For all new growers with questions... Tons of information and answers..

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
the only thing i dont like about them is cost.. they are kind of expensive.. i guess that also depends on the size you get.. but for 2 gallon buckets it would cost me 150 or so to get inserts for all my plants.. plus it doesnt seem they are reusable.. but in the end results out weigh cost...[/QUOTE]


Right on, thanks for the input. The 4" blocks are only like a buck or 2 more than rockwool. So think I might try both & see which works best.

Another issue I have never touched on was Co2. Right now the whole tank & regulator thing seem a bit excessive for my little tent.

I have a Baskin Robins right near my work. They sell dry ice for like 20cents/ per lb.

What are your thoughts on just creating some jury-rigged large plastic bottles & letin the dry ice defrost all day?

Thanks again for everything!
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
i have issues with co2 enrichment.. mainly that the room needs to be sealed and temps controlled during a period of time where the exhaust is turned off... all while the lights are on..

its like this... if you have to run the exhaust all the time to keep temps down then its not worth running co2 because it will just get pulled out of the room via the exhaust... so thats the first issue to contend with...

the other option is to have a cycle for both the co2 and exhaust.. something like the exhaust runs for 30 and is off for 30... and while its off co2 enrichment occurs.. when it comes on the co2 supply stops to quit wasting it.. and so on...

with that being said here is what i'll say to you... i think the dry ice would cost far more in the long run and wouldnt get co2 levels high enough to be worth it... there are other ways of making homeade co2 that are a lot more effective, such as brewers yeast and sugar....

if you want to use co2 enrichment, your best off getting a regulator and a tank you can refill.. this way you can adjust the timing so you arent wasting money and are assured to reach proper co2 ppm levels...

but in the meantime rigging something homeade up is completely fine..
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
taking clones is pretty simple...

first here is what you will need...

1) something to cut with.. a razor or an exacto knife work best... the sharper the better
2) some rubbing alcohol
3) rooting gel or powder
4) rooting medium


to take a cutting:

1) select the branch you want to use as a cutting... the closer to the bottom of the plant the better.. ideally you want a solid stem with at least 3 or 4 sets of nodes.. 6 to 8 inches tall is good..

2) dip your cutting instrument in rubbing alcohol to starilize it.. cut through the stem at a 45 degree angle to remove the cutting.. the cleaner the cut the better..

3) gently scrape away the outside layer of flesh from the bottom 1/2 to 1 inch of the cutting... you just want to be able to see the fleshy interior of the stem...

4) cut the stem vertically at the bottom the length of the scraped area...

5) dip cutting into rooting power or gel... make sure to thoroughly coat the entire cut area

6) place into rooting medium... if you are using rooting cubes or rockwool you want to make sure the cubes are moist, not wet... moist is good.. wet is not.. you may also want to soak the rooting cubes in cloning hormones prior to placing the cutting in as well

7) place cutting under humidity dome with 24/0 lighting.... if you dont have a humidity dome you will want to mist the clones a couple times a day until they start forming roots..

in 7 to 10 days you should have roots enough to transplant....
 

haha555

Member
AMAZINGLY helpfull but just one question how exactly do u clone?
well with pot it should be the same but what you need to do is cut a part of a plant you want to clone in a / eagle then put that cuting in a cloning solution(clonex) then put it in a peat pellets or cloning cube(clonex) then put it in say mini green house then spray with water have a light right above the mini green house and there u go but thats how i would do it simsonsamson420 probably has a better way tho:-P
 

haha555

Member
i try a but so im use this light called nurturelite plant lamp it says it promote plant growth just what to if it was a bad idea to get or good idea?
 

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
hey sampson, could you give me an idea of how long sprouted beans (maximum & minimum times in days) that they stay in the rooters?

Like, what is the shortest amount of days you ever had a seedling go from germ. in rooter, thru ready to be transplanted to other media. & how do ya ascertain when that sacred moment is.

And out of curiousity, what would be the absolute longest that a seedling could stay in a rooter be?

I mean, are we lookin for roots to be stickin out in all directions from the bottom of those plugs, or is there a certain height the seedling is, when ya just know when to transplant?

Just lookin for what ur key identifiers are when deciding that rooters have been in propagation tray long enough.

Sorry for askin that 5 different ways & many many thanks!
 

haha555

Member
its also 75w i have it on the timer for 18/6 but its like a blue bulb that lights up white its says 120v on the bottom it kind looks like a flood light but its not
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
i try a but so im use this light called nurturelite plant lamp it says it promote plant growth just what to if it was a bad idea to get or good idea?
its also 75w i have it on the timer for 18/6 but its like a blue bulb that lights up white its says 120v on the bottom it kind looks like a flood light but its not
its ok to use.. it wont give you great results.. you would need a couple more of them to get any real results.. but for the moment it will suffice... those types of grow lights dont work very well..


hey sampson, could you give me an idea of how long sprouted beans (maximum & minimum times in days) that they stay in the rooters?

Like, what is the shortest amount of days you ever had a seedling go from germ. in rooter, thru ready to be transplanted to other media. & how do ya ascertain when that sacred moment is.

And out of curiousity, what would be the absolute longest that a seedling could stay in a rooter be?

I mean, are we lookin for roots to be stickin out in all directions from the bottom of those plugs, or is there a certain height the seedling is, when ya just know when to transplant?

Just lookin for what ur key identifiers are when deciding that rooters have been in propagation tray long enough.

Sorry for askin that 5 different ways & many many thanks!
i always just soak my seeds and put them into the rooting cubes.. i dont paper towel..

it takes 2 to 5 days to get them all to pop usually.. the closer to 24 hours you can let the seeds soak before the cubes the sooner things will happen...

then its usually 4 to 5 days before there are enough roots popping out of the cube to be good to go... once you see roots at 5 or 6 spots on the cube your good to go..
 

haha555

Member
its also 75w i have it on the timer for 18/6 but its like a blue bulb that lights up white its says 120v on the bottom it kind looks like a flood light but its not
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
if temps are ok outside then you can do that yea... you'll get the best results.. better than just using that bulb all the way through...
 

1982

Member
can some one show me pics of a mature hermi and is it true you can cut the male branches of to save the plant on a female dominent plant
 

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
i always just soak my seeds and put them into the rooting cubes.. i dont paper towel..

it takes 2 to 5 days to get them all to pop usually.. the closer to 24 hours you can let the seeds soak before the cubes the sooner things will happen...

then its usually 4 to 5 days before there are enough roots popping out of the cube to be good to go... once you see roots at 5 or 6 spots on the cube your good to go..[/QUOTE]


Right on, thanks bro!
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
can some one show me pics of a mature hermi and is it true you can cut the male branches of to save the plant on a female dominent plant
i cant show you a pic of a hermie as i dont have one..

but a hermie is easily identifiable... you will clearly see yellowish colored pollen sacs that look like bananas sticking out of the flowers or male pollen sacs that look like grape clusters....

and yes, you can remove the pollen sacs to keep the plant from self pollinating...

i always just soak my seeds and put them into the rooting cubes.. i dont paper towel..

it takes 2 to 5 days to get them all to pop usually.. the closer to 24 hours you can let the seeds soak before the cubes the sooner things will happen...

then its usually 4 to 5 days before there are enough roots popping out of the cube to be good to go... once you see roots at 5 or 6 spots on the cube your good to go..

Right on, thanks bro![/QUOTE]

no prob my brotha..
 

thegripper

Active Member
Quick question with lighting. Im starting my first small stealth grow just wana make sure i got this correct. Should i be using a blue halide light during the veg stage and then switch to a sodium light during flowering?

Also i watched your youtube video and noticed you didnt use soil. So can i use the same nutrients as you for my grow? If so can you tell me what nutes you use?

Thanks man appreciate all the help.
 

jdizzle22

Well-Known Member
To post an update. I just got done watering my plants for the first time since it was decided they were running low on nitrogen and needed to start using Grow Big. I last watered them the morning of the 15th and it is now about 1:15pm on the 17th. I took a cooking pot and filled with with 8 cups of distilled water and put in 1/8th a teaspoon of Grow big. I then took the sickly Alma and dropped her in, unfortunately it was not deep enough haha so I took a small cup and scooped up some water and poured it over the top and repeated this for 1 minute then took her out. Wiped her cup down and used my finger to remove most of the dew on her leafs and stem and helped her finish dripping out the bottom by repeatedly touching the holes in her cup with my finger. She got up to 250 grams which is 70 grams more than shes ever gotten with a watering. I then took the left over water and fed it to Berri (in honor of Berri from Conkers Bad Fur Day) and Abby by pouring it onto the top of their soil and brought them up to the same weight I normally do when watering. They do not seem sickly but they've been out of the dirt for just over 2 weeks, and I believe that Berri is just beginning to yellow on the tips of her first real pair. Hopefully this all turns out well.

I must say that a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon seems incredibly small. Would it really be that bad if I fed them all enhanced water each time I water them? I can go 3 days normally (today i didn't want to let Alma's leafs get any worse without trying to feed them), and it doesn't seem like that is too much. Although I don't know a whole lot about the limits involved with nutrient lock out and what not, so maybe it is too much. They were never quite full in their party cups, now I've actually cut the top inch or 2 off so its level with the soil. Dry they should weigh about 90 grams and I usually add another 90 grams of water (which if water is about 240 grams per cup means they hold about 1/3rd a cup of water right after each watering. Any thoughts/comments?
 

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
Sampson, me brova, I really wil do my best to no bug ya on a daily basis like this. Only 1 (?) so far for today!

What do you feel the PH should be for the water I intend to soak the rooters in?

The reason I ask, is cause I have a bunch of distilled water. However, I have done several different tests, from several different containers & I keep coming up with 7.2 to 7.6

Frm evthin I recall reading, it states that hydro environments are best in the 5.5-6.5 range.

Should I throw some PH down in to distilled water to get PH down to round 6.0 before adding root 66 to soaking solution for rooters?

You truly are the man, thanks for evthing!
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
Quick question with lighting. Im starting my first small stealth grow just wana make sure i got this correct. Should i be using a blue halide light during the veg stage and then switch to a sodium light during flowering?

Also i watched your youtube video and noticed you didnt use soil. So can i use the same nutrients as you for my grow? If so can you tell me what nutes you use?

Thanks man appreciate all the help.
you can use HPS lighting the entire way through if you want.. but if you want to you can use a metal halide for veg and hps for flower...

yes, you can use all the same nutes i am using if you want...

i am using general hydroponics 3 part flora system
general hydroponics floralicious gro and bloom
botanicare liquid karma
advanced nutes grandmas engy f1, carbload, big bud, bud blood, bud candy


To post an update. I just got done watering my plants for the first time since it was decided they were running low on nitrogen and needed to start using Grow Big. I last watered them the morning of the 15th and it is now about 1:15pm on the 17th. I took a cooking pot and filled with with 8 cups of distilled water and put in 1/8th a teaspoon of Grow big. I then took the sickly Alma and dropped her in, unfortunately it was not deep enough haha so I took a small cup and scooped up some water and poured it over the top and repeated this for 1 minute then took her out. Wiped her cup down and used my finger to remove most of the dew on her leafs and stem and helped her finish dripping out the bottom by repeatedly touching the holes in her cup with my finger. She got up to 250 grams which is 70 grams more than shes ever gotten with a watering. I then took the left over water and fed it to Berri (in honor of Berri from Conkers Bad Fur Day) and Abby by pouring it onto the top of their soil and brought them up to the same weight I normally do when watering. They do not seem sickly but they've been out of the dirt for just over 2 weeks, and I believe that Berri is just beginning to yellow on the tips of her first real pair. Hopefully this all turns out well.

I must say that a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon seems incredibly small. Would it really be that bad if I fed them all enhanced water each time I water them? I can go 3 days normally (today i didn't want to let Alma's leafs get any worse without trying to feed them), and it doesn't seem like that is too much. Although I don't know a whole lot about the limits involved with nutrient lock out and what not, so maybe it is too much. They were never quite full in their party cups, now I've actually cut the top inch or 2 off so its level with the soil. Dry they should weigh about 90 grams and I usually add another 90 grams of water (which if water is about 240 grams per cup means they hold about 1/3rd a cup of water right after each watering. Any thoughts/comments?
i would recommend watering 1 more time with 1/4 strength.. then move up to 1/2... then full.. i would feed one more time with 1/4 strength, then plain water, then 1/2 strength, then plain water, then full, and alternate from then on out..

everything else sounds ok... how much water your plant will hold by weight doesnt really mean much... just make sure they are throughly being watered when you do...

Sampson, me brova, I really wil do my best to no bug ya on a daily basis like this. Only 1 (?) so far for today!

What do you feel the PH should be for the water I intend to soak the rooters in?

The reason I ask, is cause I have a bunch of distilled water. However, I have done several different tests, from several different containers & I keep coming up with 7.2 to 7.6

Frm evthin I recall reading, it states that hydro environments are best in the 5.5-6.5 range.

Should I throw some PH down in to distilled water to get PH down to round 6.0 before adding root 66 to soaking solution for rooters?

You truly are the man, thanks for evthing!
when it comes to seeds and rooting cuttings i never check the ph of the water i soak with or mist with.. mainly because in the long run it isnt enough to make a big difference... i make sure larger amount of water that are actually used to water are ph'd out.. but rooting cubes dont matter...

if you are worried though you can ph the water out.. that'd be fine.. but i have personally never had an issue with it...
 

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
[/QUOTE]when it comes to seeds and rooting cuttings i never check the ph of the water i soak with or mist with.. mainly because in the long run it isnt enough to make a big difference... i make sure larger amount of water that are actually used to water are ph'd out.. but rooting cubes dont matter...

if you are worried though you can ph the water out.. that'd be fine.. but i have personally never had an issue with it...[/QUOTE]

Perfect, right in time too!

Soakin now. Decided to just use the distilled @ 7.0 w/ the appropriate amount of root 66. You're the shiz my brotha. "Your my wing man goose". Thats actually more family guy refernce than top gun. got that shiz is funny. anyway, back to it. THANK YOU ME BROVA!
 
Top