DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

poxa

Member
Thanks EfficientWatt, shine on your post.
Are they really two bingos?

750ppfd for a 2.6x2.6 = 750*0.64 = 480 micromols
480 / 4.67 umol = 102.8 W PAR

CXB3590 CB @75.5W : 36v@2100mA / 72V@1050mA
- If 3 CXB3590 CB @75.54W has 45.59% efficiency
=> (3*75.54) x 0.4559 = 103.3 W PAR => 3 CXB3590 CB @75.54W => 103.3 W Par BINGO ! 103.3 W PAR => 103.3*4.67 which is 482umols and 753ppfd
- If 3 CXB3590 CD @75.54W has 49.71% efficiency
=> (3*75.54) x 0.4971 = 112.6 W PAR => 3 CXB3590 CD @75.54W => 112.6 W Par BINGO ! 112.6 W PAR => 112.6*4.67 which is 525umols and 820ppfd

They run at ~75W each.
Looks like MW is planning a ELG-240-C ! Now if it's anywhere between 45 and 55€, it will be a game changer for price.
Could run 3x75W ... and hopefully 5x49W and 4x 62W !!! (102%-104% load)
 

EfficientWatt

Well-Known Member
@poxa : amount of light is good but :

1) You most probably wont find a good driver to run 3. You could use a hlg 120H for 2 and another driver to power the 3rd cob.

2) Lighting a square area with 3 sources is a brainfuck, to me at least.

HLG 185H and 4 CXB 3590 CD @ 48.85W will work great too. (You can do the math if you want, after a while, you'll be able to guestimate pretty quickly ...)

You'll have to buy one more cob, but only one driver, so all in all it's not that much more.
Less total watts, but better efficiency and uniform spread.
 

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Bonjour
Yes 4 cob, for 80x80 sound great...40x40 for each =no dark spot and you could build 4 pannels for a very nice light spread
Have a great day ★
 

poxa

Member
@poxa : HLG 185H and 4 CXB 3590 CD @ 48.85W will work great too. (You can do the math if you want, after a while, you'll be able to guestimate pretty quickly ...)
Here's the math, if correct: is advisable the CD umols/ppdf @1400? Just wondering if values @2100 could be considered like a near overkill.

Target 102.8 PAR - 750ppfd (75%) - 480 micromols - ppfd = [umols/480] - Overkill 1562.5 ppfd [480/umols]
- 4 CB x 48.85 @1400 51.67% => 4 CXB3590 CB @48.85W => 100.9 W PAR => 471umols and 981/1562.5ppfd
- 4 CD x 48.85 @1400 56.64% => 4 CXB3590 CD @48.85W => 110.6 W PAR => 517umols and 1076ppfd/1562.5ppfd
- 4 CB x 75.54 @2100 45.59% => 4 CXB3590 CD @75.54W => 137.7 W PAR => 643umols and 1339/1562.5ppfd

HLG-185H-C1400A or B only for the 36v option: if I don't wire any potentiometer between Dim+/Dim- is dimmable version running like an 'A'? Thanks for all your help so far people!
 
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MAXMVP10

Member
If I was lighting a box that small I would use vero 18 and drive them soft. I would do 3-4 of them at 700ma. Remember bigger cobs need some headroom. Smaller cobs softly driven can get much closer to the plants without damaging them.

Just my 2cents.

Thank you very much, SomeGuy! But there are no Bridgelux Vero 18 cobs on the market in my country - can I replace Vero 18 with Cree CXA2530 (if I'm not mistaken it is the most similar product to Vero 18 from Cree, right?)?

1) Should I use 5000k for growing?

2) What is the needed MeanWell driver to run 3 Cree CXA2530 (36V) at 700 mA? How many WATTS should it have??

Thanks,

Max
 

Castaman

Well-Known Member
While everybody r in rush with 3590's, i'm building a lower budget project with 3x2540's (1x5000k(W4)+2x3000k(V4)).
How do you think will LPC-150-1400 be perfect choice considering low budget idea, or it's better looking for HLG-120H-C1400B? I expect about 38% efficiency at 1400mA
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
While everybody r in rush with 3590's, i'm building a lower budget project with 3x2540's (1x5000k(W4)+2x3000k(V4)).
How do you think will LPC-150-1400 be perfect choice considering low budget idea, or it's better looking for HLG-120H-C1400B? I expect about 38% efficiency at 1400mA
I'd go with Vero18 instead.
If you don't need dimming take LPC. Also make sure that you're using CXB2540. The drivers probably wouldn't handle CXA's.
 

SomeGuy

Well-Known Member
Thank you very much, SomeGuy! But there are no Bridgelux Vero 18 cobs on the market in my country - can I replace Vero 18 with Cree CXA2530 (if I'm not mistaken it is the most similar product to Vero 18 from Cree, right?)?

1) Should I use 5000k for growing?

2) What is the needed MeanWell driver to run 3 Cree CXA2530 (36V) at 700 mA? How many WATTS should it have??

Thanks,

Max

1. If you are building just a veg light I would use vero 10 or equivalent and run at 300ma all sorts of ways to attack driving them depending on how many. add forward volatage of the cobs and compare to driver voltage output range. :-) OH yes... my vero 10 bars are 5000k and grow great. wouldnt flower with them. Use bigger cobs for flower or for all around light bigger cob with dimmable driver

2. Not sure. Just like you I would have to dig on here a bit. Supra has a chart on almost everything somewhere on here. :-) My last build was all individual drivers. I have a hlg185b at 1050ma sitting in a box with a whole bunch of parts waiting to be built... IMO 3 2530 at 700ma would do great in that small space for flower. If you did them dimmable it would be great for start to finish I would think.

All just my opinion. :-) good luck with your build. I hope it comes out great.
 

EfficientWatt

Well-Known Member
Was checking out cxB2540 vs cxA2540 with the PCT, and noticed :

They have the same efficiency ~@600mA, cxb2540 being more efficient at higher currents, but CXA2540 is more efficient <600mA wtf ?!

EDIT : Same for 3070's, they're efficencies seem to cross at ~450mA :shock:

Doesn't seem to happen to the 3590's tho ...

I'd go with Vero18 instead.
If you don't need dimming take LPC. Also make sure that you're using CXB2540. The drivers probably wouldn't handle CXA's.
 
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PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
electronic question on drivers.

If a driver, like the meanwell hlg-185s, has three wires (red pos, black neg , green ground) what does the green ground wire do inside the driver unit ?

Is the external chassis for the HLG grounded ? ie when I screw it down to my heatsink, is my heatsink also grounded ?
 

robincnn

Well-Known Member
I did the test as @salmonetin suggested with multimeter.
The meanwell HLG-120 chassis is grounded but metal case is anodized and non conductive.
There are 3 or more small hexagonal shapes that pop out at bottom and are conductive, if these touch heatsink then its grounded
also screw might likely chip away a little anodized layer so very likely heatsink grounded too. But good to check.
 
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salmonetin

Well-Known Member
If a driver, like the meanwell hlg-185s, has three wires (red pos, black neg , green ground) what does the green ground wire do inside the driver unit ?
...the HLG... AC wires are brown - line ...blue - neutral....green/yellow - ground...

...red + and black - are the outputs on DC side...

...and blue + and white - are the Dimming wires on models B... sds talk about these wires on the meanwell 3 in 1 dimming thread...:clap: :hump:

...for test green/yellow wire and chasis conection/s... the driver MUST BE disconected from AC lines... then test with multimeter with sound...;)

:peace:

Saludos
 
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Castaman

Well-Known Member
Can anyone explain what happens if led driver will be a little over voltage?
I have 3xCXA 2540 - 36.2v (1.1A) + MW HLG-120H-1400B (108v max).
Will they work together at 1400mA?
 

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
Quick math check for those fluent. Spent most of the morning/afternoon hunting down all the sheets for correct figures, all but one, relying on Cree PCT for the CXB BB 4000k

Ran at 1400mA:
Assuming the LER for the 4k is 323

CXA AB 3000k - 52.22W x 4 = 208.88W Efficiency = 43.31%
CXB AD 3500k - 49.83W x 2 = 99.66W Efficiency = 48.02%
CXB BB 4000k - 49.315W x 1 = 49.315W Efficiency = 153.9 / 323 = 47.64%
total Dissipation Watt - 357.855

3000k - 208.88 x .4331 = 90.4659 PARwatts
3500k - 99.66 x .4802 = 47.8567 PARwatts
4000k - 49.315 x .4764 = 23.4936 PARwatts
total PARwatts - 161.8162

161.8162 / 8 = 20.227 PAR FT2

161.8162 X 4.88 = 789.663 PPF
my eyes crossed after reading this!lol!
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
I did the test as @salmonetin suggested with multimeter.
The meanwell HLG-120 chassis is grounded but metal case is anodized and non conductive.
There are 3 or more small hexagonal shapes that pop out at bottom and are conductive, if these touch heatsink then its grounded
also screw might likely chip away a little anodized layer so very likely heatsink grounded too. But good to check.
thanks sal and robin, great help, i'll keep a lead off the AC ground wire screwed to the heatsink, seems safer since the meanwell chassis is anodized.
 
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