help me out guys

c-rooster

Member
My plant is yellowing and some brown spots... i just changed from go box nutes to dyna gro foliage pro yesterday hoping i can simplify and figure it out.

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Terry385

Well-Known Member
looks over watering are you letting dry out before feeding again maybe lock out have you been checking ph check for spider mites also
 

c-rooster

Member
I have been phing. I watered it yesterday. Hope its not spider mites looked but didnt see any gonna get good magnifying glass and go over it better. Its inside plant. Havent seen any webs yet.
 

Kili Frunza

Active Member
That is definitely a magnesium defficiency and also add some PH fluctuations to that. If you are SURE you did not spoil any nutrients on the leaves then its Ph fluctuation (be sure to check that at the root level) and also you need to feed her some magnesium or nutrient that has it.

The problem can also be nutrient lockout or ph lockout, it doesnt look like your leaves tips are burnt so it can be ph lockout. But don't go there yet, just feed some mag and see what happends if nothing changes, you need to check ROOT ph.

Measure water that goes in ph
Measure water that goes out ph (bottom)

There was a formula to find the ph but i believe its just the mean betwen them for example in 7 , out 6 then ph is around 5 at root zone. If ph is wrong there then it can't absorb some nutrients that are only available in specific ph range.

Hope u fix it mate.

Also, looks like overwatering to me, even tough underwatering and overwatering symptoms are close to eachother, so you can only be sure by checking.
 

c-rooster

Member
Thanks bud. Sure hope its not mites.... ill look into all that. It was 6.5 ph going in and 1ml to gallon of foliage pro. I will add g.o. calmag at full dose next water. Hope she straightens out... i still have the run off from yesterday would i get an accurate read off that? The leaves coulda been from my pump sprayer pressure being to high and splashed up. Ill be more careful
 

Kili Frunza

Active Member
Thanks bud. Sure hope its not mites.... ill look into all that. It was 6.5 ph going in and 1ml to gallon of foliage pro. I will add g.o. calmag at full dose next water. Hope she straightens out... i still have the run off from yesterday would i get an accurate read off that? The leaves coulda been from my pump sprayer pressure being to high and splashed up. Ill be more careful
If its from that sprayer then don't worry about ph. Try to give her some cal-mag and see if she if it advances.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
That is definitely a magnesium defficiency and also add some PH fluctuations to that. If you are SURE you did not spoil any nutrients on the leaves then its Ph fluctuation (be sure to check that at the root level) and also you need to feed her some magnesium or nutrient that has it.

The problem can also be nutrient lockout or ph lockout, it doesnt look like your leaves tips are burnt so it can be ph lockout. But don't go there yet, just feed some mag and see what happends if nothing changes, you need to check ROOT ph.

Measure water that goes in ph
Measure water that goes out ph (bottom)

There was a formula to find the ph but i believe its just the mean betwen them for example in 7 , out 6 then ph is around 5 at root zone. If ph is wrong there then it can't absorb some nutrients that are only available in specific ph range.

Hope u fix it mate.

Also, looks like overwatering to me, even tough underwatering and overwatering symptoms are close to eachother, so you can only be sure by checking.

Ph of run off is just that - the pH of the run off......
Formula? Right - That's not going to be accurate, too many variables! When using synthetics and soil.....Simply pH all in-going to 6.5 and maybe use some "zyme" (Mycos product of some type) once in a while...then forget about Ph in soil....
Better yet do organic water only built soils and never worry about pH.

It's Ca/Mg def....


Doc

Anyway that's NOT a lock out!
 

Kili Frunza

Active Member
Ph of run off is just that - the pH of the run off......
Formula? Right - That's not going to be accurate, too many variables! When using synthetics and soil.....Simply pH all in-going to 6.5 and maybe use some "zyme" (Mycos product of some type) once in a while...then forget about Ph in soil....
Better yet do organic water only built soils and never worry about pH.

It's Ca/Mg def....


Doc

Anyway that's NOT a lock out!
How can you say forget about ph in soil? Yes the soil has a ph buffer but feeding the soil with wrong ph-ed nutes/water for some time can lead to soil ph going down/up and having that at root zone will make the plant unable to absorb nutrients wich can lead to problems. Yes in soil you do not need to check PH that often like hydro but just ignoring it sounds...... not right :).
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
How can you say forget about ph in soil? Yes the soil has a ph buffer but feeding the soil with wrong ph-ed nutes/water for some time can lead to soil ph going down/up and having that at root zone will make the plant unable to absorb nutrients wich can lead to problems. Yes in soil you do not need to check PH that often like hydro but just ignoring it sounds...... not right :).
Organic or healthy soil SELF pH's!!!



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Kili Frunza

Active Member
Organic or healthy soil SELF pH's!!!



Sent from my SM-N910P using Rollitup mobile app
Oh well i've never heard that before, ever, nor read it anywhere..... the soil has a buffer that tamponates the ph to a certain ammount but as i said feeding it wrong ph for a lot of watering will change it's ph. I'l stick to documented sources of infos. Yes organic soil that is a living soil will change it's ph back but regular (healthy) soil, hmm i dont know about that.
 

outlier

Well-Known Member
How can you say forget about ph in soil? Yes the soil has a ph buffer but feeding the soil with wrong ph-ed nutes/water for some time can lead to soil ph going down/up and having that at root zone will make the plant unable to absorb nutrients wich can lead to problems. Yes in soil you do not need to check PH that often like hydro but just ignoring it sounds...... not right :).
I ignored it for years and wondered why I was getting terrible yields/deficiencies in organic super soil. Turns out the ladies didn't appreciate me watering them constantly with ph 9-10 rainwater stored in a concrete tank. lol... yes live and learn (the hard way as per usual) :)
 

old shol4evr

Well-Known Member
never mentioned what your medium is, got to start there to figure out your problem .i grow in soil i only check ph every other time i feed ,live in city cant rely on the water source loaded with lime, yes a good soil mix will and does buffer what you feed it,but if you do ph ,soil is 6.5 to 6.8.im asking about your soil because that add a lot of shit in there these days,as far as nutrients,some you dont add anything for 3 months from slow realese crap they put in. so start at the dirt
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Oh well i've never heard that before, ever, nor read it anywhere..... the soil has a buffer that tamponates the ph to a certain ammount but as i said feeding it wrong ph for a lot of watering will change it's ph. I'l stick to documented sources of infos. Yes organic soil that is a living soil will change it's ph back but regular (healthy) soil, hmm i dont know about that.
Really? Don't read much then do you?
Take a trip down the ORGANIC thread sometime.

You might pH the in-going but, pHing soil is a waste of time!

Same for the brainiac that posted his failure after your post!

Doc

Sent from my SM-N910P using Rollitup mobile app
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I ignored it for years and wondered why I was getting terrible yields/deficiencies in organic super soil. Turns out the ladies didn't appreciate me watering them constantly with ph 9-10 rainwater stored in a concrete tank. lol... yes live and learn (the hard way as per usual) :)
The point was NOT your soil pH to start. It was what you put in for water....Now just what do you think could have been leaching out of a "concrete" water storage unit that would, could and did effect the wayer quality?
How well did you amend your soil to stabilize the soils pH?
What did you do for mycos?

I (and I'm sure others) feel your problem started with your soil recipe!

Built soils are like computers.
GARBAGE IN - GARBAGE OUT!

BTW, my water goes in around 8.0 and I have no problems, start to finish. I build my own SS's from the growd up! I count by experience by decades...

Doc

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outlier

Well-Known Member
Really? Don't read much then do you?
Take a trip down the ORGANIC thread sometime.

You might pH the in-going but, pHing soil is a waste of time!

Same for the brainiac that posted his failure after your post!

Doc

Sent from my SM-N910P using Rollitup mobile app
The point was NOT your soil pH to start. It was what you put in for water....Now just what do you think could have been leaching out of a "concrete" water storage unit that would, could and did effect the wayer quality?
How well did you amend your soil to stabilize the soils pH?
What did you do for mycos?

I (and I'm sure others) feel your problem started with your soil recipe!

Built soils are like computers.
GARBAGE IN - GARBAGE OUT!

BTW, my water goes in around 8.0 and I have no problems, start to finish. I build my own SS's from the growd up! I count by experience by decades...

Doc

Sent from my SM-N910P using Rollitup mobile app
Derp Doc. The point was that I ignored my water ph, never tested it once. My soil was fine to begin with. It was cactus after practically pouring straight ph up on there for 5-6 months. So yeah, it was my fault that I did not test my friggen water ph to begin with. At least I can admit and learn from my mistakes.

So now, how do you expect one to "amend" the soil when you're oblivious to what you need to compensate for in the first place? Tell me that, brainiac....

Like I said, live and learn. Your post champ is about as useful as tits on a bull.
 
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Kili Frunza

Active Member
Really? Don't read much then do you?
Take a trip down the ORGANIC thread sometime.

You might pH the in-going but, pHing soil is a waste of time!

Same for the brainiac that posted his failure after your post!

Doc

Sent from my SM-N910P using Rollitup mobile app
Go kill your ego, its too big. Done.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Derp Doc. The point was that I ignored my water ph, never tested it once. My soil was fine to begin with. It was cactus after practically pouring straight ph up on there for 5-6 months. So yeah, it was my fault that I did not test my friggen water ph to begin with. At least I can admit and learn from my mistakes.

So now, how do you expect one to "amend" the soil when you're oblivious to what you need to compensate for in the first place? Tell me that, brainiac....

Like I said, live and learn. Your post champ is about as useful as tits on a bull.
Should be done to start with.....Combination of Dolomite, (I don't use much as it has lots of Mg and you can get too much) Crushed egg/oyster shell (equal amounts). Then you add your Mineral mix and then your main NPK nutrient source and stir, water then "cook"....

Sorry about the dis - bad day and that's no excuse on my part for that...again, sorry bout that.

Doc
 
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