Do LED Lights Really Improve Yield?

Hello all,

I've watched a few friends used HPS for years, but I'm considering using LED. There’s a lot of hype about higher yields and better energy efficiency. Is it worth the investment? Would love to hear real-world experiences.

Inputs would be appreciated.

There are pros and cons of both light systems, and when used to their potential and in the right system, they both perform very well. I’ve had tighter buds, less stretch, and higher yields with LED’s in my system, but I struggle with LEDs when seasonal temps make my space colder, and veg plants can be especially finicky about strong light with colder temps.

HID is less efficient but does generate more heat which can add a nice boost of warmth when needed. LEDs can also give more even canopy coverage and PAR ratings with the bar style lights, vs a traditional hot-spot of a single point source of HID. To counter that with HID, you’d need higher ceilings to raise your HID lights for better spread and more even coverage.

My HID stuff grew great weed, and it’s still sitting on my shelf, but now that I’m using tents, I find that LEDs work better for my needs and setup.

Hitting a gpw with led is easy compared to hps

LED's run cooler with more light/watt and you don't burn your hair when you stand up into a LED.

whatever gets full spectrum light on your plants is best, some lights only provide limited spectrum, not all lights are the same

Lilidomeetrixx said:

Hello all,

I've watched a few friends used HPS for years, but I'm considering using LED. There’s a lot of hype about higher yields and better energy efficiency. Is it worth the investment? Would love to hear real-world experiences.

Inputs would be appreciated.

Click to expand...

What do your HPS friends think?

Hugo Phurst said:

and you don't burn your hair when you stand up into a LED

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Lol
I burnt my back on a 1000 watter years ago! Doh!

Go with what you prefer led an cold turn up the heat a notch hps whatever you prefer more comfortable with I prefer double ended hps

LED’s also don’t lose spectrum like hps.
HPS loses spectrum from day 1 and need to be replaced much sooner

That's nice to know

Im a 1000w Halide 5500k-6000k kind of guy myself. No doubt, HPS will produce more, but there is mounting evidence heavy Blue during flowering, produces more varied chemical profiles, and more varied plant morphology.
Hotrilux has advertised this for year with their 5500k Hortilux Blue. It has also been used for medical research, because of this.

I also kind of digress that LED, are more efficient.

One Question is, how can a light be more efficient, for producing the fullest spectrum possible, that is like the sun, and basically omit the Invisible Spectrum, when 55%, of the Suns Energy, comes from Invisible spectrum? I agree LED has a better overall foot print. But a Hortilux Blue/5500k, and the MMS 1000w Have a spectrum of 280nm-2000+nm, and the same K rating as the sun, at midday.
Also agree both work, and if one lives in a hot climate, and struggle with heat? LED ARE MORE LOGICAL.

What one can do to supply heavier Blue with LED, would be to use ether a Solacure 10,000k UVA/B lamp(s), and a couple of Reptile Infrared Lamps. One need not run the Solacure more than 4 hours per day, or less depending on height from canopy. May not need to run the infrared more than 8-10 hours.

jimihendrix1 said:

May not need to run the infrared more than 8-10 hours.

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You have to be careful with the far red, infrared, not too much. It'll cause the plants to stretch too much.

I currently putting togeather a self made grow light full spectrum from leds, i just want the ability to be able to control at will everything and not pay hundreds of dollars. Yes I know it's messy no I don't mind, once done prototyping I will cnc aluminum housing

Moflow said:

You have to be careful with the far red, infrared, not too much. It'll cause the plants to stretch too much.

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I may possibly want my plants to stretch? The SUN, is loaded with IR. I specifically use Red, just for the stretching aspect.

Though an 1150w DE Gavita HPS has such powerful IR, it will roast plants at anything less than 3 feet, and 40 inches or a bit more, may be better.

And if one uses a 5500k-6000k Halide, it also has so much Blue, it will greatly counteract the stretch, even though Halide, in reality has as much, or more far red than an HPS, but is also geared more towards the Blue Spectrum, but less total photons, thuse why HPS will produce more.
What I like to do is for maximum production, and taking advantage of different spectrums.

I start seedlings under 1000w Hortilux Blue-5500k, or 1000w MMS-6000k. 20 inches from canopy. I let the seedlings grow into the light intensity. I also have very good fresh air exchange. More than they will ever use. Fan on slight breeze 24/7. Veg Light Duration 24/0. Every 4 days lights out 4 hours to let equipment/mainly bulbs cool off.
Seedlings are also in 36oz Solo Cups. I like big root balls.

Depending on if I can determine M/F, if I cannot, and they need larger containers, I will up pot to at least 1 gallon Medium, as I do not want anywhere near rootbound.
If I know F/M, I will up pot to 5 gallons.
I also Measure how far the light is, from th tops of the plants, and considering they will be in taller/larger containers, I will raise the light back up to match to original distance before transplant, so they will be right back at home with the same light saturation.
I will veg them for however long, and 7-10 days before flip, I switch out to a 1000w Hortilux HPS, and say I am growing a 10 weeks flowering strain, I will use the HPS for 21 days after flip, when on 22nd day, I switch back to the 1000w Halide.
If one is growing a super compact slow growing Indica type, one might start with 1000w HPS, from the start, and then 3 weeks after flip, use a Halide.
Halide is also way cooler than an HPS. HPS has to be 20% higher up.