Electrical Ques. If I can help someone I will...

Hulk Nugs said:

yea the white wire is hooked up to the other black wire on the humidistat .... there are two black wires on the humidistat, they both have writing on them but one has more then other i hooked up the black wire coming off the outlet to the black wire on the humidistat then connected the plug black wire to the two black wires from the humidistat and outlet...........then i took the white wire on the outlet and connected it to the other black wire onthe humidistat then connnected the white wire from the plug to the black wire from the humidistat and white wire from the outlet.......then i hooked up the ground from the outlet and the ground from the plug together.

you get it ??

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I think I get what you're saying. don't plug it in how it is, you'll fry the stat. look up how to wire a thermostat, it's the same wiring as that. the ground wire is right, it goes from the plug to the outlet. the white wire is similar, it goes from the plug to the outlet and nothing else. the black from the plug goes to one of the black stat wires. the other black stat wire then goes to the black wire on the outlet. understand that?

Hulk Nugs said:

yea the white wire is hooked up to the other black wire on the humidistat .... there are two black wires on the humidistat, they both have writing on them but one has more then other i hooked up the black wire coming off the outlet to the black wire on the humidistat then connected the plug black wire to the two black wires from the humidistat and outlet...........then i took the white wire on the outlet and connected it to the other black wire onthe humidistat then connnected the white wire from the plug to the black wire from the humidistat and white wire from the outlet.......then i hooked up the ground from the outlet and the ground from the plug together.

you get it ??

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Ever hear of a paragraph? Or a sentence? Or punctuation? I'm no grammar pedant but that's just unreadable.

Edit: After several reads I have determined (roughly) what you have done, and it amounts to naught, I am afraid, as you have simply connected a switch to an extension cable without allowing the switch to interrupt the current.
You should connect + on the socket to one wire on the humidistat, then - on the PLUG to the other wire coming from the humidistat. Then connect the - of the socket to + of the plug, and connect earth to earth (props for getting that right)
This is connecting the 'stat in series and allows it to complete/break the circuit when humidity goes past it's set point.

I attach a diagram for your understanding pleasure.

ok teacher thanks for pointing that out, shit didnt know i was in class, i just type what i think of and theres no paragraphs Or sentences Or punctuations in my brain just words so thats wat you get then i pause to so thats were the ...... comes in, have a great day, go smoke a bowl

Hairy Bob said:

Ever hear of a paragraph? Or a sentence? Or punctuation? I'm no grammar pedant but that's just unreadable.

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ever hear of "but out". I read it just fine, and they did post pictures before, and posted better ones just a bit ago. another useless post. don't you have something better to do with your time?

lorenzo08 said:

ever hear of "but out". I read it just fine, and they did post pictures before, and posted better ones just a bit ago. another useless post. don't you have something better to do with your time?

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Sorry if I got up anyones nose there, I didn't think the pictures were very clear. I certainly couldn't tell where each wire was going, and I had a good look.
I read both of the explanations the guy posted and could barely make head nor tail of 'em.
I understand sometimes people don't have time to proof read their posts, but I for one feel more inclined to assist someone if they take the time to construct an easily understandable post.
Am I alone in this? If so I apologize muchly.
Peace.

Edit: Apols, missed the second set of pics, much clearer.

lorenzo08 said:

I think this may be over your head. ...

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OK...

All I need is to get the power I have at the dryer outlet to my room....

Basically I need an extension cord with a dryer plug on one end and a couple of outlets on the other...

Is that so dangerous?

The breaker on the panel is 50 amp.

Can you help me figure out what I need...

I really don't want to complicate it...

I have the power... just need it a little further away....

I've got a question about ballasts. I bought an old hydro set-up that included a 1000W ballast along with
a 1000W vegging bulb and 1000W blooming bulb. When I switched the lights to 12/12 I found the blooming
bulb would not work in the same ballast. I assumed that although new the bulb didn't work. I bought 2 other bloom bulbs from
2 other sources and neither worked. I picked up another 1000W ballast and this one says right on it --
use metal jalide bulbs only. Popped in one of the "dud" bloomers and it works fine. What's up?

BigSteve.

GypsyBush said:

OK...

All I need is to get the power I have at the dryer outlet to my room....

Basically I need an extension cord with a dryer plug on one end and a couple of outlets on the other...

Is that so dangerous?

The breaker on the panel is 50 amp.

Can you help me figure out what I need...

I really don't want to complicate it...

I have the power... just need it a little further away....

Click to expand...

trying to keep it as simple as possible, but still safe and not a fire hazard, you need a 50 amp sub panel with a dryer cord and a bunch of outlets on it for your room. you can't rig a smaller outlet to the 50 amp dryer outlet any other way without the big risk of fire. I've seen these sold online already put together, or you can have any electrician put it together for you. keep it safe

bigsteve said:

I've got a question about ballasts. I bought an old hydro set-up that included a 1000W ballast along with
a 1000W vegging bulb and 1000W blooming bulb. When I switched the lights to 12/12 I found the blooming
bulb would not work in the same ballast. I assumed that although new the bulb didn't work. I bought 2 other bloom bulbs from
2 other sources and neither worked. I picked up another 1000W ballast and this one says right on it --
use metal jalide bulbs only. Popped in one of the "dud" bloomers and it works fine. What's up?

BigSteve.

Click to expand...

you probably have 2 different types of ballasts. there are metal halide and high pressure sodium. they usually aren't compatible with both types of bulbs unless it specifically says it on the ballast. for a metal halide bulb you need a metal halide ballast.

lorenzo08 said:

trying to keep it as simple as possible, but still safe and not a fire hazard, you need a 50 amp sub panel with a dryer cord and a bunch of outlets on it for your room. you can't rig a smaller outlet to the 50 amp dryer outlet any other way without the big risk of fire. I've seen these sold online already put together, or you can have any electrician put it together for you. keep it safe

Click to expand...

What does the "sub panel" do? literally...

quick question...... can a dell computer power supply power cfl???? would it even be economical to do?

no computer supplies are dc voltage and cfls are ac voltage. dc is like you car and ac is your house

GypsyBush said:

What does the "sub panel" do? literally...

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a sub panel is basically the same thing as the breaker panel with all the breakers in it for your house. trying to hook up something to a dryer outlet is like trying to splice into the meter outside without any protection. you're almost certain to have a fire. having a sub panel to plug into the dryer outlet can safely give you 6 outlets each on their own 20 amp circuit breaker

lorenzo08 said:

a sub panel is basically the same thing as the breaker panel with all the breakers in it for your house. trying to hook up something to a dryer outlet is like trying to splice into the meter outside without any protection. you're almost certain to have a fire. having a sub panel to plug into the dryer outlet can safely give you 6 outlets each on their own 20 amp circuit breaker

Click to expand...

So the sub panel is like a "distribution center" of sorts...

Big power comes in from the dryer outlet (and it's 50 amp breaker)... and goes to a...

Is this where the relay goes?

I have most of the parts here... with a little help I can accomplish this...

Oh and the outlets I have look like a regular household outlet, but with the addition of a horizontal "T" on one of the prongs...

I am the only one here... and only the lights would plug in here.... don't even want to mess with the 120v... the house is good enough for that...



Thanks Lorenzo!!!!

GypsyBush said:

So the sub panel is like a "distribution center" of sorts...

Big power comes in from the dryer outlet (and it's 50 amp breaker)... and goes to a...

Is this where the relay goes?

I have most of the parts here... with a little help I can accomplish this...

Oh and the outlets I have look like a regular household outlet, but with the addition of a horizontal "T" on one of the prongs...

I am the only one here... and only the lights would plug in here.... don't even want to mess with the 120v... the house is good enough for that...



Thanks Lorenzo!!!!

Click to expand...

the sub panel is kinda like a distribution box. it splits off the higher current wire to lower current circuits. it also protects the smaller 20 amp outlets and wires from overload and fire. it will also distribute the 240 volts out to 120 volts, so there wouldn't be a need for a different power cord for the ballast.

you better be careful. don't mess around hooking a 120 volt outlet to a dryer outlet. that's just a stupid thing to try. you obviously don't know what you're messing with. not trying to pick a fight, but I don't want to see you get hurt. trust me, don't do it. you'd be better off running an extension cord from another room to power your ballast.

lorenzo08 said:

you probably have 2 different types of ballasts. there are metal halide and high pressure sodium. they usually aren't compatible with both types of bulbs unless it specifically says it on the ballast. for a metal halide bulb you need a metal halide ballast.

Click to expand...

Word on the street is that the dif between the MH and the HPS ballasts is just the igniter (easy to bypass)

But overall:
Though haven't tested or investigated it myself. Feel floros and/or CFLS are fine for veggin.

I understand the worry.. and I appreciate it...

With that said... if I can run a 120v extension cord from another room, why can't I run a 220v extension cord (of correct gage, with crimped connectors-no tape jobs)????

It seems generators have 220v cables...

Why is it so dangerous... won't be even close the the 50 amp rating on the circuit breaker....

I am not following...

And I will take your word for it, but it sure would be nice to continue...

I want to build the thing... I have the parts... it's serious yeah, but it's not brain surgery...

AND I UNDERSTAND IT IS SERIOUS... but I am comfortable with serious stuff...

Is there an electrician in the house willing to walk me through this...

I promise to follow directions and not cut corners....

Extension cords are frowned upon because most people just grab one. Fat insulation/cord means a LOT less then popper gauge. But insulation DOES matter. European companies are known to under rate the wire size, but compensate by increasing the *temp* rating of the insulation. (too much current makes heat and melts the insulation, causing a short and the possible fire shortly afterwards)

Now AC tends to flow along the perimeter of the wire, while DC like to go through the middle (too much info, I know)

I've hooked up machines wit 100A of 480VAC via 'bologna cord' (industrial extension cord; SEW?)

People here also get SO over worked and spew the doom and gloom of what they don't know about, and the worst part, they don't know *why* they spew the doom and gloom, just repeating whats been said prior.
(but the better safe then sorry does fit in)

(Lorenzo, don't read that last part, doesn't pertain to you)

Generators, Welders, lots of stuff have long range 220 ext cords.

GypsyBush said:

I understand the worry.. and I appreciate it...

With that said... if I can run a 120v extension cord from another room, why can't I run a 220v extension cord (of correct gage, with crimped connectors-no tape jobs)????

It seems generators have 220v cables...

Why is it so dangerous... won't be even close the the 50 amp rating on the circuit breaker....

I am not following...

And I will take your word for it, but it sure would be nice to continue...

I want to build the thing... I have the parts... it's serious yeah, but it's not brain surgery...

AND I UNDERSTAND IT IS SERIOUS... but I am comfortable with serious stuff...

Is there an electrician in the house willing to walk me through this...

I promise to follow directions and not cut corners....

Click to expand...

BigBudBalls said:

Extension cords are frowned upon because most people just grab one. Fat insulation/cord means a LOT less then popper gauge. But insulation DOES matter. European companies are known to under rate the wire size, but compensate by increasing the *temp* rating of the insulation. (too much current makes heat and melts the insulation, causing a short and the possible fire shortly afterwards)

Now AC tends to flow along the perimeter of the wire, while DC like to go through the middle (too much info, I know)

I've hooked up machines wit 100A of 480VAC via 'bologna cord' (industrial extension cord; SEW?)

People here also get SO over worked and spew the doom and gloom of what they don't know about, and the worst part, they don't know *why* they spew the doom and gloom, just repeating whats been said prior.
(but the better safe then sorry does fit in)

(Lorenzo, don't read that last part, doesn't pertain to you)

Generators, Welders, lots of stuff have long range 220 ext cords.

Click to expand...

So what would be the correct gage wire for an extension cord that can handle 240v and 50 amps?

I imagine I can crimp the dryer cord I have here to the correct gage wire and have a 240v outlet on the other end...

If I can have one outlet, I can have 3 or 4 right????

Is this really so dangerous... I though the dryer had to have all the protection to handle what it is rated for...

BigBudBalls you are a pretty smart guy... good common sense too.. I have read many a discussion of yours and Al B. Fuct...

I have a unused dryer outlet... 50 amp breaker...

I want to power 3x 600 w digital ballats... in the other room...

Waddayathink????

BigBudBalls said:

Extension cords are frowned upon because most people just grab one. Fat insulation/cord means a LOT less then popper gauge. But insulation DOES matter. European companies are known to under rate the wire size, but compensate by increasing the *temp* rating of the insulation. (too much current makes heat and melts the insulation, causing a short and the possible fire shortly afterwards)

Now AC tends to flow along the perimeter of the wire, while DC like to go through the middle (too much info, I know)

I've hooked up machines wit 100A of 480VAC via 'bologna cord' (industrial extension cord; SEW?)

People here also get SO over worked and spew the doom and gloom of what they don't know about, and the worst part, they don't know *why* they spew the doom and gloom, just repeating whats been said prior.
(but the better safe then sorry does fit in)

(Lorenzo, don't read that last part, doesn't pertain to you)

Generators, Welders, lots of stuff have long range 220 ext cords.

Click to expand...

I was waiting for you to chime in. lol

gypsy, I just want to make sure whatever you decide to do is safe. can't be to gun hoe with electricity. do it the right way and you can continue to live and grow. some of what you were saying just scared me.