering issue. also make sure to water slowly to saturate the medium not just pour the water in, in one big pour

I used to wait until pots were lite or the start of droop sometimes 3 or 4 days in my setup in 3gallon pots.. now it's typically ever other day but where I may have been giving 1/3-1/2 gallon now it's around 2-4 cups (I still determine how much by how lite the pot is).. The issue with too much dryback is it causes ph problems from the soil drying out so much which can lead to lockout or nute burn.. basically keeping the soil moist but not wet is where the plants want to be normally. some will vary but in general.
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Awesome! I was hoping for an answer. I did read that from more expirienced users so I decided to try applying that right away as I had to do something. Plant was dying. Maybe I misunderstood that you do the dryback and weighing of light pots after transplant until roots are established.

I will start doing that. Perhaps I should do that for the 1x1 plant too.

The 1x1 is stretching heavily, burn marks are slowing down, hoping the new feed style replenishes the media and leaves on both plants.
 
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ALPHA.GanjaGuy

Well-Known Member
You know it's a hole thing, as with most parts of growing you find info that is left to interpretation or conflicts other info, my favorites are; "keep your soil moist but not wet and never dry or damp" so it's like hmm what does that even mean.. and then "water when the pot is lite" but this is only relative to when they first checked the weight, as the plant grows the weight changes and most people think water until heavy as lead, dry until lite as a feather and that causes a ton of issues. not to mention how heavy something is will depend on the person lifting it

the reason I decided on my method of less more often is while I was looking around I kept seeing (and knew about) people using automatic drippers and things of that sort where they are giving a shot of water x times a day or constant drippers.

I started to think well they can't have real dryback in those setups like when you water and wait x days and they (drippers/auto) seem to have the best results, that's one reason so many use automated systems.. I didn't want the hassle of setting up a system so I thought, what if I water the plants less more often, at first I was thinking of watering daily but a cup or less or something like that but at that moment I had too much going to want to be doing that every day so I went with cutting my watering back nearly 50% but watering every other day or so. even if the pot was still not dried out but only if it felt liter than the day before
 
medidedicated

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
ALPHA.GanjaGuy said:
You know it's a hole thing, as with most parts of growing you find info that is left to interpretation or conflicts other info, my favorites are; "keep your soil moist but not wet and never dry or damp" so it's like hmm what does that even mean.. and then "water when the pot is lite" but this is only relative to when they first checked the weight, as the plant grows the weight changes and most people think water until heavy as lead, dry until lite as a feather and that causes a ton of issues. not to mention how heavy something is will depend on the person lifting it

the reason I decided on my method of less more often is while I was looking around I kept seeing (and knew about) people using automatic drippers and things of that sort where they are giving a shot of water x times a day or constant drippers.

I started to think well they can't have real dryback in those setups like when you water and wait x days and they (drippers/auto) seem to have the best results, that's one reason so many use automated systems.. I didn't want the hassle of setting up a system so I thought, what if I water the plants less more often, at first I was thinking of watering daily but a cup or less or something like that but at that moment I had too much going to want to be doing that every day so I went with cutting my watering back nearly 50% but watering every other day or so. even if the pot was still not dried out but only if it felt liter than the day before
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I am getting familiar quick, info on soil is scattered, anything you suggest reading; I would check it out. With coco I liked that you could just read dr mj coco and know most of what there is to know about coco and the rest is hands on and what works for you but everyones style is similar.

With dirt, I am starting to get the hang of it but am winging it, not studing anything. Is the first two inches of soil a good indicator of moisture deeper down? I grew in ffof before with a friend and everything stayed green but I didn’t do the watering but just went off how the first 2” are on surface. Used straight nutes here and there. Green house.
 
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ALPHA.GanjaGuy

Well-Known Member
medidedicated said:
anything you suggest reading

Is the first two inches of soil a good indicator of moisture deeper down?
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I haven't read all of it but this book comes highly recommended by many growers, especially soil and organic but the info is good regardless


I would stick a finger straight down so maybe a little more than 2", but imo go by that and weight feel and look of the plant, those soil moister probes are not terrible also but not all are accurate
 
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