GH Trio RO and mag deficiency...

ok so I changed my system out, took 3 full bins of RO, did 2 together and then ad to add another because it wasn't enough! I set each bin at 0.2EC cal-mag and GH nutes 3-2-1 to a full EC of 0.85, pumped my system out and the new in and already about an hour later I can see a difference! they were growing before but nothing like they should have been! it seems that the 0.2EC is needed with RO and people saying that you don't need it are wrong!

noob12345 said:

and GH nutes 3-2-1

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what is that? never heard of 321 for GH

Man Im about to move hoping water is good up north and if we never lose power lol may run dwc.
I believe he went 3 parts grow, 2 parts micro, and 1 part bloom.

rkymtnman said:

what is that? never heard of 321 for GH

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3-2-1 is the ratio for grow - micro - bloom in veg example = 60ml grow, 40ml micro, 20ml bloom

its working a treat but I discovered the main problem today, my PH pen is f*cked, was reading 1 whole point above and refused to recalibrate so I lost my temper with it and smashed it against the wall, just ordered 2 cheap ones from ebay that you can set with screwdriver for now!

noob12345 said:

3-2-1 is the ratio for grow - micro - bloom in veg example = 60ml grow, 40ml micro, 20ml bloom

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interesting, never heard of that. have you used it before? i've used the trio before and thought that a 1:1:1 ratio was better for vegging. might have to try 321 sometime. what do you switch to for flowering?

This is an example of PPM breakdown based on the GH feed chart for DTW - ML per gallon.


What's going into your mix? ML per gallon.

I use EC not ML/gallon and the 3-2-1 ratio is on the gh charts on the bottle.

rkymtnman said:

no issues with root rot too?

and you should try running 24/0 for veg on one of your upcoming grows. it will cut down on your veg time.

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Any data supporting this claim? A plant vegging under 24/7 is a overly stressed plant. There's a lot of things going on in the dark period. Root development, quality and yield will suffer from my experience.

I ran 24/7 when I started growing like most other do. I get a healthier and more fragrant plant with 18/6. The level of cannabinoids will be lower before entering flowering with 24/7. The logical thing may seem to be that 24/7 is faster, it's not.

My problem turned out to be my stupid Adwa PH pen had gone up by a whole point and then refused to re-calibrate so I binned it and have ordered manual calibration cheap ones, at the mo im using drops but the girls have really picked up since I discovered the problem! they are showing some cal-mag def but its minor, im guessing its because I was at only 0.9 EC while I was waiting for seedlings to catch up, I have today upped them to 1.2
EC to hopefully get them going even quicker!

Wastei said:

Any data supporting this claim?

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Cannabis is a C3 plant which doesn't require a dark period.
Shorter node lengths.
Easier to maintain RH and temps.
Bulbs last longer not being turned off and on.
6 hours of dark per day is 42 hours a week they arent' photosynthesizing. Over a 3 week veg cycle, that's 126 hours or 5+ days.

Wastei said:

The level of cannabinoids will be lower before entering flowering with 24/7

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Any data supporting this claim?

rkymtnman said:

Cannabis is a C3 plant which doesn't require a dark period.
Shorter node lengths.
Easier to maintain RH and temps.
Bulbs last longer not being turned off and on.
6 hours of dark per day is 42 hours a week they arent' photosynthesizing. Over a 3 week veg cycle, that's 126 hours or 5+ days.

Any data supporting this claim?

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I don't know about bulbs lasting longer. Maybe with a digital ballast. They light the bulbs to aggressively. Of course a C3 plant doesn't require a dark period to survive. But if we are going to talk optimal climate and circumstances, it's needed. Cannabis need a dark period for highest potency. We can really discuss this all day.

I've done side by side by side grows back in the days to confirm this. Same bulbs and clones from the same mom. It's not that hard to spot a superior root development by looking at the roots. The bigger the roots, the bigger the fruit!

I don't think commercial growers on a industrial scale are wrong. If you got problems with the temps. Just buy a heater with a termostat, problem solved.

Wastei said:

Cannabis need a dark period for highest potency. We can really discuss this all day

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Dark period has nothing to do with potency. Unless you can link a study, i'm gonna file this under Bro-science.

And as far as roots go, my hydrofarms have a tightly packed cube of roots every grow with 24/0.

rkymtnman said:

Dark period has nothing to do with potency. Unless you can link a study, i'm gonna file this under Bro-science.

And as far as roots go, my hydrofarms have a tightly packed cube of roots every grow with 24/0.

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I may be wrong. It's like you say it's just my own observations. Same goes for 24/0 I guess. It all comes down to cost at the end of the day

Wastei said:

I may be wrong. It's like you say it's just my own observations. Same goes for 24/0 I guess. It all comes down to cost at the end of the day

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i've tried almost every light cycle for veg and i always come back to 24/0. just suits me better.
and for potency, i kinda lean towards that's part of genetics, not environment.

many ways to get to the same finish line.

Less is More!

Thing about running 20/4 veg is the plants benefit from the dark period. If you have plants growing fast under strong lighting, somewhere around 14 - 15 hours of light you might notice they start drooping their leaves down angling them away from the light instead of angling upward towards the light. That means they are tired basically. Giving them some rest, I believe is good. That said 24/0 works, I have done it. Whenever the lights come on I always notice fresh light green growth at the tops that was produced overnight and greens up with light. As to the plants actually growing faster, maybe a tiny bit but IME not worth paying for 6 hours a day more light bill.