clones not rooting in aeroponic cloner

Discussion in 'Hydroponics / Aeroponics' started by Chemtrailed, Jun 15, 2011.


    Chemtrailed Member

    I recently built a 21 site aeroponic clone machine. Its been about 5 days and nothing has happened.
    The clones look good still, are standing up nicely and the machine appears to be working like its supposed too.
    But no roots yet.
    Whats the deal? I thought these things rooted clones faster than rockwool cubes?
    The strain is double bubble kush berry- bubba kush X bubbleberry.
    I took the cuttings, trimmed the excess, cut at 45, split the stem up center 1/2", dipped in rooting powder, and placed in cloner under a small CFL.
    Should i recut them and try again or just wait?
    How long do these thing take to make roots?

    NatureaFinest Well-Known Member

    I haven't ever messed with an aero cloner bro but I'd wait a lil while. A lot of factors in it, it may just take a clone from the strain u chose a bit longer to root. If they're still standin straight up I'd say wait it out. Hopefully an experienced aero cloner will chime in for u

    BendBrewer Well-Known Member

    A buddy of mine uses one and he claims it's 12 days but after 12 days they are ready. If they're looking healthy still, have to think they are doing their thing. I go 16 days in Rapid Rooters.

    PeaceFarmer Active Member

    It takes around 10-15 days for roots to pop....just keep misting the leaves daily and keep a humidity dome over them.
    Major Blazer likes this.

    wiseguy316 Well-Known Member

    Hang in there it can take up to 2 weeks, i think they will be fine. Do you see little white bumps yet? At 10 days if you don't it might be your water. I use spring water in my aero cloner, the city tap water sucks for cloning.

    wiseguy316 Well-Known Member

    I don't mist mine or use a dome for aero and it works great, want water? grow roots bitches!
    strengthngrowth likes this.

    Chemtrailed Member

    I think i have to make a change or two.
    After reading some other posts, i figured out what i might be doing wrong.
    If i understand right, the stems should not be directly in the sprays and also not dripping.
    I had my spayers adjusted to high and was to wet. Next i will retry with the spays adjusted down.
    So i guess these cloners work on humidity in the box rather than sprayed direct.
    I will see how this works and let you know what happens.

    303 Well-Known Member

    NO. I have my sprayers spraying the bottoms of the stems I cut. Even in a nice EZCloner were talking 5-10 days before roots show. Mine take about 14-20 days before it looks like this. as you can see the roots are being sprayed all the time as they should. I don't need a dome either just ph'd water with sprayers always spraying stems. You need patience bro. They don't work on humidity inside the aero, I hope you read this in time because your about to axe your whole tray of clones. I check on mine often, the other day since they're drinking water because they're rooted and are in need I ran low on water causing the sprayers to stop spraying directly, this very same tray I posted a pic of, they all looked dead, drooped down looked like I just cost myself 2 weeks, since it was within few hours I filled back up with ph'd waterand only lost 3. What I'm saying is those sprayers must be in contact all the time with your stems if you want them to make it, or they will do what mine did, I suspect mine were without water for just a hour or two any longer who knows..? You think if you actually got roots that they don't need water sprayed onto them? They can't and won't survive on humidity. Forget about what you read about humidity domes, as I think you are confused.

    303 Well-Known Member

    Also its not always true aerocloners are faster than rockwool just easier and less maintence. EZCloners have some magic powers I've seen roots in less than a week, I made mine just like it but somethings different not sure what? In fact look the first pic close at the top there's two humidity domes with trays of clones behind the aerocloner, its my all else fails option in case something fails, sometimes I even move rooted clones that rooted quicker in the rockwool into the aerocloner to let the roots take off. I like straight out the aerocloner vs cubes because the way the roots drop, I do hydro and they go in net cups that need to sit in recirculating water, rockwool molds on me and the roots are never abundant and long enough. Also having a healthy mother and different genetics has all the factor in when they'll root. I have a durban poison in the pic I posted that I know I can expect 35 rooted clones in less than 3 weeks. Grape ape, forget it, I'm lucky to get my whole table rooted in the time I need them.
    Dr. Bigbud

    Dr. Bigbud Well-Known Member

    Make sure to check your water temperature in the aeroponic cloner, 74 is ideal but I have been able to root at 82 it just took 5 days longer. Your clone stems should be getting direct spraying from the sprayers and you do not need to mist at all, the cloner will not work oh humidity alone, you stems need to be dripping with water. Just look out for root rot, if the stems get black and mushy. To prevent root rot I use a beneficial bacteria solution that I add to the reservoir at the beginning when I clone. I never split my clones down the middle so I dunno what effect that may have on roots, but its not necessary. Just watch the tips where you cut them and watch them callus over and turn thick and white, if this is happening then you should get roots soon. Check my seed to smoke log where I use my aerocloner like yours. good luck

    Kevdogg5555 Well-Known Member

    ya bro I ONLY clone use my aero cloner and Ive never hard roots as fast as 5 days.. my success rate is 95% and it takes 10-12 days to get nice 4 inch inch roots. Be patient. Also I dont cut the stem down the middle. I scrap the very outer layer of the stem, exposing the lighter softer tissue then dip it in rooting gel. This gives me are huge mass of roots. Good luck

    Chemtrailed Member

    Thanks guys for all your info.
    303 you were right. I didnt get to read your post before i made the changes and i FUKD it all up.
    I came back a few hours after rolling the sprays down and they were dead or dying.
    Humidity alone DOES NOT work.
    Lucky for me i only lost 4. I wasnt sure how this was gonna work, so i did an experiment before committing a large number.
    They were lower cuttings off an outdoor project, so no big loss.
    Im going back to the way i had it earlier and will heed all of you guys' tips.

    panhead Well-Known Member

    I must cut 40 clones every 7 days or my tables empty up real fast,out of the 40 i cut i cherry pick the best 32 for insertion in a flood table,i use an aero cloner but i also use jiffy sponge plugs under a heat mat humidome as back up.

    When you listed your cutting technique i see you left out a very important step,after taking the cutting do you re-cut the end under water ? if not you may be in for a bumpy ride with a low success rate.

    With that said i think your expecting too much from the aero cloner,they are not faster than a good humidome set up as a whole.
    jesicalorren likes this.

    Chemtrailed Member

    panhead- no i did not cut them under water.
    Does that make a difference?
    This is the first time ive used a cloner machine, i usually buy my clones for my outdoor projects, but i am just about done setting up for indoor and will need to get this going for my sog project.
    I have cloned many times in the past though using a humidity box and spray technique.
    I never even used to do the 45 cut either and still had pretty good success.
    Do you recommend cutting the 45 under water and same with the center cut?
    Cali chronic

    Cali chronic Well-Known Member

    make sure your PH is at 5--- 5.5 max the water needs to be a bit warmer then the ambient or outside temp. Do not use too much light. Dim, you want roots not vegging.

    303 Well-Known Member

    I hate to argue with a RIU vet that I have a lot of respect for but I don't need to recut the ends under water to get roots, my ride has been all but bumpy and have 100% rates. That is completely unnecessary.. I've heard of a lot of technique but thats a first.

    303 Well-Known Member

    45 degree cut yes, under water no. How does that do anything good?

    panhead Well-Known Member

    Hmmm,i cant explain why you have never heard of that technique but i assure you it is not only a real technique it is also a foolproof technique & is also taught in the propagation portion of many botany classes.

    Ever give your girl or guy flowers & have them die in just a few days ? We all have & it's because they cant uptake water due to embolism's ,re-cut the ends underwater & the same flowers will last 2 weeks every time.

    Even if your current cloning technique is sound you can still benifit greatly from re-cutting the ends under water,the benifit s come from roots appearing faster with a greater success ratio,

    For the OP ,first try it without re-cutting the ends underwater ,then when you do another batch do em underwater,you will see the light ,IT IS flat out the best cloning technique out of them all beacuse its foolproof.

    Air embolisms are not only real they are the main reason why we see so many threads asking for help with cloning.

    303 Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the info, I will give it a try next tray I cut.

    panhead Well-Known Member

    Your asking redundant questions besause of conflicting information,i'll try to shed some light.

    How you cut the end of the stalk is damm near meaningless,your goal is to disrupt cells within the plant,the cells that must be disrupted are all within the center of the stalk,on thick stalks it will appear as a white layer dead middle of the stalk.

    Now that you understand that cell disruption is a must for a cutting to produce roots lets talk about how to cut the end of the stalk.

    When people say to cut the stalk at a 45 degree angle the reason is to give the cutting more surface area with the disrupted cells,an angled cut has more surface than a straight cut yes ?

    Surface area is also the reason for splitting the stalk,when you split you double the surface area with the disrupted cells the cutting must have to produce roots.

    Now look back at my initial post,see where i scrape the stalk to remove all green plant matter ? The reason i do this is to obtain as much surface as possible & to disrupt as many cells as possible.

    The whole goal is to disrupt as many cells as possible & to give maximum surface area,no matter what combination of cutting techniques you choose to use the only part of the stalk that will produce roots is where you disrupted cells within the center of the stalk.

    When deciding where to take a cutting remember cell disruption,larger branches have more cells that can be disrupted & the small wispy branches at the bottom of the plant contain way less surface area, which means less cell disruption.
    ShLUbY likes this.

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