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VidiotRayM

Active Member
transplanted clones drooping isn't all that unusual....... usually you're going from low heat flouros to high heat HIDs.....and from water to nutrient....so it's a little shock......... you might want to move them back and let them grow more roots......or you might want to wait and see.......I'd imagine they'll bounce back, but no guarantees.........
 

jumboSWISHER

Well-Known Member
alright bro, thanks alot :) iv been taking the domes off for bout 15 mins like 3 times a day to mist the clones. but ill start doing that tomorrow. thanks a million =D
 

woodya

Member
This is my 1st grow, i am have approx 7x9 area. I may have to take it to 6x9

I plan on getting 10 white rhino and 10 nyc diesel clones and ordered 3 fem burmese kush, 5 fem blue cheese, and 10 top 44 skunk from the single seed centre, 5 days ago...

I will be using dwc 5gal bucketts, 6 inch netty pot, 6 inch long airstones, sure to grow 6in inserts. Sensi Pro 2 part veg and bloom, coniseur.

Thinking about using Liquid Karma too!?!?

I have 2 1k watt set up two XXXL 8" reflectors, with switchable ballast, and will place the lights 3 to 4 feet apart and am considering a light rail.

I am not for sure what bulbs i want to use.

I can get the Hortilux dual arc bulbs, which claims to be i need b/c its HPS and MH. for 169$ each

Or get 2 hortilux blues for veg 169$ each and the 2 super hps bulbs for bloom 89$ each.

Does anyone have any experience with the hortilux dual arc bulb?

would it be better to just get the blue and then the super hps?

Also how many plants should i put in my grow area, they will be 5 gal bucketts and i will veg and bloom all plants at the same time so no need for seperate room?

Should i use the long air stones or the circular air pads?

When i start the plants how much of the root should be in the nutes?

When the plants start to thrive how much should i fill the bucket full of nutes?

Please advise i am super excited and hope to be successfull !!! HAPPY NEW YEAR:bigjoint:
 
Hi, can you help me
im doing my second grow, first grow was horrible
my first grow was 2 lb from 130 plants
-10x10x7 grow tent
-(4) 4x4 tray - 36 plants in each tray
-emily pots
- had electricity problems with the lights short circuiting sometimes
- had pest problems
- fogged the tent atleast 3x , probably slowed the growth down
- 3 part gh
- purple max
- floralicious and kool bloom

This time i have taken the precaution of the pest problem, fixed the electricity problem, and cut down the number of plants in each tray to probably about 20 ? 25 ? . I used the microscope and it was ready. I started flowering 2 weeks into it and then counted 8 weeks starting when I saw the hairs in flowering stage. I was played the first time hard because I got these clones from some bozo. I asked for granddaddy and he ended up playing me with giving me sensi star or blue dream. My buds are fluffy, so I'm thinking it's not granddaddy because it should be dense instead of fluffy. I had alot of bullshit nugs, but i cut the lower branches off. Maybe it was too packed in there and the light couldnt focus on the plants. Alot of big colas though, but I didn't top it off because i didn't know about it or how to. I turned the lights to 12/12 when they were 8 inches? Should i veg until they're 1 1/2 ft then top it off ? The new strain that I'm doing is WW
How many plants should i put in each tray ?
Should i top of my plants when they're a 1 1/2 ft ?
I'm using 4(1000 watts) , each tray 1000 watt . Air cooled lights
I have fresh air coming in and out. I'm not running a co2 tank. Does the co2 really increase the yield?
With all the problems being fixed, would you know what be the yield of about 90 plants topped off>? (Strain is WW)
I'm going to put 20 in each tray = 80 !! and 10 in a 2x4 = total is going to be 5000 watts, 1000 watts each
Any help and advice from anyone would be very appreciated
Thanks again
 

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
Hi, I'm on my first grow, but I'm a little more advanced than the average newbie thanks to a mis-spent youth & a lot of reading. I'm having a bit of a bug problem though.

I had 3 infestations at the same time (I think). Spider Mites, Fungus Gnats, & White Flies. I sprayed heavily with Mite X, removed all the leaves with white dots on them, and released 3,000 lady bugs. I haven't seen any more leaf damage for over a week.

I've been flushing my girls one at a time & I noticed little white dots moving on the rims of the planters and 1 leaf with damage that was resting on the rim. I guess the lady bugs are keeping them off the plant for the most part but for some reason they're not getting rid of them 100%.

The leaf damage resembled a catepillar's damage and these little things are too fast to get a look at under a microscope. I tried getting one stuck to tape but no good. So I put a piece of tape sticky side down and used the sides of the planters to hang it last night and again no good. Did catch a couple of lady bugs though. lol

They're about the size of a pin head.

The question is, how many pests look white to the human eye? If these are gnats or flies then I think sand would be an easy fix. But if they're spider mites (I think spider mites look black to the naked eye) then I have a bigger fight on my hands.

I really need help. I'll be beginning transplants from 5 gal to 10 gal planters tonight and I plan to start flowering them next Fri. I need to get this handled quickly.

After the infestations I also put a panty hose filter over my intake. I plan to upgrade to thrip/mite screens as soon as I can afford to.

Thanks. +rep for any help as I always do.
 
I have a question on genetics , I have 2 mother plants (Hawaiian skunk, Kush hybrid) they are getting a little big so I am budding them . Now heres my question I took clone from each and plan to start 2 new mothers , Will the bud be less potent from clones from the new mothers ?
 

Attachments

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
I have a question on genetics , I have 2 mother plants (Hawaiian skunk, Kush hybrid) they are getting a little big so I am budding them . Now heres my question I took clone from each and plan to start 2 new mothers , Will the bud be less potent from clones from the new mothers ?
I'm a newbie so I can't say for absolutely sure. But I've been told that the genetics stay pretty much the same until you get 3 or more generations away from the original mom (clone of a clone of a clone). After 3 things start getting kinda funky.

Again I'm not 100% sure, but I hope that helps some.

BTW, you might want to give those moms a bigger container before you flower so their roots can stretch out.
 

afgan

Member
Hi, I'm on my first grow, but I'm a little more advanced than the average newbie thanks to a mis-spent youth & a lot of reading. I'm having a bit of a bug problem though.

I had 3 infestations at the same time (I think). Spider Mites, Fungus Gnats, & White Flies. I sprayed heavily with Mite X, removed all the leaves with white dots on them, and released 3,000 lady bugs. I haven't seen any more leaf damage for over a week.

I've been flushing my girls one at a time & I noticed little white dots moving on the rims of the planters and 1 leaf with damage that was resting on the rim. I guess the lady bugs are keeping them off the plant for the most part but for some reason they're not getting rid of them 100%.

The leaf damage resembled a catepillar's damage and these little things are too fast to get a look at under a microscope. I tried getting one stuck to tape but no good. So I put a piece of tape sticky side down and used the sides of the planters to hang it last night and again no good. Did catch a couple of lady bugs though. lol

They're about the size of a pin head.

The question is, how many pests look white to the human eye? If these are gnats or flies then I think sand would be an easy fix. But if they're spider mites (I think spider mites look black to the naked eye) then I have a bigger fight on my hands.

I really need help. I'll be beginning transplants from 5 gal to 10 gal planters tonight and I plan to start flowering them next Fri. I need to get this handled quickly.

After the infestations I also put a panty hose filter over my intake. I plan to upgrade to thrip/mite screens as soon as I can afford to.

Thanks. +rep for any help as I always do.
Sorry to hear about the bugs...
Obviously you must first identify what bugs you are dealing with. If you have spidermites (which are hard to see with the naked eye) a simple inspection with a magnifying glass on the underside of the leaves should give you a quick answer, if that is the case you will have to see if the Mite-X works. I am not overly familiar with whiteflies. Gnats (fungus gnats) are a greyish black color (adults) however their wings reflect off the lights and can give them a whitish appearence. Gnat larvae (the most dangerous part) are white, resemble tiny maggots and live in your grow medium, they feast on roots and dropped or low hanging leaves - organics-
You should be able to see these guys crawling all over your soil (medium).
If it is gnats there are two ways you can treat them.
1. a)yellow sticky strips to catch adults
b)water them with Bt
c)treat the soil with pyrethrin
2. I have resorted to this technique I learned at my local grow shop.
Simply add root conditioner (I reccomend DNF "zone") For regular usage you use 2mL per 10L(2.5gal) for treating Gnat problems you triple it 6 mL per 10L (2.5 gal). (if you don't use DNF formula, simply triple the reccommended regular dosage for that brand) And once again use yellow sticky strips too catch adults (breeders). I have had great success with this.

The good news is that if your plants are that far along it is unlikely that the gnats can cause extensive damage to mature root system.

Good luck with whatever it is, maybe this could help.
 

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
Sorry to hear about the bugs...
Obviously you must first identify what bugs you are dealing with. If you have spidermites (which are hard to see with the naked eye) a simple inspection with a magnifying glass on the underside of the leaves should give you a quick answer, if that is the case you will have to see if the Mite-X works. I am not overly familiar with whiteflies. Gnats (fungus gnats) are a greyish black color (adults) however their wings reflect off the lights and can give them a whitish appearence. Gnat larvae (the most dangerous part) are white, resemble tiny maggots and live in your grow medium, they feast on roots and dropped or low hanging leaves - organics-
You should be able to see these guys crawling all over your soil (medium).
If it is gnats there are two ways you can treat them.
1. a)yellow sticky strips to catch adults
b)water them with Bt
c)treat the soil with pyrethrin
2. I have resorted to this technique I learned at my local grow shop.
Simply add root conditioner (I reccomend DNF "zone") For regular usage you use 2mL per 10L(2.5gal) for treating Gnat problems you triple it 6 mL per 10L (2.5 gal). (if you don't use DNF formula, simply triple the reccommended regular dosage for that brand) And once again use yellow sticky strips too catch adults (breeders). I have had great success with this.

The good news is that if your plants are that far along it is unlikely that the gnats can cause extensive damage to mature root system.

Good luck with whatever it is, maybe this could help.
Thanks for the help. +rep

Well it's not hard to see them with the naked eye, so they're probably not spider mites. I think I saw spider mite adults before I treated. They were black & slow moving and they didn't really seem like they knew I was there.

They're not Gnat maggots, they move way too fast and they were on the planters, haven't seen any in the dirt.

That would leave white flies unless I misdiagnosed the original infestations which is possible. But atleast that narrows it down a little bit.

For gnats I've been told that a 1 to 2 inch layer of sand on top does the trick. The maggots can't escape when they become adults and they starve to death. And the adults flying around can't get through the sand to lay eggs for some reason. Or so I've been told anyway. Same thing for white flies.

What is Bt by the way?
 
erattack, i'm non pro but know na little bit bout shit. Were these plants f1 hybrids? Cuz if they were they would lose hybid vigor, and produce less, but same quality buds. Or were they clones to begin with? Also clones of clones don't get worse for multiple 5,10,20 years before they become less potent from what I hear
 

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
I have a new question. I finally caught one of these little SOBs on tape and I got a good look. It could be an aphid but I think it's a mite. It has 2 fangs with 2 long legs right next to the head. And it has 3 more sets of legs besides.

If anyone can tell me if these are spider mites, that would be great. The adults look like a white dot the size of a pin head.

They seem to be staying off the plants for the most part. I guess I have the lady bugs to thank for that. The only leaf they've attacked since I introduced the lady bugs was a leaf laying on the rim of the planter. But I haven't seen any leaves with white dots, the leaf I found last night looked like it had been chewed on.

The real question is what to use so I kill the mites but don't kill the lady bugs. I have a little Mite X left and that might be OK, but I can't buy more till Feb because the nursery is closed for the season. Is Neem Oil safe for Lady Bugs? Or can you recommend something else?

Thanks. +rep for help
 

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
Sorry for so many posts, but I think I identified the buggers, white mites. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarsonemidae

They use a toxin to penetrate the thicker walls of mature leaves, which would explain why they look like they've been chewed on.

But I'm still faced with the main question. I have to treat 3 times to make sure I got them so I need 3 insecticides that wont harm lady bugs. Any suggestions?
 
erattack, i'm non pro but know na little bit bout shit. Were these plants f1 hybrids? Cuz if they were they would lose hybid vigor, and produce less, but same quality buds. Or were they clones to begin with? Also clones of clones don't get worse for multiple 5,10,20 years before they become less potent from what I hear
The kush ,I got a ounce of some killer that had 10 seeds in it . I grew the seeds and 8 where hermi and 2 were female . Im not sure if that means its an hybrid .
You can see a seed in the pic.
 

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DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
The kush ,I got a ounce of some killer that had 10 seeds in it . I grew the seeds and 8 where hermi and 2 were female . Im not sure if that means its an hybrid .
You can see a seed in the pic.
If 8 out of 10 were hermie, as long as you're not letting light bleed in when flowering, or doing something else to really stress them out...... Then it sounds like the seeds either came from a hermie or it's a few generations away from the original mother. In other words, shakey genetics.

If there are seeds in the buds, then it's not going to be 100% strength to begin with. The plant decreases thc production to make the seeds.
 
HELP SOS !!!!!!!!!!! SOS !!!!!!!!!!! SOS !!!!!!!!!!! HELP !!!!!
Hi, can you help me
im doing my second grow, first grow was horrible
my first grow was 2 lb from 130 plants
-10x10x7 grow tent
-(4) 4x4 tray - 36 plants in each tray
-emily pots
- had electricity problems with the lights short circuiting sometimes
- had pest problems
- fogged the tent atleast 3x , probably slowed the growth down
- 3 part gh
- purple max
- floralicious and kool bloom

This time i have taken the precaution of the pest problem, fixed the electricity problem, and cut down the number of plants in each tray to probably about 20 ? 25 ? . I used the microscope and it was ready. I started flowering 2 weeks into it and then counted 8 weeks starting when I saw the hairs in flowering stage. I was played the first time hard because I got these clones from some bozo. I asked for granddaddy and he ended up playing me with giving me sensi star or blue dream. My buds are fluffy, so I'm thinking it's not granddaddy because it should be dense instead of fluffy. I had alot of bullshit nugs, but i cut the lower branches off. Maybe it was too packed in there and the light couldnt focus on the plants. Alot of big colas though, but I didn't top it off because i didn't know about it or how to. I turned the lights to 12/12 when they were 8 inches? Should i veg until they're 1 1/2 ft then top it off ? The new strain that I'm doing is WW
How many plants should i put in each tray ?
Should i top of my plants when they're a 1 1/2 ft ?
I'm using 4(1000 watts) , each tray 1000 watt . Air cooled lights
I have fresh air coming in and out. I'm not running a co2 tank. Does the co2 really increase the yield?
With all the problems being fixed, would you know what be the yield of about 90 plants topped off>? (Strain is WW)
I'm going to put 20 in each tray = 80 !! and 10 in a 2x4 = total is going to be 5000 watts, 1000 watts each
Any help and advice from anyone would be very appreciated
 

growerboyxam

Active Member
ive had my lowlife auto ak47 seeds germinating for about 2 or 3 days in paper towels an they havent even cracked yet so what should i do to help them germinate when should i start worrying cuz i wanna grow ! :(
 

DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
I've been up all night doing research and I think I've got it identified as a Broad Mite

I don't think I'm gonna find predatory mites with the nurseries all shut down for the season. I really need to find a pesticide that will work on mites but is safe for Lady Bugs.

Can anyone please help?
 

jmeloe

Member
Let's see if youcan help me
do you any links or websites to help me connect and figure out how to set up my computer fans (exhaust)
 
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