First grow in any form! Chime in if you feel you can help.

WillieP

Well-Known Member
Destroyer,
Thanks for sharing your grow with us.
I'm pretty new at this, so take my advice for what it's worth.
I grow hydro, but Ebb and Flow, not DWC.
I would recommend a couple of things.

Your PH for hydro should run close to 5.6, it will naturally raise slowly. And with your water volume just a few drops of PH down will bring it back in range. This will help prevent nutrient lockout. PH of hydro is different than the PH for soil.

You can run a sterile reservoir, or one with benies (beneficial bacteria) like your hydroguard, but of course you can't run both at the same time.
I use benies, (a product that is only available in the USA). If you are concerned about root rot, you can research the use of H2O2 in the reservoir, it is a popular option. Also water temperature is an important factor in having a healthy reservoir. (you can also use the hydrogen peroxide to sterilize any of your equipment, like your airstones.)

It is the norm to change your nutrients in your reservoir weekly. The plants may use your nutrients at different rates, at different stages of growth. So potentially you could be low on one nutrient and high on another, but you EC/PPM could measure just fine the whole time.

The current brown spot and leaf discoloration issue you have looks like a calcium def to me.


I recommend when growing in hydro, at the first sign of a problem, check that your PH is where it should be. If it is, do a reservoir change and see if things improve. In your case, I would mix a batch of fresh nutrients, add a increased amount of Cal/Mag, and lower your PH to 5.6 after adding all you nutrients.

The only other input I have would be to check this site out...


Hope some of this helps,
WillieP
 

Destroyer of chairs

Well-Known Member
Thank you for your input, appreciated :)

That picture of leaf symptoms in such high resolution rly helps. I've looked at same picture before but couldn't zoom in like now, thank you. It does look like cal def on one plant and actually a bit like mg on the other when I look at the picture.

As goes for the pH in hydro I know its diff from soil, but isnt best range 5.8-6.2? If I go below this, wouldn't I lock out both ca and mg? My chart shows this and I actually got it from the site you recommended. It was the first site I started my research on hah :)
I do check it daily and if it fluctuates alot, several times a day.

I've looked into sterile vs bennies and came to the conclusion I will use hydroguard in combination with Tricho derma and mycorhizza. I don't have a chiller atm and correct me if I'm wrong, in sterile u got to have low temps?
Bought hydrogen peroxide for what you suggested though, sterilisation of equipment.

I'll change my res tomorrow when I get my H2O2.
Feel like if I change res with dirty equipment I'll just get other problems. And no clue how to clean it without the peroxide. I'll def try to add more calmag to the mix this time :)
 

WillieP

Well-Known Member
Destroyer,
I love the fact that I can tell you have done your research!!
To many people read one article, or visit one hydro shop and think it's let's grow time.
I was able to read to 6 months before my state went legal.

You made me question the PH 5.6 that I recommended, with a quick Google I found this:


(scroll down to #3)
I didn't explain myself well when I said PH 5.6.
If you set your PH at 5.6 and then let it raise naturally to 5.9, it will give you a larger window between adjustment's.
It's great that you check yours everyday, but don't stress to much about having it spot on at all times.
I have a 12 gal, (45 liter) reservoir, if I put a little to much PH down in when I adjust and I end up with 5.4, I don't sweat it.
Same goes if I check it and I find it at 6.1, don't sweat it.
That 5.6 is just the # that I like to shoot for, seems to have work well for me personally.
You have probably seen this:

PH chart.jpg

I'm not familiar with "Tricho derma and mycorhizza", the only time I've heard them referenced was with soil grow, and I've never grown in dirt.
Can't help there.
As far as low reservoir temps go, I think they are recommended for all situations.
Pulled this from another Google search:


I would recommend, and I know it's difficult, to not worry to much.
They call the plant a weed for a reason. It want's to grow.

Hope some of this helps,
WillieP
 

Destroyer of chairs

Well-Known Member
Little update

Water and bucket change yesterday.

0.75ml/L ATA leaf A+B
0.5ml/L calmag
0.75ml/L hydroguard
Around 20 drops pH down

EC 0.49-0.51
PH 6.0
RH 44%
Room 24-27c
Water 18c (15-26c through the day)

Hoping for leaf symptoms to stop progressing with more watertemp control and new nutrient solution(upped the calmag strength).

Have a big tote with both buckets in to help temps. Now also added a coil to run cold water through when temps get higher. I never wanna get those high water temps again.

Some pics from yesterday while changing solution.

IMG_20200617_174552.jpgIMG_20200617_174524.jpgIMG_20200617_174516.jpgIMG_20200617_174455.jpgIMG_20200617_174440.jpgIMG_20200617_174428.jpg
 

WillieP

Well-Known Member
All of those actions were good things IMHO.
Those ugly leaves will just be a memory shortly.
Focus on the new growth, and when she's grown into a big girl, pluck those off and forget them.
Good Luck!
WillieP
 

G Bear

Well-Known Member
I won’t be of any help to you as far as advising goes. I am a total newb as well and have been making lots if mistakes in my own first grow, currently 4 weeks into flower.

My only advice is just to learn from your mistakes and keep at it.

By the way, great username! I’ve destroyed a couple chairs in my time. Oh and I’m curious, what is your first language, if you don’t mind me asking. Your English seems great.
 

WillieP

Well-Known Member
Man I really hope so! But I wanted to manifold them and not sure if I can do that when lower leaves are that bad?
[/QUOTE

Will you be using a SCROG screen, or just LST'ing them?
There's no rush to top the plants.
I would suggest topping after the fifth node, but you can wait till the seventh or eighth node and then top back to the fifth. That would give the plants a chance to recover and build a larger root base to help with the recovery from the high stress training (topping). I've read of folks doing it both ways, plants seem to develop the same either way. Personal choice I would say.

Good Luck Destroyer,
WillieP

As reference, one of my current plants:
IMG_6355.JPG
IMG_6354.JPG
 

Destroyer of chairs

Well-Known Member
#1

Have this weird bending on a couple of leaves that I have not seen before. See pic 1 and 2.

Brown spots are pretty much randomly placed on the leaves it seems, except the node where it is focused at the start of leaf. See picture 3 and 4 for comparison.

Only slight yellowing/brighter colours mostly at edges.


#2

Brown spots mostly focused on edges on this one.

Alot more yellowing though.

Also noticed a branch further down have developed hugely in comparison to the other plant.


Any ideas fellas? Some of it looks like calsium def but rlt not sure about the curling and why the spots are different.
 

WillieP

Well-Known Member
Destroyer,
If they were mine, and they are not...
I would take off the leaves that are obviously on their way to the great greenhouse in the sky (dying).
Firstly they aren't doing the plant much good.
Secondly, I can tell that looking at them is causing you pain. LOL
Seriously, they aren't doing anything for the plant, and they are stressing you out.

If your new growth is coming in fine, you're on your way to recovery. Don't overthink it.

Cheers,
WillieP
 

Destroyer of chairs

Well-Known Member
I get ur point but on the other side they do store some nutrients, so if I remove them upper leaves will suffer at a earlier stage? Correct me if I'm wrong.

It is stressing me out, and def causing some pain. But I just can't relax before I see symptoms stagnate or new leafs unaffected.
 

WillieP

Well-Known Member
Have you considered raising your overall EC?
I'm not familiar with measuring in EC, I measure in PPM.
From what I understand, the scale I use would have a multiple of 701 factor.
That's .50 X 701 = 350 PPM.
That may be a touch low, especially when you are not using RO water. Your base water is providing 50 PPM.
300 PPM of the good stuff my not be enough.
Just food for thought.
In Hydro you will be able to see the changes very quickly, like 2 days, quickly. One of the advantages of Hydro over soil.
You might up your nutrients a bit and see if that helps things. Up'ing by 100 PPM for me, would put you at an EC of closer to .63 I believe.
Again, I'm no expert, just making suggestions.
Good luck, focus on the new growth,
WillieP
 

Destroyer of chairs

Well-Known Member
U think so? Ye 250-350 depending Hanna or one of the others.
Really didn't think about going higher, scared to burn them. Though they seem kinda burned already, no?
 

Destroyer of chairs

Well-Known Member
PH 5.8-5.9
RH 56%
Room 25-26c
Water 18-19c

Also moved my led further away.
From 21-24inch. Looked kinda crispy wanna make sure it's not the light being too close.

IMG_20200621_170302.jpg
 

WillieP

Well-Known Member
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