Cinderella 99 - 4 plants in scrog

Taos

Well-Known Member
Taking it down after almost 8 weeks.
 

Attachments

Taos

Well-Known Member
I am just going to conclude with this post, and possibly one later with final metrics. This is mostly things I learned, however basic.


· With an approx 4’x4’ area, I need access to 3 sides to be able to ready most everywhere. I have maybe a 2’ reach, so to tuck and lollipop the entire area, I would need access from 3 or preferably 4 sides.

· The combination of a 44” tray inside of a 5’x5’ tent allows you to (barely) rotate the tray. You need a foot or 2 in the front as well. With a scrog net set on ¾” PVC pipes, and the pipes are resting on the inside corners of the tray, it was possible to rotate the tray for harvesting. I wish I realized that this was possible earlier, as one of back plants received no lilipopping, and not enough positioning.

· In early veg, these plants tended to make Huge leaves. They completely overshadowed the branch nodes of the plant, and without tucking I think I just would have ended up with only the tops. It bushed nicely for scrog once the leaves were tucked and the plant topped 2x.

· Keep it clean from the soil line to the net line, and everything above the net will have great bud formation.

· I really really prefer to trim wet. After the first 4 oz, I can make a bud that will look beautify dry, with close multi-tip leaves cut inside the bud.

· This C99 has a lot of leaf to trim. Trim time was about 30 grams (dried weight) / hour? (This is a bit more then 150 grams wet.)

· The plants seemed to do OK at 60,000-66,000 lux. I normally aim for 50,000-55,000 lux.

· The lighting setup was 3 rows of 4 cobs. Front row (always open tent) was 250 watts. Middle was 200 watts. Back was 250 watts for a total of 700 watts. (All 3.5k CREE). In a 48”x48” area, 4 rows of 4 50 watt cobs might be best, utilizing a total of 800 watts. I grew in 13.5 ft/sq (44”x44”), compared to 16 ft/sq (48”x48”).

· I could not keep the room sealed, due to heat, when it was more than 32F outside. Nominally, the room would be approx. 67F-68F. A 475 watt ‘Envi’ heater. https://www.eheat.com/envi-high-efficiency-whole-room-plug-in-electric-panel-heater-hh1012t/ kept the room minimums in the 70F-72F range. In this room I had heat, de-humid, and an evaporative humidifier. I wasn’t equipped to cool a shut room this winter. Opening it kept the max temperatures below 80F, but at a cost of lost CO2. The room was flawless in the -5F-20F range. But just as I learned in the previous grow that you can get a dry day in the 40’s in July when drying, you can also get a toasty day or more in the dead of winter.

· OxyCloner seems to work. However, I don’t seem to get roots to drop in the cloner, but if transplanted to coco, they will drop there once showing ready in the cloner.

· The Winter grow should start Oct 15 – Nov 1, to allow 10 weeks, and not have the finish of the grow collide with getting early veg garden plants started. (soil = life)

· I have been yielding ¼ per plant since gaining experience. I was hoping to get more from the scrog, but will probably hit my average for a completed grow. (not including the 12/12 from seed grows that I like.)

· A separate veg area, and drying area would be very nice. I am thinking about multiple smaller tents in one climate controlled room.

If I do a spring grow, it will be abbreviated - either 12/12 from seed, or some auto.
 

Taos

Well-Known Member
My first scrogs ended with a bit of disappointment: One plant performed excellently; Three did not. Next run, I will wait until I am running branches from branches, which I only managed to do with plant 1. Perhaps another week or 2 in veg for the trailing 3 plants. One of the plants (#2 here) definitely produced very different bud - thinner and more greasy, and much less weight.

Anyways, it was a fun grow, with very joyful goodies to last the summer. I learned a lot, and I have a clone of #1 ;)
Capture.GIF
 

Taos

Well-Known Member
Looks good.

Bros Grimm lost one of the parents so thiers is a remake
I've grown from several companies including female seeds and blimburn. All seemed like they were from the same cuts. Super fruity pineapple smelling ones.

Female seeds version is good to go.
It sounds like "Female Seeds" is the best source to go to for C99 seeds. I like this strain and will run my #1 clone again, and try their seeds on a future run.

I wonder if there is a list of the consensus 'best breeder/seed source' for several of the more classic strains such as blueberry, white widow, C99 etc...
 

Taos

Well-Known Member
I use these cheap Chinese timers a lot. I can never remember how they work, so will document setting a regular timer, and setting a more complex setting.


Set the time:
* Press <Switch>
* Press, and hold for 3 seconds <Confirm>
* <Hour> # Set the hour. (Note 24 hour only with these timers.)
* <Minute> # Set the minutes.
* <Confirm>

Daily On/Off timer.
* <Switch>
* <Timed>
* <Hour> # On time.
* <Minute> # On time
* <Timed>
* <Hour> # Off time
* <Minute> # Off time
* <Confirm>

Turn CO2 on for one minute each hour, during the light cycle, between 0500 and 1600.
0) Optional :<Reset>
1) Set the time (from above)
2) Set the interval circulation:
* <Switch>
* <timing cycle> # Hold for 3 seconds
* <Hour> # Sets the MINUTES On - set to 1.
* <Timing Cycle>
* <Hour> # Sets the MINUTES Off - set to 59
* <Confirm>
3) Set the timer. (Follow instructions above - set On at 0500, and off at 1700
4) Combine the two functions:
* <Timing Cycle> # HOLD for 3 seconds, and note the 'bell' icon is now flashing.

NOTE: When does the interval turn on? As soon as you program it. eg: If I program it at 38 minutes past the hour, it will turn on for 1 minute during lights on at 0538, 0638, 0738, etc... Funky, but usable if you know how it is going to work.

This note is basically a reference for myself for future work. I really like a $13 interval timer. It is just a pain to work with from memory.

I am happy I documented this, as I needed it at a friends house today!
 
Top