Help with 9lb. Blackberry Plant

drsaltzman

drsaltzman

Well-Known Member
I dont know about the rest being the cause.
I do know that 18/6 is a good suggestion even from day 1.
They grow differently in dark/light cycles.
 
gjs4786

gjs4786

Well-Known Member
Really? No one going to ask what the pH is? Okay, I will, have you tested your pH? Water going in, Slurry test, Run off?
 
Lucky Luke

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
Ive veged under 24/7 and 18/6.

The only differences I noticed is more growth under 24/7 but took longer to transition to flower from the flip. Higher electricity cost as well of cause.

Leaves move up and down at 18/6, 12/12 and 24/7. tis what they do.
 
drsaltzman

drsaltzman

Well-Known Member
When I'm concerned about the color of the leaves, I think food first including things that affect it like PH, bennies, water etc... Then light. Then temp.
The purple can be nutes, could be temps.
The light green can be nutes, temps or lights.
Overall I'm not panicking if that's my plant.
 
drsaltzman

drsaltzman

Well-Known Member
Lucky Luke said:
Ive veged under 24/7 and 18/6.

The only differences I noticed is more growth under 24/7 but took longer to transition to flower from the flip. Higher electricity cost as well of cause.

Leaves move up and down at 18/6, 12/12 and 24/7.
Click to expand...
If you're trying to recreate the environment, you mimic their natural cycle that includes darkness.
If you're trying to exploit it, you go 24/0, as long as you need.
No major difference I agree.
Just maybe a preference. Or being energy conscious.
 
T

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
Lucky Luke said:
Please don't ask me mine as I have no idea. One of the advantageous of being in soil.
Click to expand...
I don't believe I asked anyone mate.
By no means would I have asked you either.
PH matters. Period.
To say otherwise is a flat out lie.
Never check ph in soil, if you don't have a problem. Why the hell should you need to?
But when you have a problem, and you don't know why. It's a bad move, if ph isn't the very first thing to check.

You can browse any decent non cannabis gardening, or agricultural books, and it'll tell you the same thing.

If you go and study horticulture. They teach you the same thing.
Where would you start in someone's garden, who you didn't know?
How would you know their soil is fine, for the varieties of different plants, they want in their garden?

PH has to come first. Before any salts in the ground.
 
Lucky Luke

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
Tim1987 said:
I don't believe I asked anyone mate.
By no means would I have asked you either.
PH matters. Period.
To say otherwise is a flat out lie.
Never check ph in soil, if you don't have a problem. Why the hell should you need to?
But when you have a problem, and you don't know why. It's a bad move, if ph isn't the very first thing to check.

You can browse any decent non cannabis gardening, or agricultural books, and it'll tell you the same thing.

If you go and study horticulture. They teach you the same thing.
Where would you start in someone's garden, who you didn't know?
How would you know their soil is fine, for the varieties of different plants, they want in their garden?

PH has to come first. Before any salts in the ground.
Click to expand...
By that rant you might not believe what I actually do for a living..lol

Maybe, just maybe, its a little light green (and lets face it, it doesn't look to bad) cause it needs a good fert? Isn't it about the size that most plants want some feed?
 
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gjs4786

gjs4786

Well-Known Member
Lucky Luke said:
By that rant you might not believe what I actually do for a living..lol

Maybe, just maybe, its a little light green (and lets face it, it doesn't look to bad) cause it needs a good fert? Isn't it about the size that most plants want some feed?
Click to expand...
See...I'll admit, pH is not the end all, be all, but this is the thinking that gets people in to trouble so very often. Their pH is off and they attribute it to a deficiency and give it more nutes. Time and time and time again. It never fails. A doctor doesn't complete a checkup without his stethoscope, why should a grower not know what their pH is? "I never had a problem before" is what I see the most. Of course you didn't have a problem, but you weren't on a forum before looking for assistance either. pH can swing wildly, especially if you use tap water. Maybe the guy at the treatment plant gave twice as much or half as much as what he should have, etc.
 
Lucky Luke

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
gjs4786 said:
See...I'll admit, pH is not the end all, be all, but this is the thinking that gets people in to trouble so very often. Their pH is off and they attribute it to a deficiency and give it more nutes. Time and time and time again. It never fails. A doctor doesn't complete a checkup without his stethoscope, why should a grower not know what their pH is? "I never had a problem before" is what I see the most. Of course you didn't have a problem, but you weren't on a forum before looking for assistance either. pH can swing wildly, especially if you use tap water. Maybe the guy at the treatment plant gave twice as much or half as much as what he should have, etc.
Click to expand...
PH of the water and the feed is much more important than the soil, sure. My water is rain water (concrete tank). I don't need to check that as it will be 6.8-6.9. Like its always been.

PH in soil does swing..so when should he check his soil PH? how often? over what period?

But the majority of the guys who have been running soil for awhile will pretty much say the same thing- They don't check PH.
 
T

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
Lucky Luke said:
By that rant you might not believe what I actually do for a living..lol
Click to expand...
Then if that's the case. You obviously know better.

You shouldn't ever, doubt what other people might do, either.
I havnt doubted you, and you shouldn't be doubting me either.
Let's both be a little real, and help the OP.
Instead of the two of us comparing penises.
:peace:
 
Lucky Luke

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
Tim1987 said:
Then if that's the case. You obviously know better.

You shouldn't ever, doubt what other people might do, either.
I havnt doubted you, and you shouldn't be doubting me either.
Let's both be a little real, and help the OP.
Instead of the two of us comparing penises.
:peace:
Click to expand...
mate, read my initial post again. if you find confrontation in that then you are not reading it in the same context I wrote it.



Lucky Luke
Well-Known Member
Tim1987 said: ↑
Amazes me too. TBH.
"Please don't ask me mine as I have no idea. One of the advantageous of being in soil."
 
gjs4786

gjs4786

Well-Known Member
Lucky Luke said:
PH of the water and the feed is much more important than the soil, sure. My water is rain water (concrete tank). I don't need to check that as it will be 6.8-6.9. Like its always been.

PH in soil does swing..so when should he check his soil PH? how often? over what period?

But the majority of the guys who have been running soil for awhile will pretty much say the same thing- They don't check PH.
Click to expand...
So, ideally pH should be checked before watering, after watering (run off) and a soil sample taken and mixed with enough water to create a slurry. The pH pen/device doesn't even have to be calibrated for this to work. If you take readings from a plant/grow that is doing great you'll know that any deviation from that can indicate a potential problem and should be investigated. It's so quick and easy to check the pH that it should absolutely be the first thing to investigate. Why do growers fight this step so much? Is it because they don't want to drop 13 bucks on a cheap pH pen? I can't think of any other reason to skip out on something so easy that could potentially save a grow and prevent a lot of guesswork, trial and error...
 
Lucky Luke

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
gjs4786 said:
So, ideally pH should be checked before watering, after watering (run off) and a soil sample taken and mixed with enough water to create a slurry. The pH pen/device doesn't even have to be calibrated for this to work. If you take readings from a plant/grow that is doing great you'll know that any deviation from that can indicate a potential problem and should be investigated. It's so quick and easy to check the pH that it should absolutely be the first thing to investigate. Why do growers fight this step so much? Is it because they don't want to drop 13 bucks on a cheap pH pen? I can't think of any other reason to skip out on something so easy that could potentially save a grow and prevent a lot of guesswork, trial and error...
Click to expand...
So the plants roots dont adjust the ph of the soil?
The soils PH doesnt change during the wet and dry cycle?
You dont think a PH pen should be calibrated?
You think that a $13 PH probe is accurate? (buy 3 and check...)

You dont think that the ph of the soil might of best been checked before a plant was planted with the soil being damp?

Have you ever chased a stable PH in soil? What was the result?
 
T

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
gjs4786 said:
So, ideally pH should be checked before watering, after watering (run off) and a soil sample taken and mixed with enough water to create a slurry. The pH pen/device doesn't even have to be calibrated for this to work. If you take readings from a plant/grow that is doing great you'll know that any deviation from that can indicate a potential problem and should be investigated. It's so quick and easy to check the pH that it should absolutely be the first thing to investigate. Why do growers fight this step so much? Is it because they don't want to drop 13 bucks on a cheap pH pen? I can't think of any other reason to skip out on something so easy that could potentially save a grow and prevent a lot of guesswork, trial and error...
Click to expand...
THIS 100%

1. PH
2. EC
3. BUGS

In that order. It only takes 5 - 10 minutes, and narrows down the possibilities 10 fold.
 
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