DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
That is an awesome cooling rig but for the price you could buy a whole lot of heatsink so you would get better spread and efficiency.
 
B

blueylol

Active Member
oh yeah no doubt the price blows, but i was just thinking for maximum performance out of your COB's if you had some money to throw at it. would it be viable considering the radiator is in the room
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
epicfail said:
I know the Mean Well drivers can be dimmed with resistance, 1-10 analog volts, or 1-10v pwm. It should act the same no matter what way you do it with the built in 3-in-1 dimmer function. It works be telling the driver to reduce output current.



Do you mean instead of reducing the current to lets say 700mA from 1400mA with a 100k Ω pot, which give a steady current of 700mA. It dims by cutting the current on/off so that its still 1400mA but flickering really fast. That sounds like what your headlamp is doing, kinda like a shitty refresh rate. I have seen fan speed and 3mm leds controlled like that, Im pretty sure that's not how these drivers work.

The problem I have run into is that the arduino PWM voltage is only 0-5v and I have to build a circuit that will multiply the voltage to make it 0-10v. All of this at the moment its way over my head, more testing is required but I am determined to figure it out and to paraphrase/misquote JFK.

We choose to do these things not because they are easy, but because they are hard and we have nothing else to do.
Click to expand...

Option A ) Simple Voltage regulator 10V pwm ,from Arduino .

1x L7810 Voltage Regulator .
1x Electrolytic cap 47uF / 16 V
1x Ceramic cap 100nF
1x 2N3904 transistor
1x 4700 ohm resistor .
......
& 12 VDC power supply

pwm 10 V.JPG
10 vdc gnd pwm.jpg
Don 't forget :

* Connect Ground (-) of the 12 VDC supply with Arduino's ground ,if Arduino is powered by a different
power supply ...Always "Common Ground" between different circuits ......
(In this case : ! Does not apply for the gnd pwm output ! )

*Total cost: probably less than $5 .

+10 VDC out goes to " Dim +" of driver ,likewise GND PWM out goes to " Dim- " of driver ...


With Arduino 's 'pwm library ' and some code lines one can replicate very easily ,with plenty of parameters set , dimming control like " Dawn" ,"Dusk " Noon Peak" , " Cloudy weather / gimme a break for five - " ,etc ...

{ -Set a operational Pwm frequency .Usual range is 100Hz - 1000 Hz.Check led driver's spec sheet for detailed manufacturer's recommendation / guides .

-Dimming is achieved by adjusting the duty cycle of the pwm ....
From 0% up to 100% of duty cycle.

-Of course both manually or automatically dimming ,or both ,
can be programmed with Arduino ...
( Interrupts and manual overide if switch ..blah ,blah ...Manual control also can be done
from using a pot ,to utilising touch sensors ... Or even a touch screen ..!!! 8-) )
 
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purplegrower02

Well-Known Member
That water cooler is nice for computers but I don't think it's too great for our application.
I would rather use heatsinks drill a .250 hole threw the length of it run copper tubing threw in then out of the room to a atv, motorcycle radiator with a 20 mm fan and that would do a better job for cooling and cost less.

of course you need a Bridgeport/mill or a lathe to really do it properly but you could get away with doing it with a hand drill and a 24" drill bit.

I've come up with some blueprints of a similar set-up. It uses a 1/2 inch aluminum plate 3x3 or 4x4 with 3/16 or 1/4 copper tubing run threw it then bend a bunch of 180 copper angles to make a simple snake or car radiator design and bringIit out of the room to a actual cooling radiator.

with straight water and a added cooling agent I'm sure you could pull some amazing numbers.

I'm planning on building one during the slow nov, Dec season.
 
Golderado

Golderado

Member
CaliWorthington said:
Here we go then.







Plants were light deprived for 3+ days while I setup the COBs. The sativas were on the outskirts of the 560-watt Chinese panel for weeks too. They're all starting to recover already, and it's only their second 18-hour under the 3070's. Also I plan to get Orca film all along that back wall soon.
Click to expand...
Any update? :)
Such a sweet set up!
Got a journal going or something? Would like to fallow! :bigjoint:
 
CaliWorthington

CaliWorthington

Well-Known Member
Golderado said:
Any update? :)
Such a sweet set up!
Got a journal going or something? Would like to fallow! :bigjoint:
Click to expand...
I'll start a thread soon. Those plants got huge and now I want to put my own hybrid into bloom for the first time. So I have to hang the Chinese LED back up, and maybe sacrifice one or two of the big plants. I'm trying to avoid that, but can't really think of a solution. It's too hot in my garage to put a tent, forget it.
 
W

Westnewton

Active Member
Greengenes707 said:
Great light. You and I are thinking a like. Getting everything tidy and clean in those "housing rail" is exactly what I am trying to do. I was going to do some sheet metal work, but why re-invent the wheel when they can come out so clean like yours.
Click to expand...
Thank you. I would like to see a sheet metal one if you build it.
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
blueylol said:
oh yeah no doubt the price blows, but i was just thinking for maximum performance out of your COB's if you had some money to throw at it. would it be viable considering the radiator is in the room
Click to expand...
I see your point, if for some reason your design required a single light source that might be a good way to go (CXA3590 running hard). But if you are able to spend that $$ on running at a lower current, you can achieve even high levels of light output for the less $. If for some reason maximum efficiency was the design goal, you could run the CXA3070 AB at 300mA and get up to 56% efficiency. That would cost $9.09/PAR Watt for the emitters, but the driver and heatsink cost would be much lower and of course the electric bill also.
 
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CaliWorthington

CaliWorthington

Well-Known Member
Listen to wise Supra, grasshopper. The 3070 is so bright at 1.4mA, I can't imagine running them hotter. 20 of them is bright like the sun. I wear Oakley sunglasses in there, until I start sweating too much.

Plus they do give off quite a bit of heat from the front of the egg. I don't think you can remove heat emanating from the front, no matter what kind of heatsink you use. I could be wrong.

[edit] Sorry, I got confused for a minute. Disregard what I typed here before. I got that mixed up with someone who wanted to run a CPU liquid cooler with their hydro reservoir, which might be a bad idea due to corrosion. I'm sure you could use liquid cooling on these COBs if you really wanted to, but I would put the radiator in a different room or not bother.
 
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SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Nice work BT! So you have 160 dissipation watts at 42% efficiency, no too shabby! What are you powering your fans with and what is the Fasttech driver powering?
 
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