Flush or feed?

Bdogg90

Member
Hello,

I seem to be having a bit of an issue with my 3 bears OG 7 week old from seed autoflower. She's performed nicely up until about a week ago when she developed some Brown spots. I figured it was a bit of nutrient burn due to being noticeable after a 600 ppm feeding with introduced fox farm flowering nutrients. I'm not so sure now due to the plant showing noticeable new yellowing. She was last fed four days ago, which brought total ppm up to 1050. She's been fine in that range before. During the stretch, about 100 ppm were consumed every day. Assuming 100 or more ppm are being consumed on a daily bases, still, she would be sitting at 600 ppm currently. Now that I'm typing this out, I'm leaning towards she needs a spike in nutrients, however, run off PH last measured at 5.6, down from 6.4. PH, which is a bit low. The slurry test that was conducted during the start of flowering, revealed a 5.5 soil ph but the ppm was way wrong. She's in a mix of tree frog, ffof, and perilite and have been following the fox farm nutrient schedule at a quarter dose minus the kelp stuff. I used 13 essentials as a foiler feed and also added cal mag into my feedings. Any suggestions?
 

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MrGreenFingers99

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply. Do you think it would be better to accomplish raising the PH by flushing, or adding in some dolomolite powder?
I'm a hydro grower so dont want to give bad advice so maybe wait for a soil pro to chime in but I see flushing as a last resort, personally I would feed with a higher ph solution maybe like 7.5 for next feedings until it raises the ph, feed to run off to wash out any salt build up

Also not sure about the lime but I think there are some which are slow release and quick release so at this stage you would need to add the quick release stuff if you were going to use it
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
A lot of people overthink FFOF .... a simple solution is to top dress MORE FFOF instead of throwing the kitchen sink at a plant ... especially AUTOS. They are finicky at times so dumping this and that overwhelms a plant ready to finish in around 90 days ( average ).

Believe it or not , that auto could have been running on a FFOF base soil for a solid 6 weeks from start on water only .
With minor recharging of top dress. Autos hate feeding issues , they have no time to recover from any screw ups.

FFOF ( out of the bag is 6.3 ) ... no slurry crap needed. It needs some calmag added to every watering to keep everything running along. PH around 6.5 -6.7 ( flower stage ) and all is well. No bottle will fix an unbalanced soil with extra non essential additives.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Tip :

Next time you buy a bag of FFOF .... add EWC and a scoop of myco . Mix it well into the bag itself and you have a soil made even better. That’s the recipe for autos I use. Calmag in all watering , I use tap , no fancy BS water ( unless you have some really jacked up municipal water source ) ... and After week 2 of actual flower ( after stretch and preflower ) I add kelp to water to aid bloom ... No boosters or bloody molasses.

That’s it ....

No more bottled shit for me .
 

Bdogg90

Member
Tip :

Next time you buy a bag of FFOF .... add EWC and a scoop of myco . Mix it well into the bag itself and you have a soil made even better. That’s the recipe for autos I use. Calmag in all watering , I use tap , no fancy BS water ( unless you have some really jacked up municipal water source ) ... and After week 2 of actual flower ( after stretch and preflower ) I add kelp to water to aid bloom ... No boosters or bloody molasses.

That’s it ....

No more bottled shit for me .

Good to know, thanks. I'm thinking about going organic on my next grow. I'm about tired of bottled nutes myself. Would you agree that I should run a 7.5 pH feed through and see what happens?
 

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
Hello,

I seem to be having a bit of an issue with my 3 bears OG 7 week old from seed autoflower. She's performed nicely up until about a week ago when she developed some Brown spots. I figured it was a bit of nutrient burn due to being noticeable after a 600 ppm feeding with introduced fox farm flowering nutrients. I'm not so sure now due to the plant showing noticeable new yellowing. She was last fed four days ago, which brought total ppm up to 1050. She's been fine in that range before. During the stretch, about 100 ppm were consumed every day. Assuming 100 or more ppm are being consumed on a daily bases, still, she would be sitting at 600 ppm currently. Now that I'm typing this out, I'm leaning towards she needs a spike in nutrients, however, run off PH last measured at 5.6, down from 6.4. PH, which is a bit low. The slurry test that was conducted during the start of flowering, revealed a 5.5 soil ph but the ppm was way wrong. She's in a mix of tree frog, ffof, and perilite and have been following the fox farm nutrient schedule at a quarter dose minus the kelp stuff. I used 13 essentials as a foiler feed and also added cal mag into my feedings. Any suggestions?
Stop checking run off ph.
I think its cute that your doing slurry test to try and determine how much nutrients your plants are up taking. Why not just keep it simple and feed it a proper nutrient in the proper amount and quit trying to fuck with your head about bullshit.

You plant looks normal for this stage of growth and the brown spots aint because you fed it.
 

Bdogg90

Member
Stop checking run off ph.
I think its cute that your doing slurry test to try and determine how much nutrients your plants are up taking. Why not just keep it simple and feed it a proper nutrient in the proper amount and quit trying to fuck with your head about bullshit.

You plant looks normal for this stage of growth and the brown spots aint because you fed it.
Obviously got a problem here, so your suggesting just water at 6.5 with a proper nutrient? I only have fox farm nutes.
 
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Clumpyoyster

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply. Do you think it would be better to accomplish raising the PH by flushing, or adding in some dolomolite powder?
Accomplished by ph balancing whether it be up or down there are lots of products out there and that is one of the first thing people ignore is balancing there water after adding nutes. A little google research problem solved. Research before you grow
 

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
So what do you suggest for fixing my issue then
Proper nutrition meaning a balanced bloom nutrient not just some cal mag or something is what I mean. Nothing wrong with your fox farm nutes except that its over priced and sucks.

Water in at 6.5 and leave it alone maybe around 600 ppms and you should be good. Add microbes if you have them microbes regulate the ph at the root surface. Chasing ph run off is what noobs do.

Pick off the dead leaves they are done. leave it alone your not going to fix anything on these plants this late in the game, the plants look a few weeks from being done. And if you do you might make things worse, ride it out focus on the next set with the knowledge you got from this one.


And at the most add in some epsom salt cuz they do look mag deficient to the nutes but still keep the total about 650 ppms , say 500 of the fox nutes then 150 of epsom salt nutes.
 

Bdogg90

Member
Proper nutrition meaning a balanced bloom nutrient not just some cal mag or something is what I mean. Nothing wrong with your fox farm nutes except that its over priced and sucks.

Water in at 6.5 and leave it alone maybe around 600 ppms and you should be good. Add microbes if you have them microbes regulate the ph at the root surface. Chasing ph run off is what noobs do.

Pick off the dead leaves they are done. leave it alone your not going to fix anything on these plants this late in the game, the plants look a few weeks from being done. And if you do you might make things worse, ride it out focus on the next set with the knowledge you got from this one.


And at the most add in some epsom salt cuz they do look mag deficient to the nutes but still keep the total about 650 ppms , say 500 of the fox nutes then 150 of epsom salt nutes.
That's some soild advice. I'm going to do just that. In regards to the microbes, I have fox farm microbe brew, think that would do the trick? I just picked up some Epsom from the pharmacy, should the 500 ppm consist strictly of bloom nutes, or should grow big be mixed in as well per the feeding schedule? Sorry, I always have bad luck lol.
 

Bdogg90

Member
Proper nutrition meaning a balanced bloom nutrient not just some cal mag or something is what I mean. Nothing wrong with your fox farm nutes except that its over priced and sucks.

Water in at 6.5 and leave it alone maybe around 600 ppms and you should be good. Add microbes if you have them microbes regulate the ph at the root surface. Chasing ph run off is what noobs do.

Pick off the dead leaves they are done. leave it alone your not going to fix anything on these plants this late in the game, the plants look a few weeks from being done. And if you do you might make things worse, ride it out focus on the next set with the knowledge you got from this one.


And at the most add in some epsom salt cuz they do look mag deficient to the nutes but still keep the total about 650 ppms , say 500 of the fox nutes then 150 of epsom salt nutes.
Also the only reason I did a slurry was because it was suggested to me by an "experienced" grower lol.
 

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
That's some soild advice. I'm going to do just that. In regards to the microbes, I have fox farm microbe brew, think that would do the trick? I just picked up some Epsom from the pharmacy, should the 500 ppm consist strictly of bloom nutes, or should grow big be mixed in as well per the feeding schedule? Sorry, I always have bad luck lol.
Whatever you been giving it = bloom nutes, your flower recipe.

Sure mix up a brew and give it to it one time, that should be good till the chop. Better options put there to apply microbes quickly, on a more consistent basis.

doing a slurry test and testing ph run off is a bunch of bologna if you dont have a lab, the info you get makes you do dumb things chasing a number that doesnt mean anything. You grow by knowledge and experience and not because your run off has a ph of 7.0 or whatever the number is.

Focus on how to read a plant and with knowledge you can make adjustments when situations come forward and make those adjustments slowly. A stress free plant is a healthy plant.
 

Clumpyoyster

Well-Known Member
I’ve said it before and I agree with Bernie. Fox farm is big corporate and their products are inferior to even basic soil. Everyone that uses it always has problems. Usually to hot especially for little ones. Unless your hydro your ph should always be 6.5 and make sure to adjust after you add your nutrients. Test. Let sit for five min. Test again. Adjust if needed. Always remove shit that’s dead or near dead. No need to keep that on your plant it’s an invitation for nothing good. I usually flush heavy if I have a problem then return to nutes the next time they need a watering. Good luck with it.
 

Bdogg90

Member
I’ve said it before and I agree with Bernie. Fox farm is big corporate and their products are inferior to even basic soil. Everyone that uses it always has problems. Usually to hot especially for little ones. Unless your hydro your ph should always be 6.5 and make sure to adjust after you add your nutrients. Test. Let sit for five min. Test again. Adjust if needed. Always remove shit that’s dead or near dead. No need to keep that on your plant it’s an invitation for nothing good. I usually flush heavy if I have a problem then return to nutes the next time they need a watering. Good luck with it.

When you feed, do you take into account the ppm that is already present in the water? For example, I used tap water that was 327 ppm. Now I know most of those ppms are from micro nutrients and what not, but say I want to feed 500 ppm of bloom nutes. Would I add nutes until the total is 500, or would I add until the total is 827? I know, kind of a noob question but back when I learned I never had this solved lol
 
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