ronnie redeyes
Member
i pull the air through my fans as it causes less stress on the fan, rather than pushing the air through.
Tcm04
Well-Known Member
HAHA Great response. I guess I just needed someone to tell me. Thanks man.Your problem is your fan. My set up is 2x1000w in a sealed room. No fresh air in. My 435cfm fan will suck your balls off.
I think you know the answer to your question.
stinkbudd1
Well-Known Member
not for arguing purposes but we just completed a long thread on that subject and it still erks me to here peeps say that 80 deg temps are way high, no it isnt i just completed my second grow and my average temps were 85 deg with no trouble at least if we are going to teach here lets at least start out at over 85 deg being a lil high..plants grow in some pretty extreem temps around the world even in vegas 118 deg heat and are fine..It proves that there are many ways to do this...
But very few will keep your temps in the "IDEAL" range..
In my opinion 80F is too hot..
GypsyBush
Well-Known Member
I hear you... and you are right.. IT CAN BE DONE...
Plants grow in 50F weather.. or in 100F weather..
But the window where they THRIVE and give you 100% of what they can is actually very small....
If you take the "total POSSIBLE harvest" as a starting point.... every time you "nute burn" you loose a percentage...
Every day that the temp is not PERFECT, both day and night, you loose...
All of those little factors add up in the end...
..
So yeah... I am sure you had FINE and HEALTHY plants at 85 or even 90F... but they did not THRIVE to give 100% of their capabilities...
ONE SMALL MISTAKE COSTS YOU...
And temps above IDEAL everyday costs you too...
Not saying it can;t be done.. but it is not the IDEAL RANGE...
I hope I made sense.. I am sick
and STONED....
stinkbudd1
Well-Known Member
could not have said it better!! my last plant had nute burn and a couple of times had to high of a temp degree change lights on to lights off.and it may have suffered some and i flowered at only 7" the plant was only 13 1/2 " at harvest and got just under an ounce of some bad shit..im trying to stay at 80 max and 68 min now ...as for the fan issue i think when you use an hid hps or mh you really need to introduce cool outside air to keep temps down im using a cool tube and i do both i push cool outside air through the tube and then on the other end i pull it out to exaust i only do this because i have some shit fans two inline 80 cfm duct fans but it works great..I hear you... and you are right.. IT CAN BE DONE...
Plants grow in 50F weather.. or in 100F weather..
But the window where they THRIVE and give you 100% of what they can is actually very small....
If you take the "total POSSIBLE harvest" as a starting point.... every time you "nute burn" you loose a percentage...
Every day that the temp is not PERFECT, both day and night, you loose...
All of those little factors add up in the end...
..
So yeah... I am sure you had FINE and HEALTHY plants at 85 or even 90F... but they did not THRIVE to give 100% of their capabilities...
ONE SMALL MISTAKE COSTS YOU...
And temps above IDEAL everyday costs you too...
Not saying it can;t be done.. but it is not the IDEAL RANGE...
I hope I made sense.. I am sick
Dr. VonDank
Active Member
Set up a VonDank stank bucket and pull air/filter air/replace with cool-air/cool lights/cool room----all with one fan!!!.
simple as that....
simple as that....
JediSmoker
Active Member
I have my inline fans hooked up near my intake dampers and they push air through the reflectors and out. I run a sealed room with CO2 and sealed intake/exhaust for my lights.
Reasons:
1. It warms the air slightly before entering my reflectors and causes less condensation, especially during the cool season.
2. I would rather have positive pressure inside my air hoods, because if there are any cracks it will push tiny amounts of air into your room instead of sucking tiny amounts out of your room, along with the smell, right out your light exhaust.
3. I don’t need a carbon filter because there is no smell being sucked out, which increases fan life.
Those are my reasons. Efficient air flow or not, the light hoods stay cool to the touch. Each of my 400cfm fan cool 2 600w HPS and its been over a year with no problems.
What works for me might not work for others.
Reasons:
1. It warms the air slightly before entering my reflectors and causes less condensation, especially during the cool season.
2. I would rather have positive pressure inside my air hoods, because if there are any cracks it will push tiny amounts of air into your room instead of sucking tiny amounts out of your room, along with the smell, right out your light exhaust.
3. I don’t need a carbon filter because there is no smell being sucked out, which increases fan life.
Those are my reasons. Efficient air flow or not, the light hoods stay cool to the touch. Each of my 400cfm fan cool 2 600w HPS and its been over a year with no problems.
What works for me might not work for others.
Pokersurge
Member
Always push unless you have to pull. I have been in that situation before, where intake was the gaps in the bottom of my closet doors
theburnoutkid
Active Member
Definately pulling think of the air as a string. Go get yourself a piece of string lay in out straight now try pushing doesnt go far huh? now pull it you see what happens. take the mine industry for example they put fans in the side of a hill and suck air through miles of tunnel if they were to try to blow with the same fan it mite make it a few hundred feet
PeachOibleBoiblePeach#1
Well-Known Member
Right now, I have a sealed hood and only have the ducting on one end pulling the heat and smell inside the room out into a carbon filter through a can fan. Seems to work for me.
Well I push in the veg closet and then pull it through the wall and push it into the bloom area where it gets more pushing then mostly gets itself pulled out an open window by natural forces of nature, depending on temps light signature etc. I dont like a light to shine out the window at night. Afraid Five O might notice.
DubsFan
Well-Known Member
Cooling a single hood or even two hoods over a very short distance with pushing is not a problem. I pull but my run is about 13ft and has some sweeps in the ducting.
If you are in a grow tent with one light you can do what ever you want. Shit...435cfm for 5ft??? No big deal no matter which way you go.
PeachOibleBoiblePeach#1
Well-Known Member
I also have a fan circulating the air^^^in the room.
stumps
Well-Known Member
So far I've seen nothing of proof to what way works best. I've searched the net with no luck. I called a buddy that does ducting and such at a nuke site. I explained the deal to him and he laughed. He said with this app it would not matter much to push or pull. most all hvac is set up to push. He thought either way would work with no big advantage for either one. He did think that large ops might see some advantage to a vaccum system. He also laughed and said he bet not one person I was talking to did any calc's to figure out what would work best. so I'm getting all the info on my set up togather and have him figure out what would take to get diff. temps off my 400w mh. I'll post the resultl when I get them.
Dr. VonDank
Active Member
What that guy says is shit!!!------And it F*&^^&^^ stinks in here because of it!!!.
GB----Liked the diagram and that would work just fine. I have pushed and pulled air and I think the application dictates which one would be more ideal in that given situation. Here's a thought----I have set up many tents and have come up with a energy effective set-up that uses only one fan and cools your lights/cools the room/cleans the air/replenishes fresh air in tent. I like to run the grow labs 145l with 2 1000's--8" cooltubes over a true 4'x8' table(botanicare) but any up-sizing or downsizing works well with this set-up. I take a large grey rubbermade trash can and center cut a 8" hole in the lid. I then cut a 8" hole in the side of the trashcan and drop a canfilter 75 carbon in the trash can and put the lid on. Any 8" fan will work but I love the new canfanmax 8"(fits perfectly into the canfilter ". I run a 8" duct from the side(lowes/homedepot sell a sticky 8" takeoff that you attach the duct to-----easy as pie)duct and through the top side vent of tent where it connect to the cool tube---the cooltube connect to the other cooltube with a short run of 8" duct. The end of the other cool tube is left open in the tent. One of the tent vents on the bottom opposite of the cooltube that has the open end(this allows cool air-movement over your plants without the need of another fan inside the tent. The maxcanfan is attached to 8" ducting that you can run into another room/attic. The fan/filter runs 24/24 and now removes the heat from the room/brings cool co2 fresh air in/cools the lights/filters the air/moves the hot clean air to the location of your choice.
Cool tubes are more efficiant at moving air/cooltubes distribute more reflective light around room but less downward light penatration compaired to reflecter hoods. Both work very well.
GB----Liked the diagram and that would work just fine. I have pushed and pulled air and I think the application dictates which one would be more ideal in that given situation. Here's a thought----I have set up many tents and have come up with a energy effective set-up that uses only one fan and cools your lights/cools the room/cleans the air/replenishes fresh air in tent. I like to run the grow labs 145l with 2 1000's--8" cooltubes over a true 4'x8' table(botanicare) but any up-sizing or downsizing works well with this set-up. I take a large grey rubbermade trash can and center cut a 8" hole in the lid. I then cut a 8" hole in the side of the trashcan and drop a canfilter 75 carbon in the trash can and put the lid on. Any 8" fan will work but I love the new canfanmax 8"(fits perfectly into the canfilter ". I run a 8" duct from the side(lowes/homedepot sell a sticky 8" takeoff that you attach the duct to-----easy as pie)duct and through the top side vent of tent where it connect to the cool tube---the cooltube connect to the other cooltube with a short run of 8" duct. The end of the other cool tube is left open in the tent. One of the tent vents on the bottom opposite of the cooltube that has the open end(this allows cool air-movement over your plants without the need of another fan inside the tent. The maxcanfan is attached to 8" ducting that you can run into another room/attic. The fan/filter runs 24/24 and now removes the heat from the room/brings cool co2 fresh air in/cools the lights/filters the air/moves the hot clean air to the location of your choice.
Cool tubes are more efficiant at moving air/cooltubes distribute more reflective light around room but less downward light penatration compaired to reflecter hoods. Both work very well.
stumps
Well-Known Member
I thinK I need to clarify. I explained my set up. about 15' of 4" duct. My blower fan is set up on the outside of my flower room. The ducting runs in the room then out side, no filters. I just don't ubderstand why a vaccum would be beter then foced air. that is without a filter. I do see why it would work beter with a filter. Even the hvac system pulls air threw the filter.
