Best LED for overall yield
- Thread starter pokerpro451
- Start date
pokerpro451
Member
I would say your Umols are too high for a seedling. Buy a par meter if you can afford it.
pokerpro451
Member
How long have you had that? Have you calculated grams per sq ft or per watt??? very interested in what you have to say very nice set up. I really like timber grow lights but as far as efficiency they aren't as nice as I thought. A Gavita double ended HPS is 1.7 so something at 2.7 would roughly be 30% more efficient.
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
Give me a few more days lol....
Humple
Well-Known Member
You're such a tease, Stephen. Really looking forward to what you guys have come up with!
hybridway2
Amare Shill
As it should be. Not to cool to see someone make improvements to a model before the originator.
Gotta be quick on your toes.
Oh, BTW, the 96 Elite are doing a wonderful job. Plants r digging spectrum fir sure.
One question tho. Are the 320w drivers the normal size with these models? Only asking because ur site states they're 370 & the name is 360 Elite so i figured theyd be 360ish?
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Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
They use a 320 driver and all new units shipping to customers use 370 watts
They also have a built in wireless dimmer/controller.
They also have a built in wireless dimmer/controller.
whytewidow
Well-Known Member
My next light build is gonna be with 360 elites. Gonna do 4 of them. And run them super super soft. With some smaller square pucks with 49 Samsung lm301b diodes on a 50mm × 50mm pcb. And six round pcbs with 12 Osram OSLON Square hyper-red diodes. I found them for a great price. But shipping from Germany to the states is raising the price of them. But I'm ordering them anyway. Bc no one has them.
Moflow
Well-Known Member
InTheValley
Well-Known Member
Ill tell ya what, I run Luminus cobs, and they are great, and they are also powerfull, to the point even 600 PAR is pushing the leafs hard. They dont like it. 450-500 PAR seems to be the sweet spot with them. Seen nice nugs with just 200 par, and the further away, the more tric production. Ive noticed the lowers are like sugar coated. final 2 weeks, reducing to 200 watts (4000k) in a 3x3, from 300 mixed 4000k-3500k
hybridway2
Amare Shill
Gavitas DE are actually pretty efficient. This whole jumping leaps n bounds past 2 umol/j in a premade fixture of any sort just happened this past yr. Before that good LEDs were competing with DE at 1.7-2 umol/j.
The growers in my area usually pull 2#'s off the SpyderX Plus. Not sure how you grow but that's pretty damn good considering 1# per 600w HPS is the norm for me & many.
I just got it actually.
Thinking of using it with 6 bars above=660w , (perfect for 4x4) then using the other 2 bars as an upper side-light on each side.
Wouldn't that be close to 50% increase in efficiency? I'm dabbed up so maybe I'm wrong. Lol!
Stop by the thread if have a chance.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/amare-solarbar-8.983189/#post-14692683
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BCBLondesLEDGrowLights
Well-Known Member
unfortunately I don't buy into the hype of "adding reds" or any of the gimmicks involved with "enhanced spectrum". It adds a fair amount of cost, but we are not interested in it right now. My goal is to provide a kick ass lamp for the most affordable price, which grows fat ass buds with tons of resin. No one is touching us on price per umol.
BCBLondesLEDGrowLights
Well-Known Member
gavita de at 1000 watt setting is 1.52 umol per joule. Brand new bulb puts off about 1850 umol with out a reflector, about a 13% loss with the reflector, ends up being around 1614 umol with reflector. its not all that impressive when you put it in a sphere.
hybridway2
Amare Shill
I'm starting to think that's been the problem for me trying to grow under white led. Leaves get upset & begin yellowing, some get whitish. But I'm always well over 600ppfd. After there's already an issue I then dim the light or raise it as high as possible. By then it's to late & I have a tough time reversing the effects.
You guys cant all be growing 600 ppfd just to avoid this? I'm sure others have the nute requirements dialed in too.
hybridway2
Amare Shill
Not for nuthin bud, But That's What They All Said.
Saying that to someone who knows better like me is like someone telling you different K-Temps serve no purpose. Or maybe you think that with your 35k?
They were all afraid to increase production cost & used the "Gimical" excuse as well.
Results don't lie & customers want it.
Science backs it, What else is there?
Dont get me wrong, I like BLONDES & have always suggested to take a look if someone was interested in a cob light.
whytewidow
Well-Known Member
Me too man. They are decently priced. Minus shipping to the states. You are talking about the tech site right. I've not seen some of the pcbs they offer. Havent seen any 21 diode or 49 diode. And they have 98 diode strips too.
whytewidow
Well-Known Member
Maybe I misunderstand but are you saying theres no difference in growth veg n flower with different cct? Or are you meaning that as an example
whytewidow
Well-Known Member
And of you added reds to it. It will grow fatter buds, more trichs. And shave days off flowering. I have run multiple strains clones of each. With and without added reds. During flowering and for emmerson effect. And it 100% is beneficial.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Hmm! For me that sounds like your VPD to too high because of a too low humidity. As you say, 600μMol/s/m² is already a lot(600w HPS level) and air tends to dry out faster because we grow also with higher ambient temps. I'm forced to hang the sensor directly between the tops to get true readings. The thermometer on the wall shows usually 5-10% higher RH in my cab.
Increase RH while lights on by 5-10% and see what happens.
Even in the last few weeks you can hold 60% over the day without getting bud rot. I've often seen yellowing/bleaching on the upper leaves but most of the time it's no bleaching. It's because of a too high vapor pressure inside the leaves. Plants transpire more and take up more nutes and water(especially calcium), you get an imbalance and you are forced to either lower the nutrient strength according to your VPD(20% to high VPD = 20% less nutes) or you increase relative humidity to get the VPD back in a healthy range.
Below is the VPD chart I'm using currently...
