budsgalore
Well-Known Member
Who would need a pound every 3 weeks? There's no way you can smoke that much.
Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!
- Thread starter StinkBud
- Start date
Smokey57
Well-Known Member
What does that have to do with the price of rice in China
Keesje
Well-Known Member
Is it International Idiots Day today?
budsgalore
Well-Known Member
It's called sarcasm dumbass. I know that its scroungy drug dealers who need that much.
Keesje
Well-Known Member
Then there are lots of scroungy drug dealers on this forum.
No people here who grow medical marijuana for friends in places where it is impossible to get it legal.
No growers here from states where it is all legalized.
No ordinary people here who want to make some money on the side, without a government telling them how to live.
But thank God there are great comedians here like yourself who still practice the ancient art of 'narrow-minded sarcasm'
No people here who grow medical marijuana for friends in places where it is impossible to get it legal.
No growers here from states where it is all legalized.
No ordinary people here who want to make some money on the side, without a government telling them how to live.
But thank God there are great comedians here like yourself who still practice the ancient art of 'narrow-minded sarcasm'
Schneider Electric RE48A
BleedsGreen
Well-Known Member
As long as that timer allows you to set it so it is on for 30 seconds to one minute then off for 4 to 5 minutes you will be fine. Some allow further fine tuning but that is not necessary especially when first learning this type of system.
TeddyNugget
Member
Hello all. I am new here. I haven’t had a chance to read through this entire thread yet, so I apologize if this has already been discussed...
Has anyone tried putting the spray lines in the top corner of the tube (instead of on bottom)?
More like the General Hydroponics AeroFlo.
I run a system very similar to this StinkBud. A friend had an old GH aeroflo so I just took all the measurements and copied that design. I even used all the same rubber grommets that the aeroflo does (they’re cheap and readily available at my local shop). It’s basically the same as the StinkBud, uses the same fence post grow tubes, but with a few differences.
(To get an idea, look at a picture of the GH Aeroflo 36. Except I designed mine with 3 tubes on each side of the reservoir instead of all 6 grow tubes on 1 side. (like the Aeroflo 60 in its staggered configuration, if anyone knows what that looks like). The grow tubes are 4’ long. The reservoir sits in the middle, with 2 lights on each side. 1 over each set of the three 4’ grow tubes)
- The spray lines would go in the top corner of the fence post, and instead of using spray heads you just drill holes and angle the holes on the spray line so they point 45 degrees toward the opposite bottom corner (so if you mount the lines on the top left, they would spray to the bottom right corner).
It works by creating a jet of water that sprays into the opposite bottom corner, creating lots of mist when it hits the corner/wall and it also creates bubbles in the thin film of water running along the bottom of the tube.
I actually designed mine to just use the General Hydroponics Aeroflo spray lines, instead of pvc. The GH spray lines come in either 4’ or 6’ lengths, are like $7 a piece and easily replaceable if (when) they start to clog. They’re made of some type of cheap flexible tubing. They attach to a manifold via garden hose thread.
- So then I created a pvc manifold to attach them to. It uses 1x1x1 T’s and 1” pvc. In the bottom of the T I use a 3/4 slip to MHT (male hose thread). Then I attach the manifold directly to a pump (with 1” pvc pipe) that sits in the reservoir below. I use a 900gph magdrive pump to create lots of mist (I have a water chiller for res temps) and I just leave it on 24/7. I’ve found the constant on-off cycles of the pump just burn the pumps out much quicker. You can also use the inline feature of the pump and install it outside of your reservoir if you’re worried about water temps.
- I also changed the way the grow tubes drain into the reservoir. I capped both ends of the square grow tubes (fence posts), and on the end that sits on top of the reservoir I just drilled a 2” drain hole (w/a rubber grommet to make it waterproof) that I slip a piece of PVC pipe into that runs directly back into the reservoir. The fence post grow tubes are elevated very slightly to run back toward the res.
Using the drain tubes also allows you to control the depth of the water in the grow tubes. If you raise the drain tubes, the water level in the tube raises too (though I always just keep them even with the bottom of the tube). But you could use it more DWC style if you wanted, with the water spray lines/jets creating the bubbles in the grow tube.
- the plants sit in 3 inch net cups filled with lava rocks. I’ve also tried planting directly in neoprene collars/rings, but I found that the plants are much more stable in the net cups.
Each tube has 6x 3in holes, but I usually only use every other site (so 3 per 4’ tube).
I run a much lower PPM than StinkBud. I find I get my best results when I don’t go above 500-600 ppm. It may sound low but I’ve found that’s all that’s required in this machine.
I get Better yield, MUCH better taste. Burns cleaner. Ive found that I don’t need anything higher than that in this system. I used to run the ppm anywhere from 1000-1800, but now I never get above 750 or 800 on rare occasion. Usually it stays around 500, peaking around 600.
I found a base nutrient line that calls for 5ml a gallon (a&b or 3 part). This way it gives me my target ppm and also stays at a stable ph. I was finding that trying to run some of these base nutrients that call for 15+ml/gl at a lower ppm gave me wild ph fluctuations. You can also just use something like the H&G ph stabilizer if massive ph swings are an issue at lower ppm’s.
A couple other tricks I’ve found to get a better taste in aero -
- I just run a simple nute schedule and keep the ppm’s low. Your base nutrient, your beneficials if you run a live res, or a product like Zone (chloramine) if you run a sterile/dead res, Floralicious (for that organic matter to give it taste), and a bud booster (liquid koolbloom is cheap and what I usually use). I tried running all these complex nutrient lines with tons of different additives, but
- I’ve also played around with adding some liquid bat guano poured through a cheesecloth/strainer (to keep any solids out). I love the flavor bat guano adds.
- Letting the ph go through a full swing from 5.5 to 6.3 (or 6.5), before bringing it back down to 5.5. I notice a better taste when I do this.
- I put a pack of those seed starter pellets inside a few nylon stockings (or multiple socks - you don’t want the gunk leaking out) and let it float in the reservoir. It gives it a bit of that soil taste IMO.
I look forward to joining the discussions on this forum!
Has anyone tried putting the spray lines in the top corner of the tube (instead of on bottom)?
More like the General Hydroponics AeroFlo.
I run a system very similar to this StinkBud. A friend had an old GH aeroflo so I just took all the measurements and copied that design. I even used all the same rubber grommets that the aeroflo does (they’re cheap and readily available at my local shop). It’s basically the same as the StinkBud, uses the same fence post grow tubes, but with a few differences.
(To get an idea, look at a picture of the GH Aeroflo 36. Except I designed mine with 3 tubes on each side of the reservoir instead of all 6 grow tubes on 1 side. (like the Aeroflo 60 in its staggered configuration, if anyone knows what that looks like). The grow tubes are 4’ long. The reservoir sits in the middle, with 2 lights on each side. 1 over each set of the three 4’ grow tubes)
- The spray lines would go in the top corner of the fence post, and instead of using spray heads you just drill holes and angle the holes on the spray line so they point 45 degrees toward the opposite bottom corner (so if you mount the lines on the top left, they would spray to the bottom right corner).
It works by creating a jet of water that sprays into the opposite bottom corner, creating lots of mist when it hits the corner/wall and it also creates bubbles in the thin film of water running along the bottom of the tube.
I actually designed mine to just use the General Hydroponics Aeroflo spray lines, instead of pvc. The GH spray lines come in either 4’ or 6’ lengths, are like $7 a piece and easily replaceable if (when) they start to clog. They’re made of some type of cheap flexible tubing. They attach to a manifold via garden hose thread.
- So then I created a pvc manifold to attach them to. It uses 1x1x1 T’s and 1” pvc. In the bottom of the T I use a 3/4 slip to MHT (male hose thread). Then I attach the manifold directly to a pump (with 1” pvc pipe) that sits in the reservoir below. I use a 900gph magdrive pump to create lots of mist (I have a water chiller for res temps) and I just leave it on 24/7. I’ve found the constant on-off cycles of the pump just burn the pumps out much quicker. You can also use the inline feature of the pump and install it outside of your reservoir if you’re worried about water temps.
- I also changed the way the grow tubes drain into the reservoir. I capped both ends of the square grow tubes (fence posts), and on the end that sits on top of the reservoir I just drilled a 2” drain hole (w/a rubber grommet to make it waterproof) that I slip a piece of PVC pipe into that runs directly back into the reservoir. The fence post grow tubes are elevated very slightly to run back toward the res.
Using the drain tubes also allows you to control the depth of the water in the grow tubes. If you raise the drain tubes, the water level in the tube raises too (though I always just keep them even with the bottom of the tube). But you could use it more DWC style if you wanted, with the water spray lines/jets creating the bubbles in the grow tube.
- the plants sit in 3 inch net cups filled with lava rocks. I’ve also tried planting directly in neoprene collars/rings, but I found that the plants are much more stable in the net cups.
Each tube has 6x 3in holes, but I usually only use every other site (so 3 per 4’ tube).
I run a much lower PPM than StinkBud. I find I get my best results when I don’t go above 500-600 ppm. It may sound low but I’ve found that’s all that’s required in this machine.
I get Better yield, MUCH better taste. Burns cleaner. Ive found that I don’t need anything higher than that in this system. I used to run the ppm anywhere from 1000-1800, but now I never get above 750 or 800 on rare occasion. Usually it stays around 500, peaking around 600.
I found a base nutrient line that calls for 5ml a gallon (a&b or 3 part). This way it gives me my target ppm and also stays at a stable ph. I was finding that trying to run some of these base nutrients that call for 15+ml/gl at a lower ppm gave me wild ph fluctuations. You can also just use something like the H&G ph stabilizer if massive ph swings are an issue at lower ppm’s.
A couple other tricks I’ve found to get a better taste in aero -
- I just run a simple nute schedule and keep the ppm’s low. Your base nutrient, your beneficials if you run a live res, or a product like Zone (chloramine) if you run a sterile/dead res, Floralicious (for that organic matter to give it taste), and a bud booster (liquid koolbloom is cheap and what I usually use). I tried running all these complex nutrient lines with tons of different additives, but
- I’ve also played around with adding some liquid bat guano poured through a cheesecloth/strainer (to keep any solids out). I love the flavor bat guano adds.
- Letting the ph go through a full swing from 5.5 to 6.3 (or 6.5), before bringing it back down to 5.5. I notice a better taste when I do this.
- I put a pack of those seed starter pellets inside a few nylon stockings (or multiple socks - you don’t want the gunk leaking out) and let it float in the reservoir. It gives it a bit of that soil taste IMO.
I look forward to joining the discussions on this forum!
Last edited:
polishpollack
Well-Known Member
You probably get good results with lower ppm as a result of great oxygen exposure. I'm familiar with Stinkbuds stuff. Why do you drift between 500 and 800 ppm as that is quite a difference?
TeddyNugget
Member
Yes, i’m not 100% sure but believe it’s the higher oxygen + the tiny water droplets it creates. The plants grow tons of tiny root hairs that can easily absorb the nutrient droplets/mist.
I’ve run a # of different systems/styles (soil, soilless, passive hydro, top feed drip, flood&drain, dwc) and nothing matched the daily growth rates of this machine when it’s dialed in.
As far as ppm, It’s really strain dependent. I almost never go over 5-600 ppm (600 at peak flower) but there are a couple strains I run that are very heavy feeders and don’t do as well at 500ppm. And some strains I don’t take over 500 ppm even in peak flower.
But in general, most seem to do best around 500ppm or so, so it’s a good place to start IMO.
The plants can handle higher ppm (I used to just follow the nutrient company’s feed charts and run every strain at 1200+ppm (in flower) when I first started many years ago) but I’ve found that they just don’t need it. I try to use as little as possible now, and if I don’t see a noticeable difference when using a new nutrient/supplement, I just don’t use it.
polishpollack
Well-Known Member
Can you put up pics of your system and some descriptions, like sprayers your using, pump per hour rate, tubing sizes, lighting, etc?
Veek da Freak
Well-Known Member
I'm looking for information about adjusting the timing and length of the nutrient solution delivery according to the flowering stage of cannabis in aero/nft systems. Is there any rough guidelines to follow? Has anyone adjusted their timing, and irrigation lengths to less frequent, and shorter irrigation once the roots are very well established in the fence post systems, and found it to benefit their plants? I'm curious if it is advantageous to budding plants to do so. My leaves are almost all straight up, which is usually a good sign, but the edges of the leaves are somewhat curled inwards. If I remember correctly this is a sign that they may be getting too much irrigation, or overwatering. Can anybody give me some help with this please?
Seems like i just learned hydroponics, this seems even cooler than a rdwc,
Am i able to build this equipment cheap or do i have to buy it cause it seems expensive -.-
Powertech
Well-Known Member
Provide me a lb every three weeks and i'll video document me smoking all of it in the allotted amount of time.....easily
polishpollack
Well-Known Member
If you want cheap, stick with DWC.
Voidling
Well-Known Member
The rails you make from pvc, fairly cheap.
To go all in with AC, water chiller, hooded lights with heat extraction, adds up quick
BleedsGreen
Well-Known Member
all depends on your climate, in my basement I do not need AC or chillers so huge cost savings right there. Although in winter growth slows to a crawl because the basement isn't heated.
polishpollack
Well-Known Member
Find him, write him, and ask.
Cheese_fish
New Member
What timer do you run your pumps on? I can't find anything with more that 20 on/off functions per day... a lot more is needed for me to be able to run 1min or 5min off.