Designing my new gardens

Discussion in 'Grow Room Design & Setup' started by calliandra, Mar 16, 2017.


    calliandra Well-Known Member

    I am battling a constant 20% air humidity. No worry is further from my mind than getting mold. ;)
    mattyblade1 likes this.

    calliandra Well-Known Member

    heyhey Stick! yeah it's quite hopeless lol
    ah yeah earplugs, I hate em! lol
    But if it does get too loud in the interim stage ... :bigjoint:
    TheStickMan likes this.

    mattyblade1 Well-Known Member

    Just go for it girl. You need to be growing again. What strain types are you doing?

    calliandra Well-Known Member

    will do ;)
    The first round is going to be autos - a Fastbuds Pineapple Express and a Mephisto Sour Stomper, because I've grown em before they should be good for finetuning the room. And then I want to expand my horizon into the mysterious and wonderful world of regulars!
    Cheers! :bigjoint:

    greasemonkeymann Well-Known Member

    wow, I never knew you were only growing autos
    you'll like the difference, and I've yet to smoke an auto plant that even cracked my top 100 for anything, the ruderalis just sorta "muddies" up the genetics it seems
    regulars are superior in every aspect for sure

    calliandra Well-Known Member

    Nah not exclusively autos, I've grown a feminized strain too, the sensi nl#5xhaze, but still agree I am in for a pretty surprise when I get round to the regulars!! IF EVER ANYTHING lol :bigjoint:
    TheStickMan likes this.

    coreywebster Well-Known Member

    I would still seal any boards you use on the plant side. A thinned PVA solution or some water based white paint ( if the plants are not in there already)
    calliandra likes this.

    calliandra Well-Known Member

    the thing is, I've been thinking aall along the lines of getting a wall that can absorb and hold humidity at a good level (like clay apparently does) - so sealing, or any antimicrobial stuff, doesn't match up with that at all.
    Actually, I did like that my closet walls were wipeable (it was white acrylic paint, so sealant in function) and the back wall definitely needs a coating of that.
    MAybe I should just have an extra fabric pot in there at all times with something that exudes alot of humidity growing in it and let the walls just be walls? :shock:
    Shocking thought.
    coreywebster likes this.

    coreywebster Well-Known Member

    haha, as long as you know the plasterboard/drywall will absorb the moisture and not let it back out. Its not called drywall for nothing :lol:
    calliandra likes this.

    calliandra Well-Known Member

    yeah thanks for the reminder, so I don't start thinking I can shortcut all that by just not sealing the drywall (could happen to me these days :rolleyes: haha)
    coreywebster likes this.
    Big smo

    Big smo Well-Known Member

    Zinsser has a great new EPA certified mold killing and preventative primer. Adding this over moisture resistant drywall and M1 paint additive to the top coats is flawless.
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    calliandra Well-Known Member

    Surely this will come as a shock: the room, which has turned out to be more of a tall closet, IS BUILT! :D

    AND the plants have moved in - the celebrations may begin! (And I know the Brits will do us the honour today, even unwittingly haha!)

    What can I say!
    There was summer! And I was able to get growing in the kitchen cabinet, so the rush only emerged as temps tumbled and the designated companion tomato was starting to suffer from the night frosts.
    And there was the realization that there's no point getting all finnicky about wall insulation if I was going to cut a bunch of holes in them anyway for ventilation :bigjoint:

    So the project was immensely simplified, the green glue + drywall got applied on the other side of the back wall, to insulate my son's room from mine better, and the "room" became a "closet" by virtue of the dimensions (inside final floor space: 75 x 150 cm) and the material - all easy wood.

    The frame

    On the right bottom you can see the height of the air intake defined by the squared timber, in case I decide not to use the house intake (entry visible upper left corner of room), or want to supplement, whatever!

    Supplementary air intake outside:
    2017-10-29_ventilation (2).jpg
    And when inactive (the lid also got 2 fasteners after this to keep it in place)
    2017-10-29_ventilation (1).jpg
    As for the internals!
    The house air intake got an insulating box built afront of it, from which the ducting I already had is hung to the floor when in use, as you can see here:
    2017-10-29_ventilation (6).jpg
    On the right, the air outtake box (which I already know is going to be doubled in length, I can get way more soundproofing of the air noise that way), with a genius double-outlet design.
    The larger one is to attach the intake ducting to, so house intake gets channeled through the closet without affecting it. This will be absolutely necessary in summer!
    But it won't be a problem, since all I need to do is plug the ducting into the outlet and pronto. :D
    And the other is where the filtered air from the closet goes through ;)

    Everything attached - I'm very much in love with the placement of my posh socket strip at 2m height haha
    And the new speed controller for the S&P silent 160 fan I now have running is very slick too!
    2017-11-05_ (7).jpg
    The ceiling setup - all well out of the way, and giving the closet some airy headspace, which surely will give me a whole new climate to work with (whether that's good or bad, shall be seen haha)
    2017-11-05_ (6).jpg
    Note the adjustable light positioning - the wood bar the lights are hung from are sat on a wood strip, and the lights are attached via movable loops. So I can alter light positions depending on what's growing both horizontally and vertically.

    The vent is hung from bike tires (the inner hoses? whatever you guys call them lol - also used in the light hangings there, in that case for its anti-slip characteristics) - which is the one thing that really stops vibrational noise transmission, and I can only reccommend!

    Oh and yes, that's a 200W 2700°K CFL there, gotta use what I have for now and it was faster than getting out the HPS + transformer. But the light is just sooo inferior, even for the tomato plant, which has now come inside, with a bit of frost damage, but I figure she'll recover quickly

    2017-11-05_closet (1).JPG

    And the midgets from the cabinet, with only 100W of - visibly more effective - COB lighting for now, expandable to 200W if I feel it's worth it ;)

    2017-11-05_closet (1a).JPG

    Why did I need such a tall closet again? LMAO

    But I'm actually relieved to have them in there now, I kept noticing the soil getting rather warm in the cabinet, especially the Northern Lights #5 x Haze (the citron yellow one haha), in only 4L soil, which may be part of the reason for her being so out of whack.:rolleyes:
    So even if they stay that small, I think the altered environment will be of great benefit anyway.

    And by the time they're done, my old soil will be nicely recycled and ready to get growing real bushes again!
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2017

    TheStickMan Well-Known Member

    Congratulations! And yes there are plenty of fireworks going off in your honour! lol
    Can’t wait to see it full!
    calliandra and DonBrennon like this.

    DonBrennon Well-Known Member

    Great build!!!!! if you're ever stuck for work, I could get you a start over here building partition walls, you'd give the Pole's and Ukrainians a run for there money, Lmfao grow trees in, obviously:weed:

    DonBrennon Well-Known Member

    ..............just a thought, but a 'large' volume of soil within the room would raise the humidity, allow extra root space(bigger roots, bigger fruits) and 'use' up some of that extra head room you feel you've got.

    coreywebster Well-Known Member

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    calliandra Well-Known Member

    Thanks guys! :D
    After the first night of lights-on in there, I was happy to note the soil in those small pots isn't getting warm anymore.
    Humidity is stubbornly at 30%, though when I open the closet it feels more tropical in there than outside.

    Indeed, @DonBrennon! I already had gotten myself some 56L fabric pots for this space lol. As soon as the neem meal I ordered arrives, I'll be recycling the soil from my last "big bush"-grow and filling the first of them with it - the most recent plan was to flower the NL5xHaze in that, but she has yet to show she's not only willing but also able haha

    Cheers! :bigjoint:
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    calliandra Well-Known Member

    An update on the closet:
    It became clear pretty soon that using the house's air intake in the closet was a bad idea, so it got hooked up to the outtake box and the intake holes used instead.Also, while the plants were still little - even after adding the 56L pot - I ended up getting myself a humidifier until the leaf mass was big enough to make it redundant. And I am experiencing an improvement in overall humidity in my flat, so that thought actually panned out ;)

    However, now I am confronted with a new issue. As envisioned, I added a partitioning "curtain" on January 1st to isolate the NLH from the autos I'd got growing in there too and send her into flower.

    The curtain just consists of 2 black-white foils back to back hung up to the height of the board the lights are hung from.
    With a piece of aluminum ducting stuck through it in the back bottom, to allow for airflow when the curtain is closed.
    2018-01-24 (4).JPG
    Duct taped to the back wall and open to the front so I can pull it back partially when lights are on on both sides - i.e. when it's hottest and airflow the most needed - also to add more "good" light from that side (the DLI for the autos is slightly too high anyway:
    2018-01-24 (1).JPG

    Part of the problem is that I'm juggling lights here - the auto side is getting 150W of Cree COB, while the NLH is having to make do with one 50W Cob added to 150W of HPS (which in itself is a crappy combo I'd strongly advise against lol).
    And I'm starting to suspect that another part of the problem is that the partitioning does leak light from between the ducting above it that I need to leave open for air flow.

    The foil I have on the other side to stop light is ineffective
    2018-01-24 (2).JPG
    I fixed it to be a bit better, but still...
    The degree of light leak sort of look like this
    2018-01-24 (3).JPG

    At the time I shrugged that off, thinking of how the plants in my garden - let alone my deck, which is right under one! - don't ever get real darkness either, due to the city street lights all over the place. Plus, so I thought, Sensi's NLH is such an old stable strain she wouldn't hermie out on me.

    Well she's not hermie-ing. But after 24 days of 12/12 she isn't flowering either :shock:
    So I'm starting to get pensive, which is always a bad thing haha and humbly come before you guys with experience handling big photoperiods in search of wisdom on how I can proceed.
    @DonBrennon, @TheStickMan , @ShLUbY , @Richard Drysift , @ttystikk !!!
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    calliandra Well-Known Member

    Some quick facts on the plant: it's the citron yellow one from my November pix.:bigjoint:
    I was thinking of vegging her through the auto grow, but she started showing signs of wanting to go into flower, and honestly I didn't know how I would manage a 3 month old, burgeoning cannabis plant in a tight space for another 3 months (for which the pot then also would have been too small) before sending her into flower for another 3. On a floor space of 75x75cm.

    So into flower she got sent on January 1st.
    I had quite a blank moment there - forgetting how the NLH stretches, forgetting all I have learned to prevent that (slowly reducing times, using the MH bulb instead of HPS, a quick topping before flip...).
    That has aggravated the situation considerably.

    Here she was a week into flower lighting, Jan 6, after a bit of defoliation

    2018-01-06_day89-f6 (5)-defol.JPG

    Here she was on January 14

    2018-01-14_day97-fd14 (1).JPG

    And she just went on and on, 6 of her branches reaching up so far they were literally over my head lol.
    That's when I finally got moving, way too late, and supercropped those branches down. But no flowers in sight, except a bit of fuzz on bottom branches that get hit by COB light from the autos side of the closet.

    January 19, seeing zero light penetration to the lower parts of the plant, I did some horrific defoliation


    2018-01-19 (2).JPG

    (the supercropped branches had grown about 20cm above that nice canopy line there)

    2018-01-19 (4).JPG

    And the sum of visible flowering on the whole plant: 2018-01-19 (1b).JPG
    - apart from those nodal hairs, which are popping up everywhere (so at least she's a straight woman? lol)

    Granted, the defoliation set her back for a few days, growing out more leaves and repairing the supercrop bends. Two days ago:
    2018-01-22 (1).JPG

    And here's that bud again this morning, 24 days into "flowering" 2018-01-24 (9).JPG
    Still the sum of her blooming.

    What can I do?!?!
    Do I lower light amounts for the Cosmic Queens (according to my DLI calc, they would be fine with just 14 or so hours of light), thus also reducing the leakage time to only2 hours, which I could split in half, making a sort of sunrise sunset effect for the NLH in her leaked side of the closet?
    edit: I was just checking out my DLI calc's table again and saw that I could actually reduce light times on the autos to 12 hours and still have a DLI of almost 30 (which is what is considered necessary for tomatoes in commercial greenhouse culture). Hm.. I wonder if 12/12 isn't so bad for autos after all when they still get the total DLI in that time...!

    Or should I give up in light (lol) of the situation, cut off half the height at least, put her back into veg so she can share the lights, and retrain her?... but surely run into problems later due to the soil mass being too small for a 9 month grow?!

    Or am I just driving myself crazy and photoperiods who had a really rough childhood and thus were allowed to veg for 3 months (84 days exactly actually) just take longer to readjust to flowering?!
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2018
    DonBrennon likes this.

    DonBrennon Well-Known Member

    I feel like the slow flowering is 'probably' a combination of the light leak and not enough light during 'lights on'. I used to have a 250w HPS lamp and when you compared it to a 4 or 6, there was a VAST difference. I'd imagine that the single COB is putting out more PAR at 50W than the HPS is at 150W, the smaller HID lamps are really inefficient.

    I've got a couple of spare COBs you could have if ya can get hold of a cheap driver or two to run em' and some heatsinks. They're Citi V6 1212's 3500k 90 CRI, yours if ya want em' cos I'm all built out for the foreseeable.

    The other obvious alternative is to do as you've already mentioned, scrap the curtain and put everything on 12-12:eyesmoke:

    Good luck whichever way you go, cos she looks healthy, happy and very pretty...........although a little leggy, lmfao :bigjoint:
    calliandra likes this.

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