Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions

Roland said:

If it is coming from a 40 A circuit ... then it needs to go into a disconnect rated at 40 A .. then you can use 15 or 20 A breaker to feed the lights

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Yeah, he didnt say anything about a disconnect. He just wanted to know if he could run 12/2 off of the 2 pole 40 amp breaker that his dryer was on. I told him no that it wasnt safe. wyteboi told me that i was wrong so i just wanted to get things staight.

consume said:

So I am a cheap bastard.... Instead of buying a controller with humidity and temp, I just bought the temp. Now my room is running humid (80-85%) before the fans turn on to cool the room. I'm worried that mold may start to invade.

Is there a way that i can hook up the same exhaust fan to both the temp contoller and then add in a humidity controller also to the same fan by using a "OR" circuit? How would I wire this? Would i have to worry about feedback from either controller towards the other?

Diodes?

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Diodes won't help much with AC, unless you want to 1/2wave rectify it.
Whats the temp and humidity controllers?
Get a relay. Feed its coil from the temp controler and also from the humidity controler. Let the conatacts control the fan. Whats the temp and humidity controllers?

nickbbad said:

I've never made one but have been interested in making a flip/flop relay anyway if you search around you can find plans for them here is a good DIY flip/flop relay tutorial but you have to sign up to the site to see the pics. http://forums.mycotopia.net/cannabis/22515-diy-flipflop-relay-run-2-lamps-off-1-ballast-grow-more-efficiently.html

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Don't need to make a flipflop relay. Just a DPDT relay. Timer controls the coil. The NC contacts run the 'off' time and the NO contacts run the 'on' time.

BigBudBalls said:

Diodes won't help much with AC, unless you want to 1/2wave rectify it.
Whats the temp and humidity controllers?
Get a relay. Feed its coil from the temp controler and also from the humidity controler. Let the conatacts control the fan. Whats the temp and humidity controllers?

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Temp is a CAP Cool-1.

Was looking at something like: http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-H8908ASPST-Manual-Humidistat-Control-11506000-p.

Output from the temp is 110v.

Looking at the specs for the humistat, it shows for low voltage. I take it that I would need a relay?

Maybe my best bet would be to try and sell what I have, then buy a better all around controller.

travish413 said:

Yeah, he didnt say anything about a disconnect. He just wanted to know if he could run 12/2 off of the 2 pole 40 amp breaker that his dryer was on. I told him no that it wasnt safe. wyteboi told me that i was wrong so i just wanted to get things staight.

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Yeah he prob'ly didn't see that part .. I haven't read the whole thread either .. just jumped in to answer a couple quick questions ...

U CAN use #10 wire to feed 40 Amp disconnect .. if there are no more than three conductors in the raceway ( or cable ).. # 8 would be better .. #8 is good up to 55 A

travish413 said:

Yeah, he didnt say anything about a disconnect. He just wanted to know if he could run 12/2 off of the 2 pole 40 amp breaker that his dryer was on. I told him no that it wasnt safe. wyteboi told me that i was wrong so i just wanted to get things staight.

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i was totally under the impression that the dryer was not being used anymore.
What i should of said is you can use 14 guage wire for 2 amps. and if u KNOW there is nothing on that circuit but your 2 amp light then there is no need for a disconnect. i am an electrician but that dont mean i do EVERYTHING per code. I use code AND common sense to determine what u guys need... thats all.
So by putting a 14 wire 110 circuit on a dryer outlet with a 40 amp breaker, is completely safe UNTIL you overload THAT 14 wire then since the breaker is so big the 14 wire would get hot and possibly start a fire. but if the one light is all u have then who cares about code...... its still safe.
sorry if i confused anyone .......

travish413 said:

Ok... That 15 feet of 12/2 wire is rated for a 20 amp breaker.

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its the oppisite , the 20 amp breaker is rated for 12 gauge wire. The breaker does nothing except "break" the connection IF u exceed the limit of the breaker, now if u never exceed the wire limit then the size of the breaker dont help or hurt.
now if u want to add things to that breaker in the future then yes u will need a disconnect.

no big deal

I would like to wire a panel similar to the first one of two that you posted 4 /7 /09
I have a hard wired timer with three 4 outlet receptacles to power the fans and air pumps. I was thinking about installing a two breaker sub panel, one for the fans etc. and the other for the ballast (1000W). I want it nice and neat so there are now wires or cables nesting all over the floor. Can you send me a diagram or something that I could use to make this up?
Thanks,

Ben
BTW, there are limited circuits available as this is a very old house. Some of the wiring is knob and tube. There was an outlet wired to the outside of the house (Christmas lights I assume) from the furnace panel. I removed that and thought about using it as my power source since there is nothing left on the panel and everything else is overloaded.
Your thoughts?

Thanks again, and I don't see how to PM you either.

diablo69 said:

Some of the wiring is knob and tube. There was an outlet wired to the outside of the house (Christmas lights I assume) from the furnace panel. I removed that and thought about using it as my power source since there is nothing left on the panel and everything else is overloaded.
Your thoughts?

Thanks again, and I don't see how to PM you either.

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when you say "furnace panel" do u mean the box on the side of the furnace? Gas or electric?
if it is gas then there is probably just one 15 amp circuit coming from the "main panel"
Do u have breakers or fuses?
you are gonna need at least one 20 amp "dedicated" circuit for your equipment (i would go with 2) Dedicated meaning NOTHING else on that circuit. a 1000 watt light at 110v = about 8.5amps . that only leaves you 2 or 3 amps to play with for fans, ect...
DO NOT use that old nob an tube wiring for grow room (unless u have to) that shit is so old and fragile , its just not worth it.
Do u have a 100amp panel ? if so what all do u use (not counting lights an computers, just motors , like the fridge, stove,dryer, water heater, ect....)
If you are not overloaded we can possibly show you how to add a new breaker and wire for ur setup.

Quick look, It seems to be the standard 24VAC controls used in HVAC.
Yup, Would need a relay *and* a 24VAC power supply (Radio shack sells a 25VAC transformer for like $10)
Didn't see any spec sheet stating the ratings of the internal contacts, so driving the dehumidifier straight from it, probably not a good idea.

Is this thing an electronic monitoring or mechanical (ie: horse hair?)
The wiring kinda leads me to believe mechanical.

Why not just use the humidistat on the dehumidifier?

consume said:

from the temp is 110v.

Looking at the specs for the humistat, it shows for low voltage. I take it that I would need a relay?

Maybe my best bet would be to try and sell what I have, then buy a better all around controller.

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Guys, can I break in for a quick question please. I want to ad Two combination switches to control Two submersible pumps for watering. I plan on adding these to the last outlet. Is there such a combination switch that can be daisy chained just like the outlets are wired?
Just so im clear in my description: Half of my outlets are conected to a 20 amp breaker. The outlets are wired One to the next and so on. I just want to add Two combinations at the end of the chain.
Thanks.

curioushiker said:

Guys, can I break in for a quick question please. I want to ad Two combination switches to control Two submersible pumps for watering. I plan on adding these to the last outlet. Is there such a combination switch that can be daisy chained just like the outlets are wired?
Just so im clear in my description: Half of my outlets are conected to a 20 amp breaker. The outlets are wired One to the next and so on. I just want to add Two combinations at the end of the chain.
Thanks.

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as long as u aren't overloading the circuit .....yes ...

u can buy switched outlets at any electric supply

Roland said:

as long as u aren't overloading the circuit .....yes ...

u can buy switched outlets at any electric supply

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I have the max 12 outlets on a 20 amp cucuit. All the outlets are rated 20 amps. (or so said the package)
The only thing that will run off the outlets will be 5 or so 10" or 12" oscillating fans along with the trigger cable for my light controller and in the future an environmental controller. Oh yeah, and the submersible pump which will only be used intermitantly.
Sound OK? if not I can always dedicate a breaker for the pumps.

curioushiker said:

I have the max 12 outlets on a 20 amp cucuit. All the outlets are rated 20 amps. (or so said the package)
The only thing that will run off the outlets will be 5 or so 10" or 12" oscillating fans along with the trigger cable for my light controller and in the future an environmental controller. Oh yeah, and the submersible pump which will only be used intermitantly.
Sound OK? if not I can always dedicate a breaker for the pumps.

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sounds like it should be fine .... to be sure .... look at labels on all devices and find watts add them up and divide by 110 .. that will give you amps

watts / voltage = amps

Bricktown,

I've got an outlet in my new house that was meant for a tanning bed (30 amp/250 volt, with a NEMA L6-30P outlet, Cali style), that I would like to use for another project. Found some computer server power strips that are 30 amp that I can plug into wall receptacle, output from power strip is NEMA 6-15/20R 250 volt (12x20 amp outlets, 7500 watts max, 2x20amp breakers, digital amp meter).

Plan to run 240 volt Lumatek ballasts off of this power strip, do you see any concerns with this setup? Only planning on running 1200-1800 watts, with room for growth.

Thanks dude! FUNKadelic

funkadelic said:

Bricktown,

I've got an outlet in my new house that was meant for a tanning bed (30 amp/250 volt, with a NEMA L6-30P outlet, Cali style), that I would like to use for another project. Found some computer server power strips that are 30 amp that I can plug into wall receptacle, output from power strip is NEMA 6-15/20R 250 volt (12x20 amp outlets, 7500 watts max, 2x20amp breakers, digital amp meter).

Plan to run 240 volt Lumatek ballasts off of this power strip, do you see any concerns with this setup? Only planning on running 1200-1800 watts, with room for growth.

Thanks dude! FUNKadelic

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sounds good .. not sure if Brick is around ... I like the ida of a built in 20 A breaker and the current read out .. sounds like u can plug straight into the 30A dryer outlet .. all u need is the proper/matching cord end

got a link for that power strip ?

Bricktown,

I've got an outlet in my new house that was meant for a tanning bed (30 amp/250 volt, with a NEMA L6-30P outlet, Cali style), that I would like to use for another project. Found some computer server power strips that are 30 amp that I can plug into wall receptacle, output from power strip is NEMA 6-15/20R 250 volt (12x20 amp outlets, 7500 watts max, 2x20amp breakers, digital amp meter).

Plan to run 240 volt Lumatek ballasts off of this power strip, do you see any concerns with this setup? Only planning on running 1200-1800 watts, with room for growth.

Thanks dude! FUNKadelic

It has a 60 amp service and the panel is to power the furnace ignitor. It has a 30 amp fuse inside. The other guy had a receptacle on it and ran it outside for x mas lights I assume. I wanted to remove his receptacle and run my own cable to the room I'll be using (20ft away) then just use a really good power bar and run 3 air pumps and 3 fans and of course the 1000W ballast. I was going to make a board of my own with a quality timer (metal box) and a sub panel with 2 15 amp breakers. One for the fans etc. and the other for the ballast but, I can make it neat and tidy with the way I was talking about. Last two grows were just extension cords and I didn't like that idea as the plastic time melted it'self to the cheap power bar.
Thanks for your help.

Ben

diablo69 said:

It has a 60 amp service and the panel is to power the furnace ignitor. It has a 30 amp fuse inside. The other guy had a receptacle on it and ran it outside for x mas lights I assume. I wanted to remove his receptacle and run my own cable to the room I'll be using (20ft away) then just use a really good power bar and run 3 air pumps and 3 fans and of course the 1000W ballast. I was going to make a board of my own with a quality timer (metal box) and a sub panel with 2 15 amp breakers. One for the fans etc. and the other for the ballast but, I can make it neat and tidy with the way I was talking about. Last two grows were just extension cords and I didn't like that idea as the plastic time melted it'self to the cheap power bar.
Thanks for your help.

Ben

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if it has a 30 amp receptacle and a Thirty amp fuse .. I would get the matching male end and use # 10 Esso cord to your new power center .... the plug works as an effective "disconnect" so you can work on it in the future