First Grow!

Just wanted to do a first post, and show off part of my setup, looks like some of the clones are very happy, others the root development is really lacking. I put a lot of time into designing the bucket... pvc spray nozzle, with a bell siphon. So its kind of dwc hybrid aero system. The bell siphon was all abotu being able to just continually pump water into the bucket, to circulate it, so i could maintain the central resivioir more easily...

Sweet setup! I am fellow beginner myself. Quick question. Does the clear hose going into the side of each bucket feed directly to the pvc pipe and spray nozzles or is there an additional pump in the bottom of the buckets?

There is an additional pump inside. I figured I'd opt for redundant cheap pumps that were more easily contained... and it makes it kinda modular, can add in a bucket or take one out with not much modification. Check out the inside of the bucket!



If anyone has any advice, im open to both suggestions and criticism-- I really have no clue what ph to go with. Fox Farms suggets 5.8 to 6.3. Plants seem to be doing ok, but I see signs of "intervienal chlorosis" (yellowing of the veins on newer growth), hope im not locking out any nutes keeping the ph too low (5..... I had it all the way down at 5.5 for a day or two =/ I don't think they liked that. i'm a n00b and everyone says something else. going with manufacturer's suggestions for now. The vinyl tubing supplies a dribble of water, the little thing on the end of the bucket acts as a terminator, so you can attach the hose without much difficulty.

That's a really nice setup. What size water pumps (gph?) are you using and do they add heat to the reservoirs?

As posted in my other thread, my setups are the same as far as functionality but my water pumps generate heat in the water. If yours do not and they are smaller than mine, I may need to downgrade my water pumps. That would be the most practical solution. My water pumps are displayed right here http://www.hhydro.com/Pump-for-120-Site-EZ-Clone-Aeroponic-system.html , which apparently makes them 1000/gph pumps. In the add here, it supports a 120-site clone machine. That tells me they have to be overkill for my two 4-plant sites.

Also, check out the chart below for pH levels and coinciding nutrient availability.

View attachment 2918570

I went with the smallest submersible pump the local hydro shop had, its only 160gph. I read somewhere that the ez clone spray head/nozzles that I'm using are somewhere from 8-12 gph each, and I have 12 of them per bucket (which is probably way overkill). I don't notice them adding any heat to the reservoirs. And thanks for the ph chart I think I had come across a cropped version of that at one point. I think you could def downgrade on the pump-- is the room temp high in your setup?

It stays between 75-80 with super low humidity. I'm talking humidity rarely gets above 35%. I keep the closet doors and the window in the room open as often as possible. When I'm not at home, the window is closed but the closet doors stay open. When the closet doors ARE closed, it can get up to 80 but the closet doors are almost always open.

What type of lights are you using? The purple hue makes me think LEDs but I could be wrong.

Oh and check this out from http://www.weedfarmer.com/cannabis/nutrientdisorders_guide.php :

Key on Nutrient Disorders

To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before
making major changes.

1) a) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2.

b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2) a) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency.

b) If not, go to #3.

3) a) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.

b) If not, go to #4.

4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.

b) If not, keep reading…

5) a) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and
leaves may be small.>> Phosphorous (P) deficiency.

b) If not, go to #6.

6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or
insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.

b) If not, go to #7.

7) a) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N).

b) If not, go to #8…

a) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >>Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely).

b) If not, go to #9.

9) a) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning.

b) If not, go to #10...

10) a) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency.

b) If not, #11.

11) a) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency.

b) If not, #12.
12) a) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn)
deficiency.
b) If not, #13.
13) a) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency.
b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.