Masterofgenetics
New Member
lol... its cool I was real f*cked up and paranoid. Sorry I thought I could handle the hash.. that would be crazy if it did burn down... I could see it on the news they would probably say it was a meth lab....
Breeding Journal
- Thread starter Masterofgenetics
- Start date
Masterofgenetics
New Member
alright so my room temps were dropping into the high 40"s not freaking out. But they sit on a metal table.. and the table was a lot colder then the air... I can deal with the air being in the 50's, but the roots need to be warmer then that. Since I am pulling in fresh air from outside I can't change that unless I block the air flow, not going to happen.
So I stuck a small 250 watt heater blowing a warm stream of air under the roots on bottom of the table.. My table is a 3.5 by 6.5 hand made
So I stuck a small 250 watt heater blowing a warm stream of air under the roots on bottom of the table.. My table is a 3.5 by 6.5 hand made
Masterofgenetics
New Member
AFF GOOOOEEEEYY
Masterofgenetics
New Member
......Trainwreck.....
A brain thumping, Sativa, soaring high. Comes on strong as a freight train, finishes in the typical ultra-heady Sativa manner! Very medicinal. People become hooked on it like a hard drug. Old school California taste. Dense rock hard nuggets. Next to no leaf .Light green with small calyxes. Thin stem, small buds. Legend has it it was started in the early 80’s by a couple of brothers in San Diego. Mexican X Columbian, with a hint of Afghani.
After 10 or 12 years, somehow a clone was let out, and the madness has started. It has thrived and been mastered in Humboldt County for 12-14 years. This is unbelievable pot. (90% Sativa / 10% Indica
Train Wreck is an old hybrid (1970's) from Humbodlt of lowland Thai, Mexican Sativa, and a very solid and potent Afghani.
Train Wreck (TW) is particularly good for the treatment of migraine, pain, and nausea.
While TW is thought to be a Sativa dominant (and looks like it) it's actually got quite a bit of Afghan in it making this an extremely potent hybrid. I'm guessing our TW is probably a 65/35 Sativa/Indica.
There are a few true TW seeds around but don't expect to find them. If you did you'd be real surprised that this 42 flower strain from clone is 9 months when grown from seed. This is because in Train Wreck the gene that controls flowering is time from germination.
You can see that Wreck is almost vine like with fine Sativa like leaves. Resin production begins almost immediately in flower and can cover the entire plant in frost.One of the striking things about Wreck is the color. It's not really green at all. Here's some of my popcorn nuggies taken from a small plant at day 42
Train Wreck is an excellent strain for SCROG. Here's some Humboldt Wreck harvested at 42 days following an indoor Odro grow.
Some caution about Train Wreck....This strain is a creeper, especially when fresh. You take one toke and it takes a good 5 minutes before you find yourself toasted. Some make the mistake of toking while they're waiting for that first toke and find themselves truly stoned. Heck, my wife smoked Wreck by mistake and got lost in the pool
Cured for 3-4 weeks, TW loses some of the "creeper" quality and becomes rock hard nuggies that are stronger than most hash.Finally, the taste is of a mentholated dead whale dipped in lemon gasoline
Comments on Trainwreck from Meduser : A brain thumping, Sativa, soaring high. Comes on strong as a freight train, finishes in the typical ultra-heady Sativa manner! Very medicinal. People become hooked on it like a hard drug. Old school California taste. Dense rock hard nuggets. Next to no leaf .Light green with small calyxes. Thin stem, small buds. Legend has it it was started in the early 80’s by a couple of brothers in San Diego. Mexican X Columbian, with a hint of Afghani. After 10 or 12 years, somehow a clone was let out, and the madness has started. It has thrived and been mastered in Humboldt County for 12-14 years. This is unbelievable pot. (90% Sativa / 10% Indica
Comments on Trainwreck from Mojojojo : TW is basically a Thai low land sativa that got into the mix up here back in the early 80’s. Out doors it’s a huge “weeper creeper” that takes up TONS of space and takes 9 months to come in. It’s original parents were brought back from Thailand by some vagabond-os wanting to reproduce Thai-stick phenotype. For how the plant looks when grown FROM SEED – or just left to grow – see Clark’s MB pg. 177 “Creeper phenotype” The main problem with the ‘elusive’ TW seeds – is they really aren’t that elusive – its just that the strain (originally – real deal) uses the pair of genes that are “length of time from germination” sensitive. These run the veg time out for almost a full 9 months. Once these genes are ‘satisfied’ then TW blooms really fast (42 days done). In fact if left longer – it tends to just “blow out” and never makes tight again.
Comments on Trainwreck from Beserker :
a.) it was NOT row e-32 it was thirty second rotation - sub type "E" = e-32
b.) that cross was "Mostly" LowLand Thai x Mexican Sativa (dirty mex brick weed) ... that some how (stuipd new-be) got into the mix ... and X with standered Indca dom strain of the late 70's early 80's era that was (and is) the staple of out door in much of the P.NW then and now.
c.) the plant NEVER really seemed to come in - did NOT purple even when it was left in (for what seemed for ever) - it DID get a light BLUSH of mauve!
d.) when we did finally cut it (in the sleating rains of a late year = not even worth going back for was the argument - short hike but like why bother for that huge creeper like THING that didn't have any bud on it last time we looked) -- well we ended up going down the hill - and found SOME AIR BUD on it - long fethery branchs. + had seeded a bottom branch PER: SOP of anything "weird' - or GREAT
e.) then once we got it up and dried the damn thing - and 'tested it' = WOW .. end of story ..
f.) e-32 (what is now called TW) became ledgen - in 82 there was NOTHING comprable.
g.) so that's that -- the seeds were pretty much stable from that X - and over the years we weeded out <pun> the Broad leaf tendencies ... --- yeild IS low = its comes in consistantly
w/o Co2 at about 80% of a LB per 1000y w/ Co2 at about 110-120% of a LB per 1000y out doors well how big are the plants (chuckle) BUT it tends to hold CLOSE to the 21.3 grams per Sq Ft vs. the 31.95 to 46.2 grams per Sq Ft in full sun of any of the broad leaf phynotypes. and color = yup its GREY NOT GREEN! because of the crystals - which are ALL OVER THE PLANT from bottom of the stem to the tippy tops! You know its wreck if: Every time you look at it you wonder if its got MITES - and when you look closer you see its JUST the grey of the KRYSTAL looking like mite webs! your arm hairs are sticky and you don't remember touching anything in the room ... it SMELLS of MINT - or menthol ...the TINY buds at the base of the stem are CRYSTALLY TOO -- just like the tops - and when they are dry they are total KRYSTAL = snow white ... and you find your self going "wow this is better looking then the tops! If your checking the SIZE of your ONE hit - not how MANY hits you can take before total couch lock ...Then - that's the wreck!
A brain thumping, Sativa, soaring high. Comes on strong as a freight train, finishes in the typical ultra-heady Sativa manner! Very medicinal. People become hooked on it like a hard drug. Old school California taste. Dense rock hard nuggets. Next to no leaf .Light green with small calyxes. Thin stem, small buds. Legend has it it was started in the early 80’s by a couple of brothers in San Diego. Mexican X Columbian, with a hint of Afghani.
After 10 or 12 years, somehow a clone was let out, and the madness has started. It has thrived and been mastered in Humboldt County for 12-14 years. This is unbelievable pot. (90% Sativa / 10% Indica
Train Wreck is an old hybrid (1970's) from Humbodlt of lowland Thai, Mexican Sativa, and a very solid and potent Afghani.
Train Wreck (TW) is particularly good for the treatment of migraine, pain, and nausea.
While TW is thought to be a Sativa dominant (and looks like it) it's actually got quite a bit of Afghan in it making this an extremely potent hybrid. I'm guessing our TW is probably a 65/35 Sativa/Indica.
There are a few true TW seeds around but don't expect to find them. If you did you'd be real surprised that this 42 flower strain from clone is 9 months when grown from seed. This is because in Train Wreck the gene that controls flowering is time from germination.
You can see that Wreck is almost vine like with fine Sativa like leaves. Resin production begins almost immediately in flower and can cover the entire plant in frost.One of the striking things about Wreck is the color. It's not really green at all. Here's some of my popcorn nuggies taken from a small plant at day 42
Train Wreck is an excellent strain for SCROG. Here's some Humboldt Wreck harvested at 42 days following an indoor Odro grow.
Some caution about Train Wreck....This strain is a creeper, especially when fresh. You take one toke and it takes a good 5 minutes before you find yourself toasted. Some make the mistake of toking while they're waiting for that first toke and find themselves truly stoned. Heck, my wife smoked Wreck by mistake and got lost in the pool
Cured for 3-4 weeks, TW loses some of the "creeper" quality and becomes rock hard nuggies that are stronger than most hash.Finally, the taste is of a mentholated dead whale dipped in lemon gasoline
Comments on Trainwreck from Meduser : A brain thumping, Sativa, soaring high. Comes on strong as a freight train, finishes in the typical ultra-heady Sativa manner! Very medicinal. People become hooked on it like a hard drug. Old school California taste. Dense rock hard nuggets. Next to no leaf .Light green with small calyxes. Thin stem, small buds. Legend has it it was started in the early 80’s by a couple of brothers in San Diego. Mexican X Columbian, with a hint of Afghani. After 10 or 12 years, somehow a clone was let out, and the madness has started. It has thrived and been mastered in Humboldt County for 12-14 years. This is unbelievable pot. (90% Sativa / 10% Indica
Comments on Trainwreck from Mojojojo : TW is basically a Thai low land sativa that got into the mix up here back in the early 80’s. Out doors it’s a huge “weeper creeper” that takes up TONS of space and takes 9 months to come in. It’s original parents were brought back from Thailand by some vagabond-os wanting to reproduce Thai-stick phenotype. For how the plant looks when grown FROM SEED – or just left to grow – see Clark’s MB pg. 177 “Creeper phenotype” The main problem with the ‘elusive’ TW seeds – is they really aren’t that elusive – its just that the strain (originally – real deal) uses the pair of genes that are “length of time from germination” sensitive. These run the veg time out for almost a full 9 months. Once these genes are ‘satisfied’ then TW blooms really fast (42 days done). In fact if left longer – it tends to just “blow out” and never makes tight again.
Comments on Trainwreck from Beserker :
a.) it was NOT row e-32 it was thirty second rotation - sub type "E" = e-32
b.) that cross was "Mostly" LowLand Thai x Mexican Sativa (dirty mex brick weed) ... that some how (stuipd new-be) got into the mix ... and X with standered Indca dom strain of the late 70's early 80's era that was (and is) the staple of out door in much of the P.NW then and now.
c.) the plant NEVER really seemed to come in - did NOT purple even when it was left in (for what seemed for ever) - it DID get a light BLUSH of mauve!
d.) when we did finally cut it (in the sleating rains of a late year = not even worth going back for was the argument - short hike but like why bother for that huge creeper like THING that didn't have any bud on it last time we looked) -- well we ended up going down the hill - and found SOME AIR BUD on it - long fethery branchs. + had seeded a bottom branch PER: SOP of anything "weird' - or GREAT
e.) then once we got it up and dried the damn thing - and 'tested it' = WOW .. end of story ..
f.) e-32 (what is now called TW) became ledgen - in 82 there was NOTHING comprable.
g.) so that's that -- the seeds were pretty much stable from that X - and over the years we weeded out <pun> the Broad leaf tendencies ... --- yeild IS low = its comes in consistantly
w/o Co2 at about 80% of a LB per 1000y w/ Co2 at about 110-120% of a LB per 1000y out doors well how big are the plants (chuckle) BUT it tends to hold CLOSE to the 21.3 grams per Sq Ft vs. the 31.95 to 46.2 grams per Sq Ft in full sun of any of the broad leaf phynotypes. and color = yup its GREY NOT GREEN! because of the crystals - which are ALL OVER THE PLANT from bottom of the stem to the tippy tops! You know its wreck if: Every time you look at it you wonder if its got MITES - and when you look closer you see its JUST the grey of the KRYSTAL looking like mite webs! your arm hairs are sticky and you don't remember touching anything in the room ... it SMELLS of MINT - or menthol ...the TINY buds at the base of the stem are CRYSTALLY TOO -- just like the tops - and when they are dry they are total KRYSTAL = snow white ... and you find your self going "wow this is better looking then the tops! If your checking the SIZE of your ONE hit - not how MANY hits you can take before total couch lock ...Then - that's the wreck!
MrHowardMarks
Well-Known Member
Holy crap that's a long post that I'm not reading...
So I was right... Your shed didn't burn down... And that was you in my journal under a different name all geeked up on Afgooey...
It's cool man, there are a lot bigger better things for the pigs to worry about other than your shed.
So I was right... Your shed didn't burn down... And that was you in my journal under a different name all geeked up on Afgooey...
It's cool man, there are a lot bigger better things for the pigs to worry about other than your shed.
Masterofgenetics
New Member
Im not sure if this will work, but i will give it a whirl.. this is from my thread in breedbay
http://www.breedbay.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=383821#post383821
Alright I'm right minded now...lol
I got my sprite and orange stoli vodka, and a bowl of CJxSD..
Let me start with I am using a homemade hand watering drip system..lol that doesn't make sense
I was going to buy a water pump but decided I really don't need it. I would have better control by doing it myself at least for now.. If it becomes a problem ilate in flower I am going to buy a 1200 gph pump or two 600"s most likely two 6's so if one goes out I will have a back-up.. Two 1/4 inch drippers for each 3 gallon bag.. I have my table built out of some kind of steel roofing.. I got the idea from texas kid... thanks TK...
I got about 75+ clones from a close friend I grew up with... Thanks bro...
I had only about 40 make it.. I was dealing with bad temps.. They didn't want to root at 60...lol
Well I waited almost 2.5 weeks before the first roots.. I usually get them around day 7..
I am using the lucas blend which i forgot the formula But I think it's 16ml PB to 8ml TB per gallon. Well i decided to use my own mixute I use 20 ml of bionaticare Problend bloom, 10 ml of tiger bloom by fox farm, 10ml of magikal, and 10 ml of protech per 5 gallons... so far so good I might raise them alil??
I am using coco coir that I made over a year ago a plant in east texas called Fafard.. haha my bro found it at a nursey and picked it up for me, not knowing that I had made.. funny but usless info..sorry
My table is 3.5 by 6.5 ft, I am using a 400 MH and a 600 hps in flower I think I might add another 400 MH.. I am really suprised at how close the MH can be without burning.. I have one plant only a couple inches away..
I vegged for maybe 2 to 3 weeks IDK? the day of the light change was on 1-25-09
The strains are Amnesia haze pheno one and two, toe jam, sour mist, sour thia, train wreck, green crack, catpiss, choc trip, bubba, lol and I know Im still forgetting a few..
Well who cares about the BS heres some pictures
This is a train wreck reveg
And just a shot of the room the big one in the middle is sour mist
http://www.breedbay.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=383821#post383821
Alright I'm right minded now...lol
I got my sprite and orange stoli vodka, and a bowl of CJxSD..
Let me start with I am using a homemade hand watering drip system..lol that doesn't make sense
I was going to buy a water pump but decided I really don't need it. I would have better control by doing it myself at least for now.. If it becomes a problem ilate in flower I am going to buy a 1200 gph pump or two 600"s most likely two 6's so if one goes out I will have a back-up.. Two 1/4 inch drippers for each 3 gallon bag.. I have my table built out of some kind of steel roofing.. I got the idea from texas kid... thanks TK...
I got about 75+ clones from a close friend I grew up with... Thanks bro...
I had only about 40 make it.. I was dealing with bad temps.. They didn't want to root at 60...lol
Well I waited almost 2.5 weeks before the first roots.. I usually get them around day 7..
I am using the lucas blend which i forgot the formula But I think it's 16ml PB to 8ml TB per gallon. Well i decided to use my own mixute I use 20 ml of bionaticare Problend bloom, 10 ml of tiger bloom by fox farm, 10ml of magikal, and 10 ml of protech per 5 gallons... so far so good I might raise them alil??
I am using coco coir that I made over a year ago a plant in east texas called Fafard.. haha my bro found it at a nursey and picked it up for me, not knowing that I had made.. funny but usless info..sorry
My table is 3.5 by 6.5 ft, I am using a 400 MH and a 600 hps in flower I think I might add another 400 MH.. I am really suprised at how close the MH can be without burning.. I have one plant only a couple inches away..
I vegged for maybe 2 to 3 weeks IDK? the day of the light change was on 1-25-09
The strains are Amnesia haze pheno one and two, toe jam, sour mist, sour thia, train wreck, green crack, catpiss, choc trip, bubba, lol and I know Im still forgetting a few..
Well who cares about the BS heres some pictures
This is a train wreck reveg
And just a shot of the room the big one in the middle is sour mist
lmao i almost bit the screen!!!! great shit man. my wife asked why i was lookin at food instead of girls.Just Because I can!!
My new toy! A meat slicer....
lmao. cant a person get any privacy.Masterofgenetics
New Member
Masterofgenetics
New Member
well see here where the 99 rule doesnt apply this is the bs I was talking about....Eleven pounds of processed marijuana, 64 marijuana plants, an irrigation system and grow lights were seized earlier this month in connection with the arrest of a 39-year-old South Lake Tahoe man charged with possession of a controlled substance.
Scott David Haas, 39, was jailed on $10,000 bail in Douglas County Jail. He is charged with possession of a controlled substance and possession of a controlled substance for sale.
On Nov. 7, investigators from the Douglas County Sheriff’s Office Narcotics Street Enforcement Team executed a search warrant at 749 Tina Ct, Unit-A, in Stateline.
The investigators were led to the home by a tip from a neighbor who smelled marijuana coming from the residence. Haas was not home when the search warrant was executed.
Investigators found an indoor marijuana grow operation in the basement including 64 marijuana plants, an irrigation system, high intensity grow lights and other paraphernalia associated with cultivating marijuana. Investigators also located a small amount of psilocybin mushrooms inside the home.
Haas, who lived at the residence, turned himself in Nov. 13 at the Douglas County Sheriff’s Office Lake Tahoe Substation.
While executing the search warrant at Haas’ home, investigators located information that led them to believe that Haas had an additional marijuana grow operation at a home in South Lake Tahoe. That information was relayed to the South Lake Tahoe /El Dorado County Narcotics Enforcement Team (SLEDNET).
Tahoe investigators conducted a separate investigation, and obtained a search warrant for the home, located at 803-B San Jose Ave., South Lake Tahoe, where they allegedly uncovered evidence that Haas had recently dismantled another marijuana grow operation inside.
Evidence at the San Jose Avenue residence lead investigators to a third residence in South Lake Tahoe, where 11 pounds of processed marijuana allegedly belonging to Haas were seized.
Investigators have submitted their reports to the El Dorado County District Attorney’s Office for prosecution.
Scott David Haas, 39, was jailed on $10,000 bail in Douglas County Jail. He is charged with possession of a controlled substance and possession of a controlled substance for sale.
On Nov. 7, investigators from the Douglas County Sheriff’s Office Narcotics Street Enforcement Team executed a search warrant at 749 Tina Ct, Unit-A, in Stateline.
The investigators were led to the home by a tip from a neighbor who smelled marijuana coming from the residence. Haas was not home when the search warrant was executed.
Investigators found an indoor marijuana grow operation in the basement including 64 marijuana plants, an irrigation system, high intensity grow lights and other paraphernalia associated with cultivating marijuana. Investigators also located a small amount of psilocybin mushrooms inside the home.
Haas, who lived at the residence, turned himself in Nov. 13 at the Douglas County Sheriff’s Office Lake Tahoe Substation.
While executing the search warrant at Haas’ home, investigators located information that led them to believe that Haas had an additional marijuana grow operation at a home in South Lake Tahoe. That information was relayed to the South Lake Tahoe /El Dorado County Narcotics Enforcement Team (SLEDNET).
Tahoe investigators conducted a separate investigation, and obtained a search warrant for the home, located at 803-B San Jose Ave., South Lake Tahoe, where they allegedly uncovered evidence that Haas had recently dismantled another marijuana grow operation inside.
Evidence at the San Jose Avenue residence lead investigators to a third residence in South Lake Tahoe, where 11 pounds of processed marijuana allegedly belonging to Haas were seized.
Investigators have submitted their reports to the El Dorado County District Attorney’s Office for prosecution.
Masterofgenetics
New Member
SmokeMedprop215
Well-Known Member
lmao i almost bit the screen!!!! great shit man. my wife asked why i was lookin at food instead of girls.
I wont lie I passed by that sandwich and had to back up thing looks freakin good...mmmmm could be that I'm baked but I'll have 2 to go...
Masterofgenetics
New Member
Hey whats up thanks prop..
here is a good song to listen to while reading
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6UetUJ_o2U
So today I change my water is my res.. just plain water at 6.0...
I've been watering twice every day about a cup per plant each time but I am using coco so it washes right out..
I will water the plants as soon as the leaves get droopie.. I like for them to be independent for them selves...
But I like to flush heavily once every two weeks to wash out the built up salt.."which coco builds up fast"
I move them around a little bit.. I moved the big ones that were facing the light away from the light.. And put the smaller ones right under the lights..
I am very impressed with their strength.. dont for get these are only 3 weeks old.. well since I got roots... I have smaller strains but the sativa domn strains are going crazy!!
Enough useless BS here's what yall want
you can see some some nute burn..Idk how? doesn't make sense
And this is my F up?? this happened when I turned the heater on.... within less then 12 hours... not worried... it's just pot
here is a good song to listen to while reading
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6UetUJ_o2U
So today I change my water is my res.. just plain water at 6.0...
I've been watering twice every day about a cup per plant each time but I am using coco so it washes right out..
I will water the plants as soon as the leaves get droopie.. I like for them to be independent for them selves...
But I like to flush heavily once every two weeks to wash out the built up salt.."which coco builds up fast"
I move them around a little bit.. I moved the big ones that were facing the light away from the light.. And put the smaller ones right under the lights..
I am very impressed with their strength.. dont for get these are only 3 weeks old.. well since I got roots... I have smaller strains but the sativa domn strains are going crazy!!
Enough useless BS here's what yall want
you can see some some nute burn..Idk how? doesn't make sense
And this is my F up?? this happened when I turned the heater on.... within less then 12 hours... not worried... it's just pot
Masterofgenetics
New Member
A BIG THANKS to Nandro and Texas Kid for helping me compile all this wonderful information and pics to help everyone understand Coco and it's benefits just a little bit better.
RB
Background on Coco
The recent shift to Coco as a medium for growers has caused many to turn and take a look. Since Coco can be used in virtually any style of growing (ie. Container Growing, Ebb and Flow, DWC and even Aeroponics) and wide spread reports of increased growth rates as a result of it's use, it certainly merits a closer look.
Coco and it's various grades are manufactured from the shells and husks of the Coconut. While Coco is made in several parts of the world, Sri Lanka is by far and away the world leader in Coco production. For obvious reasons, it is cheaper to produce the Coco in Sri Lanka as labor is cheap and Coconuts are quite abundant as Coconut export is one of Sri Lanka's top export products.
Coco products have many uses other than it's Horticultural applications. As an example, Coco husks (the larger pieces) are used to mix in with unstable earth to help anchor it and allow water to easily pass through thereby controlling erosion in mountainous areas of the world. Coco is also used to filter drinking water in some parts of the world that can't afford the high cost of water treatment plants.
Coco in Gardening
In indoor gardening, Coco and it's various grades offer indoor growers (Newbies and Seasoned Growers alike) a super forgiving medium that practically insures that over-watering and "dampening off" never occur. In Hydro, Coco allows the gardener to cycle/flood less frequently as the Coco itself, unlike Hydroton, will retain the perfect amount of moisture to keep the plants happy between floods. Depending on the grade of Coco used, if you're flooding four or five times per light cycle, you can easily cut down to two to three floods during "lights on" and NONE during the dark period. Less floodings = less nutrients used = big savings on nutrients!
Being a totally inert (no food value) substrate, supplemental feedings through a good, well rounded nutrient regime are essential. However, this is the beauty of Coco as since it is inert, you can more accurately control EXACTLY how much food your plants are receiving. Also, by just looking at your plants, you'll be able to see if they are wanting more food or less and you can very precisely contol the feedings by monitoring the PPM or EC of your feedings. Coco allows the grower to have a "gas pedal" and a "brake" for the plant growth. Through trial and experimentation, you will quickly find that precise level that your plants perform best at and learn to keep it there for pronounced growth!
Something should also be said about the "symbiotic" relationship that Coco enjoys with plants. When doing a side by side comparion with plants grown in Coco versus the same plants grown in Soil (or Coco vs Hydroton in Hydro), it becomes apparently very quickly to the grower that the rate of growth is EXPLOSIVE in Coco! It's not at all unusual to see the same cuttings in Coco be twice the size of cuttings in soil. The plants have an overall healthier, happier look to them and the hybrid vigour of a given strain is accentuated when in Coco. The tastes and aromas of buds grown in Coco are extremely difficult to tell from herb grown in a totally organic soil and are ALWAYS more flavorful and aromatic in Hydro when compared to Hydroton grown bud. The plants just seem to give their best in Coco and with less hassle than either soil or Hydrton.
When it comes to the problems of seriously vasilating pH in Hydro when Hydroton is used, you can kiss those problems goodbye when you convert to Coco as your medium. Once thoroughly flushed and buffered with pH'd water, Coco will prove to be rock solid when it comes to staying in the proper pH range. This reason alone makes Coco worth converting to in Hydroponics, IMHO.
Aside from training your brain to pH at hydroponic levels, Coco growers must adapt to a "Water to Waste" approach to watering/feeding when container growing. This means to continue watering well after runoff water comes out of the bottom. This is because Coco retains just enough moisture to sustain the plant but, like Hydroponics, it requires a good long drink to keep the plants happy. This also acts as an effective "flushing" method to keep salts (nutrients) from building up in the medium. Although you need to feed much more frequently than a pre-ferted soil mix, it is still recommended that you do a periodic plain pH'd watering to assist in ridding any built up salts in the medium. For this reason, Watering to Waste requires some sort of "catch" system to capture the run off water out of your pots when container garden. An Ebb n Flow tray works well or you can fabricate your own catch try to place under your pots. If elevated, this catch tray can have a drain in one corner or at the center to allow the run off to drip into a Rubbermaid container below the catch tray.
Coco and it's various grades
There is much confusion and misunderstanding regarding Coco. You will find that virtually all Coco is referred to as "Coco Coir". When, in fact, Coir is but just one of the different GRADES of Coco available. Coco is manufactured into three major catagories, or grades. Essentially, these grades are a catagorization of the "coarseness" of the various grades of Coco. They are as follows in order from the finest to the most coarse:
Which Coco is best for me?
Deciding on which grade of Coco or which brand can be quite confusing. For many, this is a trial and error excercise until they find the best grade for their grows. However, some generalizations can surely be made.
For Container Style growing, either Coco Coir or a blend of the various grades would suite you quite well. In containers, a nice blend of longer fiber Coir with a small amount of Pyth blended in would give your roots good aeration and they Pyth would help to retain a bit more moisture so that watering every two to four days would be appropriate.
While Coco Coir with Pyth in it MUST BE pre-washed, we recommend that ALL COCO PRODUCTS BE THOROUGHLY FLUSHED with pH'd water to rid any impurities from the blend.
*It's also VERY IMPORTANT to remember that when growing in Coco, you MUST pH at Hydroponic levels in the 5.5-6.0 range. pH ranges higher than this will result in plant deficiencies and nutrient lockout!
For Hydroponic and Aeroponic growers, Husks or Croutons are the way to go for sure. Nandro says that Husks/Croutons are "God's gift to our gardens!". Again, being absent of the finer particulates (after a good pre-rinsing, of course), they are the PERFECT medium for recirculating systems. As Husks are available in a couple of different sizes, you can experiment to see which size works best for you. In either case, both sizes retain enough moisture that you can reduce your amount of flood cycles and save on nutrients! Roots just explode in growth due to the amount of oxygen available in a Crouton medium and they grow easily through the net pot. The growth rate will astound the most seasoned of growers!
In the end, it's a matter of grow style. If you container grow, a finer mix will do you fine just as long as it's still light, airy and pourous. In Hydro, the larger chunks of the Husks/Croutons will get the job done and give you better tasting, better smelling harvests than Hydroton ever has for you. Try it once and you'll never go back.
Sounds great, Rell, but how and where do I get all these grades?
Well, I'm glad you asked since I haven't had a good answer for you until just this week. As it turns out, Nandro, Texas Kid and I found a producer of these various grades of Coco right here in the North Texas area. A company called RioCoco imports the various grades from Sri Lanka and then pre-washes and packages primarily for the commercial agricultural and civil industries around the world. Up until now, this product has not been available in hydroponic supplies but, THANK GOD, we've been able to put RioCoco in touch with Water Baby's Indoor Garden Supply and they now will be the exclusive hydroponic supplier for their fine products! Take a look at all they have to offer.
RB
Background on Coco
The recent shift to Coco as a medium for growers has caused many to turn and take a look. Since Coco can be used in virtually any style of growing (ie. Container Growing, Ebb and Flow, DWC and even Aeroponics) and wide spread reports of increased growth rates as a result of it's use, it certainly merits a closer look.
Coco and it's various grades are manufactured from the shells and husks of the Coconut. While Coco is made in several parts of the world, Sri Lanka is by far and away the world leader in Coco production. For obvious reasons, it is cheaper to produce the Coco in Sri Lanka as labor is cheap and Coconuts are quite abundant as Coconut export is one of Sri Lanka's top export products.
Coco products have many uses other than it's Horticultural applications. As an example, Coco husks (the larger pieces) are used to mix in with unstable earth to help anchor it and allow water to easily pass through thereby controlling erosion in mountainous areas of the world. Coco is also used to filter drinking water in some parts of the world that can't afford the high cost of water treatment plants.
Coco in Gardening
In indoor gardening, Coco and it's various grades offer indoor growers (Newbies and Seasoned Growers alike) a super forgiving medium that practically insures that over-watering and "dampening off" never occur. In Hydro, Coco allows the gardener to cycle/flood less frequently as the Coco itself, unlike Hydroton, will retain the perfect amount of moisture to keep the plants happy between floods. Depending on the grade of Coco used, if you're flooding four or five times per light cycle, you can easily cut down to two to three floods during "lights on" and NONE during the dark period. Less floodings = less nutrients used = big savings on nutrients!
Being a totally inert (no food value) substrate, supplemental feedings through a good, well rounded nutrient regime are essential. However, this is the beauty of Coco as since it is inert, you can more accurately control EXACTLY how much food your plants are receiving. Also, by just looking at your plants, you'll be able to see if they are wanting more food or less and you can very precisely contol the feedings by monitoring the PPM or EC of your feedings. Coco allows the grower to have a "gas pedal" and a "brake" for the plant growth. Through trial and experimentation, you will quickly find that precise level that your plants perform best at and learn to keep it there for pronounced growth!
Something should also be said about the "symbiotic" relationship that Coco enjoys with plants. When doing a side by side comparion with plants grown in Coco versus the same plants grown in Soil (or Coco vs Hydroton in Hydro), it becomes apparently very quickly to the grower that the rate of growth is EXPLOSIVE in Coco! It's not at all unusual to see the same cuttings in Coco be twice the size of cuttings in soil. The plants have an overall healthier, happier look to them and the hybrid vigour of a given strain is accentuated when in Coco. The tastes and aromas of buds grown in Coco are extremely difficult to tell from herb grown in a totally organic soil and are ALWAYS more flavorful and aromatic in Hydro when compared to Hydroton grown bud. The plants just seem to give their best in Coco and with less hassle than either soil or Hydrton.
When it comes to the problems of seriously vasilating pH in Hydro when Hydroton is used, you can kiss those problems goodbye when you convert to Coco as your medium. Once thoroughly flushed and buffered with pH'd water, Coco will prove to be rock solid when it comes to staying in the proper pH range. This reason alone makes Coco worth converting to in Hydroponics, IMHO.
Aside from training your brain to pH at hydroponic levels, Coco growers must adapt to a "Water to Waste" approach to watering/feeding when container growing. This means to continue watering well after runoff water comes out of the bottom. This is because Coco retains just enough moisture to sustain the plant but, like Hydroponics, it requires a good long drink to keep the plants happy. This also acts as an effective "flushing" method to keep salts (nutrients) from building up in the medium. Although you need to feed much more frequently than a pre-ferted soil mix, it is still recommended that you do a periodic plain pH'd watering to assist in ridding any built up salts in the medium. For this reason, Watering to Waste requires some sort of "catch" system to capture the run off water out of your pots when container garden. An Ebb n Flow tray works well or you can fabricate your own catch try to place under your pots. If elevated, this catch tray can have a drain in one corner or at the center to allow the run off to drip into a Rubbermaid container below the catch tray.
Coco and it's various grades
There is much confusion and misunderstanding regarding Coco. You will find that virtually all Coco is referred to as "Coco Coir". When, in fact, Coir is but just one of the different GRADES of Coco available. Coco is manufactured into three major catagories, or grades. Essentially, these grades are a catagorization of the "coarseness" of the various grades of Coco. They are as follows in order from the finest to the most coarse:
- PYTH - This is the finest grade of Coco. Pyth is harvested from the softer tissue just inside the shell or husk that is pulverized into a fine particulate. It resembles light brown, dried coffee gounds. The finer particles provide a solid substrate for the plant's root system but lack in the rapid drainage of it's more coarse forms. Using just Pyth solely as your medium is NOT recommend because of it's tendency to retain so much moisture but can be blended with other grades to add some body to the blend. Some manufacturers like Earth Juice and to some degree Botanicare use a fair amount of Pyth in what they call Coco Coir. Again, this grade is not Coir but we'll get to the next!
- COIR/FIBER - Coir is a longer fiber harvest from the outer layers of the shell or husk and is often chopped into shorter fragments. The fabled "Profit Disks" were made from this portion of the Coconut. While Coir still holds a good amount of moisture after watering or flooding, it's drainage is significantly better than Pyth. Coir can also be found in very long strands often referred to as "Coco Fiber" and is commonly found in nurseries and craft stores. The longest strands make a good liner for the bottom of pots which you can fill on top of with finer cut Coir or Croutons for an excellent medium.
- HUSKS (aka "Croutons") - The coarsest grade of Coco are the Husks which have also been referred to as "Croutons". Several growers here at the Bay can tell you of their success with Croutons. Made by fragmenting the shells or husks of the Coconut, Croutons are made up of chunks of shell and represent the fastest draining form of Coco available. Croutons are HIGHLY recommended for use in Ebb and Flow as well as DWC systems because they are absent of the finer particles that would tend to clog spray nozzles or pump motors. Croutons drain as well as Hydroton but do retain a perfect amount of moisture between floodings as compared to Hydroton. General Hydroponics recently discontinued their Coco Croutons and they have not been available. Until now, that is. More on that in a moment.
Which Coco is best for me?
Deciding on which grade of Coco or which brand can be quite confusing. For many, this is a trial and error excercise until they find the best grade for their grows. However, some generalizations can surely be made.
For Container Style growing, either Coco Coir or a blend of the various grades would suite you quite well. In containers, a nice blend of longer fiber Coir with a small amount of Pyth blended in would give your roots good aeration and they Pyth would help to retain a bit more moisture so that watering every two to four days would be appropriate.
While Coco Coir with Pyth in it MUST BE pre-washed, we recommend that ALL COCO PRODUCTS BE THOROUGHLY FLUSHED with pH'd water to rid any impurities from the blend.
*It's also VERY IMPORTANT to remember that when growing in Coco, you MUST pH at Hydroponic levels in the 5.5-6.0 range. pH ranges higher than this will result in plant deficiencies and nutrient lockout!
For Hydroponic and Aeroponic growers, Husks or Croutons are the way to go for sure. Nandro says that Husks/Croutons are "God's gift to our gardens!". Again, being absent of the finer particulates (after a good pre-rinsing, of course), they are the PERFECT medium for recirculating systems. As Husks are available in a couple of different sizes, you can experiment to see which size works best for you. In either case, both sizes retain enough moisture that you can reduce your amount of flood cycles and save on nutrients! Roots just explode in growth due to the amount of oxygen available in a Crouton medium and they grow easily through the net pot. The growth rate will astound the most seasoned of growers!
In the end, it's a matter of grow style. If you container grow, a finer mix will do you fine just as long as it's still light, airy and pourous. In Hydro, the larger chunks of the Husks/Croutons will get the job done and give you better tasting, better smelling harvests than Hydroton ever has for you. Try it once and you'll never go back.
Sounds great, Rell, but how and where do I get all these grades?
Well, I'm glad you asked since I haven't had a good answer for you until just this week. As it turns out, Nandro, Texas Kid and I found a producer of these various grades of Coco right here in the North Texas area. A company called RioCoco imports the various grades from Sri Lanka and then pre-washes and packages primarily for the commercial agricultural and civil industries around the world. Up until now, this product has not been available in hydroponic supplies but, THANK GOD, we've been able to put RioCoco in touch with Water Baby's Indoor Garden Supply and they now will be the exclusive hydroponic supplier for their fine products! Take a look at all they have to offer.
RioCoco Green Starters
Green Starters are a compressed block of a perfect blend of Coir, Fibers and Husks called their S1 grade and when broken up will contain a small amount of Pyth. The block measures 7"x10"x2.5" and makes for a great shipping size. The wrapper can be opened up and used like a grow bag or use it to fill your containers. Just add your pH'd water to expand and break up the block. It recommends adding 500 mils to start but we found that about 1.5 liters was just about right. Nandro says, "Green Starter Coco Blocks are a great way for container growers wanting to experience the Coco craze".
Here's a shot of a fresh moistened block.
And a shot after it has drained and been broken up a bit. We popped a few holes in the bottom of it to let the water drain through properly.
The S1 Custom Blend Coco contained in the block is their premium mix of Coco and is suitable for Container Style growing but can be used in hydro if you utilize a mesh bag for your reservoir pump or Coco liners in your net pots. This S1 Custom Blend is an absolutely gorgeous mix as you can see above and could still be used in recirculating systems if pre-flushed well to rid the mix of small particulates.
RioCoco Chip Blocks - S2, S3 and Croutons
RioCoco has also packaged into pressed blocks their finest grades of Husks/Croutons. Again, these are the large chunks of husk or shell that are best suited for recirculating Hydroponic Systems. The Chip Blocks are available in three grades: S2 which are medium sized chips, S3 which are slightly larger and Croutons which are the largest size. Premium Coco Husks like these are highly recommended fro growers using hydroponic systems like DWC, Drip, Ebb n Flow, Aeroponics and any other recirculating systems. The S2 and S3 Husks also make an attractive bedding cover (like Mulch) for your outdoor flower beds!
S2 Chip Block
S3 Chip Block
Sitting side by side you can see the one block has bigger chips than the other.
These Chip Blocks weigh between 9-10 pounds and should produce between 50-70 liters of expanded product. This is comparable to the pressed blocks of Coco offered by Botanicare and Earth Juice but the quality of the finished product is FAR superior.
There wasn't a block to show you of the Croutons but here is a sample bag we received from RioCoco and you can see how much bigger they are. These Croutons are available as RioCoco's Green 'n Grow Premium Coco in 1 cu. ft. bags. More in a moment.
Here again is the pic of the various grades and you can see the comparison of size of the S2, S3 and the Green 'n Grow Premium Coir Croutons better side by side.
E-Coir Coco Fiber
RioCoco also offers the longest strands of Coco known as Fiber in plastic bags. E-Coir can be used to grow in exclusively but, in it's longest form, it makes a great liner for your pots and the S1 Custom Blend, Husks or Croutons can be added on top for a superior draining mix. The Fibers can also be cut into short pieces and mixed in with your choice of Husks and/or Croutons to make the perfect custom blend for you. E-Coir is an excellent and versatile Coco product.
Masterofgenetics
New Member
32 I counted last night.. I put some two to three to a bag but I was going to kill the weaker ones.. But I decided to keep them all.. I have a lot of faith in coco.. I've heard of people flowering in shot glasses I think I am going to do it just for the pictures...