FLUSHING

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
here is a great read by @qwizoking

my thoughts on flushing...at the end of harvest
I use the "worst" nutes you can buy,
but I know how nutes effect the plant and burn qualities so I only look at types of nutes and ratios.no crackling here and black ash is a bad cure

When wood is heated anaerobically, it turns black as the water is driven off, leaving charcoal, or carbon, behind. When charcoal burns in air, the carbon combines with oxygen, producing carbon dioxide gas. But if you have ever used a charcoal grill,you will noticed that charcoal turns white as it burns. This white ash is what remains of the non-flammable minerals which were present in the wood to begin with. You don't really notice them until the carbon has burned away. These ashes have a composition which varies according to the kind of wood and the soil in which it grew, and it is this variable composition which marks ash as a mixture rather than apure substance.
Ash is literally the nutes.
that anaerobic burning is what causes butane lighters to produce soot or that black stuff if you put the flame under something, propane burns wonderfully clean but as you add carbon it needs more oxygen, as you go up it won't burn properly unless you add an oxidizer.. this is also why BIC lighters are only about 500 degrees instead of 3500 or whatever butane likes to burn at..(bics design limits oxygen,if you have a torch for dabbing with an adjuster you know what I'm talking about)

...flushing is debated alot around here but its proven that it doesn't lower nutes in your bud it causes the plant to form an abscission layer in the fan leaves(Google it) to preserve nutes in the bud, you'll notice the bud is last to yellow...
The white ash is literally the nutes and nutes are actually good and improve the burn qualities,yes my ash burns to white..potassium for example expands when hot and helps it burn much more efficiently.. calcium adds weight and mass to the ash while making it whiter but too much makes it flakey.. sulphur ,ammonical n and chlorinated nutes negatively impact burn qualities etc etc I mean the tobacco industry laid it all out for us already, we just have to modify how we cure as we are dealing with volatile compounds and understanding what we are after isn't anitrate but phosphate(terpenes come from phosphates). No other crop is flushed including tobacco so that you get the best burn, yield and quality..the cure is very important But fresh herb barely dry enough to smoke with no cure doesn't crackle much except for the moisture and resin but leaves it black Flushing is counterproductive imo and only serves to foxtail my landrace Sativas

the cure is important and the fowl taste associated with not flushing is simply a poor cure..a harsh hot acrid taste is from burning starches and chlorophyll....also associated with newbs overfeeding making the cure that much harder..keeping the plant moist enough to stay alive and still maintain gas transfer..through this natural process of hydrolysis and respiration the components are broken down and becomes smooth..this process is known as the cure

Night and day difference in curing ..
Reduction in Chlorophyll content, doesn't taste like smoking veggies
Reduction in plant starch content,and sugars, creating a smooth smoke that will just expand nicely in your lungs, won't even feel it go down
Reduction in nitrate levels,less carcinogenic, always good right and cleaner tasting/cleaner feeling high
polycyclic aromatization and oxidation of terpenoids altering the flavor profile more robust with a higher ppm sensory threshold , less perfumey even soapy or "green" from corresponding aldehydes and ketones
Reduction of and consistent moisture content, even slow burn and no smoldering or black ash unwilling to burn
 

MightyGreen

Member
Well my thought about it was that by depriving nutes i simulate autumn, so that the plants now death is immediate and that they put all there last reserves into blooming to reproduce. Im currently in the making of a new cab and switching to hydro, i might give it a try but i always ended up with top knotch weed and around 0,6 to 0,9gpw (strain and season depending, no ac).
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
The best and easiest way to flush is after the chop. Stick the plant(s) in reverse osmosis water for twenty-four hours. The average plant will suck up about .5 litres of water during this process. I trim all the large fans before the chop. I feel that this plays an important factor in taste also.
Take longer to dry eh? Your not removing anything you know!

here is a great read by @qwizoking

my thoughts on flushing...at the end of harvest
I use the "worst" nutes you can buy,
but I know how nutes effect the plant and burn qualities so I only look at types of nutes and ratios.no crackling here and black ash is a bad cure

When wood is heated anaerobically, it turns black as the water is driven off, leaving charcoal, or carbon, behind. When charcoal burns in air, the carbon combines with oxygen, producing carbon dioxide gas. But if you have ever used a charcoal grill,you will noticed that charcoal turns white as it burns. This white ash is what remains of the non-flammable minerals which were present in the wood to begin with. You don't really notice them until the carbon has burned away. These ashes have a composition which varies according to the kind of wood and the soil in which it grew, and it is this variable composition which marks ash as a mixture rather than apure substance.
Ash is literally the nutes.
that anaerobic burning is what causes butane lighters to produce soot or that black stuff if you put the flame under something, propane burns wonderfully clean but as you add carbon it needs more oxygen, as you go up it won't burn properly unless you add an oxidizer.. this is also why BIC lighters are only about 500 degrees instead of 3500 or whatever butane likes to burn at..(bics design limits oxygen,if you have a torch for dabbing with an adjuster you know what I'm talking about)

...flushing is debated alot around here but its proven that it doesn't lower nutes in your bud it causes the plant to form an abscission layer in the fan leaves(Google it) to preserve nutes in the bud, you'll notice the bud is last to yellow...
The white ash is literally the nutes and nutes are actually good and improve the burn qualities,yes my ash burns to white..potassium for example expands when hot and helps it burn much more efficiently.. calcium adds weight and mass to the ash while making it whiter but too much makes it flakey.. sulphur ,ammonical n and chlorinated nutes negatively impact burn qualities etc etc I mean the tobacco industry laid it all out for us already, we just have to modify how we cure as we are dealing with volatile compounds and understanding what we are after isn't anitrate but phosphate(terpenes come from phosphates). No other crop is flushed including tobacco so that you get the best burn, yield and quality..the cure is very important But fresh herb barely dry enough to smoke with no cure doesn't crackle much except for the moisture and resin but leaves it black Flushing is counterproductive imo and only serves to foxtail my landrace Sativas

the cure is important and the fowl taste associated with not flushing is simply a poor cure..a harsh hot acrid taste is from burning starches and chlorophyll....also associated with newbs overfeeding making the cure that much harder..keeping the plant moist enough to stay alive and still maintain gas transfer..through this natural process of hydrolysis and respiration the components are broken down and becomes smooth..this process is known as the cure

Night and day difference in curing ..
Reduction in Chlorophyll content, doesn't taste like smoking veggies
Reduction in plant starch content,and sugars, creating a smooth smoke that will just expand nicely in your lungs, won't even feel it go down
Reduction in nitrate levels,less carcinogenic, always good right and cleaner tasting/cleaner feeling high
polycyclic aromatization and oxidation of terpenoids altering the flavor profile more robust with a higher ppm sensory threshold , less perfumey even soapy or "green" from corresponding aldehydes and ketones
Reduction of and consistent moisture content, even slow burn and no smoldering or black ash unwilling to burn
DING DING DING!!!!! Quiz and Chuck get a cigar!!!! I just bookmarked this for the future (there will be many more) flush lovers

True, but i can do everything to further improve the uptake of the nutrients the plant has stored. BTW i definitly taste a difference to the weed i grew and that of a friend of mine that flushs 1 week prior harvest (cuts from the same mother)
It was the cure/the way grown/the cure. That's right cure typed twice.....READ the above.

Doc
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
Well my thought about it was that by depriving nutes i simulate autumn, so that the plants now death is immediate and that they put all there last reserves into blooming to reproduce. Im currently in the making of a new cab and switching to hydro, i might give it a try but i always ended up with top knotch weed and around 0,6 to 0,9gpw (strain and season depending, no ac).
does having 12 hours of synthetic light directly above the plant simulate anything in nature? Does keeping the plant from pollinating simulate nature?
 

BDOGKush

Well-Known Member
Well my thought about it was that by depriving nutes i simulate autumn, so that the plants now death is immediate and that they put all there last reserves into blooming to reproduce. Im currently in the making of a new cab and switching to hydro, i might give it a try but i always ended up with top knotch weed and around 0,6 to 0,9gpw (strain and season depending, no ac).
But the leaf fade noticed in Autumn is not caused by a lack of available nutrients. It's a lack of light and water that halts photosynthesis and causes a plant to stop producing chlorophyll. You're getting autumn like colors but for completely different reasons.
 

Bacala

Well-Known Member
But the leaf fade noticed in Autumn is not caused by a lack of available nutrients. It's a lack of light and water that halts photosynthesis and causes a plant to stop producing chlorophyll. You're getting autumn like colors but for completely different reasons.
Exactly what I was thinking. A plant's "calendar" is driven by light, not nutrients that don't change in nature as Autumn arrives.
 

BDOGKush

Well-Known Member
Exactly what I was thinking. A plant's "calendar" is driven by light, not nutrients that don't change in nature as Autumn arrives.
It's also a survival instinct for perennial deciduous trees.

You could just cut nitrogen out of your feeding schedule, keep feeding potassium and phosphorous and end up with the same color fade you get from flushing because your plant will stop producing chlorophyll.

Reds and purples are caused by anthocyanin forming from glucose sugars breaking down and it's been shown that the plants cell fluid PH determines the color variation from anthocyanin with a more acidic ph producing red hues and a more alkaline ph producing blues. Hydrangea is a good example of this where an acidic ph medium will give you pink flowers and alkaline gives you blue.

Purple strains have a genetic trait that allows them to convert glucous to anthocyanin at a greater rate than other strains.

Every plant has its own combination of chlorophyll, caretenoids (where your gold and yellow pigments come from) and potential for anthocyanin production. It's the deterioration of clorophyll that allows them to come out.

You can get these results naturally without starving your plant and causing deficiencies.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
But the leaf fade noticed in Autumn is not caused by a lack of available nutrients. It's a lack of light and water that halts photosynthesis and causes a plant to stop producing chlorophyll. You're getting autumn like colors but for completely different reasons.
Exactly what I was thinking. A plant's "calendar" is driven by light, not nutrients that don't change in nature as Autumn arrives.
It's also a survival instinct for perennial deciduous trees.

You could just cut nitrogen out of your feeding schedule, keep feeding potassium and phosphorous and end up with the same color fade you get from flushing because your plant will stop producing chlorophyll.

Reds and purples are caused by anthocyanin forming from glucose sugars breaking down and it's been shown that the plants cell fluid PH determines the color variation from anthocyanin with a more acidic ph producing red hues and a more alkaline ph producing blues. Hydrangea is a good example of this where an acidic ph medium will give you pink flowers and alkaline gives you blue.

Purple strains have a genetic trait that allows them to convert glucous to anthocyanin at a greater rate than other strains.

Every plant has its own combination of chlorophyll, caretenoids (where your gold and yellow pigments come from) and potential for anthocyanin production. It's the deterioration of clorophyll that allows them to come out.

You can get these results naturally without starving your plant and causing deficiencies.
Took the words right outa me mouth mon!

More cigars handed out!

Doc
 
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