how does my grow flow

Hot Diggity Sog

Well-Known Member
those pics are all you need to mix 5 gallons part A and B of concentrate

lets use the veg for example;

I do this for a friend its not difficult

looking at the pics I posted the veg mix is for 4000 gallons

fill 2 five gallon buckets up 1/2 way with hot water

label each bucket veg A and veg B

add calcium nitrate, magnesium nitrate, potassium nitrate and iron to bucket A
(I do it slowly over a few days allowing each to have time to dissolve before adding the next)

add the mono potassium phosphate, magnesium sulfate,, potassium sulfate, potassium chloride and the balance of the micro nutirents (not iron) to bucket B

so all my nitrates and the iron in bucket A and everything else in bucket B

after about 4 or 5 days of sitting and shaking buckets one time a day its ready

5mls of bucket A and 5mls of bucket B should yield about EC1.2

and the 5 gallon concentrate should make about 4000 gallons of solution
How long will this actually last (stay usable)?
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
Old post but you have professional greenhouse experience dont you satori? If u dont u sure do sound like it. What a pro. Nice thread.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Bump. Good read, I gotta get me up to speed on dosers. I didn't before because RDWC, but now I'm in soilless and this is making a great deal of sense.
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Bump. Good read, I gotta get me up to speed on dosers. I didn't before because RDWC, but now I'm in soilless and this is making a great deal of sense.
hello
back again sorry I was gone for a long while

no I have no pro green house experience... but I have read a lot and made many mistakes that taught me a good bit

the doser I use are advertised for chicken use ... theyre the least expensive and have worked well for years without service... the only down side would be the mixing ratio is fixed at 128:1 where as the high dollar dosers you can change the ratio
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
Trying to learn. Was wondering what book or books you recommend
HYDROPONICS
A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR SOILESS GROWER
BY
J. BENTON JONES JR.


it seems advanced and took me a long while to grasp it, but I eventually did

its strange to think back on how hard it was for me to figure it out and now it seems so basic to me
 
Last edited:

im4satori

Well-Known Member
I have considered options allowing N leaching in late flower

what I thought to do is mix 2 sets of stock solution (4 containers)
and just switching the doser tube over to the other stock container at week 4 or 5 or 6 or whatever

so the first set of two stock containers would feed the first part of the flower cycle and the second set of two stock container could feed the later part of the flower cycle to reduce N or leach N

but after years of doing it both ways (I started out in recirc) I find the benefits to adjusting the nutrient ratio to leach N is unnecessary and has little to no baring on the finish product
in my experience the only need to leach is if your feeding to high an EC... if your EC remains low and within range you wont need to leach

I also find... I can control or reduce N in the plant simply by allowing the ph to climb and stay between 6.2 and 6.5.. which naturally happens in the medium samples as you reduce watering late into flower

the reduction in watering frequency and shorter watering durations will cause the medium ph to rise a great deal
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
recently I have adjusted my watering schedule... I used to water 1 min an hour but this casues an EC climb within the medium because im not getting enough fluid thru the cube to rinse out the old

so now I set my solution ph to 5.5 I water 5 minutes every 4 hours and the medium ph stays good at 5.8 ish

Im currently feeding an EC or .08 and the medium samples are like 0.7 which is awesome
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
you can see from the pics the leaves are slightly torched or twisted... this was the result of a quick ph swing/change

I started with a new product Pekacid
and had to figure out how much to mix to get the ph correct...

the ph in the medium was running a bit high 6.5 causing zinc, Mn, and Fe to be locked out

I lowered the ph of the stock solution using sulfuric acid and gave them a foliar feed of peters s.t.e.m. 1/4 tsp per gallon

the yellowing at the top (micro def) corrected itself over night but I got a little bit of leaf curl
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
all these plants are satori f2 and only a few days into 12/12

satori x satori (made by me)

fan leaves are huuuuge

my first time growing the f2s

I took the lower branches for clones to sex them
 
Top