Dick does dank 2.0

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Overcrowding is becoming an issue. Recently added another satellite veg tent to alleviate some of our space issues. Had clones that were literally growing right into the T5 bulbs as you can see from the burnt tops. More vertical space was needed so ordered a small cheapo tent and led. Says led panel is 1000w output but I seriously doubt that; it is fairly bright though. Probably more like 300w equivalent...not bad for the price. Hard to believe this whole set up was $120:


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DonPetro

Well-Known Member
Overcrowding is becoming an issue. Recently added another satellite veg tent to alleviate some of our space issues. Had clones that were literally growing right into the T5 bulbs as you can see from the burnt tops. More vertical space was needed so ordered a small cheapo tent and led. Says led panel is 1000w output but I seriously doubt that; it is fairly bright though. Probably more like 300w equivalent...not bad for the price. Hard to believe this whole set up was $120:


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Nice. Is that just the veg spectrum turned on?
 

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
Overcrowding is becoming an issue. Recently added another satellite veg tent to alleviate some of our space issues. Had clones that were literally growing right into the T5 bulbs as you can see from the burnt tops. More vertical space was needed so ordered a small cheapo tent and led. Says led panel is 1000w output but I seriously doubt that; it is fairly bright though. Probably more like 300w equivalent...not bad for the price. Hard to believe this whole set up was $120:


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Turn on the reds, they’ll love it
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Nice. Is that just the veg spectrum turned on?
Yep. I like this blue/white setting; all my other cheapo panels are blurple.
Turn on the reds, they’ll love it
Trying to keep these growing super slowly. They are purposely being held back because of a renovation but they will be in a new home soon. Was thinking that the bluer spectrum might induce tighter nodes than the red....

In other news the main veg tent is also at full capacity. These will be flipped as space in the flowering area is made. One or two of these will end up as mothers but the rest need to be flipped asap. There are 6 plants currently in the bloom room; can probably squeeze a few more.
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Yep. I like this blue/white setting; all my other cheapo panels are blurple.

Trying to keep these growing super slowly. They are purposely being held back because of a renovation but they will be in a new home soon. Was thinking that the bluer spectrum might induce tighter nodes than the red....

In other news the main veg tent is also at full capacity. These will be flipped as space in the flowering area is made. One or two of these will end up as mothers but the rest need to be flipped asap. There are 6 plants currently in the bloom room; can probably squeeze a few more.
Oh shit; forgot to post the pic...
silly me; half of these are BDxCmh the other are BBHBxCmh so they all have the same daddy. Problem is I can't tell which is which now lol
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Kushash

Well-Known Member
Time for some bud porn. These are Blueberry headband x CMH near the end of week 4.....
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Hi Richard.

I have been running the same re amended soil for about 5 or 6 years.
I usually have to leach the soil from a build up between mixing new batches.
The build up often creates a dark yellow or orange run off high in ppms.
I do not water to run off during the grow itself, in the flowering stage I water almost daily in small amounts.
I was wondering if you need to leach your soil between grows?
 

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
Hi Richard.

I have been running the same re amended soil for about 5 or 6 years.
I usually have to leach the soil from a build up between mixing new batches.
The build up often creates a dark yellow or orange run off high in ppms.
I do not water to run off during the grow itself, in the flowering stage I water almost daily in small amounts.
I was wondering if you need to leach your soil between grows?
I’m curious, how do you flush your soil after several grows? I have about 150lbs of soil that I’ve been amending for 3.5 years.... no issues as of yet... but I have noticed that white brine look around my pot drain holes... it is showing up quicker and quicker on each consecutive grow
 

Kushash

Well-Known Member
I’m curious, how do you flush your soil after several grows? I have about 150lbs of soil that I’ve been amending for 3.5 years.... no issues as of yet... but I have noticed that white brine look around my pot drain holes... it is showing up quicker and quicker on each consecutive grow
At harvest I dump the pots into 33 gallon barrels break them up and throw away the stem then when I'm ready to amend a soil I fill the bottom couple of inches of a 5 gallon pot with perlite then shovel in the soil from the barrel and put them on a table in the back yard and run tap water through them until the run off color improves then dump them on a large tarp in my garage to be amended.
The perlite keeps the soil from being lost through the drain holes and would have been added anyway when the soil is amended. Sometimes like this time I don't do the perlite layer and run the water through slower.

It's my least favorite task do to the heavy lifting.
I wear a lifters belt and found ways to move the pots using a hand truck that converts into a dolly.

Not sure if this is a proper method or not.
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Hi Richard.

I have been running the same re amended soil for about 5 or 6 years.
I usually have to leach the soil from a build up between mixing new batches.
The build up often creates a dark yellow or orange run off high in ppms.
I do not water to run off during the grow itself, in the flowering stage I water almost daily in small amounts.
I was wondering if you need to leach your soil between grows?
No I usually just wait until the root ball is dry and then dump it into a bigass tote bin. Much like you do. The mix is typically dry by then so I need to hydrate it by adding lots of water which can kinda turn it muddy for a few days. Then I add in fresh worm castings and perlite if/as needed. From there I either amend the mix further if needed or just it use as is. If heavily amended I try to let it set for 30 days and just keep it moist.
The difference I think is your no till method which I would guess is why you opt for keeping the pots intact when's you water to runoff. I don't know how bad is actually is to basically destroy the soil web each time I harvest by breaking it up with a rusty old shovel but that's how I do it. Seems like as long as you keep adding back active compost the soil is recharged for another run either way you do it.
I should note that I use blumats for auto watering through the entire bloom phase. They usually don't cause runoff unless I set them to drip too heavily. Once the plants are totally finished I will pull out the watering carrots and let the root balls go dry for a few days before chopping.
 

Growitpondifarm

Well-Known Member
No I usually just wait until the root ball is dry and then dump it into a bigass tote bin. Much like you do. The mix is typically dry by then so I need to hydrate it by adding lots of water which can kinda turn it muddy for a few days. Then I add in fresh worm castings and perlite if/as needed. From there I either amend the mix further if needed or just it use as is. If heavily amended I try to let it set for 30 days and just keep it moist.
The difference I think is your no till method which I would guess is why you opt for keeping the pots intact when's you water to runoff. I don't know how bad is actually is to basically destroy the soil web each time I harvest by breaking it up with a rusty old shovel but that's how I do it. Seems like as long as you keep adding back active compost the soil is recharged for another run either way you do it.
I should note that I use blumats for auto watering through the entire bloom phase. They usually don't cause runoff unless I set them to drip too heavily. Once the plants are totally finished I will pull out the watering carrots and let the root balls go dry for a few days before chopping.
How do you like the Blu-mats? What’s your setup? From what I understand of them you don’t need any type of pumps to move the water so I’m assuming you just have your water tank above the carrots and your good to go? I hate having to water so these seem like the way to go. Looking good in here !
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
How do you like the Blu-mats? What’s your setup? From what I understand of them you don’t need any type of pumps to move the water so I’m assuming you just have your water tank above the carrots and your good to go? I hate having to water so these seem like the way to go. Looking good in here !
Thanks! Here's to another long ass winded reply lol:
I freakin love blumats; they are definitely the way to go. Require no power but the reservoir bucket (or diy storage vessel) needs to stay topped off for even distribution because it is just gravity fed. The drip flow sorta slows down a bit as the water level gets low. It can be a bit tricky at first to dial in the proper drip but once it's set you can pretty much forget it as long as the bucket NEVER runs dry. If any air gets in the system you have to bleed it off again like the brakes on an old car. The carrots can also dry out and need to be soaked and re-filled every so often; they passively regulate the drip flow +/- when functioning properly. One carrot will water a 5 gal pot very well; I'm getting away with only 1 carrot per 10 or 7gal but two probably is better. I still hand water if the pots feel light maybe every 10-14 days or so.
One issue I found was when I raised up the reservoir bucket there was no room to fill it up again due to a low ceiling. Employed a small pump to move water from a source bucket to the res. Drilled a hole in the lid and put in a patron cork float glued to a wood dowel, and white tape over the tip indicating low/full levels. I can put it on a recycle timer for daily fill ups but it's overkill unless I'm on vacation. Nice to have watering on auto pilot but it's also as easy to forget all about it. Sometimes I don't look at my plants for days.

Hey Richard, do you have to reduce the watering amount in the last weeks of flower to avoid root rot?
Thanks for posting your detailed reply's!
No but do I pull the carrots out in the final few days before chopping just to conserve water and begin drying them out. Root rot is not an issue if you use fabric pots; any excess water runs off onto the floor. I thought that a constant drip would cause problems too but it's actually not constant; the drip flow varies depending upon how much moisture is present in the root zone. The blumat carrots sweat moisture through the terra cotta and this opens or closes the drip flow valve slightly thereby controlling the drip flow somewhat. The roots suck up moisture from the carrots. That's why the system gets so out of whack if it goes dry & the plants can get dried out real fast.
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
One thing to add about blumats is to keep the feeder hose at an even height. I zip tied the main feed hose to the handles of my smart pots to keep the flow nice and even. If there is too much of a "hump" the flow can be impeded; sometimes just turning the T-joint for the feeder line will increase drip flow and then the valve needs to be reset again. Even just moving plants around can cause flow issues so you gotta just set it and forget it. You want to set the valve so a water droplet is always just about to drip off; a drip per second is a little too much. More like every 5 secs.
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Enough about blumats how bout some premature bud porn....
These BBHB x CMH are starting to turn purple in week 7; the smell has been described as a dead skunk smothered in blueberry sauce...

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You can see how monster cropping really stacks up the nodes to make for some bigass bud. Hoping these will finish in 3 more weeks as the next set of plants have already been squeezed in the back of the bloom room.
 

Hydrotech364

Well-Known Member
Which ones exactly? I have been using reclaimed water for years; Would not drink it but the plants are fine with it. It is 35 ppm...
I always ended up with a high ph, I left for a week once and had some Bubblers running. The pH was so high that the plant near the contaminant turned pink.I restored the pH and green seeped back into her leaves.. This is no shit.
 

Kushash

Well-Known Member
Enough about blumats how bout some premature bud porn....
These BBHB x CMH are starting to turn purple in week 7; the smell has been described as a dead skunk smothered in blueberry sauce...

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You can see how monster cropping really stacks up the nodes to make for some bigass bud. Hoping these will finish in 3 more weeks as the next set of plants have already been squeezed in the back of the bloom room.
I'm building a new batch of soil and listing what I have added and what I still want to add.
I have a good feeling about the next mix.
I was using small amounts of lime when I re amended a soil and it caught up with me this grow. Unusual leaf discoloration. Light green patches on some fan leaves and lower fan leaves that appeared heat stressed with lifted corners that developed long after they were away from the lights. A clone I'm growing developed upper fan leave necrotic spots appearing to be a calcium deficiency.
I'm never 100% sure when it comes to diagnosing plants but I'm quite sure the lack of lime used when re amending caused a low soil PH. Adding 1 1/2 TBL of dolomite lime per gallon of soil about 6 weeks ago seems to have corrected the problem.

The 1st two pics show what I think is a calcium deficiency, the clones got hit the hardest, the seedlings only developed a random spot on a few leaves. I flipped to 12/12 on 1-1-20.
Happy Growing! :weed:

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Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
I always ended up with a high ph, I left for a week once and had some Bubblers running. The pH was so high that the plant near the contaminant turned pink.I restored the pH and green seeped back into her leaves.. This is no shit.
Dehumidifier water contains bacteria; bubbling it would increase their numbers. After a week I bet it was like a pink slime & the ph alkaline AF. I do clean out the sump every few months with bleach and let it dry out completely but I've not had an issue with my plants using dehuey water.
 
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