Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions
- Thread starter bricktown73
- Start date
wyteboi
Well-Known Member
if u are not scared of electricity then tie right into it , using a underground wire. (how many watts incuding fans are you wanting to use?)
UF wire is the wire u will need. (it can be buried)
you can just tap right into it and add a plug or the safest way would be to add a junction box (a disconnect) and run your uf wire from there . that way there is a breaker on the circuit/circuits you are needing.
curioushiker
Active Member
Wyteboi and Roland just wanted to say thanks for the help you guys are giving here. I know electrical can be a real pain in the ass. Especially when what we need is not there.
On the bright side. Electricity is pretty black and white, no gray areas there. If those that are wiring their rooms do not have the correct size wiring in place already then take the time to run the wire needed. If money is an issue as it is for most of us then I would recommend running One less light and ballast (if using Two or more) and use that saved money to upgrade the wiring. In most cases it is easily done.
Anyway, please dont skimp on the wiring. The results can be dangerous.
On the bright side. Electricity is pretty black and white, no gray areas there. If those that are wiring their rooms do not have the correct size wiring in place already then take the time to run the wire needed. If money is an issue as it is for most of us then I would recommend running One less light and ballast (if using Two or more) and use that saved money to upgrade the wiring. In most cases it is easily done.
Anyway, please dont skimp on the wiring. The results can be dangerous.
True Stoner
Active Member
Thanks for the info buddy i just added up everything besides the heat mat and i came out with 1313 watts divided by 110 gave me 11.93 watts so im well under. Thanks again!!
treemansbuds
Well-Known Member
Hello Mr Electricty-
Setting up a grow room 12x16, i'm running 10 gauge wire underground in conduit to my shed about 80' (grow room). Into a breaker box with 240v- 20amp breaker to support the 2-1000watt HPS flowering lights and the 400 watt MH light in the veg room (11.9 amps). And another 120v-20amp breaker to support the rest of the equipment (fans, A/C, pumps, 2' floursents)
Question will this work?
What Ballast do you recommend?
Digital or magmnetic?
I hear about "liner loads" and "non linar loads" I have no idea what they are talking about and was hoping for some input.
Thanks,
Treemansbuds-
Setting up a grow room 12x16, i'm running 10 gauge wire underground in conduit to my shed about 80' (grow room). Into a breaker box with 240v- 20amp breaker to support the 2-1000watt HPS flowering lights and the 400 watt MH light in the veg room (11.9 amps). And another 120v-20amp breaker to support the rest of the equipment (fans, A/C, pumps, 2' floursents)
Question will this work?
What Ballast do you recommend?
Digital or magmnetic?
I hear about "liner loads" and "non linar loads" I have no idea what they are talking about and was hoping for some input.
Thanks,
Treemansbuds-
consume
Active Member
So I am a cheap bastard.... Instead of buying a controller with humidity and temp, I just bought the temp. Now my room is running humid (80-85%) before the fans turn on to cool the room. I'm worried that mold may start to invade.
Is there a way that i can hook up the same exhaust fan to both the temp contoller and then add in a humidity controller also to the same fan by using a "OR" circuit? How would I wire this? Would i have to worry about feedback from either controller towards the other?
Diodes?
Roland
Active Member
2 x 1000 + 400 /240 = 10 amps
u need to total wattages for your 110V circuit and divide by 110 .. but 20 A circuit is PROB'LY OK
Digital (electronic) ballasts are more expensive .. give off less heat .. are quieter .and use slightly less current ... your call
not sure what u mean by "liner" and "non-linar" loads ..unless they are talking about distance ... over 200 feet requires wire guage increase..
line .. and load ... are labeled lugs in a transformer or a disconnect .. .. line = source .. load = device
Attachments
treemansbuds
Well-Known Member
Roland-
Thanks for the 411.
Do you recommend GFI outlets for the 120v?
I'm wired and live to the breaker box, and I have 1 120v outlet installed
so I can see what I'm doing. I start wiring up the room tomorrow and installing fan/ducting after that. Glad 2 know your here if I needed.......thanks again!
Treemansbuds-
Roland
Active Member
By code ... any electrical device within 6 ft of WATER .. must be GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor) protected ...Roland-
Thanks for the 411.
Do you recommend GFI outlets for the 120v?
I'm wired and live to the breaker box, and I have 1 120v outlet installed
Glad 2 know your here if I needed.......thanks again!
Treemansbuds-
It's there to protect people ..in case a Hair dryer falls into the bathtub (just an example ) or to keep you from being electrocuted if you are standing in water
curioushiker
Active Member
Roland, does the formula work the same for 240v? In other words:
2000W/ 240v=8.3?
I am using the C.A.P. light controller that has Eight sockets. It is rated for either 120v or 240v.
It is rated at only 40amps. The reason I say only 40amps is because if all the spaces were used to run Eight 1000w lights then the amps being used would be no less than 33amps running 240v would be no less than 66amps running 120v.
Am I too close to the 40 amp rating to be on the safe side?
Roland
Active Member
Yup .. works the same ... I would use 230 for calculations ... reason is 120 .. isn't ALWAYS 120 ..it varies ..... distance to source, time of day etc.... I've seen 117 in the morning and 113 in the afternoon
220/240 works on phase A and Phase B cycles ..110 +110 = 200
117 -117 = 234 .. get my point ?
lights fans etc. draw a slight surge in current at "start-up"
generally .. it's a good idea to supply 125% of load ... it is most important with motors
you will still be protected from overload at 99.9% of available current as long as your circuit breaker is rated for 100% max cont. load
Roland
Active Member
hmmmmmm ... kind of a tough ..lengthy one .....
if your humidity controller .. uses the same circuit as your temp controller ... you COULD feed the supply wire to your fan ..from both controllers then your fan would come on "either" from temp or humidity Ctrlr
nickbbad
New Member
I've never made one but have been interested in making a flip/flop relay anyway if you search around you can find plans for them here is a good DIY flip/flop relay tutorial but you have to sign up to the site to see the pics. http://forums.mycotopia.net/cannabis/22515-diy-flipflop-relay-run-2-lamps-off-1-ballast-grow-more-efficiently.html
consume
Active Member
Do you see a downside?
Roland
Active Member
I've never made one but have been interested in making a flip/flop relay anyway if you search around you can find plans for them here is a good DIY flip/flop relay tutorial but you have to sign up to the site to see the pics. http://forums.mycotopia.net/cannabis/22515-diy-flipflop-relay-run-2-lamps-off-1-ballast-grow-more-efficiently.html
I think that is made to switch one off when the other comes on most ballasts are made for a single lamp .. You might be able to find a 2 lamp ballast .. but I don't know of one for Gro-lights
travish413
Well-Known Member
Ok, you can run 12/2 with a 240/120v 20amp outlet. This guy was coming off a 40 amp breaker that his dryer was already hooked up on and wanted to use 12/2 and you are saying this is safe? I thought there was certain gauges you had to use for seperate size breakers. Like the 40 amp that he is using, shouldnt he be using 8 gauge? Please enlightn me...this is completely untrue....... maybe YOU should not be fuckin with electricity? a 240 volt outlet does not need ANY certain size wire/breaker.! with it being only 2amp@240 then you can SAFELY use a 14/2 wire for this "240" outlet. a 10 wire is totally unnecessary for a single 600. now u git this guy thinkin he is "unsafe" thats not cool!
a 110 and a 220 are the same thing except ONE extra hot ..... thats all.
Brick you might wanna take ur thread back. these folks are being mislead.......
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
AC really doesn't have a polarity. The HOT lead is swinging from positive to negative in respect to a neutral/0Volt.
Now it could cause issues wit the igniter or cap.
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
Grainger.com
Roland
Active Member
If it is coming from a 40 A circuit ... then it needs to go into a disconnect rated at 40 A .. then you can use 15 or 20 A breaker to feed the lights
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
You aren't looking hard.this is one of the first times i have seen someone get it right on here
(and most home outlets ARE 15 amp)
And yep 15amp is standard in N.A. But more then one outlet is typically asigned to a breaker. So if you have 4 outlets in a room, that doesn't mean you can pull 60 amps in that room.