Heaths Flooded Tube Vertical
- Thread starter Heath Robinson
- Start date
greenyield
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info. I use 2" pots to clone cuttings using aeroponics, it would have been spot on if all i had to do was pop in my 2" pots of rooted clones. i can work out the length of the straight pipe now i know they are 3" pots in there.
greenyield
Well-Known Member
hey SOG, i wanted to make an exact replica of heaths system but i guess i will just have to take my chances and do some guessing on the straight pipe length, shouldnt be too far off though. this system is easy when you see the parts, they just push fit together.lol,
sorry bra didn't mean to offend you
that's just our humor, you'll find it; one day
here you go
page one, post one, of this thread
will guide you through what you need to accomplish
you will need to figure your size based on your space,
he explains the concept of his system in details
I'm sure he doesn't have exact measurement
for every piece in the puzzle, angles etc.. are all mentioned
now go do some reading, hmm... and some math
enjoy
i had read through this thread for about 6 hours the other day so i was pissed off when i couldnt find any answers on certain things, thanks to everyone for the help.
greenyield
Well-Known Member
thanks for that proheto8008, im going to look in the aquatics shops for the pipe couplings on the end caps and see what i can find. I went to price up the pipework and fittings in wickes yesterday, man they are pricey, they are cheaper on drainstore.com. i cant build this thing and put it into use for another couple of months as my room is occupied at the moment, that wont stop me from buying the parts though. i will look forward to watching your project.Hey friend,
I know how hard it can be digging through 500 posts just looking for one single bit of info... (like how did you couple your tubing with your end cap) so i am going to be building out this system as best as i can over the next month. I will detail every aspect with pics and put together as detailed plans as i possible can.
Im gonna be posting these plans and pics on
www.verticalgreen.org
stay tuned. Ill post up when i finish
iloveit
Well-Known Member
Ah so your from the U.K. too, I reckon Wickes is way better than B&Q in terms of quality.
Make sure your frame is firmly fastened to the ground or at least stable because when the system is running the water will add on more weight plus flowing water creates momentum.
greenyield
Well-Known Member
im gonna go just a little bit off topic for a moment.
before i saw this thread i had looked at the eco-system and the coliseum and at 2grand each i thought no way man,
i had an idea that im going to try before anything else.
i bought a 122cm diameter paddling pool which im going to use as the reservoir, i will put some plastic blocks around the inside edge so i can rest a sylindrical chicken wire frame on them just above the water level. the chicken wire frame will have plant support canes woven through vertically to give it some strength.
then im going to tie 22 rockwool slabs vertically to the inside of the frame so that water will drip back into the reservoir after it passes through the rockwool. i will prob have to support the frame on the outside aswell to stop it from leaning to one side or falling. i will buy a cooltube on sale and remove the stupid reflector from it to give me a clear tube then suspend it into the middle of the slabs by using garden wire.
i just need a pump capable of drip feeding the whole 22 slabs if that is possible, ive been looking at 3000 and 4000 ltr an hour pond pumps.
any thoughts anyone?
rollin20crip
Member
amazing how much did that set you back
iloveit
Well-Known Member
easypleasie
Active Member
greenyield,
Heath has a bunch of different vertical setups floating around the web. If you can't find info here, check out some other sites. Google is our friend
Too bad some of those sites are no longer around as they would have provided you with even more insightful reading material. Some questions that haven't been answered here have been answered elsewhere. Imagine if you were the one answering tons of questions from everyone (often the same questions) on multiple forums! And for FREE! It's not his job. He's not promoting anything, just showing us different ways to grow efficiently. It's up to us to take it from there. He's provided more than enough information.
If you really want to build it exactly, then you're gonna have to do some more digging around. And MATH! lol Gotta have some patience, bro. If you don't find it the first time, read the thread again! Some things will "click" after you read it more than once. And take notes! You'll be able to answer your own questions instead of "sounding" like a newb. Which is really easy to do when you're just typing your thoughts in front of the computer. Things will come out the wrong way. And having any kind of attitude won't get you any help! I'm sure there would be a lot of people that would have replied but...LOL!
We're fortunate this is even on the web. Otherwise, you'd be completely on your own and we'd never get to enjoy Heath's work. Even If you don't build it, the info alone is priceless.
Oh, and it's a lot to ask anyone to draw up plans for you. Just to make your life easier! See how that comes across? I do like his CAD diagrams! haha
It's all experimental so nothing is set in stone. It's not gonna destroy your harvest if you're an inch off. This system can be built hundreds of ways.
And people like sog, iloveit, myself and many others have already invested the time to learn. It's best if you give it the same effort and without the smart ass remarks to existing members that have been around a while. You'll probably laugh at yourself when you discover how easy this system is to build. Heath did all the hard work. You just gotta use your brain a little now.
Best of luck!
edit: here's a little link for you. Full of his vertical setups.
http://www.breedbay.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=87204&mode=linear#post87204
Heath has a bunch of different vertical setups floating around the web. If you can't find info here, check out some other sites. Google is our friend
Too bad some of those sites are no longer around as they would have provided you with even more insightful reading material. Some questions that haven't been answered here have been answered elsewhere. Imagine if you were the one answering tons of questions from everyone (often the same questions) on multiple forums! And for FREE! It's not his job. He's not promoting anything, just showing us different ways to grow efficiently. It's up to us to take it from there. He's provided more than enough information. If you really want to build it exactly, then you're gonna have to do some more digging around. And MATH! lol Gotta have some patience, bro. If you don't find it the first time, read the thread again! Some things will "click" after you read it more than once. And take notes! You'll be able to answer your own questions instead of "sounding" like a newb. Which is really easy to do when you're just typing your thoughts in front of the computer. Things will come out the wrong way. And having any kind of attitude won't get you any help! I'm sure there would be a lot of people that would have replied but...LOL!
We're fortunate this is even on the web. Otherwise, you'd be completely on your own and we'd never get to enjoy Heath's work. Even If you don't build it, the info alone is priceless.
Oh, and it's a lot to ask anyone to draw up plans for you. Just to make your life easier! See how that comes across? I do like his CAD diagrams! haha
It's all experimental so nothing is set in stone. It's not gonna destroy your harvest if you're an inch off. This system can be built hundreds of ways.
And people like sog, iloveit, myself and many others have already invested the time to learn. It's best if you give it the same effort and without the smart ass remarks to existing members that have been around a while. You'll probably laugh at yourself when you discover how easy this system is to build. Heath did all the hard work. You just gotta use your brain a little now.
Best of luck!
edit: here's a little link for you. Full of his vertical setups.
http://www.breedbay.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=87204&mode=linear#post87204
greenyield
Well-Known Member
yes! iloveit, that is the idea but mine will not look so professional. it will be a rushed job with low cost setup in mind (although, rockwool will be £70),but will work ok. i just want to do a vertical to see what difference i can get in weight from one bulb.
i would like to post some pics when i get it setup but how do i upload pics to the forum from my computer? it asks what url i want to upload the image from.
drizzyrogers
Active Member
how man babies do you grow in one crop??
proheto8008
Well-Known Member
Just FYI for all those who are looking for the pipe that Heath uses.
Google Search "FloPlast Pipe" and youll see that it is only available in the UK. http://www.fascias.com/home.html?target=dept_200.html&lang=en-gb
However the closest thing ive been able to find is this at home depot
Polyethylene Solid Drainage Pipe
Model # 4550010
Store SKU# 189781
however it is not available at every store. So youll have to see if your local stores carry it.
I was thinking about building up my system using the flex corrugated drainage pipe. That would make a build alot simpler, However i think the corrugated ridges would make it very hard for cleanup.
Any ideas?
Google Search "FloPlast Pipe" and youll see that it is only available in the UK. http://www.fascias.com/home.html?target=dept_200.html&lang=en-gb
However the closest thing ive been able to find is this at home depot
Polyethylene Solid Drainage Pipe
Model # 4550010
Store SKU# 189781
however it is not available at every store. So youll have to see if your local stores carry it.
I was thinking about building up my system using the flex corrugated drainage pipe. That would make a build alot simpler, However i think the corrugated ridges would make it very hard for cleanup.
Any ideas?
nephilthy
Member
the system you want depends on light usage so with the 600 max 28 inches from bulb so of the 27 -22 degree couplers heath use 24 divided by the 4 runs = 6 twenty two degree couplers per level.the other three are used to meet small section of pipe coming off of the 45 degree angle bends .
this is with either schedule sd- 35 or the scedulr 40 pvc found at ho depot.
so mesuring the ho depot coupler account for the fact that 4 inches of pipe material needs to be inserted into coupler.
20 1/2 inches goes into 126 6 times so those were the lengths i used.when assembled you should have 28 inches to center of circle all the way around.I made my final section a litle longer as i couldn't recess resevoir into ground.
i don't have pics to post but had some problems with heat and root rot initially so it fucked up my yields,but after doing a cycle heres a couple of points.
if you use glue dont overdue it priming will insure the pvc material is softened toaccept glue.
when gluing level service keep all bends same position or you will have a section of pipe sloping downward or upward if they arent leveled when glued.
where a respirator if your in a confined area m.e.k. will make you into a space cowboy if you breathe that crap not healthy toxoids.
when joining join completely butt the pipe completely into coupler while giving a 1/4 turn twist.
don't use perforated drain soil pipe!
the less connections the better!you can bend pvc pipe..but fill with sand to prevent kinking on bends you can use a heat gun starts to become pliable at 330 degrees but have a good level template!
after ensuring each level is leveled equidistanced from others good idea to cut 3" net pots sites before assembling makes sure they are rough 10-12 degree angle off of top center pipe.
whatever light you want to use figure max effective throw so a 1000 watt dunno say 4 feet would mean you would need 48 inches all the way around center of where bulb would be so you would have an 8 foot circle .
a 400 watt effective throw 18 inches so 3 feet across
whatever light you use do the layout on a flat surface take good measurements and bear in mind lengths you are cutting to ensure you have minimal waste=money.
a 4000 lire pump equates to 1000 gallons an hour which is overkill you copuld get away with 100 gallon per hour pump with an airstone .
also if you don't use heaths sd-35 standard ensure you have a dam at the end of the run that you can adjust I had sour cram lids cut in half glued to last coupler at end of each level.well as root mass got big started leaking with the 320 gallon an hour pump I had perforation some leaks led me to knock out the dams towards end of the run .
ensure you have good a.c. or chiller to keep res and room temps optimala nd you will avoid root rot
keep your humidity below 50 percent powdery mildew is a bitch out here on west coast.
my latest thougt for a good dam would be to cut a slot into top of coupler where my dam site will rest against the inside rim of coupler then attach a small thin peice of metal to my dam in my case a sour cream lid work perfect for schedule 40.and instead of gluing lid i will pull up the attched piece and bend over slot to raise,lower or remove dam.a piece of venetian blind or earthquake strapping would work well as they are thin yet strong.
hope you find this usefull.
this is with either schedule sd- 35 or the scedulr 40 pvc found at ho depot.
so mesuring the ho depot coupler account for the fact that 4 inches of pipe material needs to be inserted into coupler.
20 1/2 inches goes into 126 6 times so those were the lengths i used.when assembled you should have 28 inches to center of circle all the way around.I made my final section a litle longer as i couldn't recess resevoir into ground.
i don't have pics to post but had some problems with heat and root rot initially so it fucked up my yields,but after doing a cycle heres a couple of points.
if you use glue dont overdue it priming will insure the pvc material is softened toaccept glue.
when gluing level service keep all bends same position or you will have a section of pipe sloping downward or upward if they arent leveled when glued.
where a respirator if your in a confined area m.e.k. will make you into a space cowboy if you breathe that crap not healthy toxoids.
when joining join completely butt the pipe completely into coupler while giving a 1/4 turn twist.
don't use perforated drain soil pipe!
the less connections the better!you can bend pvc pipe..but fill with sand to prevent kinking on bends you can use a heat gun starts to become pliable at 330 degrees but have a good level template!
after ensuring each level is leveled equidistanced from others good idea to cut 3" net pots sites before assembling makes sure they are rough 10-12 degree angle off of top center pipe.
whatever light you want to use figure max effective throw so a 1000 watt dunno say 4 feet would mean you would need 48 inches all the way around center of where bulb would be so you would have an 8 foot circle .
a 400 watt effective throw 18 inches so 3 feet across
whatever light you use do the layout on a flat surface take good measurements and bear in mind lengths you are cutting to ensure you have minimal waste=money.
a 4000 lire pump equates to 1000 gallons an hour which is overkill you copuld get away with 100 gallon per hour pump with an airstone .
also if you don't use heaths sd-35 standard ensure you have a dam at the end of the run that you can adjust I had sour cram lids cut in half glued to last coupler at end of each level.well as root mass got big started leaking with the 320 gallon an hour pump I had perforation some leaks led me to knock out the dams towards end of the run .
ensure you have good a.c. or chiller to keep res and room temps optimala nd you will avoid root rot
keep your humidity below 50 percent powdery mildew is a bitch out here on west coast.
my latest thougt for a good dam would be to cut a slot into top of coupler where my dam site will rest against the inside rim of coupler then attach a small thin peice of metal to my dam in my case a sour cream lid work perfect for schedule 40.and instead of gluing lid i will pull up the attched piece and bend over slot to raise,lower or remove dam.a piece of venetian blind or earthquake strapping would work well as they are thin yet strong.
hope you find this usefull.
proheto8008
Well-Known Member
if i use a 1000 watt cool tube then i should be able to use a system the same size as heaths right?
nephilthy
Member
yea but it's about effeciency and lumens or grams per watt if you do a 1000 based on 600 distance you would have less sites less yield than with a 1000 which should have another 2 0r 3 levels with probably a bunch more net pot sites with a cool tube you could definitely bring closer to light,but i think a vertical scrog would be more helpful,though a cool tube would alleviate any fears about water or anything else dangerous coming into contact with bulb.
bear in mind whatever your are shooting for yield,potency are subjective matters to the individual so adjust to personal preferance.I would think for yield with a thousand you could achieve 40 percent more weight than heaths 46 oz so probably another 20 oz or so if everything was successful.
bear in mind whatever your are shooting for yield,potency are subjective matters to the individual so adjust to personal preferance.I would think for yield with a thousand you could achieve 40 percent more weight than heaths 46 oz so probably another 20 oz or so if everything was successful.
BoxedIn
Member
DAmn. i just read this thread straight through. i've been trying to plan a 3x3 with 4 tiers. vertical SOG and this thread has made me feel way better about only having a 600 watt lamp. I thought it wasn't going to be enough light, but i stand corrected. It should be the perfect amount. damn i can't wait to get things looking like this... oooo i'm getting a stiffy thinking about it lol. maybe i could even do 5 tiers since they'll be 3 feet long on each side... anyways, this thread isn't about me. HEATH!!!! you crazy SOB, add me to your list of supporters, i don't see why people are still growing on the flat ground lol.