Citizen COBs with suplementation ssl80

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
I agree with you. But others won't. They prefer more spread dissipation. I have the stella HBs and they're 75 deg and have a nice footprint at 18" I think.
The quality fresnels produce a very even brightness beam. I saw some on YT. I don't know how it would turn out in the real world but in theory a spotlight type beam seems to make more sense.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Look how even the light is when he tunes this spotlight in. I guess kind of the same when he pulled the lens out, but not adjustable. Who will be the first to introduce adjustable beam grow lights? Granted you'd need a lot of vertical space, but good for warehouse grows.

 
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BM9AGS

Well-Known Member
Look how even the light is when he tunes this spotlight in. I guess kind of the same when he pulled the lens out, but not adjustable.

Looks very sharp! We'd need to see a ppfd reading to test the center of that beam. I know at 18" my Stella HBs make 400ppfd on edged of 12" and 900 ppfd center. Which when they're overlapping it works great.....granted I've never metered them myself but the calculated overlap anyway
 

rxr2

Active Member
look at the size :) i use one project sun simulator 1.2m size Fresnel lens. It give me huge very uniformity beam almost parallel light..

But size.. we need some compact lens..
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
look at the size :) i use one project sun simulator 1.2m size Fresnel lens. It give me huge very uniformity beam almost parallel light..

But size.. we need some compact lens..
What if you took a large rectangular fresnel and clipped it to an HPS reflector? You'd get nice straight down rays like with an LED panel. I'm surprised nobody tried that yet. It would eliminate drop-off significantly because it would no longer be a point source once it hit the lens.
 

speedyganga

Well-Known Member
Almost all components made for everything is made on China. We all know that. The fixture is assembled w/ personal quality control in the U.S. & 5 yr warrantied here. Big difference!
You know the maker for what??? You sure bout that now?
It's allot more to manufacture then these other cob lights out by quite a bit.
Almost all components made for everything is made on China. We all know that. The fixture is assembled w/ personal quality control in the U.S. & 5 yr warrantied here. Big difference!
You know the maker for what??? You sure bout that now?
It's allot more to manufacture then these other cob lights out by quite a bit.
I am sure about what I said, maybe it changed 3 month ago though...
but hey, again, you are free to believe whatever you want, even if they make high margin, your light works ?!:hump:
And btw, a member of my family was working in a North-African textil warehouse for Z...RA a long time ago, his job was to put "made in France" on the clothes, the item will then ship to France, have a small touch and that is it, everything was legal.:lol:
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
Everything's made in China. I do know it was designed & patented by the owner. They are designed, tested, shipped, serviced & the top-bin chips are installed here in the U.S.
I checked on this.
And yes, I was wrong to say it was fully assembled here. I did not know.
I don't think their margin is that high offering allot for the money. I hear from DIY guys that adding the monos is costly. Never mind the uv t-8 on a separate plug. I own one & compared it to another light at a similiar cost. The quality blows away the other light by far & so does the performance.
It's no big deal to me either way. I just didn't want false info going around again. There's allot of haters here. As I posted false info out of my own ignorance. :oops: My bad. Just found out the facts today & was going to respond here so I'm kindve glad you did first.
But you won't see an Amare for re-sale by any distributer. Here or any other country. Not a legit/legal one anyways.
But I'm just a grower happy with my product. I'm sure all kinds of shit goes down.
I owned plenty of things that fell out the back of trucks in the 90's! Lol!
 
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tags420

Well-Known Member
Tom(@rxr2 ), What is going on here....
If the diodes under 1 lens :hump:
I am curious, does the single lens solve this issue?
View attachment 3738307
Since allegedly it was answered and explained wrongly and also was wrong to stand up for a contributing member that did answer it correctly(unless you disagree), freely, and politely to begin with.

Just here for facts and respecting knowledgeable contributing members...
What is your take on it?

I'm sure @MrTwist1 would love to know your thoughts on it too
 

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
so the bender&wirth + 058 is a wash then? or just in the photon housing? are your production units glass lenses?
 

rxr2

Active Member
CLU058 LES is too big and did not leave any clearence
For CLU058 lens should be at last 80mm size. If it smaller you will lost lots of light. Even my 78mm lens not working perfect on 38mm cobs... Its compromise Size/weigh vs efficient/economy.

I working on new supplementation MCPCB base on CLU048 when i finish ill make test and compere to clu058 with the same 120 and 90 deg my lens.

PS. Very big THX for restore this tread.
 

Johnnycannaseed1

Well-Known Member
Khatod offers very even coverage. One of the highest quality and reasonably priced silicone optics.
Unfortunately it cannot work with anything with LES over 30mm
Glass lens is great for large LES or cob with monos.

I tested some optics here
https://www.rollitup.org/t/lens-and-reflector-optics-for-cob.893660
I like the standard 120 degree glass lens as it had more even spread compared to Kb80 lens.
I am sure you have better ways of testing. Let me know if I can help with any par charts/testing
Cheers for that much appreciated:wink:

@ Tom thanks for the info regarding your lenses and great to see your thread has resurfaced...well done Mods :clap:
 
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Millsie

Well-Known Member
PS. Very big THX for restore this tread.

Hey rx, I was curious what lenses you would use with a CLU058-1825 @ 1050a - 2.1a+

I'm mainly looking for a 120 lens that will help defuse / focus light away from the center :)

As most research that I have done on the 1825 shows the center would be receiving crazy levels of light/intensity at high ma's :D
 

RhoBotic

Member
Friends do not be angry for someone is not able to keep. I have come here to share knowledge, and because we share one passion. For me this light. This makes it with my knowledge educated at the university becomes useful.

I'm not going to settle for the show a few products or the presentation of my ability.


I currently works for the introduction of supplementation Blast 320 based on one power supply

will it work with only one power supply for 2pcs COB and 40 pcs ssl 80 leds with current mirror circuit like this :View attachment 3740406
If it's going to be run 18/6 or even 12/12 I'd put fuses on both lines at the very least, maybe even some extra over current protection if the fuses aren't fast enough. If it does work, even under extensive testing, I personally wouldn't trust that it will every time, but I'm a bit of a scardy cat! You know, one dodgy transistor in a batch could look like it's working until you blow one of your ssl's and set fire to some dust when they go poof!!!
 
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Hybridway

Well-Known Member
so i just skimmed through the thread,are you going to be testing one of @rxr2 lights soon ?
Not sure! But I do enjoy testing new quality lights. Gonna smash it w/ the SunCloak, my Amare & Hydroponics Hut this time!
Be sure to stop by n see the contraption I've put together!
Really want to replace the burple cobs in the HH. Maybe some Citizens I hear you guys talking about. I think they're running @ 30 watts so I'd have to find cobs that match the dimensions & current. Then pop them burple ones off n solder on some new ones. Then maybe that light will work.
Aren't the Citizens known for running on higher currents?
What's a good 60watt cob I could run @ 30?
 
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