Cutter Electronics: Complete DIY COB kits

Discussion in 'LED and other Lighting' started by Growmau5, Mar 12, 2016.


    Growmau5 Well-Known Member

    Hello :) I'm growmau5. I contacted Mark over at a few weeks ago to ask if he could package together some high quality components and offer us a 1-click solution to ordering the parts necessary to assembly the single most popular configuration for most growers here: Four of Cree's flagship 3590s @ 1400ma.

    As a paid supporter and sponsor of RIU, Mark was happy to help us out. He mentioned that he had been thinking about doing this for some time and that he would fast track the only missing component from his site: the Heatsinks.

    A lot of us have been using extruded bar heatsinks with great success for sometime now. And I am sure many of you will continue to enjoy the process of measuring, marking, drilling and tapping these type of heatsinks for your custom COB setup.

    hsusa 5.886 PROFILE.png
    In my estimation, the heatsink machining and preparation process is the most intimidating part of a DIY COB build for most beginners, accounting for 60-70% of the time it takes to complete a build. To streamline and make this process easier for all of us, the guys at Cutter really went out above and beyond to source a Passive Anodized Pin heatsink for us :with a thermal resistance of 1.07 C/w. The increased heat emissivity of this design allows for smaller, lighter, more efficient thermal management at a comparable price.

    OH, and did I mention they come pre-drilled and tapped for popular COB models including the Cree CXB3590!

    If you are interested in learning more about this kit, follow this link directly to the kit page:

    Here is what is included:
    4 pcs Cree CXB3590, top bins only
    4 pcs Ideal 50-2303CR CXB Holder
    4 pcs Ideal 50-2300AN Adapter for the Ledil ANGELINA
    4 pcs Ledil Angelina 90 Degree reflector
    4 pcs Graphite Thermal pad(TIM) 1 side adhesive for simple assembly on the COB

    1 pc LGSU-1400D, Dimmable driver allows the COBS to be run at just under 50 watts, the sweet spot of wall plate efficiency

    1 pc 0-10V dimmer compatiable with the LGSU Driver

    4 Passive Pin fin Coolers suitable for the 50 watt drive( based on eff% calculations), predrilled and tapped for the Ideal Holder and adapter( you will only need a screw driver not a drill press)

    16 pcs M3 6mm screws for the Holders

    16 pcs M3.5 12mm Screws for mounting to side rails

    The kit is called the MAU5 : IV so that it is easy to find & so that newer hobbiests know they are ordering the same components I showcase on my YouTube Channel. I will also be offering installation support and instructional videos on wiring, assembly, & configurations.

    Additionally, these heatsinks and Cutter Kits will be the foundation of a new series of videos that I am producing called: the
    Community OpenSource DIY LED grow light

    the goals of the series are :
    -to cooperatively design and build a completely modular, adjustable, infinitely configurable system with standard components .
    -affordability, global accessibility, high performance
    -applicable to anyone from the closet grower to the warehouse grower.
    -ease of assembly and use.
    To complete the project I will be creating all of my files in a collaborative affordable software called: Autodesk Fusion 360 (free 30 day trial, $40/mo license). Publishing will go directly to my profile over at GRAB CAD, a free website were anyone can download files and send them to a local shop for fabrication.

    I will also be assisting our community by reaching out to fabricators that will cut out parts and ship anywhere in the world. Places like Big Blue Saw can take one of these files , produce the part and ship to your doorstep for less than you might think. (more on that later).

    In the meantime, I will be designing and fabricating prototypes that will hold the heatsink, allow for modularity, and allow flexibility for mounting other components like reds and UVs.

    One note to USA buyers, the bold typeface prices on are in Australian dollars, US dollar conversions are listed below that.
    The RIU discount code: CUTANDROLL will work for this kit!!!
    Pre-orders are going on now (mid-march) for April 2016 availability.

    all plates led.JPG
    all plates led 2.JPG
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2016

    Growmau5 Well-Known Member

    Additional Support files from manufacturers websites. These items are included in the kits described above.
    Cutter Pin Heatsink CAD.png
    CXB3590 Bin overview.png

    Attached Files:


    coolj Well-Known Member

    those pin heatsinks are cool, I have some on order

    BOBBY_G Well-Known Member

    fuckin A dude, stop killing it so hard its embarrassing everyone else

    BOBBY_G Well-Known Member


    Growmau5 Well-Known Member

    Wow, what a beautiful, inspirational build! Would we know about pin heatsinks if it weren't for the 35 day old build thread u linked? I will forego the sarcastic snarky response and just say yes, many of us have been aware of pin heatsinks for some time now. Sourcing one large enough to handle 3590 @ 50w (10mm x 111mm base with 80mm high pins) was the problem

    BOBBY_G Well-Known Member

    not snarky brah, realize your a lot farther ahead of us. looking forward to the open source designs

    q for you:

    is there a way to estimate Tc at a given wattage for those to get a feel for current droop
    ttystikk, Growmau5 and coolj like this.

    flat9 Active Member

    This is a great idea. Thanks for doing this for people... Really awesome work.

    Also, do you think the reflectors are necessary? In my experience LEDs often focus light on too small a footprint rather than too large of one (especially when comparing to HPS with a good reflector). The 115 degree beam angle seems to be an advantage not a detriment to the COBs.
    calliandra and Growmau5 like this.

    Rahz Well-Known Member Rollitup Advertiser

    The do redirect a good bit of the side light and produce better readings over a meter. Logically a reflective grow enclosure will serve the same purpose, but if the plants don't take up the whole space, or the grow area is open, reflectors can increase the amount of light reaching the canopy. There's also the argument that reflectors are easier to clean than walls.

    FranJan Well-Known Member

    :roll: Speak for yourself.

    BOBBY_G Well-Known Member

    so heady....
    Bachomp likes this.

    Airwalker16 Well-Known Member

    What is that sq piece of metal with what looks like fan guards on it? Your last pic on this first post, bottom right corner of photo.

    flat9 Active Member

    Thanks for your input. My thought is the goal should be to have a uniform PPFD reading over a footprint (most common is 4 x 4) at a reasonable height (say, e.g., 24 inches). Has anyone done such a test? You should be able to come up with some estimates of the lux given COB placement and Cree's datasheets. Then converting to PPFD will take some guesswork as to the multiplier to use, but uniformity is the most important thing. I feel about 800-1000 PPFD would be right in the sweet spot regarding efficiency and yield...

    flat9 Active Member

    More on this point. If you take a look at the par tests from Growershouse's blog almost every single LED fixture (cob or otherwise) suffers from covering a 2 x 2 far too well (the PPFD readings often go beyond what plants will even use) and then it falls off a cliff for the other 12 square feet outside of the center. I think this is probably why initially people complained so much about LEDs. HPS in a proper reflector did a better job in distributing the light out over a grid. The "reflectors" that attach to the cob, as well as the lenses, seem to focus light again to a smaller region than what the cob itself naturally emanates (eg, 90 degree reflectors whereas the cob itself has a 115 degree distribution pattern). How do you know the reflector isn't just causing the footprint problems that LEDs commonly suffer from in the first place? Any insight you may provide is appreciated.
    OneHitDone likes this.

    flat9 Active Member

    Oh, and this may be a very stupid question, but where does one source the light rail to which one attaches these DIY cob kits?

    flat9 Active Member

    Here is what I'm talking about. Take the AT600, a popular LED fixture. Here's the PAR footprint at various heights (attached).

    In my opinion the goal should be to hit about 800 PPFD at every measurement point. Cannabis won't even use anything much beyond 1000-1500 based upon the studies I read. Very very few fixtures do this or even get close, but Sun Systems AC/DE has a nice footprint with your standard 2100 umol/sec HPS DE bulb.

    Attached Files:

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    flat9 Active Member

    I think to solve the uniform PPFD problem requires very smart thinking regarding cob placement and work with a light meter. Forgive me if this has been addressed already on thesw forums. Just trying to make sure we get the best bang for our buck...

    jewbag Well-Known Member

    that's why i'm just building lights with emitters that uniformly fill out the entire grow space (1 cob per square foot). I know I have a pretty damn good combination of ppfd (1000 plus or minus 50 depending on optics) and uniformity. this tries to reasonably maximize grams/sq ft but does not maximize $/parW. i'm not the first to do it obviously, @captainmorgan and @Growmau5 among others I can't name have done it but with closer to 800 ppfd, with this they get a better $/parW ratio and maximize grams/watt.
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2016

    flat9 Active Member

    Cheers jewbag I gotta check out your setup....

    p4id Well-Known Member

    Shaggn, sforza and flat9 like this.

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