Cloning with Subcool ( Redundant Explanation with Pictures)

Discussion in 'Subcool's Old School Organics' started by subcool, Feb 12, 2008.

  1.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member

    clowns4.jpg clowns5.jpg clowns.jpg clowns2.jpg clowns3.jpg clowns6.jpg Cloning with Subcool ( Redundant Explanation with Pictures)

    Jill and I have both done cloning threads but I wanted to do an extended one with pictures of every aspect so you guys not as skilled may gain some knowledge from the ridiculously low tech way I take clones. We get full roots in 5-10 days according to strain some are faster and some are slower.

    I have used much more complicated methods but for my simple soil garden this works well for me. I started using Rapid Rooters about a year ago and IMO there is no better method, prior to this I used clear small cups with soil and perlite.


    Now before we get into the work lets do some reviewing:
    I run three area a small vegetive area that uses a 400 and a cfl.
    I have a combo Veg/bud area with a 1k MH
    We run a 2000 watt 11x6 bud room

    The veg room grows up while the bud room makes meds.

    As the main bud room gets close to finishing its time to take clones from the vegging plants prior to flipping there light cycle to 12/12
    So as you can see in the pictures the bud room is done with plants in there final stages of maturation. Shown are Vortex and Tinybomb. A glance into the main veg area shows large plants close to 18” already topped pre trained and ready for 12/12 but before we do this I have to take cuttings. We do not keep moms! Yes that’s right I have kept al my moms alive for over 6 years without ever keeping a permanent momma plant.
    You think cloning is important now? You bet on it it’s the key to mastering the art of Fine cannabis production.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 18, 2019
    Hydrotech364 and Lowphat like this.
  2.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member

    A knowledge of the internal structure of the stem is helpful in understanding the origin of adventitious roots.

    The development of adventitious roots can be broken down into three stages: (1) the initiation of meristematic cells located just outside and between the vascular bundles (the root initials), (2) the differentiation of these meristematic cells into root primordia, and (3) the emergence and growth of new roots by rupturing old stem tissue and establishing vascular connections with the shoot.

    As the root initials divide, the groups of cells take on the appearance of a small root tip. A vascular system forms with the adjacent vascular bundles and the root continues to grow outward through the cortex until the tip emerges from the epidermis of the stem. Initiation of root growth usually begins within a week and young roots appear within four weeks. Often an irregular mass of white cells, termed callus tissue, will form on the surface of the stem adjacent to the areas of root initiation. This tissue has no influence on root formation. However, it is a form of regenerative tissue and is a sign that conditions are favorable for root initiation.

    The physiological basis for root initiation is well understood and allows many advantageous modifications of rooting systems. Natural plant growth substances such as auxins, cytokinins, and gibberellins are certainly responsible for the control of root initiation and the rate of root formation. Auxins are considered the most influential. Auxins and other growth substances are involved in the control of virtually all plant processes: stem growth, root formation, lateral bud inhibition, floral maturation, fruit development, and determination of sex. Great care is exercised in application of artificial growth substances so that detrimental conflicting reactions in addition to rooting do not occur. Auxins seem to affect most related plant species in the same way, but the mechanism of this action is not yet fully understood.

    Many synthetic compounds have been shown to have auxin activity and are commercially available, such as napthaleneacetic acid (NAA), indolebutyric acid (IBA), and 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4 DPA), but only indoleacetic acid has been isolated from plants. Naturally occurring auxin is formed mainly in the apical shoot men stem and young leaves. It moves downward after its formation at the growing shoot tip, but massive concentrations of auxins in rooting solutions will force travel up the vascular tissue. Knowledge of the physiology of auxins has led to practical applications in rooting cuttings. It was shown originally by Went and later by Thimann and Went that auxins promote adventitious root formation in stem cuttings. Since application of natural or synthetic auxin seems to stimulate adventitious root formation in many plants, it is assumed that auxin levels are associated with the formation of root initials. Further research by Warmke and Warmke (1950) suggested that the levels of auxin may determine whether adventitious roots or shoots are formed, with high auxin levels promoting root growth and low levels favoring shoots.

    Cytokinins are chemical compounds that stimulate cell growth. In stem cuttings, cytokinins suppress root growth and stimulate bud growth. This is the opposite of the reaction caused by auxins, suggesting that a natural balance of the two may be responsible for regulating nor mal plant growth. Skoog discusses the use of solutions of equal concentrations of auxins and cytokinins to pro mote the growth of undifferentiated callus tissues. This may provide a handy source of undifferentiated material for cellular cloning.

    Although Cannabis cuttings and layers root easily, variations in rootability exist and old stems may resist rooting. Selection of rooting material is highly important. Young, firm, vegetative shoots, 3 to 7 millimeters (1/8 to ¼ inch) in diameter, root most easily. Weak, unhealthy plants are avoided, along with large woody branches and reproductive tissues, since these are slower to root. Stems of high carbohydrate content root most easily. Firmness is a sign of high carbohydrate levels in stems but may be con fused with older woody tissue. An accurate method of determining the carbohydrate content of cuttings is the iodine starch test. The freshly cut ends of a bundle of cuttings are immersed in a weak solution of iodine in potassium iodide. Cuttings containing the highest starch content stain the darkest; the samples are rinsed and sorted accordingly. High nitrogen content cuttings seem to root more poorly than cuttings with medium to low nitrogen content. Therefore, young, rapidly-growing stems of high nitrogen and low carbohydrate content root less well than slightly older cuttings. For rooting, sections are selected that have ceased elongating and are beginning radial growth. Staminate plants have higher average levels of carbohydrates than pistillate plants, while pistillate plants exhibit higher nitrogen levels. It is unknown whether sex influences rooting, but cuttings from vegetative tissue are taken just after sex determination while stems are still young. For rooting cloning stock or parental plants, the favorable balance (low nitrogen-to-high carbohydrate) is achieved in several ways:

    1 - Reduction of the nitrogen supply will slow shoot growth and allow time for carbohydrates to accumulate. This can be accomplished by leaching (rinsing the soil with large amounts of fresh water), withholding nitrogenous fertilizer, and allowing stock plants to grow in full sun light. Crowding of roots reduces excessive vegetative growth and allows for carbohydrate accumulation.

    2 - Portions of the plant that are most likely to root are selected. Lower branches that have ceased lateral growth and begun to accumulate starch are the best. The carbohydrate-to-nitrogen ratio rises as you move away from the tip of the limb, so cuttings are not made too short.

    3 - Etiolation is the growth of stem tissue in total darkness to increase the possibility of root initiation. Starch levels drop, strengthening tissues and fibers begin to soften, cell wall thickness decreases, vascular tissue is diminished, auxin levels rise, and undifferentiated tissue begins to form. These conditions are very conducive to the initiation of root growth. If the light cycle can be con trolled, whole plants can be subjected to etiolation, but usually single limbs are selected for cloning and wrapped for several inches just above the area where the cutting will be taken. This is done two weeks prior to rooting. The etiolated end may then be unwrapped and inserted into the rooting medium. Various methods of layers and cuttings rooted below soil level rely in part on the effects of etiolation.

    4 - Girdling a stem by cutting the phloem with a knife or crushing it with a twisted wire may block the downward mobility of carbohydrates and auxin and rooting cofactors, raising the concentration of these valuable components of root initiation above the girdle.

    From Clarke on Rooting

    Ok so lets get started. I clean my scissors well and lay out all my materials.
    I wet my rapid rooters well and start by taking some lowers from each plant in veg.

    I use a cheap product to clone with( Vita Root) but any of the ones on the market work well even take root powder.

    Its very important to remove all but top leaves and if there to large I even trim these back.

    Make sure you cut the clone and a sharp angle like a spear. I do not scrape my clones stems but many people do.

    I use the pen to make a hole in the rooter and hold it open as I pull out the pen. I gently find the hole and slide the cutting down never forcing the cut.
    So now we have a labeled clone in a moist rooter this goes into the clone box at 75 degrees.
     

    Attached Files:

  3.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member

    Keep repeating these steps until all the plants on the list are checked off, if a plants small still its marked as ‘In Veg” and will be cloned later when it’s a larger plant.

    If you have any questions post them up.
     

    Attached Files:

  4.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member

    I just wanted you guys to see that this ghetto tech method actually works very well.
    Its been 7 days since I placed them in the box.

    Best temps are between 75-80
    If you don't have a thermometer then you don't know your temps.
    Do Not guess!!
     

    Attached Files:

    Murfy likes this.
  5.  
    edux10

    edux10 Well-Known Member

    Thanks! Very good info
     
  6.  
    ccodiane

    ccodiane New Member

    Do you ever take larger cuttings? For going from rooting straight to flower?
     
  7.  
    edux10

    edux10 Well-Known Member

    Yeah, what is the ideal size to cut the clones for say a 3 week or 4 week veg time? Every time I took my clones they were real small and took over 6 weeks to get to 16-18 inches tall.
     
  8.  
    CALIGROWN

    CALIGROWN **4*****:****2*******0***

    You deserve your own forum sub........very nice
     
  9.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member

    While there are many ways to grow cannabis I find that older larger bushes produce better medicine so we veg our plants for 60 days before budding. However I have been growing a long time and its not hard to take larger cuts but IMO the best route would be to allow the time for them to root properly and a week or so of veg time, in the end you will be rewarded with more yields.

    This even applys to smaller cab growing that won't requre 2 months of veg but several weeks and some training can yield some amazing results.
    These pictures are from a cabinet grow and a single plant properly trained.

    Pictures and grow by Coolhand
     

    Attached Files:

    MynamewouldbeJosh420 likes this.
  10.  
    ccodiane

    ccodiane New Member

    I tend to agree. Just tried the big cuts, and took longer to establish. I got a bubba gum that is a real mind bender. You do great work.:mrgreen:
     
  11.  
    cheese'head

    cheese'head Active Member

    i was wondering how deep do you make the hole in the plugs or do you go all the way through? and i see that your using a pen to make the hole but isnt it a bit wide dont you want it to fit snug?
    im ready do do my first clones and need all the info i can get cheers!!
    plus how long do i have to veg my clone from when it roots till when i can take more cutting(or best timescale cheers) or should i just wait for pre-flowers under 18/6?
     
  12.  
    sleepytown

    sleepytown Well-Known Member

    Wow, this is a ridiculously simple cloning technique. I am never more daunted by cloning than when I am in the hydro store. They have $400 cloning trays, and egregiously expensive cloning bells and whistles everywhere you look. With this method, I may be cloning on this very grow.

    S-Town
     
  13.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member

    We make sure there level with the bottom of the plug there very elastic and if I do stretch one out a rubber band fixes the prob.


    You really only need to make sure your rooted plant has 2 full sets of fans leaves left after topping or it will severely slow its growth..
     
    MynamewouldbeJosh420 likes this.
  14.  
    cheese'head

    cheese'head Active Member

    :roll:
    cheers!! the clonings all new to me but ill be doing a lot of it soon
    what about the latest stage of the grow that you can still clone at? ive seen a seen a quote earlier saying that he was just about to clone at day 35 of flowering how can this be possible with bud on it? he stated he was going to take the clones from the bottom that werent getting anylight under his scrog?
     
  15.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member

    You can't really clone once a plant is budding while it can be done it takes forever for the plant to revert to growing once it's rooted.

    Sub
     
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  16.  
    cheese'head

    cheese'head Active Member

    yeah thats what i thought i just couldnt grasp how he was cloning if it had a bud on it? maybe if you re-generated it hten cloned it wen it re-veged? would this make a weeker clone or plant?
     
  17.  
    KAOSOWNER

    KAOSOWNER Well-Known Member

    Im sorry if i missed this but what time schedule do you use for our clones?
     
  18.  
    iBLaZe4tozErO

    iBLaZe4tozErO Well-Known Member

    You actually can have a clone with bud on it. I've done that a few times it just takes slower like sub said. I would not recomend it but it is funny to see tiny plant with buds on it
     
  19.  
    cheese'head

    cheese'head Active Member

    thats nice to no . so when ive got a plant that i want to get a cutting from i can still get one? but it takes longer 2 root is this right if so cheers ill give it a try!!:hump::hump::blsmoke:
     
  20.  
    TheGardenMan

    TheGardenMan Dea, FBI, ATF MuthaFucker

    whats the best humidity? :peace:
     

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