DIY with Quantum Boards

FlakeyFoont

Well-Known Member
Anybody have an idea about my previous post about my HLG120 pulling 171W from the wall? I dimmed it down to 125W for now.

Also just found a source in SoCal for 300mmx1000mm anodized heatsink extrusions for $40 each! US based company but mfg is in Istanbul so it takes 3 weeks to arrive. This will let me mount 4 qb288 boards vertically (90 degrees from HLG slate design). Now I just need to find someone to thread the m3 hole pattern. Suggestions appreciated.
Easy peasy, use board as template, mark holes, drill holes, use self-tapping screws. Screw them into all the holes before you mount the board, makes 'em easier to fasten so you have less chance of damaging the board with a slip!
 

LarsVegasNirvana

Well-Known Member
Anybody have an idea about my previous post about my HLG120 pulling 171W from the wall? I dimmed it down to 125W for now.

Also just found a source in SoCal for 300mmx1000mm anodized heatsink extrusions for $40 each! US based company but mfg is in Istanbul so it takes 3 weeks to arrive. This will let me mount 4 qb288 boards vertically (90 degrees from HLG slate design). Now I just need to find someone to thread the m3 hole pattern. Suggestions appreciated.
It's not the Vo adjustment, because my 260w kit drivers (actually 240w hlg) draw 280w at the wall and they don't have voltage adjustment, only Io (current). The extra watts are lost as heat in the driver itself. When they say the driver is 92% efficient, that other 8% is lost as heat in the driver.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Quantum porn ....

Rigs : QB elite 96s with Agromax 10000k finisher and Pure Par T5HO ... ( QB 4000k 120w supplemental )
( 320w 96s / 120w QB 4000k ) 440w

8D6358F2-6DCD-4B20-9C71-A7C901BBC1DE.jpeg

QB 304 V1 ( 3500k ) / Citizen COBS ( 3500k ) .... cobs 120w / QB 300w dimmed 420w
Supplemental G8 ( 630-660nm deep red led ) 90w

887A06C7-AF47-4E6E-B4CE-127546755616.jpeg

Update :
Running all plants on layered soil ( FFOF/EBStone ) with Great White myco and MYCOCHUM . Top dress with FFOF
for feeding . Water TAP ( 6.5 -6.7 ) . Calmag every other watering.

AUTOS ( 2 ) : Sour Stomper x Purple Gorilla ( 1 gallon bags )

Both are doing well and as with many autos , shows different structures. Smell off these girls is a deep oily fruit . @HighLowGrow
Minor claw but plants are pushing through. Plants were pulled for watering today .

0636C6A2-B9ED-4716-97F2-BDD7278108B1.jpeg7FF95870-9E43-4DCF-9D0F-B36AFE1D6AD9.jpeg
09483D6C-D6AB-4B5E-8DDD-14499B8B3303.jpeg


(2) Sour Stomper x Purple Gorilla

Squaty structure with narrow leaf .... Minor LST done to “ open her up “.



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KKP [ Durban Poison x GG4 ] reg seed

Only female from 4 seed pops .... pretty Purp colors , dense flower.
Smell is deepsweet earthy But you have to be right her to get full nose .
Kelp was added to watering instead of some synth bloomer .

F7E76A33-C7D4-41DF-9C69-2DD90FA42EEC.jpeg962AFE76-3742-40BC-BED0-6B9C66F0BE22.jpeg

The Deputy ( Greenpoint seeds ) reg . And the GSG plants will be updated later.

Happy Gardening ... you filthy animals Lol. *grabs modelo and chugs
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
I finally got my first QB kit set up and running. I got a 4k version of the v1 288 kit. I set the driver to full and plugged it into my kill-a-watt, which registered 165watts pulled from the wall. I turned it down to 135w and let it run for a couple of hours, and the driver did feel a bit warmer than I expected. I'm thinking it might be better to run the driver remotely instead of bolted to the back of the heatsink. I decided to crank it down to 100w since I'm using it in a veg tent and just have one small plant in there now. Love the nice even spread tho, compared to a 200w cheap cob system it's replacing.
 

daveybc

Well-Known Member
I would get 2 or 3 qb288 rpec/other w/heatsinks ( or qb96elite ) on a 240 or 320 w driver. I love the 96elite engine and 2 of those on a 320 watt driver would rock, 3 on a 320 watt driver even better. The quantum boards will give you 6 or 7" more headroom, if height is a concern.

Also 4x qb120 or 132 would work. No heatsink either. Lots of choices so you will have to take time to sort out "your" style.. Lots of reference on this thread. Good luck.

I’m new to this. I’m in search of a sufficient light to veg a 3x3x6
 

XtraGood

Well-Known Member
@daveybc I just got done reading the prior 20 some pages of this thread trying to figure out more details on what happened with that HLG-185H-54A you had that was doing 265 at the wall. I have some QB96s and HLG-185H-54A's...and I'll have some extras of the drivers if I can consistently run two boards on one driver. You said you were running two QB96's on yours, how has that worked out now that you've done it for a while? I put together my first QB96 with the same driver recently and maxed it at 267 watts at the wall on a kill-a-watt brand meter, I'm hoping to do what you did and add a second board. Are you running the driver at max output, or close to max these days? Any thoughts about the combo?

I also read elsewhere that these HLG LED drivers run more efficient the closer to maxed out they get? I think I saw I chart in a spec sheet that confirmed that but would like to be corrected if I'm wrong before I run a bunch of these drivers maxed out in practice...

Also thanks for all the info everybody, lots to read here, great stuff.
 
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Barristan Whitebeard

Well-Known Member
@daveybc I just got done reading the prior 20 some pages of this thread trying to figure out more details on what happened with that HLG-185H-54A you had that was doing 265 at the wall. I have some QB96s and HLG-185H-54A's...and I'll have some extras of the drivers if I can consistently run two boards on one driver. You said you were running two QB96's on yours, how has that worked out now that you've done it for a while? I put together my first QB96 with the same driver recently and maxed it at 267 watts at the wall on a kill-a-watt brand meter, I'm hoping to do what you did and add a second board. Are you running the driver at max output, or close to max these days? Any thoughts about the combo?

I also read elsewhere that these HLG LED drivers run more efficient the closer to maxed out they get? I think I saw I chart in a spec sheet that confirmed that but would like to be corrected if I'm wrong before I run a bunch of these drivers maxed out in practice...

Also thanks for all the info everybody, lots to read here, great stuff.
 

Barristan Whitebeard

Well-Known Member
@daveybc I just got done reading the prior 20 some pages of this thread trying to figure out more details on what happened with that HLG-185H-54A you had that was doing 265 at the wall. I have some QB96s and HLG-185H-54A's...and I'll have some extras of the drivers if I can consistently run two boards on one driver. You said you were running two QB96's on yours, how has that worked out now that you've done it for a while? I put together my first QB96 with the same driver recently and maxed it at 267 watts at the wall on a kill-a-watt brand meter, I'm hoping to do what you did and add a second board. Are you running the driver at max output, or close to max these days? Any thoughts about the combo?

I also read elsewhere that these HLG LED drivers run more efficient the closer to maxed out they get? I think I saw I chart in a spec sheet that confirmed that but would like to be corrected if I'm wrong before I run a bunch of these drivers maxed out in practice...

Also thanks for all the info everybody, lots to read here, great stuff.
There is an efficiency versus load graph that should give you a decent idea in the applicable datasheet. They run slightly less efficiently on 120v compared to 240v, at least with the HLG series, which is what I have experience with.
On 120v, according to the datasheet, an 80 or 90% load is more efficient than a 100% load by a couple percentage points. This may vary by model.
I've seen @Rocket Soul recommend checking out the Reports section on the mean well website for real world data.
 

daveybc

Well-Known Member
THe 2 qb96e per 185 driver are doing great. My wall meter shows 255 w per 2 boards max ( on 185 54a ) and I run them at 205w per 2 boards ( the wall meter is a guideline for me are not 100 percent accurate ). Last runs I had 185 w driver per 96E and dialed to 160-170 each x 4. I feel the 100 w x 6 is way better than 170 w x 4. Right now my 4x8 tent runs with a combination of 240 c2100a and 185 54a drivers 2 boards driver. I got 6 qb96e (2 boards per 185a ) , 4 qb288 v1 3000k ( 2 boards per 240 c2100a ), 2 qb288 v1 2700k ( on 185 54a ), 1 Rspec in the middle on dedicated 185 54a. Everything is turned to about 103 watts per board ( on wall meter ). My total amps being drawn is 11.2 amps. I am really happy about that..

Interesting note, my hlg 240h c2100a runs hotter than the hlg 185h 54a set to the same wattage. Only difference is qb288 3000k wired in series vs qb288 2700k wired in parallel. You would think that would be reversed..

I believe that 80 watts per board is the most efficient from I remember reading somewhere. I am sure the measurement would be from the driver to the DC board. As well yes the 240V is more efficient than 120v according to the data sheets.

When I first looked at HLG I was thinking big driver on boards, max wattage. Now I think lower is better in many ways. Heat, efficiency, life.


@daveybc I just got done reading the prior 20 some pages of this thread trying to figure out more details on what happened with that HLG-185H-54A you had that was doing 265 at the wall. I have some QB96s and HLG-185H-54A's...and I'll have some extras of the drivers if I can consistently run two boards on one driver. You said you were running two QB96's on yours, how has that worked out now that you've done it for a while? I put together my first QB96 with the same driver recently and maxed it at 267 watts at the wall on a kill-a-watt brand meter, I'm hoping to do what you did and add a second board. Are you running the driver at max output, or close to max these days? Any thoughts about the combo?

I also read elsewhere that these HLG LED drivers run more efficient the closer to maxed out they get? I think I saw I chart in a spec sheet that confirmed that but would like to be corrected if I'm wrong before I run a bunch of these drivers maxed out in practice...

Also thanks for all the info everybody, lots to read here, great stuff.
 
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707finisher

Member
I have a 2x4x5 tent with a 400w hps on one side and a viparspectra 300 burple that’s 135w actual watt supposedly. Have a 32x32” with 8 t5 bulbs for veg, and a 2x2’ with 2 135w cfl for seeds and clones.

I originally bought the 400w thinking it would be enough for the 2x4 but felt like it wasn’t enough right away, I added the 2 135w cfl and it seemed to help, so I bought the burple to try it, it was for supplemental lighting.

Along the way I stuck some seedlings in the flower tent as a test. It was jack herer and they did amazing. I believe it was the light intensity they liked. So after reading all the quantum board stuff and looking at hlg mars spider farm I ended up going with the kingbrite boards. I got a 240 w in 4000k for the 32” tent and a 125 w in 3000k for the flower tent. The people were no nonsense, and the girl even gave me a 2$ discount, not much but more than Mars offered, mars is a sponsor at thcfarmer. I have a grow journal there and asked for a discount, I would have used all their stuff if they had.
In construction there is house wrap duct tape plywood etc of various types. I understanded quantum boards as a trade reference. There’s an led street light outside my house, I looked at it when it was off, I called it a quantum board, idk. Lol I want to see results and have reliable products. I hope to see it with these, have to be better than what I got now. And kingbrite has great customer service, easy transaction. I think their doing a great job.
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
I figure most this shits made in China anyway, why pay the greedy middle men to outsource?
Yeah but HLG QBs are not made in china, they are made in the USA, providing jobs for USA citizens and paying tax into their own country, not sending the manufacturing off to china so they can put food in their kids mouths.

If you research and design a product it cost money, then you purchase the equipment to build those products, that costs money , then you send out free lights to known growers to prove the performance of that product, then you get them sphere tested , all this cost money, money which needs to be recouped, just like in any industry.

Then you build the brand name and at that point the Chinese come along and copy it, in some cases with an inferior product, then they cut the price by a massive chunk because labour is cheap when human rights are non existent and quality control is less.

There's a thread for knock off boards, this is not it! You have the right to buy what you want from where you want but don't come in this thread saying shit like "why pay the greedy middle man" because you clearly don't have a fucking clue what your talking about.
 

hillbill

Well-Known Member
Are those v1 kits still worthwhile with all the new diodes out now? Now running 600 watts 3 and 4 year old COBs and older A51 white Cree 5w panels. Would I be buying obsolete tech?
My newest COB fixture is a 2016 Northern Photon 180 from Robin.
 
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pop22

Well-Known Member
If you'd actually red the thread, you'd have seen that HLG has their own manufacturing facility. They started out with boards THEY designed and test, then had built in China to their specs. They didn't just slap some chips on a board, they spent hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars on this project. As the business grew, they poured their money into their own plant. Spend $15 more and buy quality and get a warranty that doesn't require you to ship shit to China!
Fuck those thieving Chinese so called "merchants" who do nothing but steal other people's intellectual property.





I have a 2x4x5 tent with a 400w hps on one side and a viparspectra 300 burple that’s 135w actual watt supposedly. Have a 32x32” with 8 t5 bulbs for veg, and a 2x2’ with 2 135w cfl for seeds and clones.

I originally bought the 400w thinking it would be enough for the 2x4 but felt like it wasn’t enough right away, I added the 2 135w cfl and it seemed to help, so I bought the burple to try it, it was for supplemental lighting.

Along the way I stuck some seedlings in the flower tent as a test. It was jack herer and they did amazing. I believe it was the light intensity they liked. So after reading all the quantum board stuff and looking at hlg mars spider farm I ended up going with the kingbrite boards. I got a 240 w in 4000k for the 32” tent and a 125 w in 3000k for the flower tent. The people were no nonsense, and the girl even gave me a 2$ discount, not much but more than Mars offered, mars is a sponsor at thcfarmer. I have a grow journal there and asked for a discount, I would have used all their stuff if they had.
In construction there is house wrap duct tape plywood etc of various types. I understanded quantum boards as a trade reference. There’s an led street light outside my house, I looked at it when it was off, I called it a quantum board, idk. Lol I want to see results and have reliable products. I hope to see it with these, have to be better than what I got now. And kingbrite has great customer service, easy transaction. I think their doing a great job.
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Are those v1 kits still worthwhile with all the new diodes out now? Now running 600 watts 3 and 4 year old COBs and older A51 white Cree 5w panels. Would I be buying obsolete tech?
Mine are still doing the same job they were when I got them, albeit for someone else for the moment.
I didn't see a difference between v1 and v2 in the weight, but hard to compare 3k v1 to 4k v2 and I haven't used rspecs.

In my eyes the v1s been $29 a board its a bargain.
Would like to see more side by sides with actual weights and chemical analysis with the v1-v2-rspecs.
 
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